Reviewed: 19 April 2012

Sometimes you just get lucky. And so it was when I was asked to help run this tasting down at Lamont’s in Cottesloe. This is a tasting that really lived up to its title. There were no bad wines in the tasting, though a couple did not make it to this review.

What was apparent, was the diversity of styles on offer. From the feminine wines like the Felton Road “Block 5” and Nautilus, to the very muscular and powerful styles typified by the Yerring Station.

Of the 16 people in the room, 8 voted for the Nautilus as their wine of the night. At $40 per bottle, this was also one of the cheapest wines in the tasting. Great praise indeed.

Reviewed

Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – 2006 (18.6). I think I am in love with this wine. There is everything here. Powerful, though restrained fruit, superb texture, great winemaking and noticeable, though sympathetic oak. A superb wine that goes on and on. Not yet peaked, but so seductive now. Brilliant!

Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – 2010 (18.5). Muscular and structured, there is a surprising degree of restraint to what is a very powerful wine. Almost a touch reductive to start, this has it all. The saying, Iron fist in a velvet glove comes to mind. The most burgundian to date, with superb structure and length. A concentrated wine for the patient.

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Premium – 2009 (18.5). Substantial wine. Taut, muscular and structured, this requires a leap of faith or a lot of air. Opens to show great depth and the proverbial peacock’s tail finish. Subtlety at its finest.

Martinborough Vineyard – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18.5). Superb nose that has spice, leather and earthy notes combined with pristine fruit. The palate is a revelation; subtle, fine, refined, long, elegant, balanced and persistent. Why Martinborough should make more pinot.

Phi – Pinot Noir – Single Vineyard – 2010 (18.5). A more generous and approachable nose. The palate is silky, seamless, round and balanced. The balance really is the key here! The length is outstanding and, again, the flavours really build. Has an ethereal quality that defies labelling.

Quartz Reef – Pinot Noir – Bendigo Estate Vineyard – 2008 (18.5). Oh so elegant and seductive, this has it all. Superb fruit and excellent winemaking combine to make this a real star. The fruit is deceptive as the finish builds astringency, as well as dark cherry fruit characters. Mouth-watering finish.

Felton Rd – Pinot Noir – Block 5 – 2010 (18.4). Complete nose. Very fine and subtle, this is hard to review late in the tasting! Elegant and silky, with ripe fruit and excellent oak handling. This is a superb wine that is very long and very fine.

Dalrypmple – Pinot Noir – Block T36 – 2009 (18.3). Combination of meaty, savoury notes and brambly fruit. Super-sweet fruit on the palate with a finish that is near seamless. Really fans out and builds both complexity and depth on the finish. Remarkable tannins to close.

Felton Rd – Pinot Noir – Calvert – 2009 (18.2). More muscular than the Phi with a more savoury take on the fruit. The palate is pristine and precise, with excellent line and length. Subtle complexity on a finish that is defined by remarkably silky and fine tannins. Again, the power builds on the finish.

Quartz Reef – Pinot Noir – Bendigo Estate Vineyard – 2007 (18.1). Sweet fruit and oak to the fore here showing a remarkably different nose to the 2008. Silky and seductive, but with a spine of ripe fruit. The finish is a touch more astringent, but should evolve.

Mt Difficulty – Pinot Noir – Pipe Clay Terrace – 2009 (18+). Very shy and reserved. All the ingredients are in place, but this needs time to come together. The fruit is very fine, but the muscular structure shuts down the palate. No rough edges, just latent power.

Mt Difficulty – Pinot Noir – Long Gully – 2009 (18+). A more muscular style from this producer. Everything is in place, but it needs to integrate. Very long!

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18). Sweet fruit with oak highlights. Superb wine that combines layers of flavour with a silky texture. Impressive length and silky tannins. The acid carries the finish beautifully. Different, but a great drink.

Clos Henri – Pinot Noir – 2008 (18). Brick-red colour. Lifted, fragrant, red berry fruit dominates the nose. The palate has cherry and spice to the fore, with hints of truffle and an earthy finish. Lovely fruit weight and texture on a finish that is very long and very fine. A bigger, more forward style that offers great drinking.

Quartz Reef – Bendigo Estate Vineyard – 2005 (18). Subdued nose. Very powerful fruit on the palate but I initially questioned the absolute balance. Then again, the length of the finish is outstanding, with tar, sour cherry and earthy flavours.

Yering Station – Pinot Noir – Reserve – 2010 (18+). Muscular, though reserved on the nose. The palate has a core of ripe, sweet fruit, but the very fine tannins and tight-knit oak serve to dampen the expression. Long and textured, this is more Gevrey than Vosne. Give it a few years to shine.

Craggy Range – Pinot Noir – Te Muna Road – 2010 (17.8+). A superb wine. Fragrant cherry and gentle spice with hints of truffle and earthy notes. Very delicate and subtle, this is a very feminine and elegant wine that will only get better in the short term.

Nautilus – Pinot Noir – Marlborough – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Fragrant, gentle and elegant, this is very approachable and totally delicious. The wine is deceptive though, as there is excellent structure and the fruit builds power. A good each-way bet and the people’s choice for best wine of the night. Good value at around $40.