Wine Reviews By Barry Weinman
Brendan Jansen MW has just returned form a sojourn in South Australia, and the first of his reports has just been published (see below).
Barry Weinman is now writing a weekly column for the Western Suburbs Weekly Community Newspaper. Full reports will be published here in the week following the print edition.
Don’t forget to sign up for the Fine Wine Club Newsletter. Delivered once every 4 – 6 weeks, the newsletter lists all the Wines of the Week for the previous month, as well as providing links to all new articles. Best of all, it is free.
Wines of the Week
Piper Heidsieck – Cuvée Brut – NV (18/20pts – $62). Creamy and textured, with gentle floral peach, apple and nectarine fruit notes. I was impressed by the length of flavours and the finesse of the finish. With a dosage 9.5gm/l, this feels quite dry. The use of 18% reserve wine in this blend has had a noticeable impact on complexity. Great aperitif and brilliant value. (21 Dec)
Piper Heidsieck – Vintage – 2008 ($90). From an excellent vintage, the last stocks of this wine are in the shops now. Opens with gentle toasted nut notes, but there are still hints of pretty, fresh fruit. Excellent intensity, mouthfeel and texture, with fine acidity adding balance and drive. Not as concentrated as the best of this vintage, but great value drinking. (21 Dec).
Charles Heidsieck – Brut Reserve – NV (18.6/20pts – $95). Delicate fruit, with subtle toast/autolysis characters that hints at bread dough and toast. The palate is fine and elegant, yet with a seemingly endless cascade of flavours and textures. The tremendous depth and complexity results from the inclusion of 40% reserve wines (average age 10 years). One of my favourite non vintage Champagnes. (21 Dec).
Credaro – Chardonnay – 1000 Crowns – 2018 (18.6/20pts – $65). Whilst initially taut and restrained, this opens up to show stone fruit, pineapple and citrus notes. The finish is complex and creamy, aided by supple barrel ferment and lees notes. Brilliant balance a highlight. Now – 10 years. Spent 8 months is French oak (30% new), with wild ferment and regular battonage. (28 Nov).
Credaro – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1000 Crowns – 2017 (18.5/20pts – $85). I love the fruit here: Redcurrant, with a hint of cassis. This remarkably polished wine is vibrant and approachable. Tucked away in the background though, there is serious oak, tannins and structure, the latent power palpable. A superb wine. (28 Nov).
Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – (Gold Capsule) 2018 – (18+/20pts – $39). The pretty floral fruit is a delight and sits over a core of white peach and nectarine. Continues on the palate, with medium weight fruit, and excellent complexity from the oak and lees work. Overall, a fairly restrained style that will suit food well. (25 Nov).
Deep Woods – Chardonnay – Reserve 2018 (18.7/20pts – $55). Wow, a majestic nose reminiscent of fine White Burgundy. Perfume, minerals, stone fruit, hints of curry leaf all collide on the nose. The palate is creamy and textured, with precise fruit flooding the mid-palate. Fine acidity and oak add depth on the close. Wonderful now – 5 years. Five trophies to date! (25 Nov).
Recent Articles
Piper Heidsieck Champagne
19th December 2019
My favourite Champagne over the last few years has been Charles Heidsieck’s Brut Reserve.
Yes, this is a superb Champagne, but it also has something to do with the fact that it has been served routinely on Singapore Airlines in Business Class.
Getting to the Point
25th November 2019
When rating and reviewing wines, there are a number of points systems in use globally. This includes scoring wines out of 5, 20 or 100. On top of this some reviewers use a “star” system, whilst wine shows use gold, silver and bronze medals to demonstrate different levels of quality
Credaro
28th November 2019
Credaro may not be a household name here in Perth, but the Credaro family is well known in the Margaret River region. In 1922, the family emigrated from Italy and established a farm in Carbanup, in the northern part of the region and have been there ever since.
Grenache and Grenache blends at Fox Creek in McLaren Vale
Brendan Jansen MW: 28th November 2019
A Grenache masterclass at the Master of Wine (MW) seminar took us to Fox Creek Winery in McLaren Vale. We were hosted by Marketing Manager James Carman and Winemaker Ben Tanzer.
The Lenswood subregion in the Adelaide Hills
Brendan Jansen MW: 25th November 2019
A day trip to the Adelaide Hills as part of the MW seminar culminated in a tasting and lunch at Anderson Hill winery. Producers from the newly defined subregion gathered to enlighten us about the benefits and rationale of naming their subregion, and to outline specific characteristics of the area.
Buy West – Buy Best
Barry Weinman: 25th November 2019
This article first appeared in the Western Suburbs Weekly on the 22nd November 2019
In James Halliday’s Top 100 wines, a remarkable 27% of the wines reviewed came from Western Australia. South Australia was next best with 25%. To put these figures into perspective, Western Australia accounts for only 5% of all of Australia’s wine, whereas South Australia produces 50%.
More than a coming of age – 21 years of Mark Messenger at Juniper Estate
Brendan Jansen MW: 20th November 2019
What a privilege to have been included in a small select group of wine writers and experts to celebrate Mark Messenger’s 21 years at Juniper Estate. For the tasting, Mark whetted our appetite with a young and old example each of Semillon, Chardonnay and Shiraz, before we embarked on the mammoth vertical tasting comprising 21 vintages of the Juniper Estate Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon (minus the 2006, when the fruit didn’t come up to scratch).
Riesling: No Longer The Bridesmaid?*
Barry Weinman: 5th October 2019
Riesling has been the perennial bridesmaid of the Australian wine scene. Capable of breathtaking beauty, but routinely overlooked in favour of more overt wines such as Sauvignon Blanc and complex, approachable Chardonnay.
The Institute of Masters of Wine – Annual Claret Tasting – 2015 Vintage
Brendan Jansen MW: 10th December 2019
Each year, the Institute’s Bordeaux tasting is one of the most anticipated and well-attended tasting events on the calendar. The Institute holds Claret tastings in the USA and Australia annually also, but the event in Vintner’s Hall in London is arguably the biggest. Again, the event was sold out this year.
Tasmania’s Terroir
Brendan Jansen MW: 10th October 2019
My recent visit to Tasmania was my first, and not wanting to bite off more of the Apple Isle than I could chew, I limited my winery visits to the Pipers River area and the south around Hobart and the Coal River Valley. I was immediately struck by the diversity of terroirs, even those in very close geographical proximity, and foremost among my inquiry was an attempt to make sense of the Tasmanian wine geography.
Life is a Cabernet
Barry Weinman: 23 October 2019
The life of a wine taster may sound glamorous, tasting dozens of wines each week, trying to find high quality and good value wines that we are happy to recommend. But the reality is often quite different from the image.
Stefano Lubiana Wines
Brendan Jansen MW: 21st October 2019
In well-established Old World wine regions, producers can command prices many times that of their neighbouring competitors, based upon reputation. Prices can vary hugely for wines of different producers from, for example, the very same Burgundian commune and vineyard quality designation.
Stellar Sittella
Brendan Jansen MW: 7th October 2019
There is no shortage of passion in the wine industry. But rarely is the confluence of factors of passion, technical know-how, economic backing and singularity of focus found together.
Sittella wines is, I believe, an example of such an establishment. Founded in 1993, with the winery built in 1998, what began as a hobby has become a sophisticated operation.
Far from home: Less common European varieties in the Antipodes
Brendan Jansen MW
13th September 2019
France has long been regarded, and regarded itself, as the centre of the wine universe. This is understandable, given the offerings of classic wine production areas such as Burgundy, Bordeaux, Champagne, the Loire and Rhone Valleys, and Alsace, to name but a few. (More)
Deep Woods Estate
8th August 2019
As it is with all professions, some winemakers are more capable than others. And then there is the elite few, who seem to be able to regularly achieve things that others can’t. Perhaps it is a result of hard work, technical expertise, passion, a special understanding of the vineyards, or even an innate affinity for turning grapes into wine.
Ribafreixo: Wines from Portugal
Brendan Jansen MW: 2nd August 2019
My word! It is always wonderful to discover a new and relatively little-known producer, churning our really delicious wines at bargain prices. These situations do not happen often, and usually don’t last, as the hype can take over, and prices are hiked.
New Release Cabernet: July 2019
10th July 2019
It is always an interesting exercise when two bottles of the same wine end up in a tasting, or in tastings that are close together, as it is a chance for panel members to measure the consistency of their notes and scores. The closer the scores, the happier the panel. (Read More)
Emirates Business Class Lounge Wines: June 2018
15th June 2019
In the course of my work, I spend a large amount of time traveling internationally. This includes regular travel on Singapore Airlines, Qantas, Cathay Pacific and Thai Airways, as well as less frequent trips on Malaysian, Asiana etc.
By far the best wine that is regularly served in Business Class on any of these flights is the Charles Heidsieck Champagne served by Singapore Airlines. A superb wine of great complexity and finesse. Interestingly, I believe the wine being served is a much more recent disgorgement than that which is available in Australia.
For something a little different, I recently flew six sectors on Emirates, becoming well acquainted with the wines being served both in the lounge and on the plane. (Read More)
New Release Premium Shiraz: June 2019
17th June 2019
For those who have been following my reviews for some time, you will have noted that there are some wineries that get reviewed more often than others. One of those is Shingleback and another is Angove. Both wineries are making wines at a variety of price points that are class- leading.
New Release Chardonnay – June 2019
Barry Weinman: 24th June 2019
I love Chardonnay. If I had to choose just one white wine style to drink, this would be it. Part of the appeal is the versatility that the grape affords. From zesty, racy unoaked styles made famous by Chablis, to the powerful rich and textured White Burgundies, there is a style for every occasion.
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon: May 2019
Barry Weinman: 31st June 2019
In the global wine market, Western Australian wines are positively cheap, when quality is factored in. In an effort to lift the profile internationally, a number of producers have released, or are planning to release limited edition Reserve wines at a higher price point.
Spoiled For Choice: Selecting your next wine
Brendan Jansen MW: May 28th 2019
It is no surprise that we return to familiar brands, styles and varieties in wine choice, and no surprise that we rely on the recommendation or advice of others in making our choice. The subject of fashion in wine, and the importance of a brand’s story was the subject of a previous wine musing…!