Hay Shed Hill – Block 6 – Chardonnay – 2025. There is a clear step up in intensity here, with the perfumed fruit taking on a more powerful persona, reflected on the palate where the acidity, oak and fruit all have greater presence. At this very early stage it is already drinking brilliantly — do not serve it too cold — but the whole package will really come together with five to ten years in the cellar. Brilliant value, and the wine I would most recommend if you were to try just one. Planted in 1975 with Gin Gin clone, the vineyard has a southerly aspect that helps preserve freshness. As with the other chardonnays, no lees stirring or malolactic fermentation; fermented in barrel (30% new) and aged for ten months prior to bottling. 12.5% alc | 95 points | $50
Kerrigan + Berry – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. The first release of this wine in five years, and it coincides with an excellent cabernet vintage across both Mount Barker and Margaret River. A 50/50 blend of the two regions, the wine spent eighteen months in French oak, 50% new. The fruit quality is outstanding, but it is the way it has been shaped into a serious, powerful wine that makes it stand out. There is a sense of presence and occasion. Quite closed at this early stage of development, the seamless nature of the palate means it can be enjoyed at any point over the next twenty years. I have often loved cabernet blends from these two regions — think Howard Park in years gone by — and this wine serves to reinforce the synergy. 14.5% alc | 95 points | $70
Hay Shed Hill – Block 2 – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. This has the power of the Kerrigan + Berry, but adds a degree of floral opulence to the fruit. On the finish, the tannins are notable for both their intensity and the way they remain supple. The acidity adds drive, whilst the oak adds polish and texture. Needs years, but will be excellent — and it can handle food now. A fine wine indeed. Fruit comes from the original estate plantings of Houghton clone cabernet on the Wilyabrup property; like all the Vineyard Series and Block wines, the vineyard is dry-grown. 14.5% alc | 95 points | $70
Rowe — Gin Gin Clone — Wilyabrup — Chardonnay — 2025
OMG. This is the real deal. Subtle, fine and elegant, yet incredibly powerful and intense at the same time. Ripe stone fruit comes to the fore, while the acidity drives the finish, though it never becomes intrusive. Rather, it confers flashes of pineapple across the palate. A wonderful wine and one that I would love to drink. A bargain. The wine was aged in French oak (30% new). 13.0% alc | 96pts | $60
Rowe — Single Site — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2024
This is something quite special. Whilst the pristine fruit is the main story, it is the silky palate feel that elevates this to the next level. The berry fruit is perfectly ripe and succulent, with the fine acidity acting as a key ally, adding drive and focus along the length of the palate. But it is the finish that earned this wine a gold medal. So fine, elegant and supple, with brilliant texture and a real sense of occasion. Perfumed, fragrant and near seamless.
Idée Fixe – Blanc de Blancs – Bernard 96 – 2021. Much greater intensity, rivalling great Champagne in profile. Lemon and gentle autolytic notes tend towards almond and apricot kernel, and the texture profile is superb. There is a degree of richness and power here, whilst the minerality is also turned up a notch. The result, in combination with a lower dosage, is a much more structured and restrained wine that needs a little time in the glass for the fruit to open up — the end result is something quite special. Do not serve it too cold. Disgorged September 2025. 12.5% alc | 3.5 g/l dosage | $78
Idée Fixe – Blanc de Blancs – Davis I10V1 – 2021. A powerhouse. The acid structure is more pronounced and the minerality takes on a chalky character. A fascinating wine that will come into its own when paired with grilled scallops in a lemon-butter sauce — the citrus characters are a defining feature on the palate. A highlight. Disgorged September 2025. 12.5% alc | 4.5 g/l dosage | $78
Henschke – Mount Edelstone – Shiraz – 2022. In contrast to The Wheelwright, the Mount Edelstone has far greater initial impact on the nose. There is no escaping the sheer intensity of the ripe, almost opulent fruit. On the palate, a seemingly never-ending cascade of berry and plum flavours floods the tastebuds, whilst the minerality — driven, I suspect, by the acidity — is much more evident. Whilst it appears at first glance barely more than medium-bodied, there is tremendous latent power sitting behind the fruit, with the oak and tannins adding depth, texture and structure as the perfect foil. Stupendous. John Jens suggests this is the greatest Mount Edelstone ever produced. I am not going to argue. Aged for twenty months in French oak (8% new). 14.5% alc | 97 points | $300
Henschke – Hill of Grace – Shiraz – 2022. On the nose, this combines the subtle suppleness of The Wheelwright with the power and sheer depth of the Mount Edelstone. The fruit sits in the just-ripe plum spectrum, tinged with cherry and transitioning to blueberry. Yet nothing could prepare me for the palate. The sheer depth of fruit left me slightly weak at the knees and almost light-headed with delight. Is this the perfect wine? Quite possibly. I could not imagine a more profound wine anywhere in the world. There can be only one Hill of Grace, and I am extremely fortunate to have had the privilege of tasting it. Matured in 100% seasoned French oak casks for twenty months. 14.5% alc | 98–99 points | $1,100
Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2024. Very pretty, ripe cherry fruit — delicious and impactful. I love the way the acidity plays against the fruit, adding energy and drive in conjunction with the fine, supple tannins. The textural components present as much as minerality as they do in the more traditional mouthfeel sense. Excellent length and persistence of flavour. An excellent drink now and over the next five years; the attractive fruit makes this highly approachable. Just as at home with food as it is on its own. 14.0% alc | 94 points | $60.
Battles – Pinot Noir – 2024. The purity here is simply stunning. The fruit is cherry-tinged, but also carries raspberry and blackcurrant notes. The palate is fine and elegant, supported by supple tannins and fine, vibrant acidity. Hints of earthy complexity add to the package, cascading into fine tannins and oak. These characteristics do not dull the fruit, but it is clear that a few years in bottle will see this grow in power and stature. A very fine wine indeed. Fruit comes from the Shepherd’s Hut vineyard in Porongurup. 13.5% alc | 95 points | $40
Picardy – Tête de Cuvée – Pinot Noir – 2023. A lot more structured and powerful. It has the same minerality as Picardy’s estate pinot, but everything has been turned up a notch. The effect is to render this somewhat closed straight out of the bottle — everything is there, but it needs five to seven years in the cellar to really hit its straps. The acidity is the driving force on the finish; and while it does keeps the fruit in check at this early stage, it also adds great drive to the palate. 13.5% alc | $120.
Singlefile – Family Reserve – Pinot Noir – 2024. Whilst the nose is somewhat subdued, the palate bursts to life with pinot goodness. This has the power and intensity you see in the best Central Otago wines, but with more structure supporting the fruit. A powerful wine with cherry-like fruit, spice and supple oak. Excellent purity and depth, with a seamless finish. A fascinating wine to drink now, though it will take another step forward with five to ten years in bottle. Clones 777 and D5V12; eleven months in French oak barriques (30% new). 14.3% alc | 95 points | $65.
Singlefile – Great Southern – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – NV. A very impressive wine. There is real depth and power to the fruit, supported by a degree of richness from the autolytic characters. The blend is 84% chardonnay and 16% pinot noir, with the former the driving force, contributing the citrus fruit characters. The gentle autolytic characters add depth and texture, showing subtle brioche and dough notes. A superb wine equally at home with fine food as it is on its own. A blend of seven different vintages spanning 2015 to 2021, with a proportion of fruit from Pemberton. Spent four years on lees and, with a dosage of only 3 g/l, this could be classified as extra-brut. Available exclusively from the cellar door due to limited production. 12.5% alc | 95 points | $60.
Singlefile – Run Free – Pinot Grigio – 2025. A lovely wine. Floral aromatics combine with gentle viscosity and great acid balance. Most noteworthy is the length of flavour, with the grapey fruit making an impact along the full length of the palate. Fresh enough to make this a great afternoon drink, yet with enough savoury structure to be an excellent companion to lighter foods. 12.9% alc | 93+ points | $28
Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Chardonnay – 2023. A totally sublime wine. The perfect intersection between fruit weight, ripeness, acidity and oak. Plenty of ripe peach, but this is complemented by more savoury almond-like nuttiness and distinct minerality on the palate. I can even imagine a hint of sea-spray on the finish. Great length and persistence of flavours, with the textural components continuing to excite long after the fruit has dissipated. Lime notes too close. A superstar! 13.5% alc | 97 points
Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. Wow. Whilst this was served a little warm (it has been a warm March), the underlying quality is hard to ignore. Depth, power and precision are the hallmarks of this wine. Silky, supple, with a degree of plushness that is most attractive. It is the density and complexity of fruit that stands this apart. The best Moss Wood that I have tried in several years. 14.0% alc | 96 points
Houghton – Gladstones – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. This is a superstar. Intense, powerful, sublime. The fruit quality is stunning, and the winemaking does not get any better. Spectacular. Silky and powerful, at the same time. A bargain! 96 points
Vasse Felix – Heytesbury – Chardonnay – 2024. This is a seriously great wine. The intensity is something to behold, yet it remains lithe and elegant. Not exactly subtle, and nor should it be. The amalgam of fruit and complex winemaking inputs is a highlight, as the lees work and oak in no way interferes with the fruit. Curry leaf minerality, subtle struck match notes, flint and spice all swirl around the glass. The peach-like fruit is grapefruit tinged, adding energy and drive to the nose and palate. The length and persistence of flavours are quite extraordinary, as is the seamless palate transition. A magical wine and one of the best young Heytesburys that I can recall drinking.
100% Gingin clone fruit, wild ferment, 10 months in French oak (53% new), with a smattering of puncheons (15%) and the remainder smaller barriques. 80% of the wine went through malolactic fermentation, attenuating the natural acidity. 13.5% alc | 97 points | $140
Vasse Felix- DHH1 – Chardonnay – 2024. This has a lot more in common with the Premier than it does with the Heytesbury, but like the latter wine, the intensity has been turned up to 11. This intensity comes primarily from the spectacular fruit, with the winemaking components more subdued compared to the first wine. Interestingly, the fruit profile is more grapefruit than peach, and there are no tropical characters to be seen anywhere. What is most remarkable is how the acidity is a defining feature of the wine, yet does not impart any aggressiveness whatsoever. As good as it is now, it will be even better in 3–5 years. 100% Gingin clone, 100% malolactic fermentation, 11 months in one- to four-year-old oak. 13.5% alc | 96 points | $80
Swinney – Farvie – Mourvèdre – 2024. Oh my, the perfume here is quite extraordinary. Cranberries and black currant make up the fruit component to the nose. This carries through to the palate. The palate is fascinating as this is, at first, delicate and reticent, with restrained fruit and the supplest of structural components. But then the fruit ebbs and flows across the palate in waves, each time given a different glimpse of the story being told. And a minute or more later, I found myself absorbed by the mouthfeel, with different textural components interplaying across the palate. Totally seamless and very beguiling. A wine to sip and ponder. A crouching tiger, ready to pounce 13.6% alc – 96pts.
Swinney – Farvie – Shiraz – 2024. Oh wow, I think I must have died and gone to heaven, such is the beauty of this wine. Intense fruit, firm structure and supple oak. Yet the palate is seamless and spellbinding. Red fruits to the fore, with the minerality a defining feature of the palate. Intensity? Yes! But somehow, this remains medium bodied in many respects on the long, refined finish. Seamless, yet more structured than the other two wines in the range and my pick for both sheer quality as well as drinking pleasure at this early stage. When to drink? any time you get the chance… this is a superstar. 13.8% alc- 98pts.
Welland – Valley & Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2024. Such lovely, aromatic, perfumed fruit on the nose. On the palate, the sweet berry fruit is balanced by fine, texturing acidity and supple minerality. Ok, so this is not the most serious wine ever made, but gee, it has to be one of the most delicious. It is the ripe, vibrant fruit that is the star, but the winemaking has contributed significantly, by taking a hands-off approach.
The winery states: We aim for a style that typifies the Barossa – plush fruit, subtle use of oak and soft, round tannins. And with this wine, they have nailed it. 14.5% alc – 94.5pts – $30.00.
Welland – Old Hands – Shiraz – 2022. This is a hedonistic wine, in the best sense of the word. Not because it is overly big or ripe. Rather, it is because they have packed so much fruit into what is, for all intents and purposes, a refined and elegant wine. Silky, supple, delicious, but at the same time, it is also dense, powerful and structured. Yet the palate transition is totally seamless. The oak (40% new American) has been completely absorbed into the wine. This is a magical drink now but will be even better in a decade or two. Svelte. Matured in locally coopered AP John American oak barrels. 15.0% alc – 97pts – $70.00.
Mondavi The Reserve To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
Wow, just wow. Absolutely gorgeous fruit leaps out of the glass. Blueberry and blackcurrant and spectacularly ripe. The palate is luscious, powerful and supple, with amazing chocolate. The depth of this wine is breathtaking. The silky, seamless structure is quite amazing. 12 x 6 packs available. Focused. Precise. A striking wine. Great length. Plush, velvety. Great oak. 14.9% alc.
97-98 points | $350.00
Castle Rock Estate A&W Riesling 2024
The best fruit for the vintage is used in the A&W range. This is a step up in concentration and depth of flavours. The acid balance is stunning and the intensity is impressive. Spends an extra four months on lees compared to the Estate, which has a very positive impact on the finish, demonstrating lovely mouthfeel and texture. The gentle fruit handling eliminates almost all influences of skin contact, resulting in the purest expression of Riesling. Delicate, yet immensely impactful and powerful at the same time. A stunning wine. The fruit is hand-picked, and receives a very gentle pressing of the whole bunches, resulting in a yield of only 400-450 litres per tonne.
96 points
Castle Rock Estate Diletti Riesling 2023
This is a much more savoury, textural wine, with a 100% barrel ferment in older oak. Treated more like a Chardonnay than a traditional Australian Riesling in the winery, with extended lees ageing. Still fresh and lively with the Castle Rock DNA, but there is much more in the mouthfeel and texture. A brilliant drink now, but also able to be cellared with confidence. At the end, the acid really cuts through conferring great energy and drive.
95 points
Castle Rock Estate A&W Pinot Noir 2024
More savoury structure here. The fruit is perfectly ripe, but tending more to dark cherry characters rather than the more strawberry-like fruit of the estate. A complete wine that makes for great drinking now or over the next
Singlefile The Pamela Riesling 2025
OMG. This is stunningly pure and quite perfect. The texture, power, intensity and presence is just spectacular. Seamless, silky. Oh so long and fine. Talc. This is both delicate and intense at the same time. One of the finest wines to come out of the Great Southern. The gentle phenolics are a highlight allowing the ripe fruit to shine. From a vineyard in the southern part of the Porongorups. Subtle. 12.1% alc. (Oct 2025).
96 points
Singlefile Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2023
This is an altogether more serious wine that combines ripe though restrained cooler fruit and Burgundy-like structure in a compelling package. While it is not as immediately accessible as the Single Vineyard, it has more structure and depth and is more impactful on the finish. The fruit is in the cherry spectrum, and is complemented by fine, texturing tannins and oak. Ultimately, I would like to see this in a year or two, but it still represents great drinking now, perhaps with pulled pork belly sliders. From the winery’s Denmark vineyard planted to clones 777 and D5V12, aged 18 months in French oak (35% new). 13.9% alc.
Drink: Now-2030 | 95+ points | $63
Singlefile Family Reserve Chardonnay 2024
This is very good indeed and something of a bargain! A very intense offering that has depth and layers to the fruit, supported by supple, sympathetic oak handling. Despite the intensity, it is actually quite shy and reserved at first glance, until the pineapple-tinged peachy fruit really builds depth and intensity in the glass. A superbly made wine that boasts innate power and great depth. Brilliant winemaking on show here, the texture is a real highlight. While this is drinking a treat already, I can’t help but feel that 5 years in the cellar will add even more to the package. Nine months in oak (one third new), regular bâtonnage, partial Malolactic fermentation. 13.4% alc.
Drink: Now-2032 | 96+ points | $63
Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2025
For a wine that is as good as any I can remember, my tasting notes are quite sparse. Musk, talc, sherbet, lime juice and a touch of crème brûlée. The phenolics are a key component to this wine, as despite the fact that it is seamless, there is excellent textural grip. Dry, tight, pure, intense and with impressive length. A structured, subtly powerful wine that has a 20-year drinking window and needs time to show its best. Drinking a glass of this at the end of the tasting was pure nirvana! 12.3% alc. (Oct 2025).
Drink: Now-2050 | 97+ points | $85
Duke’s Magpie Hill Riesling 2025
If anything, this is even better than the 2024. There is a step up in perfume with this wine. The floral characters are spectacular, with jasmine and sherbet highlights. The palate is seamless and silky, the acid invisible and the phenolics an invisible accompaniment to the fruit adding mouthfeel and texture. This has echoes of Polish Hill and is just as impressive. With air, this gets even more perfumed and is quite spectacular. (Oct 2025).
97 points | $48
Duke’s Magpie Hill Reserve Cabernet 2022
Wonderful perfume. Blueberry, violet, perfume. Supple, textured and very fine. This is perfectly ripe, but very cool climate. The tannins are incredibly fine, the oak invisible. The length of flavours is outstanding, as is the persistence. This must surely be one of the finest cool climate Cabernets in Australia. (Oct 2025).
96+ points | $46
Duke’s The First Cab Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
Houghton clone, from the original Forest Hill research station plantings. I like this just as much as the Magpie Hill, though it is very different. The fruit is fleshier and more opulent, and if anything, more impressive. The mouthfeel and texture are quite spectacular. So, so impressive. (Oct 2025).
97 points | $66
Sittella Reserve Chardonnay 2024
On first impression, this was quite reserved and shy, only hinting at potential. With air though, the ripe peach-like fruit is slowly coaxed from the glass. After 15 minutes, this really started to shine, the fruit opening and evolving, while the creamy texture on the finish proved a real highlight. The oak is fine and texturing, and while nicely integrated, is palpable on the palate at this early stage. And the wine was much better drinking on day two. 13% alc.
Drink: 2028-2034 | 95 points | $40
Sittella Avant-Garde Chardonnay 2024
If I had to use one word for this wine, it would be “polished”. The fruit is quite superb, with layers of stone fruit building on both the nose and palate. And the palate is near seamless, with only a touch of textural grip building on the very close, putting a ripple through the finish. But this is merely a factor of youth, and in time, the texture will settle back and allow the fruit to speak more clearly. The flavours and textural components linger on the finish for more than a minute, gaining a touch of honey on the close. A captivating wine of great appeal. 13.0% alc.
Drink: Now-2030 | 95 points | $33
Sittella Berns Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
Oh my, this is good, with the wine taking on a slightly cooler character. There is an ethereal nature to the brambly fruit, though at this early stage, the fine though prodigious tannins make their presence felt on the finish. That said, the fruit then builds on the finish, almost magically coating the tongue from back to front, and continues to linger for an age. A lovely wine that will reward cellaring for a decade or more. A belter of a wine. 14.5% alc.
Drink: 2030-2040 | 95 points
Sittella The Arsenal Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec/Cabernet Franc 2023
This is an impressive wine. Fine fruit, polished winemaking and supple oak come together in a more accessible style than the Berns Reserve. This is a case of less being more as, despite not being the most powerful or biggest wine in the tasting, it has presence and, importantly, excellent drinkability. Given its sheer drinkability, this is one of those wines that is likely to be drunk young, therefore missing the best that it has to offer if you can be patient. 14.5% alc.
Drink: Now-2038 | 95 points | $39
Forest Hill Riesling Block 2 2025
More phenolics here, and much more intensity. Intense lime juice, hints of toast and even a touch of struck match minerality. Compared to the Block 1, this is moving to a more Germanic style; the hint of residual sugar adds texture and drinkability, without adding any overt sweetness. The acid is the hero here, seamlessly driving the palate without adding any aggressiveness. A textural wine that is superb drinking now on its own, or with food, but is likely to age well in the medium term.
Drink: Now-2030 | 96 points | $40
Forest Hill Riesling Block 1 2025
2025 was a more typical year, though harvest was 2-3 weeks earlier than usual. Across the board, grapes were picked in optimal conditions and have resulted in a wine that is stunningly pure. This is very fresh: lime, jasmine and so much more. The palate is so long and powerful, with a refreshing ocean-spray saline tang that rips across the palate. The fruit was picked at perfect ripeness, riper than is typical for Australian Riesling, which adds texture and mouthfeel from the subtle phenolics without sacrificing precision. From the original plantings.
97 points | $TBC
Forest Hill Cabernet Malbec 2023
Wow. The blueberry fruit is just spectacular. So fresh and pretty, with remarkably fine tannins and oak in perfect balance with the fruit. The fruit quality is just superb. Medium-bodied, with a touch of savoury bay leaf and hints of violet. Incredible length and persistence. A superb drink now, or any time over the next 10-15 years. The Cabernet comes from Block 7, 1975 plantings of Houghton clone. 35% Malbec from 20-year-old vines, and sees almost no new oak. 180 cases produced.
96 points
Forest Hill Block 5 Cabernet Sauvignon 2023
Stunning wine. So intense and powerful, yet seamless and silky in the same breath. The fruit takes on darker tones compared to the Cabernet Malbec, with a brambly, almost earthy component sitting behind the blackberry fruit. With air, the pretty fruit really builds, gaining depth and intensity. On the very close, the textural grippy components also build, adding important textural components. 25% new 300L French oak barrels. Best rows of the block are used in this wine, particularly those from the crest of the ridge on the vineyard. 250 cases made.
97 points | $80
Shepherd’s Hut – Shiraz – 2023. This is super vibrant and fresh, and bursting with succulent red and black fruits. I can’t get over just how gob-smackingly delicious this is right from the get go. Raspberry, fragrant plum and hints of floral notes. Underneath this, there are subtle earthy notes, with flashes of liquorice and spice, and a light dusting of tannins and acid to keep the palate in balance. Whilst this is all about the immediate drinking pleasure today, a few years in the cellar will see this gain greater depth. 13.8% alc – 94pts – $30.
Shepherd’s Hut – Michael Mayo – Pinot Noir – 2024. I love the nose for its seductive allure. Plush, ripe strawberry tinged fruit jumps from the glass. It took a bit of air before this really came to life, with dark cherry fruit, textural tannins and refreshing acidity all combining into a rather splendid drink. At this early stage, this is not a showy wine, rather, it is something to be sipped and savoured, whilst contemplating life’s great mysteries (such as whether to have beef cheeks or bolognaise for dinner accompanied by this fine wine). 13.2% alc, 95pts – $55.
Faber – Reserve – Shiraz – 2022. There is more plum here, and lashings of creamy oak which has a seductive vanillin character. The fruit is ripe, super ripe, befitting a prestige shiraz from the Swan Valley, with the acidity being the hero here, keeping the fruit fresh and adding drive to the finish. The palate is very long with great persistence, and the fruit remains focused throughout the palate transition. After 20 minutes in the glass, this really started to shine and was clearly the audience’s pick for the day. A classic, warm region shiraz, this spent 22 months in new oak hogsheads prior to bottling. 95pts – $100 (a bargain at $80 for club members via the website).
Swinney – Farvie – Shiraz – 2022. Smells somewhat cooler, with hints of mint and even a touch of eucalypt. This flows onto a palate that is lithe, supple and medium-bodied, but also structured, powerful and very, very fine. Superb, the sense of presence this has in the mouth is something to behold. Length is a feature, with supple savoury notes adding greatly. Oak is for all intents and purposes, invisible, but a key contributor to the wine’s structure. An iron fist in a velvet glove? Yes. A remarkable wine. 14 months in seasoned oak, partial whole-bunch. 13.5% alc – 98pts – $180.
Forest Hill – Block 9 – Shiraz – 2022. This was the first wine of the tasting, and a great way to start. Lovely ripe fruit is pristine, perfumed and fragrant. Spice, mouthfeel and gently chewy texture add to the package on a palate that has truly amazing length. But it is oh so closed and tight right now. Yet this remains silky for the entire length of the very long palate, with the flavours lingering for some time. This is very age-worthy, with extraordinarily fine tannins and oak. 95-96pts. A bargain at $70.
Thomas Kiss – “Kiss” – Shiraz – 2022. More structured and savoury. But still with a core of spectacularly ripe fruit. This is something of a chameleon wine. Whilst it is taut, restrained and fine, there is a core of powerful, dense fruit that runs the length of the palate. The finish has excellent length and persistence and is, for all intents and purposes, seamless. White pepper and minerality build on a finish that is beautifully textured. A wonderful wine which is still available for $80. 97pts.
Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale – Elsa – Sauvignon Blanc – 2024. Complex and serious, this is most impressive. The power of the fruit mirrors that of fine chardonnay, as does the barrel and lees work. The pristine lemony fruit is the main focus, but the texture and mouthfeel, along with the sheer depth of fruit makes this very special indeed. And it is all the better for the drying finish. 14.0% alc, 95pts. (22 June 2025)
Xanadu – Stephens Road – Chardonnay – 2023. Talk about impact! As I brought the glass to my nose with this wine, the powerful, peachlike fruit leapt from the glass. But it was not just primary fruit, it was the panoply of aromas (from flint and minerals to struck match) that amplified the impact. Yet the wine remained tightly focused at all times. In the mouth, the fruit sits more in the grapefruit spectrum and, whilst quite tight and restrained, has wonderful line and length. The length is, in fact, a standout feature.
The wine underwent barrel fermentation, however malolactic fermentation was prevented to preserve freshness of acidity. Drink now with seared scallops or give it 5 years to fully unwind and show its ultimate potential. 13.0% alc, 96+pts. (19/6/2025)
Xanadu – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. This is more reserved and, if anything, more mainstream, and all the better for it. In fact, this is quite special. The ripe fruit is the focus and has seamless palate transition and great length. This is already so good right now. The finish is viscous, textured and supported by brilliant oak use. A better wine than the Stevens Road? In absolute terms, no: but it is a more accessible style that many will prefer.
The fruit for this wine is made with Gingin clone fruit from the Lagan vineyard, which is the oldest chardonnay vineyard on the property. It underwent 100% barrel fermentation with wild yeast and was aged in French oak (20% new). 13.0% alc – 96pts. (19/6/2025)
Yalumba – The Signature – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – 2022. Delicious!. This is a riper, more accessible wine than the Margaret River cabernets, and a fantastic counterpoint to those cooler region wines. Mint? Yes, blackcurrant? Yes. This has all the trademarks of high-quality cabernet, but there is another layer to this wine, with plum, liquorice and gentle spices all adding to the package. Excellent length and persistence are a highlight, while the acidity keeping the whole package alive and fresh. Superb tannin management adds to the textural charm. Wonderful wine. 14.4% alc, 96pts.
Vasse Felix – Tom Cullity – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 2021. OMG, this has the most fantastic nose. Ripe blueberry and blackcurrant fruit positively leaps from the glass, supported by a frame of supple oak. The palate is, if anything, even more exciting, and a brilliant expression of super premium cabernet. A remarkable wine that is brilliant now, but will be even better with time in the cellar. My wine of the 2021 vintage from Margaret River and a superstar. 19% Malbec, 16 months in French oak barriques (68% new), 14.0% alc, 97+pts.
Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. Oh my, this is also spectacular, but presenting in a very different way. Here, the silky fruit is everything. Ripe, yet restrained, this has poise and grace. In the mouth, the cascade of fruit continues to excite, with the finest, most polished tannins providing an invisible lattice of support, yet contributing greatly to the mouthfeel and sense of power and gravitas. An exceptional wine. now to 20yrs +. Cassis. 13.5% alc, 96pts
Blackstone Paddock – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. OK, so lets get one thing clear. This was not as good as the Tom Cullity or Diana Madeline, but… for $20, it is a spectacular buy.
Darker fruit notes, firms structure and real depth to the fruit. If anything, this has echoes of Bordeaux to the way it sits in the mouth. There is plenty of power and firm tannins, suggesting that 5 – 10 years cellaring would be handsomely repaid. Get it while you can from Aldi. 14.5% alc, 95pts – $22.
Windance – Glen Valley – Chardonnay – 2023. The line and length on this are noteworthy. Fine fruit (nectarine and hints of citrus, with even a flash of pineapple) has been polished in the winery, adding depth and texture, without impacting on the flow across the palate. Not having gone through malolactic fermentation, the acid is fine and perfectly matched to the fruit weight. The finish has a seamless quality. An excellent wine and absolutely delicious to boot.
90% Gin-Gin clone, 10% 95 Clone, Wild Ferment, 10 months in oak (50% new). 12.5% alc – 95pts – $46.
Windance – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. The first thing that grabbed my attention was the structure, rather than the fruit per se. The way the fruit and oak tannins have been polished is exemplary. But as this sits in the glass, the fruit quality slowly starts to express itself, with the flavours building in layers across the palate. Ultimately, the very fine (though prodigious) tannins close down the finish, but these never get aggressive or coarse. Rather, they act like a blanket, turning down the intensity of the fruit, without diminishing the intrinsic quality. This is a very fine wine, and extraordinary value.
Includes a small proportion of Malbec and Merlot. The wine was aged in French oak barriques for eleven months (35% new). 13.8% alc, 95pts – $40.
Windance – Glen Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. This is very good indeed. Fine, elegant and restrained, the fruit quality is quite superb. The structure is a highlight, allowing the silky fruit to be the star, but still acting as a strait-jacket, keeping everything tightly controlled. Needs time but is a remarkable wine. Spent 12 months in French oak barriques (60% new). 13.8% alc, 95pts – $60.
Grosset – Gaia – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. If I had to choose one word to describe this wine, it would be “polished”. But it could also be: fine, elegant, restrained, intense, subtle, supple, superb and awesome. I actually struggled to pull flavour and aroma descriptors together for this wine as it is such a complete package, and everything melds together, making for a delightful wine that is superb drinking today, but will surely be even better in a decade’s time. With air, the perfumed, floral fruit really built. A remarkable wine! Includes the addition of 14% cabernet franc and the wine spent 18 months in French oak barriques (45% new). 13.8% – 96+pts – $108. (31 May).
Houghton – Gladstones – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. This is quite spectacular. The depth and intrinsic power of this wine is evident from the very first whiff. Blueberry, black currant, cedar and subtle spice all meld into a compelling bouquet. Fine, graphite-like tannins are silky and, whilst providing an almost velvety texture and structure, are remarkable for the way they allow the fruit to remain the focus. Enormous length of flavours. 13.75% alc – 96 – 97pts – $105. (31 May).
Katnook Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2021. This is a very good cabernet. It is not the most dense or overtly powerful wine, but it makes up for this with lithe, elegant fruit and palate structure. Medium bodied, and very approachable now. In fact, this would be an excellent by-the-glass wine for current consumption. But over the next two days, this really opened and showed enough structure to reward medium cellaring. Living in Western Australia, I do not review that many wines from Coonawarra, but clearly, I should make a greater effort. 14.5% alc – 94pts – $47. (31 May).
Craggy Range – Te Muna – Sauvignon Blanc – 2023. This is a more serious expression of sauvignon blanc. There are subdued tropical fruit notes, but the textures and flavours speak equally to the skilled winemaking which has softened the exuberance of the grapes and added layers of complexity. Great with food (pan-fried whiting fillets), or for sipping and savouring on its own. 12.5% alc – 94pts.
Juniper Estate – Cornerstone – Wilyabrup Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2023 This is a very impactful wine that has had royal treatment in the winery. Quality oak (228l barrels, 35% new) and plenty of lees characters combine with ripe peachy fruit which is pineapple tinged. Impressive, the lemony acid is the hero here, cutting through the richness and making for a superb wine. It is remarkable that a wine with only 12.5% alcohol can have this much flavour. 12.5% alc, 95pts – $65. (28 April 2025)
Fermoy – Estate Reserve – Chardonnay – 2024. This is very, very good. But in a different style than we typically see from Margeret River. Fine, elegant and restrained, but there is subtle intensity to the fruit that is quite outstanding. Seamless, the oak adds texture and grip, without impacting on the line and length of the palate. Lemon pith and hints of cinnamon build on the close. A modern style and a lovely wine. 95pts. (28 April 2025)
Grosset – Piccadilly – Chardonnay – 2023. An outstanding wine that just gets better and better the longer it sits in the mouth. The intensity, depth and power of the fruit is a revelation. I am sure that there is high-quality oak packed in there somewhere, but it does nothing to impede the flow of the fruit in any way. A superb wine which is great drinking now, and will age for at least 5 years with ease. 12.7% alc – 95pts. (28 April 2025)
Fighting Gully Road – Smith Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2022. Wow. This is quite amazing. Stunning fruit, superb winemaking, magnificent presence and impact. Yet there is a degree of restraint and subtleness that reeks of quality. The persistence and length of flavours is extraordinary. Still very youthful and will evolve over the next 5 years. This is a very fine wine indeed and represents good value for a wine of this quality.
The fruit comes from the Smith Vineyard, which was planted in 1978, making it the oldest chardonnay vineyard in Beechworth. The wine was matured for 12 months in fine-grained Troncais MT oak (1/3 new). 13.5% alc – 96pts – $85. (26 April 2025)
Vasse Felix – DHJ1 – Singe Plot – Chardonnay – 2023. Oh my, this is really very good. On first glance, it presents as very fine and elegant, reflective of its cooler climate origin, but it metamorphoses as it sits in the mouth, building layer upon layer of fruit, complemented by superb winemaking that, somehow, imparts an extra dimension of goodness (think texture, mouthfeel and depth), without impeding the flow of the fruit for a moment. The length and persistence of flavours are outstanding. Great wine. 12.5% – 96pts – $80.00. (19 April 2025)
Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – 2023. Another fine wine, but here, everything has been pared back. It lacks for nothing, but is a more subtle and supple expression of chardonnay. Very fine, this just gets better and better in the glass. Drinks well despite its youth, with excellent phenolics adding greatly to the mouthfeel. 13.0% alc – 94pts – $50. (19 April 2025)
Cullen – Kevin John – Chardonnay – 2023. My tasting notes for this read like a picklist of descriptors for the perfect chardonnay. Peach, nectarine, hints of citrus. Subtlety, suppleness, power, density, seamless, gentle viscosity. The length and persistence of flavours were one of the highlights of the tasting. So surely this must be the best wine? Probably, though it is a very tight run race with the Vasse Felix and Pierro (and Cherubino and Flametree). (April 2).
Pierro – Chardonnay – 2023. It is hard to imagine a better wine, such is the quality here. This has everything that you could ask for in a chardonnay, and then some. Yet somehow, it manages to present as shy and restrained at the same time. A chameleon wine that has the flexibility to be enjoyed on its own, or with a variety of different foods. Winemaking notes add impact in a very positive way. 97pts. (April 2).
Vasse Felix – Heytesbury – Chardonnay – 2023. This is very impactful, in a very good way. Intense citrus-tinged fruit is what this wine is all about. With the winemaker’s inputs serving to highlight rather than obscure its impact. First impressions are of a somewhat shy wine, but this is underplaying just how good this is. Rather than shy, it is just that here, subtlety is the key. Every component of the wine is outstanding, but it is the way it comes together that makes this special. The palate is oh-so-long on the close. Beautiful. 97pts (April 2).
Thistledown – Charming Man – Grenache – 2023. This is quite splendid. The fruit is vibrant and fresh, with lovely red fruit characters bouncing around the palate. There is serious structure from the winemaking inputs, but these only serve to highlight the fruit, rather than closing down the palate. The pretty, pretty fruit is intense and subtle all at once. A superstar which has received huge reviews elsewhere. Single vineyard in Clarendon in the McLaren Vale. 96+pts – $100. (26 March).
Sandalford – Prindiville Reserve – Shiraz – 2018. Cooler fruit characters that, whilst fine, are intense and packed with subtle power. The fruit is more cherry than plum, reflecting the cooler region. Oak is an aid to mouthfeel and texture, rather than an overt character This is an impressive wine that is remarkably good drinking already. The thought of sitting down to a steak or rich ragout accompanied by a glass of this wine is very appealing indeed.14.5% alc – 95pts. (26 March).
Elantro Vineyard – Balnarring – Chardonnay – 2023. Wow, this wine lives up to the hype and, if anything, is even better than I was expecting from this new project from Sando Mosele. Superb fruit which is refined and elegant, and just a little subdued straight out of the bottle. But the sheer quality of the fruit is what stands this apart, along with the deft use of oak and lees influences, which add depth and texture without imparting overt flavours. The viscosity on the palate is a joy to behold, mesmerising the senses as the fruit gradually evolves for what seems like minutes. On the very close, the fruit picks up a slight pineapple note, adding to the appeal. Sealed with a Diam cork. 13.5% – 96pts. (March 23).
Sandalford – Prendiville Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. This is very good indeed. The fruit is ripe, yet restrained and the winemaking has served to emphasise the quality and the textural aspects, without adding specific characters. Peach? Yep, but also a lot more. A delight to drink, the fruit drifts along on a raft of acid and fine oak, with just the right amount of generosity. 13.5% alc, 95+pts. (March 23).
Woodlands – Woodlands Brook Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2023. More intensity to the fruit on the nose and palate, and the winemaking notes are pared back compared to the 2022 vintage of the same wine. The mouthfeel is where this really shines, with a lovely creamy texture coating the palate from end to end. Whilst the intensity is impressive, the elegance and poise here are the highlights for me. Very good indeed. Wild ferment in oak puncheons (40% new). 95pts – $60. (Dec 12).
Woodlands – Clementine – Cabernet Blend – 2021. From the Woodlands Brook Vineyard. Fruit presents quite differently to other Woodlands vineyards, with smaller berries that have a firmer structure. The fruit is hand sorted prior to crushing, to ensure only pristine fruit makes it into the blend. Opens with a wonderful nose, the berry fruit leaping from the glass. On the palate, the red fruits give way to a more savoury tannin structure, with souring cherry acidity adding freshness and life. Despite this, the mouthfeel is excellent, with the palate transition being near seamless, despite the graphite-like tannins and savoury mocha notes that sit under the fruit adding depth. 45% cabernet sauvignon, 23% malbec, 22% merlot and 10% petit verdot. 13.5% alc – 95 pts. (Dec 12).
Woodlands – Eleanor – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. A beautiful blend of the styles seen in the 2018 and 2019. There are lovely floral fruit characters that are evident in the 2019, with supple savoury structure sitting underneath. Like the 2018, the tannins are plentiful, but are polished and refined, becoming a texturing feature rather than a dominant characteristic. Incredible length of flavours with blue and black fruit building. In the 18 months since I first tasted this wine, this has come together beautifully and, from my perspective at least, may be the best wine released under this label.13.5% alc – 97pts. (Dec 12).
Howard Park – Jeté Rosé – NV. Base wine from 2021 vintage, 31 months on lees, extra brut, 87% pinot noir. Pretty salmon-tinged hue. This is very drying. Taut, yet not austere or hard. Very much in the aperitif style. Red fruits build as the wine warms. The low dosage is apparent. Excellent length. Will really benefit from a year or two in the cellar. (24 November)
Freycinet – Radenti Grand Vintage – 2016. From Bicheno on Tasmania’s east coast. 5 – 6 years on lees, 8 g/l dosage, 60% chardonnay. There is a wow factor here, even though the aromas and flavours are not familiar to me. Power, intensity, depth, texture, this has it all. The mouth-coating texture and near seamless palate transition are a revelation. Lingers for some time, with the fruit ebbing and flowing across the palate. Superb wine. 96pts. At $75, this is a steal direct from the winery. (24 November)
Deviation Road – Beltana Late Disgorged – 2011. Produced by Kate Laurie in the Adelaide Hills, this wine had an incredible 12 years on lees prior to disgorgement. 100% chardonnay, 7 g/l dosage. Wonderful wine that is redolent of crunchy Granny Smith apples that run the length of the palate and provides the acid backbone that keeps this alive and fresh. Intense, subtle power. Great length of flavours. No food is required. A wonderful wine on the world stage. 96 pts. A bargain at $145 from the cellar door. (24 November)
Singlefile – The Pamela – Riesling – 2023. This is just sublime. The wine is at once delicate and shy yet, almost magically, powerful, intense and textured all at once. The palate is seamless, captivating, charming and irresistible and the flavours build and linger for an age. The ultra fine acidity builds on the finish leaving the palate dry and the taster longing for another sip, or perhaps some freshly shucked oysters or even a vegetable gyoza. From the Misery Hills vineyard in the Porongorups. 11.7% alc, 97pts – $45. (16 Oct).
Singlefile – Fumé Blanc – Sauvignon Blanc – 2024. This is a very complex wine with grapefruit characters, struck match, minerality, lemony acidity, texture, depth, and subtle power. The wine evolves and transforms as it lingers on the palate, showing excellent intensity, yet drinking beautifully already. A superb wine. 75% of the wine was fermented in new oak barrels. The aim was to make a wine in the style of a white Bordeaux and the team have succeeded admirably. Value! 13.3% alc, 95pts – $35. (16 Oct).
Singlefile – Rosé – Sangiovese – 2024. Pretty colour, pretty packaging, pretty nose, pretty wine! This is such a fine and elegant wine with hints of red berry fruit and a subtle texture that is crying out for some tapas. One of the few rosé style wines that I want to actually drink. Bravo!. 12.7% alc, 93pts – $35. (16 Oct).
Singlefile – The Philip Adrian – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. My initial response was OMG!. This is just stunning. Intense and packed with latent power, yet so, so fine and elegant. The fruit coats the entire length of the palate building and evolving over time. Remarkably this is seamless and so, so long and fine. Superb fruit and wine making collide into a truly extraordinary wine. Drink any time over the next three decades. From the Riversdale Vineyard in Frankland which was planted in 1997 to Houghton clone. 15 months in oak (40%new). 14.1% alc, 97pts – $100. (16 Oct).
Grosset – Polish Hill – Riesling – 2024. Pristine, vibrant, perfumed and extraordinarily pretty. This is just beautiful, and it is unlike almost any riesling I have had before (and I have had a few). The palate is silky and textured. Yet there is extraordinarily fine acid driving the finish, with a mere hint of phenolics adding to the texture. And it kept improving in the glass, developing layers of aromas and flavours. Pointing this wine does not do it justice, it is that good. 12.1% alc, 98pts – $80. (30 Sept).
Grosset – Springvale – Riesling -2024. More subdued nose. But on the palate, this comes to life with energetic drive and great composure. Very long and fine, this is classic Clare riesling, with lime juice, gentle minerality and extraordinary texture. A wonderful wine. 12.5% alc – 96pts – $55. (30 Sept).
Grosset – Alea – Riesling – 2024. Perfumed and gently spiced – a truly mesmerising nose. The palate has a generosity that stands this apart from the others in the range, the residual sugar playing an important part here. This is balanced by supple phenolics and super-fine acidity. A lovely drink and one that would be perfect on a warmer afternoon, served with some tapas. To quote the winery “This is the fifteenth vintage of the ‘European’ style from the Grosset Rockwood Vineyard with its hard red rock and poor orange/red loam soil.” 12.5% alc, 96pts – $48. (30 Sept).
Deep Woods – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. This has everything turned up a notch. More depth of fruit, more complexity from the winemaking and more impact from the texturing oak. Here, the citrus has been replaced with the more typical tropical/pineapple acidity. Lees and barrel work add greatly, with minerality and struck match notes really adding to the mix. And there is tremendous length and persistence of flavours. The fruit is primarily from Wilyabrup and spent time in 35% new oak (a combination of barriques, hogs heads and puncheons). A superb wine that deserves to be considered amongst the region’s finest. 13.0% alc, 96pts – $80.00. (23 Sept).
Deep Woods – G2 Single Vineyard – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Leads with a wonderful nose which includes blueberry and blackberry fruit. The resolved tannins and oak add supporting structure and mouthfeel, but do not impede the flow of the fruit in the slightest. Superb drinking and so, so long. Yes, it should age, but honestly, I would not bother as it is such a good drink now. 14.0% alc, 95pts – $50.00. (23 Sept).
Deep Woods – Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Wow, wow, wow. This is so impressive. The power, intensity, structure and complexity are turned up to 10, yet this is still only medium bodied and offers immediate drinking pleasure. Brilliant winemaking, the integrated, highly polished oak is a highlight. This is more blackcurrant and spice rather than blue fruits and the tremendous length and the mouthfeel is a rare pleasure. Despite all the power, this is elegance personified. A point of differentiation between this and many of the other great Margaret River cabernets is that this uses Yallingup fruit of the estate vineyard right out the front of the winery, as opposed to Wilyabrup fruit. 14.0% alc, 97pts – $90.00. (23 Sept).
Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2023. This is very impactful, with ripe fruit and complex winemaking inputs flooding the senses. This is really very good. There is a richness and generosity running the length of the palate which develops pomelo/grapefruit notes in addition to more typical stone fruit characters. The acid is a highlight and adds drive to the finish. Great drinking now – 5 years. Hand picked, whole bunch pressed, 25% new oak puncheons. 12.5% alc, 95pts – $65.
Howard Park – Allingham – Chardonnay – 2023. Finer, more subtle and more restrained than the estate. Not taut, but a little shy today. But that is not doing this wine justice, as the quality of the fruit and winemaking is superb. There is a dangerous drinkability to this wine, however, this will be really hitting its peak in 5+ years. The oak (25% new barriques) is very fine and textured, adding weight and gravitas rather than overt flavours. Only a small proportion went through malolactic fermentation.
The fruit for this wine comes from the Block 5 on the Allingham vineyard in Karridale, which is planted to Gingin clone. The cooler subregion presenting a very refined style. 12.5% alc. 96pts – $100.
Howard Park – Leston – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Oh wow. The prettiness of the fruit is arresting, supported by seasoned oak and firm tannins. This is not necessarily accessible, but it is impactful. With air, the presumed fruit really builds, and has clearly been protected during the winemaking process. Give it 10 years and be rewarded. 14.5% alc, 95pts – $TBC. (Sept 15).
Howard Park – Abercrombie – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. This takes everything to another level. Superb fruit which has hints of blueberry, but is much darker toned than the Miamup. The oak handling perfectly frames the fruit, allowing the fruit to be the focus, yet providing depth, power and texture. The mouthfeel and silky tannins are a highlight, contributing to a wine that is so approachable now, even thought it has clearly been built to age long term. Ultimately though, this is taut and closed, and needs years to reach its drinking peak. Wonderful wine. Houghton clone fruit, from the Leston vineyard,18 months in barriques (30% new). 14.5% alc – 97+pts – $155. (Sept 15).
Sittella – Avant Garde – Albarino – 2024. This is very pretty, with the aromatics tending towards apricot and Turkish delight. The palate is viscous, textured and complex, with balancing acidity to keep the finish fresh and alive. There is a hint of honey on the close which is most attractive. Surprising and delicious! From a new vineyard opposite the winery, this is one to watch over the next few years as the style continues to evolve. 93pts. $33.
Sittella – Avant Garde – Chenin Blanc – 2024. What a cracking wine ! Whilst taut and fresh, with grapefruit/citrusy acid, the balance is brilliant and the flavours continue to evolve and build long after swallowing the wine. Age-worthy? Yes, but this should also be on everyone’s go to list this summer. Grapes come from the 1963 block on the old Houghton vineyard, the second oldest chenin block in the Swan Valley. The grapes are hand picked and whole bunch pressed. 95-96pts. $33.
Sittella – Avant Garde – Chardonnay – 2023. This smells both very impressive and also expensive, given the high-quality fruit, winemaking and oak that is on show. Structural components and taut acidity lurk on the periphery, adding mouthfeel and texture, without colouring the fruit which is the star of the show. Dangerously drinkable and a bargain. 95pts.
Sittella – Golden Mile – Grenache 2022. Yes, yes, yes! Love the colour, love the perfumed fruit, love drinking it. Smash it down and be happy! Interestingly, the glass I tasted this from had a big impact on the profile, with it looking much more serious and structured in a Riedel pinot glass than it did in a Riedel chianti glass. 95pts – $40.
Picardy – Chardonnay 2023. This is a fine rendition of chardonnay. White peach and lemon dominate both the nose and palate, with subtle oak and winemaking inputs adding greatly to the package. Length and persistence are exemplary, with supple acidity adding drive on the finish. A very appealing wine that, with a few years in the bottle, should build greater depth. 12.5% alc, 94-95pts. (16 May).
Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2022. A very pretty wine. Cherry, liquorice and spice make up the foreground, with complexity building minerality and an almost ferrous character adding greatly to the finish. This is supple enough to enjoy now (with or without food), but a few years in the cellar will see this build a lovely velvety texture and get even more expansive on the finish. An excellent pinot which is very well made. 14.0% alc. 94pts. (16 May).
Picardy – Tête de cuvée- Pinot Noir – 2022. This is altogether more serious and powerful, yet magically, comes across as soft, supple and seamless straight out of the bottle. (OK, so I did use a glass). With air though, the power and intensity of this wine starts to express itself more fully. Density, structure, intensity – all the hallmarks of a fine wine. Five years in the cellar will see this start to sing as the fruit opens up and the finish starts to fan out. Again, minerality, and an almost saline tang brings the finish to life. 13.5% alc. 95+pts. (16 May).
Singlefile – Single Vineyard – Mt Barker – Pinot Noir – 2023. This is in a different league to many of the pinots that the panel reviews. As expected, the pretty aromatic red berry and cherry fruit is the focus, but the wonderful silky structure is what sets this apart. Supple intensity, excellent length and persistence of flavours. Whilst this is a lovely drink now, you can sense that this is going to develop brilliantly in the bottle over the next 5 – 8 years. 13.7% alc. – 94pts – $37. (May 23).
Singlefile – Run Free – Pinot Noir – 2023. Supple, fleshy and delicious. Not overly complex or serious, but who cares when you can drink a wine this slurpable at a price that is affordable enough to have with a mid-week bowl of pasta. From estate vineyards in Mt Barker and Albany. 13.8% alc. 90pts – $28. (May 23).
Swinney – Farvie – Grenache – 2022. Great colour in the glass and wonderfully pure, pretty grenache fruit on the nose. And on the palate this explodes into life. Yes, it is fine, elegant and structured, but the fruit is an absolute joy to behold. Ripe plum, echoes of liquorice, cinnamon and an almost umami-like savoury goodness add to the enjoyment. The finish is a highlight, as it is silky and finely textured. Counterintuitively, the fruit seemed to recess back into the wine over time and took a full three days to show its best. If you must drink one of the Farvies now, then this is the one that I recommend. 28% whole bunch, wild ferment, 11 months in oak (0% new) 14.0% alc – 96pts – $150. (5th May)
Swinney – Farvie – Syrah – 2022. The colour in the glass is just amazing and there is sensational red berry fruit. In the mouth, this is very fine, elegant. supple and subtle, yet at the same time this has tremendous impact and wonderful intensity. The length and persistence of flavours is outstanding, as is the purity of the fruit. Gentle spice and amazing texture are supported by the finest of tannins that add silkiness and structure, but do not impede the flow of the fruit in the slightest. Irresistible now, but sure to age for decades if you can keep your hands off it. Remarkably, this had 65% whole bunch in the (wild) ferment. 14 months in oak (0% new) 13.5% alc, 97pts – $150. (5th May)
Swinney – Farvie – Mouvedre – 2022. This is quite a different beast. It is just as fine and elegant as the other Farvies, but here, the fruit takes on a very different tone. Rather than berries or plum, this is much more savoury, with an almost earthy character running the length of the palate. Minerality, chalky tannins and balancing acidity all serve to keep the fruit in check. A fascinating insight into the variety, but also into the way a wine can evolve (for the better) once opened. On days 1 – 3, I much preferred the Syrah and grenache, but on day four, this came into its own, the rich berry fruit positively bursting from the glass. I was stunned by the transformation. 66% whole bunch, 11 months in oak (0% new), 14.1% alc, 95+pts – $150. (5th May)
ith almond meal notes and texture/viscosity that is most attractive. The palate has depth and is quite seamless, with pineapple-like acidity building and adding drive and persistence. On the finish, the stone fruit builds and is a feature. Barrel ferment (35% new oak), wild yeast, no malolactic fermentation. 12.5% alc – 95pts – RRP $65. (21 April).
Juniper Estate – Cornerstone – Karridale – Chardonnay 2021. There is more nervous energy here. Yes, the fruit is ripe but it is the acidity that defines the palate, in a very good way, adding freshness and vitality and bringing the mouthfeel into focus. A wonderful wine that will be at its best in 3 – 5 years. Barrel ferment (40% new oak), wild yeast, no malolactic fermentation.12.5% alc – 95+pts – $65. (21 April).
Singlefile-Family Reserve-Chardonnay-2022. What a wonderful wine! This is beautifully balanced, combining the best of both modern and traditional chardonnays, conferring a degree of richness and viscosity to the fruit, whilst maintaining freshness and drive thanks to the beautifully balanced acidity. The end result is an irresistible wine of great quality. Nine months in oak (1/3 news), partial malolactic fermentation. 13.3%alc – 96 pts – $60. (21 April).
Famille Bougrier – Confidences – Vouvray – Chenin Blanc – 2022. This is quite rich, viscous and textured, that has some resemblance to viognier/white Rhone. Gentle stone fruit, supple mouthfeel, excellent length and persistence. This is really very good drinking and outrageous value to boot. 12.5% alc – 92pts – $23. (7 April).
Galafrey – Reserve – Riesling – 2023. Gentle savoury notes are a feature initially, however the highlight is the palate, which is pristine and pure, with wonderful mouthfeel and texture. The acid drive makes this feel very dry, but I suspect that there is a touch of residual sugar that does wonders in fleshing out the mid palate and making this a superb drink now. But the aforementioned acidity will also confer extended aging abilities. 12.0% alc – 94+pts – TBC. (7 April).
Cherubino – Gingin – Willows Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2022. OMG. This is an absolute treat. Here, the superb fruit has been deftly handled in the winery to present a compelling, seamless (if somewhat youthful) wine with real impact. Stone fruit, peach, viscosity, texture and supple oak are all in harmony, thanks to the superb winemaking. Fine. Modern expression of Margaret River Chardonnay. 13% alc – 96pts. (7 April).
Galafrey – Dry Grown Vineyard – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. This is still just a baby. There are attractive blueberry fruit notes, but straight out of the bottle, this is a bit grippy. Having said that there is no denying the impressive intensity and length of the fruit. With air, and despite its relative immaturity, the palate is remarkably seamless in the way the fruit transitions from front to back. But this needs time. A decade would be a great start. A bargain for the cellar. 14.0% – 94pts – $35. (24 March)
Victory Point – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. Wonderful nose, wonderful palate, wonderful wine. This has intense blackcurrant fruit supported by very sympathetic, quality oak handling. The red berry fruit on the nose sets the scene, but it is in the mouth where this gets really exciting. The palate is totally seamless and the mouthfeel and balance exquisite, with great concentration of fruit and length/persistence. A magical wine that despite its immediacy (it is delicious right now), is capable of medium-term ageing. 15 months in French oak barriques (38% new),13.5% alc, 96pts – $55. (packed in a lightweight bottle). (24 March)
Juniper Estate – Cornerstone – Wilyabrup – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. Precise, ripe and so, so approachable, yet there is a serious nature to this wine lurking beneath the placid exterior, with the tannins kicking in on the finish, closing down the fruit somewhat. But with air, the fruit quality really shines, complemented by supple winemaking inputs. 94% Cabernet (Houghton clone), with a splash of malbec and cabernet franc, 17 months in French oak barriques (45% new). 14% alc – 95pts – $80.(24 March)
Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. Oh wow. The quality and class of this wine just leaps out of the glass, with superb fruit that has both red and blackberry characters. Supple, texturing oak adds to the innate depth and power, but the wine remains lithe and elegant the entire length of the palate. One of the superstars of the 2020 vintage and a huge bargain at $100. 13.5%, 97pts – $102. (24 March)
Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – 2022. Pristine fruit is what this wine is all about. Fine and elegant, with excellent mouthfeel. The winemaking is quite superb, the texturing oak and barrel work adding depth and impact without detracting from the stone fruit notes. The finish has excellent length and persistence. What impressed me most about this wine was how it continued to develop depth and power over 2-3 days after opening. An excellent wine in its own right and good value to boot. 84% Gingin clone/16% Bernard clones 95, 96 and 76. 8 months in oak (44% new), 13% alc, 94pts – $45. (17 March).
Vasse Felix – DHJ1 – Chardonnay – 2022. A very fine and elegant wine. The fruit is more in the grapefruit/melon spectrum than stone fruit, . The mouthfeel is silky and supple and the palate transition is totally seamless. What sets this apart is that the final wine is much more than the sum of its parts. The entire package is restrained and fine, yet the end result is a wonderful wine that is full of life and energy. Good now, but will be even better in 5 years. Gingin clone, 8 months in 1-3 y/o oak, 12.5% alc, 95pts – $75. (17 March).
Vasse Felix – Heytesbury – Chardonnay – 2022. Taut and fine, this is a model of restraint initially. But don’t be fooled by first impressions, this is a wine of great intensity, depth and flavour. Intense, peach-like stone fruit characters dominate the nose, whilst the palate adds citrus notes to the mix. The oak and winemaking inputs are, somewhat magically, invisible and impactful at the same time, conferring a sense of power and gravitas to the wine without impeding the flow of the fruit. The acid drive is a highlight, whilst the length and persistence are impeccable. A graceful, elegant wine that will be at its peak for a decade to come. Gingin Clone, 8 months in oak (56% new), 13%alc, 96pts – $120. (17 March).
Vasse Felix – Tom Cullity – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 2020. This is the most impactful of the lineup, with the tannins and oak making an appearance much earlier in the palate transition than the previous vintages. But with a little bit of air, the spectacular fruit starts to build and just keeps on going, coating the whole length of the palate. Intense and powerful, yet this remains silky and supple. A superstar, but one that I would like to see in the third decade of its life. 14.5% alc – 97pts. (3 March)
Nocturne – Sheoak Vineyard — Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Brilliant cabernet that, like Baby Bear’s porridge in Goldilocks, is just right. Medium bodied, seamless, fine and elegant. The winemaking (oak) is very much in the background, with the fruit front and centre. It is only on the close that the structural components start to build, adding texture and depth, whilst being in no way aggressive The graceful palate transition is a highlight. A wonderful wine (in a very heavy bottle). Made using estate grown fruit. 14.5%alc, 95-96pts – $TBC. (22 Feb).
Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. Whilst at 13.5%, this has the same alcohol level as the 2022 Cullen Diana Madeline, this is a riper, more accessible style that allows the fruit to shine. That said, the structure and power continues to build in the mouth for some time after it is swallowed, making for a textural, impactful wine that remains supple all the way to the very long close, with the fruit lingering the whole time. Impressively subtle power here. Great drinking now or in 30 years (the 1991 is drinking brilliantly now). Another stellar wine that cements Leeuwin Estate in the highest echelon of Margaret River cabernet producers. 13.5% alc, 95-96pts – $102. (22 Feb).
Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Yep, this is good. In fact, it is very good indeed, but here the fine tannins and oak suppress the fruit initially. These are never aggressive, but they do require a bit of patience to let them settle down and relax. By doing so, you will be handsomely rewarded. Another cracking wine from one of the greats. 13.5% alc, 95pts – $TBC. (22 Feb).
Grace Farm – Cabernet/Malbec – 2018. Impressive! Act one is the fruit which has immediate impact, flooding the nose and palate with fleshy berry fruit. Act two is the acid that keeps the fruit balanced and in check. The supporting cast includes the oak (44% new) and tannins, which build the mouthfeel and texture, without taking anything away from the fruit. A single vineyard blend of cabernet sauvignon (80%), malbec (8%), petit verdot (7%) and cabernet franc (5%). 14.0%, 95pts – $40. (22 Feb).
Mandoon Estate – Wild Bunch – Chenin Blanc – 2023. I love this wine. It has all the crunchy freshness of chenin blanc, but with greater textural components than most. The way the flavours and textures evolved as it warmed up in the glass showed just how versatile these wines can be. (Straight from the fridge it was crisp and refreshing and, as it warmed a little in the glass, the textural components and richness built). 94pts – $TBC. (18 Feb).
Leo Buring – Leopold – Riesling – 2022. Pristine and very fine, this appears delicate on first impression. But underneath the lemon essence notes, the thrilling acidity brings the palate to life. Perfectly balanced, with length, precision, poise and elegance. A great drink now, but also age worthy. From Tasmania. 12% alc. 93-94pts – $37. (18 Feb).
Yalumba – The Signature – Cabernet/Shiraz – 2018. A beautifully constructed wine that has significant depth and density. This is in a style that is different from southwest Western Australia, as there is greater viscosity and a degree of earthy, chocolatey complexity. Yet at its core there is purity to the fruit that is quite captivating. Drink any time over the next 20 years. 14.5% alc. 94-95pts – $70. (18 Feb).
The wine that stood out for me in terms of quality and value was the Veuve Monsigny Premier Cru Brut from Aldi. Whilst this is all about zesty freshness and vitality, there is enough autolytic characters to make for an excellent everyday Champagne. And at $40 (for a limited time) this is the bee’s knees. (Dec 29).
Forest-Marié
A highlight of the tasting was the wines of Forest Marié. The Brut Tradition stood out for its balance of freshness with richness and texture. Good length, gentle grip, creamy mouthfeel and fine acid drive combine in a great drinking package. 9.6g/l dosage, a high proportion of reserve wines used. (Dec 29).
Jean Vesselle
There was only one wine on tasting (Extra Brut) and it was a highlight. Intense, rich, rounded and long. This was a great drink and one I recommend trying. (Dec 29).
Sevenhill – Pinot Gris – 2023. Floral and pretty with musk, ripe pear and talc notes expressing on both the nose and palate. This is a lovely wine that has an almost ethereal nature. There is density to the fruit, complementing the near seamless palate transition. A wonderful summer afternoon drink that would also accompany food very well. 12% alc, 93pts, $28. (6 December).
Sevenhill – Riesling – 2023. This is classic Clare riesling that is quite taut and restrained, with mouth-tingling acidity that builds in layers across the palate. The fresh lime notes build with air and the palate never gets aggressive or harsh. A very age-worthy style that would be a great match with grilled prawns at this early stage of its life. 12% alc, 94pts, $27. (6 December).
Hutton Vale Farm – Riesling – 2023. A very intense style that is bursting with fresh, zesty fruit, supported by thrilling acidity. This is a great drink and will be superb with gently poached salmon, as the acidity and freshness will provide the perfect foil to the richness of the fish. Just off dry, with a bright mid palate, this is not overly complex right now, but this will flesh out with age. In the meantime, enjoy it for its youthful exuberance. 12.5% alc, 93pts, $35.
Hutton Vale Farm – Off Dry – Riesling – 2023. A delicious, albeit unusual style in the Australian context, as there is obvious sweetness to the palate. This is supported by fine acidity and the combination results in a delicious wine that would be ideal served chilled on a warm day. And the lower alcohol means that a glass of this mid-afternoon is not going to set you on your ear. Give me a straw . 10.5% alc, 92pts, $35.00.