Barry Weinman – May 2026

Established in 1973 on what was once a group-settlement dairy farm in Wilyabrup, the estate is part of the original pioneering wave that helped define Margaret River as a world-class fine-wine region. The name relates to a hay shed perched on a rise above the then-pastures, where the wines were originally made.

After a number of ownership changes, the modern interpretation of Hay Shed Hill began in 2006, when winemaker Michael Kerrigan, together with a small syndicate of partners, acquired the vineyards and brand, and began shaping the estate’s wines to reflect his approach to winemaking and the region’s unique characteristics.

Michael is no stranger to Margaret River, having spent more than a decade as winemaker at Howard Park before taking stewardship of Hay Shed Hill. His philosophy is resolutely vineyard-first and proudly indifferent to market fashion. Central to this is the original vineyard, planted between 1973 and 1975, the fruit from which is used to produce the “Block” series.

In addition to the Block series, there are several other ranges:

• Vineyard Series: using estate fruit from vineyards planted in 1985
• World Series: using grapes from areas outside Margaret River
• Pitchfork: the entry-level range
• Kerrigan + Berry

The latter refers to Kerrigan’s long-running collaboration with Gavin Berry, chief winemaker at West Cape Howe in the Great Southern. The partnership deliberately sets aside parochial regionalism in favour of a broader Western Australian lens. Fruit is sourced from sites across Frankland River, Mount Barker and Margaret River, with each wine shaped by the shared belief that the best results come from minimal interference and maximum respect for provenance. The arrangement extends to Kerrigan making the wines at West Cape Howe’s facilities, with grapes picked at night to ensure they arrive in perfect condition.

When reviewing a cross-section of wines from the Block, Estate and Kerrigan + Berry ranges, what struck me most was the combination of quality and value on offer — particularly in the chardonnay — especially when you factor in the 20% discount available to “The Palate Room” members. This makes wines such as the Block 6 Chardonnay ($50/$40) and the Hay Shed Hill Chardonnay ($30/$24) outstanding buying.

My focus during this tasting was on chardonnay and cabernet, but the quality-to-value proposition seems to continue across the range, the Kerrigan + Berry Riesling ($30/$24) being a fine example.

Reviewed

Kerrigan + Berry – Riesling – 2025. Such a lovely drink. Floral aromatics lead the way, with orange blossom and gentle zest. The palate possesses an almost magical quality: seamless, supple, gently textured and flooded with elegant fruit. The finish is dry but not remotely austere. A fantastic drink now, though it is also likely to age well in the medium term. Fruit sourced from Mount Barker. 12.0% alc | 95 points | $30

Kerrigan + Berry – Chardonnay – 2025. Very pretty perfumed florals lead the way — hints of star jasmine, orange jessamine, talc and honeysuckle. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with fruit as the clear focus, complemented by the sensitive use of inputs. Free-run juice was barrel-fermented for ten months in oak (30% new), with no lees stirring or malolactic fermentation. Ultimately, this is quite tight and restrained, and is worthy of five years in the cellar to allow the fruit to build further. The acidity is bright and perfectly matched to the fruit. 12.5% alc | 94 points | $40

Hay Shed Hill – Morrison’s Gift – Chardonnay – 2025. Another wine with pretty aromatic fruit, though here the ripe stone-fruit characters take centre stage. The palate is rich, round and supple — quite delicious. You can almost taste the sunshine. Gin Gin clone, eleven months in oak (15% new), with a wild ferment adding further texture. Outrageous value. 12.5% alc | 94 points | $27

Hay Shed Hill – Chardonnay – 2025. A more serious and, ultimately, more powerful rendition of chardonnay, with greater depth and presence. Not as overtly ripe as the Morrison’s Gift, yet more generous than the Kerrigan + Berry — a Goldilocks wine of sorts, sitting in the middle of the range stylistically. A feature for me was the length of flavour, with the fruit lingering for an age. Gentle minerality adds to the package, and the texture is an excellent counterpoint to the fruit. Great value; drink over the next five years. Gin Gin clone, ten months in oak (30% new), no lees stirring or malolactic fermentation, keeping fruit the main focus. 12.5% alc | 94 points | $30

Hay Shed Hill – Block 6 – Chardonnay – 2025. There is a clear step up in intensity here, with the perfumed fruit taking on a more powerful persona, reflected on the palate where the acidity, oak and fruit all have greater presence. At this very early stage it is already drinking brilliantly — do not serve it too cold — but the whole package will really come together with five to ten years in the cellar. Brilliant value, and the wine I would most recommend if you were to try just one. Planted in 1975 with Gin Gin clone, the vineyard has a southerly aspect that helps preserve freshness. As with the other chardonnays, no lees stirring or malolactic fermentation; fermented in barrel (30% new) and aged for ten months prior to bottling. 12.5% alc | 95 points | $50

Kerrigan + Berry – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. The first release of this wine in five years, and it coincides with an excellent cabernet vintage across both Mount Barker and Margaret River. A 50/50 blend of the two regions, the wine spent eighteen months in French oak, 50% new. The fruit quality is outstanding, but it is the way it has been shaped into a serious, powerful wine that makes it stand out. There is a sense of presence and occasion. Quite closed at this early stage of development, the seamless nature of the palate means it can be enjoyed at any point over the next twenty years. I have often loved cabernet blends from these two regions — think Howard Park in years gone by — and this wine serves to reinforce the synergy. 14.5% alc | 95 points | $70

Hay Shed Hill – Block 2 – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. This has the power of the Kerrigan + Berry, but adds a degree of floral opulence to the fruit. On the finish, the tannins are notable for both their intensity and the way they remain supple. The acidity adds drive, whilst the oak adds polish and texture. Needs years, but will be excellent — and it can handle food now. A fine wine indeed. Fruit comes from the original estate plantings of Houghton clone cabernet on the Wilyabrup property; like all the Vineyard Series and Block wines, the vineyard is dry-grown. 14.5% alc | 95 points | $70

Barry Weinman – May 2026

Richard Rowe is not a household name when it comes to great Australian wine, but he should be. For more than 50 years, he has been instrumental in crafting some of Australia’s finest wines during stints at wineries including Leasingham, Evans & Tate and KWV.

Rumour has it that, after retiring to the Margaret River region of Western Australia, his children talked him into starting a boutique winery in the region. The results are spectacular.

2024 was the inaugural vintage, and the cabernet is fantastic. As good as the 2024 Karridale Chardonnay is, I prefer the soon-to-be-released 2025 from Wilyabrup.

What is most remarkable is the value these wines offer. At $60 per bottle, they are terrific bargains, especially given the tiny volumes produced.

Please try a bottle and let me know what you think.

Reviewed

Rowe — Gin Gin Clone — Wilyabrup — Chardonnay — 2025
OMG. This is the real deal. Subtle, fine and elegant, yet incredibly powerful and intense at the same time. Ripe stone fruit comes to the fore, while the acidity drives the finish, though it never becomes intrusive. Rather, it confers flashes of pineapple across the palate. A wonderful wine and one that I would love to drink. A bargain. The wine was aged in French oak (30% new). 13.0% alc | 96pts | $60

Rowe — Single Site — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2024
This is something quite special. Whilst the pristine fruit is the main story, it is the silky palate feel that elevates this to the next level. The berry fruit is perfectly ripe and succulent, with the fine acidity acting as a key ally, adding drive and focus along the length of the palate. But it is the finish that earned this wine a gold medal. So fine, elegant and supple, with brilliant texture and a real sense of occasion. Perfumed, fragrant and near seamless.

Fruit comes from the Wiberry Vineyard in Wilyabrup. The wine spent 13 months in oak (30% new) from French cooper Tonnellerie Bossuet. This is a tremendous bargain, especially given the tiny production. 14.0% alc | 96pts | $60

Barry Weinman – May 2026

In 2012, Paul Holmes à Court, proprietor of Vasse Felix, acquired an additional Karridale vineyard — one of Margaret River’s most marginal and slow-ripening sub-regions. Sitting close to the ocean and influenced by the Leeuwin Current, it consistently produced chardonnay with unusually high natural acidity and restrained fruit expression. Whilst these qualities were considered challenging for table wine, they proved revelatory for sparkling wine production. Trial bottlings sparked what would become a decade-long preoccupation.

Following Vasse Felix’s acquisition of the former Watershed property in 2018, the stage was set for something more ambitious than an auxiliary sparkling programme. Rather than building production within the existing Vasse Felix portfolio, Holmes à Court chose to create a fully independent sparkling house, with its own purpose-built facility, identity and long-term horizon. That decision gave rise to Idée Fixe — French for a fixed idea, a fixation, or an obsession unlikely to be shaken by practicality or fashion.

A key step in translating that obsession into reality was the appointment of Brendan Carr as senior winemaker at Idée Fixe in early 2023, having previously spent more than a decade as winemaker at Xanadu. A Len Evans Tutorial Scholar and an active national wine-show judge, Carr’s résumé is grounded in fine-tuning detail rather than chasing scale. His role builds on foundational work undertaken by Michael (Mick) Langridge, who had previously led the development of Vasse Felix’s sparkling trials and helped design the Idée Fixe programme.

What Idée Fixe is ultimately trying to achieve is neither imitation nor novelty. The ambition is simply to make a world-class sparkling wine based on Margaret River chardonnay. This means a singular focus on Blanc de Blancs, restraint in dosage, extended time on lees, and an acceptance that success will be measured over decades rather than years.

In that sense, Idée Fixe is less a brand extension than a long-form argument: that Margaret River’s finest chardonnay, grown at its climatic margins and treated with obsessive care, belongs on the global sparkling stage — not as a curiosity, but as a peer.

The culmination of that obsession can be witnessed by visiting the Idée Fixe winery just south of the Margaret River township, where the former Watershed facilities have been transformed into exquisite premises. With the winery completed, the next step was to open the Salon, where visitors can undertake a tutored tasting exploring various facets of sparkling wine production. The cellar door team is led by Hayley Ward, who is as passionate about the venture as anyone in the business. A visit is highly recommended — if only to enjoy a glass of sparkling wine and take in the beautiful vista.

But ultimately, it is all about the wine — and this is where things get really exciting.

Reviewed

Idée Fixe – Brut Rosé – 2023. A stunning copper-tinged pink in the glass. Lifted aromatics define the nose, and the palate is fresh and vibrant with hints of berry fruit. Balance is a highlight, as is the length and persistence of flavour. The dosage at 5 g/l has been perfectly judged, rounding out the chiselled acidity and texturing gentle phenolics. Very approachable and perfect for a warm afternoon on the deck. A blend of 85% chardonnay and 15% pinot noir; 20% of the juice was fermented in older oak (barrels from Vasse Felix), with still pinot noir from the same vineyards blended in. Fruit sourced primarily from younger vines on the Karridale vineyard. Disgorged January 2026; one-third underwent malolactic fermentation. 12.5% alc | 5.25 g/l dosage | $54

Idée Fixe – Premier Brut – Blanc de Blancs. More intensity and power on the nose. Not as overtly generous as the Brut Rosé, but more than compensates with its minerality and intensity of fruit. Aromas of stone fruit, a touch of citrus and hints of sea spray, all complemented by exciting acidity, a well-judged dosage and a sense of purity. A fine wine. Disgorged September 2025; 48% underwent malolactic fermentation; 20% was barrel-fermented in old oak. 12.5% alc | 5.1 g/l dosage | $54

Idée Fixe – Blanc de Blancs – Bernard 96 – 2021. Much greater intensity, rivalling great Champagne in profile. Lemon and gentle autolytic notes tend towards almond and apricot kernel, and the texture profile is superb. There is a degree of richness and power here, whilst the minerality is also turned up a notch. The result, in combination with a lower dosage, is a much more structured and restrained wine that needs a little time in the glass for the fruit to open up — the end result is something quite special. Do not serve it too cold. Disgorged September 2025. 12.5% alc | 3.5 g/l dosage | $78

Idée Fixe – Blanc de Blancs – Davis I10V1 – 2021. A powerhouse. The acid structure is more pronounced and the minerality takes on a chalky character. A fascinating wine that will come into its own when paired with grilled scallops in a lemon-butter sauce — the citrus characters are a defining feature on the palate. A highlight. Disgorged September 2025. 12.5% alc | 4.5 g/l dosage | $78

Idée Fixe – Brut Reserve – Blanc de Blancs – 2019. This goes in a very different direction to the rest of the range. Everything has been pared back, resulting in a subtle, almost delicate expression of Blanc de Blancs. Yet sitting within this elegant façade is a wine of great presence. Overt power is replaced by sheer depth of flavour, and the acidity and minerality combine on the palate in a seamless way, adding layers of texture. This is a wine to sit, sip and ponder, allowing the flavours and textures to build and evolve over time. Primarily made from Davis clone chardonnay; 100% barrel-fermented in old Vasse Felix barrels. Given the cool year, 86% of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation to modulate the acidity. Six years on lees. 12.5% alc | 2.75 g/l dosage | $130

Barry Weinman – May 2026

Some days in wine are more remarkable than others. And so it was when John Jens reached out to ask whether he could bring around the new Henschke reds from the 2022 vintage.

To taste the Hill of Grace or Mount Edelstone is a rare treat. To taste them side by side, alongside the Wheelwright and the Hill of Roses, was an extraordinary privilege — and the wines did not disappoint. Whilst the sheer quality was a given, the highlight for me was the subtle variations in style that each vineyard presented.

2022 in the Barossa was a cooler, more finely structured vintage — less powerful and opulent than 2021, and more elegant and precise. This allowed the personality of each wine to express itself with particular clarity.

NB: The wines were not tasted blind, so points are indicative only. After all, who could avoid being influenced when, with the Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone, you know you are about to drink one of the world’s great red wines.

A special thanks to John Jens at Lamonts in Cottesloe for making this tasting possible!

Reviewed

Henschke – The Wheelwright – Shiraz – 2022. The first impression is one of subtlety and precision. There is ripe berry fruit, but it takes on an almost ethereal quality. The palate is a case study in elegance: everything is perfectly in place, supple and near-seamless in the way the fruit transitions along the tongue. The textural components add depth and complexity without ever being obtrusive. The persistence of fruit on the finish is a highlight. This is something of a chameleon — impressive now, yet certain to age beautifully for two decades in the right conditions. With air, the tannins become more impactful and the fruit retreats slightly; if drinking young, give it an hour or two in a decanter. The fine tannins are drying in a positive sense, and the minerality builds. A complete wine. Matured in French oak (10% new) for twenty months. 14.5% alc | 95–96 points | $165

Henschke – Mount Edelstone – Shiraz – 2022. In contrast to The Wheelwright, the Mount Edelstone has far greater initial impact on the nose. There is no escaping the sheer intensity of the ripe, almost opulent fruit. On the palate, a seemingly never-ending cascade of berry and plum flavours floods the tastebuds, whilst the minerality — driven, I suspect, by the acidity — is much more evident. Whilst it appears at first glance barely more than medium-bodied, there is tremendous latent power sitting behind the fruit, with the oak and tannins adding depth, texture and structure as the perfect foil. Stupendous. John Jens suggests this is the greatest Mount Edelstone ever produced. I am not going to argue. Aged for twenty months in French oak (8% new). 14.5% alc | 97 points | $300

Henschke – Hill of Roses – Shiraz – 2022. A completely different expression of Barossa shiraz. Here the oak has been wound right back, and a soaring acidity plays a far greater role in defining the wine, giving it great drive and energy whilst making it relatively unapproachable without food. In twenty years, I am confident this will come into its own — and you can always drink The Wheelwright in the interim. Matured in 100% seasoned French oak casks for twenty months. 14.5% alc | 95 points | $495

Henschke – Hill of Grace – Shiraz – 2022. On the nose, this combines the subtle suppleness of The Wheelwright with the power and sheer depth of the Mount Edelstone. The fruit sits in the just-ripe plum spectrum, tinged with cherry and transitioning to blueberry. Yet nothing could prepare me for the palate. The sheer depth of fruit left me slightly weak at the knees and almost light-headed with delight. Is this the perfect wine? Quite possibly. I could not imagine a more profound wine anywhere in the world. There can be only one Hill of Grace, and I am extremely fortunate to have had the privilege of tasting it. Matured in 100% seasoned French oak casks for twenty months. 14.5% alc | 98–99 points | $1,100

Barry Weinman – May 2026

With the cooler weather settling in, it is the perfect time for pinot noir. Last week’s panel tasting presented a number of wines well worth seeking out.

The most surprising wine was Singlefile’s 2024 Run Free Pinot Noir. How a wine of such quality can be sold for $30 is beyond me. The 2024 pinot from Battles is the first release of the variety from this producer, and it is a cracker. And the Picardy and Singlefile Family Reserve pinots showed the more serious side of the variety.

Reviewed

Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2024. Very pretty, ripe cherry fruit — delicious and impactful. I love the way the acidity plays against the fruit, adding energy and drive in conjunction with the fine, supple tannins. The textural components present as much as minerality as they do in the more traditional mouthfeel sense. Excellent length and persistence of flavour. An excellent drink now and over the next five years; the attractive fruit makes this highly approachable. Just as at home with food as it is on its own. 14.0% alc | 94 points | $60.

Battles – Pinot Noir – 2024. The purity here is simply stunning. The fruit is cherry-tinged, but also carries raspberry and blackcurrant notes. The palate is fine and elegant, supported by supple tannins and fine, vibrant acidity. Hints of earthy complexity add to the package, cascading into fine tannins and oak. These characteristics do not dull the fruit, but it is clear that a few years in bottle will see this grow in power and stature. A very fine wine indeed. Fruit comes from the Shepherd’s Hut vineyard in Porongurup. 13.5% alc | 95 points | $40

Picardy – Tête de Cuvée – Pinot Noir – 2023. A lot more structured and powerful. It has the same minerality as Picardy’s estate pinot, but everything has been turned up a notch. The effect is to render this somewhat closed straight out of the bottle — everything is there, but it needs five to seven years in the cellar to really hit its straps. The acidity is the driving force on the finish; and while it does keeps the fruit in check at this early stage, it also adds great drive to the palate. 13.5% alc | $120.

Singlefile – Family Reserve – Pinot Noir – 2024. Whilst the nose is somewhat subdued, the palate bursts to life with pinot goodness. This has the power and intensity you see in the best Central Otago wines, but with more structure supporting the fruit. A powerful wine with cherry-like fruit, spice and supple oak. Excellent purity and depth, with a seamless finish. A fascinating wine to drink now, though it will take another step forward with five to ten years in bottle. Clones 777 and D5V12; eleven months in French oak barriques (30% new). 14.3% alc | 95 points | $65.

Singlefile – Run Free – Pinot Noir – 2024. Surprising structure and power for a wine at this price point, yet the beautifully ripe fruit remains the star. There is weight here, taking on tones of grenache. Despite the power and structure, this remains totally approachable and delivers genuine pleasure right now, or over the next few years. With air, the fruit takes on a degree of plushness that is most captivating. A versatile wine that, like a chameleon, adapts to numerous drinking occasions. Fruit sourced from Mount Barker; matured in oak for approximately nine months. Ridiculous value. 14.2% alc | 95 points | $30

Barry Weinman: May 2026

Across various blind tastings conducted over the last few weeks, these are some of the standout wines.

Reviewed

Mann – Cygne Blanc – Sparkling – 2023. Quite a bit richer in colour than a typical pinot/chardonnay blend, taking on a golden straw hue. What struck me most about this wine is just how enjoyable it is to drink. Very supple, with a delicious generosity to the fruit profile. The finish is quite rich and round, but with excellent acid balance to keep things fresh and alive, and very good length of flavour — tending to bold rather than subtle, but not heavy. The residual sugar is an important addition, contributing richness and mouthfeel. A delightfully different expression of sparkling wine, unique to the Swan Valley. 12.5% alc | $50

Singlefile – Great Southern – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – NV. A very impressive wine. There is real depth and power to the fruit, supported by a degree of richness from the autolytic characters. The blend is 84% chardonnay and 16% pinot noir, with the former the driving force, contributing the citrus fruit characters. The gentle autolytic characters add depth and texture, showing subtle brioche and dough notes. A superb wine equally at home with fine food as it is on its own. A blend of seven different vintages spanning 2015 to 2021, with a proportion of fruit from Pemberton. Spent four years on lees and, with a dosage of only 3 g/l, this could be classified as extra-brut. Available exclusively from the cellar door due to limited production. 12.5% alc | 95 points | $60.

Singlefile – Riesling – 2025. Packed full of lime juice and lifted florals, but it is the minerality that grabs your attention — and the way the palate flows uninterrupted to a very long finish, despite the zesty acidity. A remarkable feat: the palate is supple and textured, with no rough edges whatsoever. Despite being a delicious and brillaint drink now, this will only improve with time in bottle, developing richness and power as the fruit slowly unwinds. The subtle phenolics and whisper of residual sugar elevate it further. The team at Singlefile suggest 2025 was a great year for riesling in the region — and with wines like this, I am not going to argue. A bargain. 12.5% alc | 95 points | $28

Singlefile – Run Free – Pinot Grigio – 2025. A lovely wine. Floral aromatics combine with gentle viscosity and great acid balance. Most noteworthy is the length of flavour, with the grapey fruit making an impact along the full length of the palate. Fresh enough to make this a great afternoon drink, yet with enough savoury structure to be an excellent companion to lighter foods. 12.9% alc | 93+ points | $28

Vasse Felix – Filius – Sauvignon Blanc – 2025. “Yum” is not a term I normally reach for with sauvignon blanc, but it fits here. Not overly complex, yet this has presence, depth and a mouth-coating texture that is quite remarkable. The fruit and texture linger for an age, developing gentle nutty characters. Almost chewy. In the blind tasting I was at a loss to identify the variety, but it is delicious and would be a great counterpoint to a mushroom risotto or grilled chicken. 100% of the wine was matured in seasoned oak barrels. 13.0% alc | 93 points | $28.

Here are three of the highlights from the last few weeks of tasting.

The 2023 Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay is another stunning rendition of this wine, and the 2023 Moss Wood cabernet is the best young Moss Wood that I have tasted in several years.

And a wine that I know nothing about, but charmed the panel was the Thunderstone Pinot Noir 2024. Great stuff!

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Chardonnay – 2023. A totally sublime wine. The perfect intersection between fruit weight, ripeness, acidity and oak. Plenty of ripe peach, but this is complemented by more savoury almond-like nuttiness and distinct minerality on the palate. I can even imagine a hint of sea-spray on the finish. Great length and persistence of flavours, with the textural components continuing to excite long after the fruit has dissipated. Lime notes too close. A superstar! 13.5% alc | 97 points

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. Wow. Whilst this was served a little warm (it has been a warm March), the underlying quality is hard to ignore. Depth, power and precision are the hallmarks of this wine. Silky, supple, with a degree of plushness that is most attractive. It is the density and complexity of fruit that stands this apart. The best Moss Wood that I have tried in several years. 14.0% alc | 96 points

Houghton – Gladstones – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. This is a superstar. Intense, powerful, sublime. The fruit quality is stunning, and the winemaking does not get any better. Spectacular. Silky and powerful, at the same time. A bargain! 96 points

Thunderstone – Porongurup – Pinot Noir – 2024. Looks, smells and tastes like pinot, which is a great start. But there is much more to this wine. There is a degree of intensity and gravitas to the high-quality fruit. On the nose, the fruit presents as strawberry, whilst on the palate, this takes on a cherry tone, with savoury notes really adding to the palate. The mouthfeel is excellent and, whilst not exactly plush, is near seamless and very commendable. The refreshing acidity is an important, and positive contributor. An excellent drink now, but will be even better with a couple of years in bottle. A very appealing wine. 13.5% alc | 95 points | $67

Barry Weinman: April 2026

Reviewing these wines (as part of a range of blind tastings) was a highlight of the wine week for me.
The wines really are very good, and the contrast between the chardonnays is fascinating. Over a couple of days, my favourite fluctuated back and forth. Ultimately, I prefer the Piccadilly now, and would like to see the Lenswood in a few years — and I absolutely loved the Pinot Noir.

With both the chardonnays and pinot, I was surprised to see that the vintage was 2025, given that the 2024s — and, in the case of the Leeuwin Art Series, the 2023s — from Margaret River are only just coming to market.

Regardless, when the wines are this good, the question is largely academic.

Reviewed

Grosset – Lenswood – Chardonnay – 2025. Wow. This is seriously impressive. Precise, laser-focused fruit is the star, but there is so much more to this wine. Intensity? Sure, but there is also balance and there is a degree of harmony. The acidity is the unsung hero in this wine, adding excitement and verve. The palate is basically seamless, but at this early stage, is full of nervous energy, giving insights into the ultimate quality. 13.2% alc | 96 points | $97

Grosset – Piccadilly – Chardonnay – 2025. Another cracking wine, and more approachable than the Lenswood at this stage. This is such a good drink, with the ripe fruit taking on a fleshy, juicy component. The oak adds impact but is not overdone. Despite the charming approachability, this is a serious, powerful wine. That power and depth gradually evolves over time in the glass, highlighting the quality of both the fruit and the winemaking. Exciting! 13.2% alc | 96 points | $97

Grosset – Pinot Noir – 2025. Wow. Wow. WOW. For what is only a very medium bodied red, it is hard to comprehend how they have packed so much complexity and quality into this wine. Pristine fruit has cherry overtones, but also savoury complexity. The mouthfeel is a highlight, the textural notes complementing the fruit. Seamless, this is incredibly moreish. Lovely, pretty, very youthful, this is a stunning effort that can be drunk with confidence any time over the next decade. 13.5% alc | 95.5 points | $97

Barry Weinman: 25th March 2026

Hot on the heels of the brilliant Cullen Kevin John and Pierro chardonnays from the 2024 vintage comes the trio of premium wines from Vasse Felix.

If you needed any further proof of the potential of the 2024 vintage for premium chardonnay in Margaret River, these three wines deliver that in spades.

Whilst the quality is the reason for this review, it is the contrasting styles between the three wines that are the most interesting part of the story. Same winery, same winemakers, same region, but each is a unique expression of high-quality chardonnay.

True to form, the Heytesbury is intense and powerful, with plenty of winemaking inputs on show, combined with an elegance and beauty to the wine that elevates this to the highest echelon of wines.
In contrast, the DHH1 retains the intensity of fruit, but here, the winemaking inputs have been stripped back, allowing the pristine, ripe fruit to stand in the spotlight. The biggest surprise for me was that this was 100% Gingin clone, as is the Heytesbury.

And sitting comfortably between these styles is the Premier chardonnay. Whilst this does not have the ultimate quality of the other two, it makes up for this by being absolutely delicious drinking

Reviewed

100% Gingin clone fruit, wild ferment, 10 months in French oak (53% new), with a smattering of puncheons (15%) and the remainder smaller barriques. 80% of the wine went through malolactic fermentation, attenuating the natural acidity. 13.5% alc | 97 points | $140

Vasse Felix- DHH1 – Chardonnay – 2024. This has a lot more in common with the Premier than it does with the Heytesbury, but like the latter wine, the intensity has been turned up to 11. This intensity comes primarily from the spectacular fruit, with the winemaking components more subdued compared to the first wine. Interestingly, the fruit profile is more grapefruit than peach, and there are no tropical characters to be seen anywhere. What is most remarkable is how the acidity is a defining feature of the wine, yet does not impart any aggressiveness whatsoever. As good as it is now, it will be even better in 3–5 years. 100% Gingin clone, 100% malolactic fermentation, 11 months in one- to four-year-old oak. 13.5% alc | 96 points | $80

Vasse Felix – Premier – Chardonnay – 2024. A lovely wine that stylistically, straddles the middle ground perfectly. Not as intense or intrinsically powerful as the Heytesbury, powerful as the Heytesbury, but this is more than compensated for by an approachability and drinkability that is most attractive. The stone fruit characters are the primary feature, the winemaking taking a back seat on the palate. That said, the oak is clearly of high quality and very well handled, adding palate richness rather than overt flavours. Perfect for a sunny afternoon, catching up with friends and enjoying the simple things in life.
90% Gingin clone fruit, with a trio of Bernard clones making up the clonal mix. Wild ferment, 10 months on lees, 10 months in oak barriques (30% new). 13.5% alc | 95 points | $46

Leo Buring Riesling: When less is more

March 2026

We put the current release Leo Buring rieslings against some of WA’s best, and they stood out for both quality, and for the slightly different fruit profile associated with South Australia as compared to Frankland River

The other remarkable feature was that the alcohol content of both wines is 10.5%. I find this particularly exciting. To put this in perspective, drinking half a bottle of this has approximately the same alcohol as drinking two full-strength cans of beer.

Ultimately, however it was the quality and, with the Eden Valley in particular, the value that was most impressive.

Reviewed

Leo Buring – Eden Valley – Riesling – 2025. This is fine, elegant, delicate and subtle. It is also supple and incredibly good drinking. The persistence and length of flavours are outstanding. Those flavours are primarily at the front of the palate, with the fruit characters giving way to ever-so-fine structural components along the length of the tongue. Think minerals, talc and texturing acidity. The acidity is more of a sensation than overt character. The nose is very pretty, with hints of musk, lime, and an almost nectarine character. There is an immediacy to this wine that is captivating. A tremendous bargain. 10.5% – 95pts.

Leo Buring – DWC 17 Leonay – Riesling – 2025. Another cracking wine, but this is more intense, with the juicy, lime-laden fruit the defining feature. Excellent length and persistence, but has remarkable restraint to the high quality fruit. And the superb balance is a highlight. A sleeper of a wine, where experience tells me that this will be a superstar. Built for the long haul. 10.5% – 96pts.