In a very strong line-up of chardonnays, Cullen Wines’ 2025 Kevin John and Hardys’ 2023 Eileen Hardy stood out for both their absolute quality and their contrasting styles.
And it has been several years since any of the panel had encountered St Hallett’s Old Block Shiraz, with unanimous praise for the 2019. The depth of the old-vine fruit that goes into this wine is very impressive.
It should be noted that 2019 appears to be the current release, with the winery’s website listing older vintages for sale.
Battles — The Burnside — Chardonnay — 2025 A lovely start to the tasting. Ripe, yet restrained; textured and viscous, yet light and airy on the palate. This really is a very good wine. The length and persistence of flavour are a highlight. Sublime. I would like to see this over a few days, as it is seamless, but also quite closed. Pretty floral notes and minerality leave a lingering impression. 13.3% alc | 94pts | $90
Hardys — Eileen Hardy — Chardonnay — 2023 A different style, but a wine of great quality. Here, the fruit ripeness is a touch more overt, with pineapple and stone fruit aromas swirling around the glass. The palate is rich and carries obvious fruit weight, yet it remains lithe and fresh along the entire length of the palate. Despite the power, the palate transition remains seamless. The intensity here is really next level. An amazing wine. 13.5% alc | 96pts | $150
Cullen — Kevin John — Chardonnay — 2025 Here is a wine so subtle that it almost defies description. Yet it has great presence and viscosity that is next level for a wine this fine and elegant. But the true magic happened once it sat in the glass for 15 minutes. The fruit continued to build and build, making for a spectacular wine. Expensive? Yep. But worth it. 13.5% alc | 97pts
St Hallett — Old Block — Shiraz — 2019 Oh my, this is in a different league. There is so much more intensity to the fruit, and the quality of the winemaking inputs is exemplary. The way the tannins have been polished is quite extraordinary, allowing the fruit to take centre stage while still providing all the textural cues you could hope for in a Barossa shiraz. Coffee, chocolate and plum notes all come to mind, with a hint of forest-floor savouriness. Despite the obvious ripeness in the fruit, this remains remarkably elegant and refined. Lovely now or in 20 years. The sheer depth of this wine saw me elevate the points in the end. Whilst the recommended retail price is $160, this is being heavily discounted around the traps and represents good value. 14.5% alc | 96pts | $160
In any blind tasting, I would expect the likes of Moss Wood and Cullen Wines’ Diana Madeline to shine. And so they did in this tasting. The 2024 Diana Madeline is a contender for Cabernet of the Year, while the 2023 Moss Wood is one of the best I have had the privilege of tasting.
Whilst not quite in the same league, the Battles 2025 Cabernet, made by Lance Parkin, certainly set a cat amongst the pigeons. Here is a wine that sells for $40 from the winery and really delivers the goods.
Battles — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2025 Lovely perfumed aromas that just scream CABERNET. It is ripe, vibrant and packed full of blueberry fruit. The palate is silky and supple, but with an acid and tannin backbone that makes its presence felt, adding structure and depth without overwhelming the fruit. Oak is not a defining feature, rather it adds important texture. This is not the most powerful or intense cabernet we have seen, but it is a delightful drink now with grilled meats, or at any time over the next 10 years. Fruit comes from the Ellens Ridge Vineyard in Wilyabrup. 14.0% alc | 93.5pts | $40
Moss Wood — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2023 A fine, muscular example of cabernet, with the powerful blackcurrant fruit complemented by fine, though firm and structuring, tannins from both fruit and oak. The latter imparts a subtle cedary character that is most attractive. Despite the power and structure, this remains supple and approachable, which is quite an achievement. For me, this wine will be best beyond 2035, given its complexity, power and great length of flavour. 14.0% alc | 97pts | $160
Mount Mary — Quintet — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2023 This was slipped into the blind tasting as a yardstick for the WA wines and, from the outset, it was clear that this was far removed stylistically from Margaret River. It comes across as softer, more fleshy and very finely boned when compared to the more muscular Margaret River wines. The blueberry fruit is the driving factor up front, but then, as the wine lingers on the totally seamless palate, the textural components really start to build. Tannins, acidity and oak are all perfectly balanced, adding gravitas without impeding the fruit. So good now, but sure to age well. A wine that challenges the best producers from Bordeaux at a fraction of the price. A great wine. 13.5% alc | 96+pts | $250
Cullen — Diana Madeline — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2023 Wow, wow, WOW. What a wine. This is powerful, yet supple and so approachable. Not quite silky, but near seamless in the way the fruit flows across the palate. The structure is the secret sauce in this wine, giving life, energy and drive, allowing the fruit to ebb and flow across the finish without ever losing balance or focus. A superb wine on the world stage. 13.5% alc | 97pts
Cullen — Diana Madeline — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2024 This is the most perfect cabernet that I have tasted of late. It stylistically splits the wines in this tasting, carrying more power and structure than some, whilst retaining an approachability that others lack. The fruit is, of course, the star, but it is the way it has been handled in the winery that makes all the difference. The oak is firm and structuring, but adds no overt flavours. The tannins and acidity add depth and energy, but do not impede the fruit in any way. As great as this wine is now, it will be even better in 20 years. 97+pts
There has been a remarkable evolution in Australian cabernet and shiraz over the last three decades. In general, the wines have become ever more polished and refined. There is still great fruit quality and intensity, but the way the tannins and acids are now polished in the winery makes the wines so much more approachable than wines of old.
With improved hygiene, refrigeration and winemaking in general, there is also much greater consistency at all price points.
This is great news for consumers, as we are spoilt for value and choice. This tasting highlighted this with some brilliant wines at a variety of price points.
Happy Days!
Reviewed
Evoi Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. I really like this a lot. The fruit is ripe, but in the more elegant, finer spectrum. There is remarkable depth and intensity, despite the more subtle approach. The palate is a lovely amalgam of blueberry, violet and supple, texturing tannins and oak. With a virtually seamless palate, this is brilliantly made. Delightful now, but better in ten years. 14.0% alc | 95pts | $42.00.
Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2024. OK, so this is a contender for value wine of the year. Beautiful fruit and beautiful winemaking combined in a wine that can be picked up for around $30.00. This is a superb-value wine. The way it balances depth and elegance is remarkable. Berry fruit is ripe and vibrant, but it is the way that it has been married into the oak that makes it quite remarkable. I could not imagine a better-drinking young cabernet, given the seamless nature of the palate. Yet medium-term cellaring will be rewarded with increased complexity. The wine was aged in French oak barriques for 14 months (30% new). 14.5% alc | 94–95pts | $33.00.
Evoi Wines – Malbec – 2020. Structured, powerful, intense and, in some ways, reminiscent of Bordeaux. But there is also ripe fruit that is most attractive. In fact, this is utterly delicious, in a profound sort of way. Something of a Goldilocks wine, as it is just right for current drinking, but also worthy of a decade in the cellar. The oak, fruit tannin and acid management are spot on. A super wine. 14.0% alc | 95pts | $42.00.
Singlefile – The Philip Adrian – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Wow! What a wine. This has all the ripe, vibrant fruit that one would hope for, combined with a degree of power and gravitas, thanks to the texturing oak and finely polished tannins. A wine of clarity and focus. As good as it is today though, this will be so much better with 15–20 years in the cellar, which will allow the fruit to unfold and the secondary characters to add impact. However, if you choose to drink this now, you will not be disappointed. 100% Houghton clone cabernet sauvignon, the wine spent 14 months in French oak barriques (40% new). 14.4% alc | 96pts | $115.00.
Rowe – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2024. This may be my favourite wine of the tasting, given the way it manages to combine delicious approachability with refined structural components. It is not necessarily the best wine, or the most powerful or opulent. Rather, it sits in a lovely middle ground, balancing fine tannins and acidity with subtle berry fruit. 14.0% alc | 95pts | $60.00.
Despite the quality and success of their pinots, following the release of the 2025 vintage, I am convinced that chardonnay is the best wine that Picardy produces. Especially when value comes into the equation.
A New World chardonnay that tips its hat to Burgundy.
Not to be outdone, Singlefile has produced another superb wine with the 2025 Family Reserve Chardonnay. Even more remarkable is the quality of the more affordable Great Southern chardonnay. Delicious, uncomplicated drinking!
Reviewed
Picardy – Chardonnay – 2025. This is a sophisticated wine. Complex and with a degree of richness, yet still with admirable restraint. The length of flavours is outstanding. Stone fruit characters are the key theme running through the wine, with the winemaking influences presenting as a delicious creaminess that runs the length and breadth of the palate, thanks to the high-quality oak and supple lees work. But with air, complex almond and apricot kernel characters really build. A powerful wine that challenges preconceptions about just how good Pemberton chardonnay can be. Great now. Balanced, complex and with a degree of subtlety, this is a New World chardonnay tipping its hat to Burgundy. 13.0% alc | 95.5pts | $65.00.
Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2024. This is altogether more precise and focused, with the stone-fruit notes complemented by complexity-building nutty/mealy components. The pineapple-infused acidity is a core feature of the wine, adding great life and energy. It also serves to cut through the richness on the palate and will be a great asset when it comes to pairing this with food. Excellent length and persistence. A lovely wine now, but one that will be even better in five years. 13.0% alc | 95pts | $72.00.
Singlefile – Family Reserve – Chardonnay – 2025. Another cracking wine and this is, if anything, even finer and more elegant than the last. It has the same quality and intensity; however, here, the white nectarine characters are supported by subtle citrus notes. There is also a degree of minerality that comes through from the acidity. What really sets this apart is the way the fruit continues to build on the palate long after the wine has gone, with cascades of flavours flowing across the palate. The seamless finish rounds out what is a very special wine. But it will benefit from several years in the cellar, as this has been made in a tightly wound style. The fruit was whole-bunch pressed into oak (one-third new, the remainder one year old) from four different coopers for fermentation and then aged for eight months, with some barrels undergoing malolactic fermentation. Weekly bâtonnage was carried out for the first five months. 13.4% alc | 96pts | $65.00.
Singlefile – Great Southern – Chardonnay – 2025. More obvious and straightforward, in a very good way. Here is a well-made, approachable chardonnay that has plenty of varietal characters, with subtle winemaking inputs adding texture and depth. The minerality on the palate is a defining feature and one that is a real addition. That this is not as dense or complex as the others here is not a bad thing at all. It makes for a versatile, approachable wine that is easy to enjoy in a variety of situations. Instantly appealing. The fruit for this wine was picked in three parcels over a two-week period and the wine was aged in Burgundian oak (25% new) for six months, with weekly lees stirring for the first four months. 13.7% alc | 94pts | $35.00.
Every now and then, the panel reviews a wine that defies expectations. Sometimes, this is a very well-renowned wine that fails to impress. And now and then, it is a wine that I am not familiar with that excels.
And rarely, a whole range of wines comes along that knocks my socks off. And so it was with Tenafeate Creek Wines.
When the samples arrived, I had no clue as to the quality, so I quietly slipped them into a few blind tastings over the last few weeks and, each time, the panel was highly impressed by the quality and stunned by the value on offer.
The pinot grigio set the scene with a highly aromatic wine that is delicious and versatile enough to accompany a variety of foods.
But it was the reds that really set the cat amongst the pigeons. The shiraz, cabernet and grenache were all superstars and, at $33/bottle ex-winery, they offer incredible value.
The winery and vineyards are located in the northern Adelaide Hills, in the One Tree Hill district, which borders the Barossa Valley and is only 35 minutes from Adelaide on the way to the Barossa.
The Tenafeate Creek story is a good one. Larry Costa started making wine as a hobby with shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese being made from One Tree Hill vineyards. Today, with Michael Costa at the helm, the focus remains on small-batch, hands-on winemaking, with the reds drawn from One Tree Hill vineyards. The name itself comes from the old Tenafeate Homestead, with “Tenafeate” said to be an adaptation of a Gaelic name meaning “The Whistling House”.
These wines are the value find of the year so far and I can’t recommend them highly enough.
Reviewed
Tenafeate Creek Wines – Pinot Grigio – 2026. Very vibrant and lifted aromatics that leap from the glass. I literally started smelling this when it was 30cm from my nose. Has a touch of colour that is typical of the grape. The palate is zesty and acid-driven, with gentle phenolics adding texture and mouthfeel. Despite the acidity, this remains balanced and highly enjoyable, with textural pear characters and tropical and passionfruit notes building. Served cool on a warm afternoon, this will be great drinking and could easily accompany lighter foods. 12.0% alc | 93pts | $33.00.
Tenafeate Creek Wines – One Tree Hill – Grenache – 2024. I love the vibrant colour of this wine, with its translucent, almost ethereal hue. Very pretty and floral, this has a lot in common with fine pinot noir. Both the nose and palate are packed full of irresistible cherry/plum fruit, with layers of minerality, chocolate, coffee and liquorice coming over the top. Very medium bodied, this is all about the fruit. There has been a minimalistic approach to the winemaking (old oak), which is perfectly in keeping with the fruit. Totally delicious, with one panellist declaring this the best grenache they have tasted this year. If you see this in a wine bar, grab a glass. You won’t be sorry. From a single 35-year-old vineyard in the northern part of the district. 14.5% alc | 95pts | $30.00.
Tenafeate Creek Wines – One Tree Hill – Mataro – 2024. Again, there is great colour here, but the fragrant, pretty fruit has been replaced with a more structured, tannic façade. But underneath, there is a vibrancy to the wine that is most attractive and it is delicious, savoury and gently spiced. Drink it now with a BBQed rib-eye steak or rich lamb shanks and be happy. This wine was given the same winemaking treatment as the grenache, and it is fascinating to compare the two wines side by side, to really get a handle on the varietal differences. 13.5% alc | 93pts | $30.00.
Tenafeate Creek Wines – One Tree Hill – Shiraz – 2023. The vibrancy of this wine in the glass is quite arresting and very beautiful. The first whiff suggests a wine of power and intensity. But there is also a purity to the fruit that is captivating. The palate, however, is where this really shines. There are layers of ripe plum fruit that cascade across a palate that is remarkably refined and near seamless for a wine of such richness. And the structure is a highlight. The key feature for me, however, is the restraint that this wine shows. It makes for an excellent drink today with an eggplant parmigiana, or a wine that will build depth and complexity with extended ageing. Basket pressed and aged in a combination of new and older large oak barrels. 2024 was a very late harvest and the winemaker is suggesting that this is destined to be one of the best vintages of the decade. A great find. 15.0% alc | 96pts | $35.00.
Tenafeate Creek Wines – One Tree Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2024. This is more closed and structured, with the fruit shrouded in a blanket of ever-so-fine tannins. But there is no denying the intrinsic quality on show. The fruit has impressive density, and the seamless palate transition is testament to the skills of the winemaker. But it needs time, lots of time, to show its best. A masterful expression of the sheer power that cabernet can attain. With air, the sweet fruit starts to shine, with densely packed violets coming to mind. Who knew that Adelaide Hills cabernet could be this good! 14.5% alc | 95.5pts | $35.00.
Established in 1973 on what was once a group-settlement dairy farm in Wilyabrup, the estate is part of the original pioneering wave that helped define Margaret River as a world-class fine-wine region. The name relates to a hay shed perched on a rise above the then-pastures, where the wines were originally made.
After a number of ownership changes, the modern interpretation of Hay Shed Hill began in 2006, when winemaker Michael Kerrigan, together with a small syndicate of partners, acquired the vineyards and brand, and began shaping the estate’s wines to reflect his approach to winemaking and the region’s unique characteristics.
Michael is no stranger to Margaret River, having spent more than a decade as winemaker at Howard Park before taking stewardship of Hay Shed Hill. His philosophy is resolutely vineyard-first and proudly indifferent to market fashion. Central to this is the original vineyard, planted between 1973 and 1975, the fruit from which is used to produce the “Block” series.
In addition to the Block series, there are several other ranges:
Vineyard Series: using estate fruit from vineyards planted in 1985
World Series: using grapes from areas outside Margaret River
Pitchfork: the entry-level range
Kerrigan + Berry
The latter refers to Kerrigan’s long-running collaboration with Gavin Berry, chief winemaker at West Cape Howe in the Great Southern. The partnership deliberately sets aside parochial regionalism in favour of a broader Western Australian lens. Fruit is sourced from sites across Frankland River, Mount Barker and Margaret River, with each wine shaped by the shared belief that the best results come from minimal interference and maximum respect for provenance. The arrangement extends to Kerrigan making the wines at West Cape Howe’s facilities, with grapes picked at night to ensure they arrive in perfect condition.
When reviewing a cross-section of wines from the Block, Estate and Kerrigan + Berry ranges, what struck me most was the combination of quality and value on offer — particularly in the chardonnay — especially when you factor in the 20% discount available to “The Palate Room” members. This makes wines such as the Block 6 Chardonnay ($50/$40) and the Hay Shed Hill Chardonnay ($30/$24) outstanding buying.
My focus during this tasting was on chardonnay and cabernet, but the quality-to-value proposition seems to continue across the range, the Kerrigan + Berry Riesling ($30/$24) being a fine example.
Reviewed
Kerrigan + Berry – Riesling – 2025. Such a lovely drink. Floral aromatics lead the way, with orange blossom and gentle zest. The palate possesses an almost magical quality: seamless, supple, gently textured and flooded with elegant fruit. The finish is dry but not remotely austere. A fantastic drink now, though it is also likely to age well in the medium term. Fruit sourced from Mount Barker. 12.0% alc | 95 points | $30
Kerrigan + Berry – Chardonnay – 2025. Very pretty perfumed florals lead the way — hints of star jasmine, orange jessamine, talc and honeysuckle. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with fruit as the clear focus, complemented by the sensitive use of inputs. Free-run juice was barrel-fermented for ten months in oak (30% new), with no lees stirring or malolactic fermentation. Ultimately, this is quite tight and restrained, and is worthy of five years in the cellar to allow the fruit to build further. The acidity is bright and perfectly matched to the fruit. 12.5% alc | 94 points | $40
Hay Shed Hill – Morrison’s Gift – Chardonnay – 2025. Another wine with pretty aromatic fruit, though here the ripe stone-fruit characters take centre stage. The palate is rich, round and supple — quite delicious. You can almost taste the sunshine. Gin Gin clone, eleven months in oak (15% new), with a wild ferment adding further texture. Outrageous value. 12.5% alc | 94 points | $27
Hay Shed Hill – Chardonnay – 2025. A more serious and, ultimately, more powerful rendition of chardonnay, with greater depth and presence. Not as overtly ripe as the Morrison’s Gift, yet more generous than the Kerrigan + Berry — a Goldilocks wine of sorts, sitting in the middle of the range stylistically. A feature for me was the length of flavour, with the fruit lingering for an age. Gentle minerality adds to the package, and the texture is an excellent counterpoint to the fruit. Great value; drink over the next five years. Gin Gin clone, ten months in oak (30% new), no lees stirring or malolactic fermentation, keeping fruit the main focus. 12.5% alc | 94 points | $30
Hay Shed Hill – Block 6 – Chardonnay – 2025. There is a clear step up in intensity here, with the perfumed fruit taking on a more powerful persona, reflected on the palate where the acidity, oak and fruit all have greater presence. At this very early stage it is already drinking brilliantly — do not serve it too cold — but the whole package will really come together with five to ten years in the cellar. Brilliant value, and the wine I would most recommend if you were to try just one. Planted in 1975 with Gin Gin clone, the vineyard has a southerly aspect that helps preserve freshness. As with the other chardonnays, no lees stirring or malolactic fermentation; fermented in barrel (30% new) and aged for ten months prior to bottling. 12.5% alc | 95 points | $50
Kerrigan + Berry – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. The first release of this wine in five years, and it coincides with an excellent cabernet vintage across both Mount Barker and Margaret River. A 50/50 blend of the two regions, the wine spent eighteen months in French oak, 50% new. The fruit quality is outstanding, but it is the way it has been shaped into a serious, powerful wine that makes it stand out. There is a sense of presence and occasion. Quite closed at this early stage of development, the seamless nature of the palate means it can be enjoyed at any point over the next twenty years. I have often loved cabernet blends from these two regions — think Howard Park in years gone by — and this wine serves to reinforce the synergy. 14.5% alc | 95 points | $70
Hay Shed Hill – Block 2 – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. This has the power of the Kerrigan + Berry, but adds a degree of floral opulence to the fruit. On the finish, the tannins are notable for both their intensity and the way they remain supple. The acidity adds drive, whilst the oak adds polish and texture. Needs years, but will be excellent — and it can handle food now. A fine wine indeed. Fruit comes from the original estate plantings of Houghton clone cabernet on the Wilyabrup property; like all the Vineyard Series and Block wines, the vineyard is dry-grown. 14.5% alc | 95 points | $70
Richard Rowe is not a household name when it comes to great Australian wine, but he should be. For more than 50 years, he has been instrumental in crafting some of Australia’s finest wines during stints at wineries including Leasingham, Evans & Tate and KWV.
Rumour has it that, after retiring to the Margaret River region of Western Australia, his children talked him into starting a boutique winery in the region. The results are spectacular.
2024 was the inaugural vintage, and the cabernet is fantastic. As good as the 2024 Karridale Chardonnay is, I prefer the soon-to-be-released 2025 from Wilyabrup.
What is most remarkable is the value these wines offer. At $60 per bottle, they are terrific bargains, especially given the tiny volumes produced.
Please try a bottle and let me know what you think.
Reviewed
Rowe — Gin Gin Clone — Wilyabrup — Chardonnay — 2025 OMG. This is the real deal. Subtle, fine and elegant, yet incredibly powerful and intense at the same time. Ripe stone fruit comes to the fore, while the acidity drives the finish, though it never becomes intrusive. Rather, it confers flashes of pineapple across the palate. A wonderful wine and one that I would love to drink. A bargain. The wine was aged in French oak (30% new). 13.0% alc | 96pts | $60
Rowe — Single Site — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2024 This is something quite special. Whilst the pristine fruit is the main story, it is the silky palate feel that elevates this to the next level. The berry fruit is perfectly ripe and succulent, with the fine acidity acting as a key ally, adding drive and focus along the length of the palate. But it is the finish that earned this wine a gold medal. So fine, elegant and supple, with brilliant texture and a real sense of occasion. Perfumed, fragrant and near seamless.
Fruit comes from the Wiberry Vineyard in Wilyabrup. The wine spent 13 months in oak (30% new) from French cooper Tonnellerie Bossuet. This is a tremendous bargain, especially given the tiny production. 14.0% alc | 96pts | $60
In 2012, Paul Holmes à Court, proprietor of Vasse Felix, acquired an additional Karridale vineyard — one of Margaret River’s most marginal and slow-ripening sub-regions. Sitting close to the ocean and influenced by the Leeuwin Current, it consistently produced chardonnay with unusually high natural acidity and restrained fruit expression. Whilst these qualities were considered challenging for table wine, they proved revelatory for sparkling wine production. Trial bottlings sparked what would become a decade-long preoccupation.
Following Vasse Felix’s acquisition of the former Watershed property in 2018, the stage was set for something more ambitious than an auxiliary sparkling programme. Rather than building production within the existing Vasse Felix portfolio, Holmes à Court chose to create a fully independent sparkling house, with its own purpose-built facility, identity and long-term horizon. That decision gave rise to Idée Fixe — French for a fixed idea, a fixation, or an obsession unlikely to be shaken by practicality or fashion.
A key step in translating that obsession into reality was the appointment of Brendan Carr as senior winemaker at Idée Fixe in early 2023, having previously spent more than a decade as winemaker at Xanadu. A Len Evans Tutorial Scholar and an active national wine-show judge, Carr’s résumé is grounded in fine-tuning detail rather than chasing scale. His role builds on foundational work undertaken by Michael (Mick) Langridge, who had previously led the development of Vasse Felix’s sparkling trials and helped design the Idée Fixe programme.
What Idée Fixe is ultimately trying to achieve is neither imitation nor novelty. The ambition is simply to make a world-class sparkling wine based on Margaret River chardonnay. This means a singular focus on Blanc de Blancs, restraint in dosage, extended time on lees, and an acceptance that success will be measured over decades rather than years.
In that sense, Idée Fixe is less a brand extension than a long-form argument: that Margaret River’s finest chardonnay, grown at its climatic margins and treated with obsessive care, belongs on the global sparkling stage — not as a curiosity, but as a peer.
The culmination of that obsession can be witnessed by visiting the Idée Fixe winery just south of the Margaret River township, where the former Watershed facilities have been transformed into exquisite premises. With the winery completed, the next step was to open the Salon, where visitors can undertake a tutored tasting exploring various facets of sparkling wine production. The cellar door team is led by Hayley Ward, who is as passionate about the venture as anyone in the business. A visit is highly recommended — if only to enjoy a glass of sparkling wine and take in the beautiful vista.
But ultimately, it is all about the wine — and this is where things get really exciting.
Reviewed
Idée Fixe – Brut Rosé – 2023. A stunning copper-tinged pink in the glass. Lifted aromatics define the nose, and the palate is fresh and vibrant with hints of berry fruit. Balance is a highlight, as is the length and persistence of flavour. The dosage at 5 g/l has been perfectly judged, rounding out the chiselled acidity and texturing gentle phenolics. Very approachable and perfect for a warm afternoon on the deck. A blend of 85% chardonnay and 15% pinot noir; 20% of the juice was fermented in older oak (barrels from Vasse Felix), with still pinot noir from the same vineyards blended in. Fruit sourced primarily from younger vines on the Karridale vineyard. Disgorged January 2026; one-third underwent malolactic fermentation. 12.5% alc | 5.25 g/l dosage | $54
Idée Fixe – Premier Brut – Blanc de Blancs. More intensity and power on the nose. Not as overtly generous as the Brut Rosé, but more than compensates with its minerality and intensity of fruit. Aromas of stone fruit, a touch of citrus and hints of sea spray, all complemented by exciting acidity, a well-judged dosage and a sense of purity. A fine wine. Disgorged September 2025; 48% underwent malolactic fermentation; 20% was barrel-fermented in old oak. 12.5% alc | 5.1 g/l dosage | $54
Idée Fixe – Blanc de Blancs – Bernard 96 – 2021. Much greater intensity, rivalling great Champagne in profile. Lemon and gentle autolytic notes tend towards almond and apricot kernel, and the texture profile is superb. There is a degree of richness and power here, whilst the minerality is also turned up a notch. The result, in combination with a lower dosage, is a much more structured and restrained wine that needs a little time in the glass for the fruit to open up — the end result is something quite special. Do not serve it too cold. Disgorged September 2025. 12.5% alc | 3.5 g/l dosage | $78
Idée Fixe – Blanc de Blancs – Davis I10V1 – 2021. A powerhouse. The acid structure is more pronounced and the minerality takes on a chalky character. A fascinating wine that will come into its own when paired with grilled scallops in a lemon-butter sauce — the citrus characters are a defining feature on the palate. A highlight. Disgorged September 2025. 12.5% alc | 4.5 g/l dosage | $78
Idée Fixe – Brut Reserve – Blanc de Blancs – 2019. This goes in a very different direction to the rest of the range. Everything has been pared back, resulting in a subtle, almost delicate expression of Blanc de Blancs. Yet sitting within this elegant façade is a wine of great presence. Overt power is replaced by sheer depth of flavour, and the acidity and minerality combine on the palate in a seamless way, adding layers of texture. This is a wine to sit, sip and ponder, allowing the flavours and textures to build and evolve over time. Primarily made from Davis clone chardonnay; 100% barrel-fermented in old Vasse Felix barrels. Given the cool year, 86% of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation to modulate the acidity. Six years on lees. 12.5% alc | 2.75 g/l dosage | $130
Some days in wine are more remarkable than others. And so it was when John Jens reached out to ask whether he could bring around the new Henschke reds from the 2022 vintage.
To taste the Hill of Grace or Mount Edelstone is a rare treat. To taste them side by side, alongside the Wheelwright and the Hill of Roses, was an extraordinary privilege — and the wines did not disappoint. Whilst the sheer quality was a given, the highlight for me was the subtle variations in style that each vineyard presented.
2022 in the Barossa was a cooler, more finely structured vintage — less powerful and opulent than 2021, and more elegant and precise. This allowed the personality of each wine to express itself with particular clarity.
NB: The wines were not tasted blind, so points are indicative only. After all, who could avoid being influenced when, with the Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone, you know you are about to drink one of the world’s great red wines.
A special thanks to John Jens at Lamonts in Cottesloe for making this tasting possible!
Reviewed
Henschke – The Wheelwright – Shiraz – 2022. The first impression is one of subtlety and precision. There is ripe berry fruit, but it takes on an almost ethereal quality. The palate is a case study in elegance: everything is perfectly in place, supple and near-seamless in the way the fruit transitions along the tongue. The textural components add depth and complexity without ever being obtrusive. The persistence of fruit on the finish is a highlight. This is something of a chameleon — impressive now, yet certain to age beautifully for two decades in the right conditions. With air, the tannins become more impactful and the fruit retreats slightly; if drinking young, give it an hour or two in a decanter. The fine tannins are drying in a positive sense, and the minerality builds. A complete wine. Matured in French oak (10% new) for twenty months. 14.5% alc | 95–96 points | $165
Henschke – Mount Edelstone – Shiraz – 2022. In contrast to The Wheelwright, the Mount Edelstone has far greater initial impact on the nose. There is no escaping the sheer intensity of the ripe, almost opulent fruit. On the palate, a seemingly never-ending cascade of berry and plum flavours floods the tastebuds, whilst the minerality — driven, I suspect, by the acidity — is much more evident. Whilst it appears at first glance barely more than medium-bodied, there is tremendous latent power sitting behind the fruit, with the oak and tannins adding depth, texture and structure as the perfect foil. Stupendous. John Jens suggests this is the greatest Mount Edelstone ever produced. I am not going to argue. Aged for twenty months in French oak (8% new). 14.5% alc | 97 points | $300
Henschke – Hill of Roses – Shiraz – 2022. A completely different expression of Barossa shiraz. Here the oak has been wound right back, and a soaring acidity plays a far greater role in defining the wine, giving it great drive and energy whilst making it relatively unapproachable without food. In twenty years, I am confident this will come into its own — and you can always drink The Wheelwright in the interim. Matured in 100% seasoned French oak casks for twenty months. 14.5% alc | 95 points | $495
Henschke – Hill of Grace – Shiraz – 2022. On the nose, this combines the subtle suppleness of The Wheelwright with the power and sheer depth of the Mount Edelstone. The fruit sits in the just-ripe plum spectrum, tinged with cherry and transitioning to blueberry. Yet nothing could prepare me for the palate. The sheer depth of fruit left me slightly weak at the knees and almost light-headed with delight. Is this the perfect wine? Quite possibly. I could not imagine a more profound wine anywhere in the world. There can be only one Hill of Grace, and I am extremely fortunate to have had the privilege of tasting it. Matured in 100% seasoned French oak casks for twenty months. 14.5% alc | 98–99 points | $1,100
With the cooler weather settling in, it is the perfect time for pinot noir. Last week’s panel tasting presented a number of wines well worth seeking out.
The most surprising wine was Singlefile’s 2024 Run Free Pinot Noir. How a wine of such quality can be sold for $30 is beyond me. The 2024 pinot from Battles is the first release of the variety from this producer, and it is a cracker. And the Picardy and Singlefile Family Reserve pinots showed the more serious side of the variety.
Reviewed
Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2024. Very pretty, ripe cherry fruit — delicious and impactful. I love the way the acidity plays against the fruit, adding energy and drive in conjunction with the fine, supple tannins. The textural components present as much as minerality as they do in the more traditional mouthfeel sense. Excellent length and persistence of flavour. An excellent drink now and over the next five years; the attractive fruit makes this highly approachable. Just as at home with food as it is on its own. 14.0% alc | 94 points | $60.
Battles – Pinot Noir – 2024. The purity here is simply stunning. The fruit is cherry-tinged, but also carries raspberry and blackcurrant notes. The palate is fine and elegant, supported by supple tannins and fine, vibrant acidity. Hints of earthy complexity add to the package, cascading into fine tannins and oak. These characteristics do not dull the fruit, but it is clear that a few years in bottle will see this grow in power and stature. A very fine wine indeed. Fruit comes from the Shepherd’s Hut vineyard in Porongurup. 13.5% alc | 95 points | $40
Picardy – Tête de Cuvée – Pinot Noir – 2023. A lot more structured and powerful. It has the same minerality as Picardy’s estate pinot, but everything has been turned up a notch. The effect is to render this somewhat closed straight out of the bottle — everything is there, but it needs five to seven years in the cellar to really hit its straps. The acidity is the driving force on the finish; and while it does keeps the fruit in check at this early stage, it also adds great drive to the palate. 13.5% alc | $120.
Singlefile – Family Reserve – Pinot Noir – 2024. Whilst the nose is somewhat subdued, the palate bursts to life with pinot goodness. This has the power and intensity you see in the best Central Otago wines, but with more structure supporting the fruit. A powerful wine with cherry-like fruit, spice and supple oak. Excellent purity and depth, with a seamless finish. A fascinating wine to drink now, though it will take another step forward with five to ten years in bottle. Clones 777 and D5V12; eleven months in French oak barriques (30% new). 14.3% alc | 95 points | $65.
Singlefile – Run Free – Pinot Noir – 2024. Surprising structure and power for a wine at this price point, yet the beautifully ripe fruit remains the star. There is weight here, taking on tones of grenache. Despite the power and structure, this remains totally approachable and delivers genuine pleasure right now, or over the next few years. With air, the fruit takes on a degree of plushness that is most captivating. A versatile wine that, like a chameleon, adapts to numerous drinking occasions. Fruit sourced from Mount Barker; matured in oak for approximately nine months. Ridiculous value. 14.2% alc | 95 points | $30
