23rd August 2009

Being a wine nut, I taste a lot of wine each week. The only problem with this is that not all the wine I try is good. We are very lucky living in Australia, as our wine makers are technically competent, and make clean wines.

What does this mean for consumers? If you walk into a bottle shop and chose a wine off the shelf, you are likely to get an inoffensive wine that is entirely acceptable. The trouble starts when you line up 20 new release wines and have to taste them in an hour and a half. While they are likely to be acceptable, many will be dull, colourless and boring. Sound wines? – Yes, exciting wines? – No.

With this in mind, it was with a sense of great anticipation that I approached the vertical tasting of Chapoutier’s Monier de la Sizeranne held by the Wine and Food Society of Western Australia. This was a once in a lifetime chance to try a range of iconic wines from Hermitage in the northern Rhone. What a relief compared to 20 new world sauvignon blancs.

La Sizeranne is Chapoutier’s Hermitage (shiraz), coming from three iconic vineyards – le Meal, les Bressards and les Greffieux. It was fascinating to see how the wine varied from year to year, and also to compare the wine to others from the Chapoutier stable. We started with a trifecta of great years – 1988, 1989 and 1990. We then tried the 1992, 1993, 1995 and 2005. For good measure we also had the 1993 and 2006 Cote Rotie as well as the 2006 St Joseph and Crozes Hermitage.

The wines varied quite significantly with the vintage, with consensus that the 1990 was a truly great wine. There was also strong support for the 1988, 1995 and 2005. The highlight for many though was the 2006 Cote Rotie. A sensational wine with a very long future and a relative bargain at $110 per bottle. The 2006 Crozes Hermitage was the value pick for the tasting, with succulent fruit and a price under $50.

As to the food, modesty prevents me from commenting on the fantastic meal, as I did the cooking.

A special thanks to Michael Tamburi from La Vigna and Matt Holden from Fine Wine Wholesalers for helping to source the wines. If you are interested in trying Chapoutier’s wines, then the team at La Vigna may be able to help.

So to the wines…

Chapoutier – La Sizeranne – Hermitage – 1988 (18.2). A complex leathery nose with earthy characters, a touch of smoke and cigar box. A touch of volatility adds interest on a palate that was soft, round and subtle. Good acid freshens the finish. This continued to freshen over many hours and is a delightful drink.

Chapoutier – La Sizeranne – Hermitage – 1989 (16.8). Surprisingly fresh with bright red currant fruit. Spice and plum with a touch of volatility. The fresh fruit is apparent on the palate, but the wine is very angular. Tannins dominate the finish. I wonder if this bottle is typical, as there should be greater depth to the fruit.

Chapoutier – La Sizeranne – Hermitage – 1990 (18.7). What a beautiful wine! There is a lovely perfumed nose of violet and cinnamon spice. The perfumed fruit continues on the palate with gorgeous mouth feel balance and length. Textured and alive, this is a great example of shiraz from a cooler region.

Chapoutier – La Sizeranne – Hermitage – 1992 (17.8). A subtle wine that leads with spices and violets. The palate is textured, vibrant and long, but the finish is just a little lean. Continued to improve for some time in the glass. Lacks the complexity of the 1990, but it is a very pretty wine that is drinking now.

Chapoutier – La Sizeranne – Hermitage – 1993 (16). From one of the worst years in memory. Green fruit characters dominate the nose and palate. It is actually quite long, with spicy fruit and a satisfying finish, but the Cote Rotie from the same year was much better.

Chapoutier – La Sizeranne – Hermitage – 1995 (18). Lovely nose of chocolate, coffee beans and cedar. A touch of spice too. Classic white pepper on the palate with spice to close. A textured wine that is all about structure. I wonder if the fruit will survive the tannins.

Chapoutier – La Sizeranne – Hermitage – 2005 (18.5). Perfumed, essence of shiraz. Some raspberries and blackcurrant to close. A touch of crushed ants. The ripe fruit coats the palate and peppery fruit dominates the finish. Excellent oak integration and fine tannins. Quite seamless and lovely structure. Continued to evolve and open for many hours.

Chapoutier – Cote Rotie – 1993 (17.5). A great effort from one of the worst years in memory. It is complex, spicy and fresh. The palate is complex and spicy with acid that is still fresh. Cardamom and leather round out the finish with sour cherries to close. A light wine but a good drink.

Chapoutier – Les Becasse – Cote Rotie – 2006. (18.6). This wine has it all. Complex and really deep smelling, there is a gamut of fruit flavours ranging from fresh plums through to prunes with currants and red fruits. Tremendous length and fruit weight on the palate, with superb use of oak. A touch of crushed ants to close, this is seamless and has text book mouth feel and structure. A great wine that is a joy to drink now, but will be even better in 10-15 years.

Chapoutier – Deschants – Saint Joseph – 2006 (17). Fresh and vibrant, this is all about the fruit. Pepper, spice and sour cherry fruit. This is long, vibrant and supple. Drinking really well over the next few years.

Chapoutier – Les Meyonniers – Crozes Hermitage – 2006 (17.5). Richer and with greater texture than the Deschants. Spicy fruit with a touch of white pepper. Oak provides structure and is well used. Good drinking and the best value wine in the tasting. A great entry into shiraz from the northern Rhone.