27th September 2009

The start of school holidays coincided with this month’s tasting, which saw a much smaller turnout than normal. Myles Beaman gave us the theme of Spanish wine, and kindly hosted the tasting. I was surprised at the number of excellent wine regions in Spain. Typically, I think of Rioja and Sherry as being the most well known wines, but when I looked into the regions, there are many that I recognize and admire. Follow the link to decanters web site for an excellent map of the regions.

The regions with the greatest reputations are Rioja and Ribera del Duero. Tempranillo (Tinto Fino) is the most important grape grown in each region. In Rioja, blending partners include grenache (garanche), graciano and mazuelo. In Ribera, besides tempranillo, the grapes permitted in the blend include cabernet sauvignon, merlot, malbec and grenache.

The wines of Rioja and Ribera del Duero have four different levels, which (in theory) relate to quality. Each level has minimum requirements that must be met to use the name.

• Joven – Typically unoaked
• Crianza – Minimum aging of one year in oak and one year in bottle
• Reserva – Minimum aging of one year in oak and two years in bottle
• Grand Reserva – Minimum of two years aging in oak and a further three years in bottle

Myles kept to the theme with dinner and presented some very authentic Spanish fare that helped soak up some of the wine. It must be said that the food was fantastic and complemented the wine beautifully.

Tasted

Alvaro Palacios – Dofi – Priorat – 1999 (18.5). A blend of grenache, shiraz, cabernet and merlot. Wow, very complex, with aged characters, leather, spice and sweet fruit. This evolved in the glass and was really compelling. The earthy leathery characters continued on the palate, but did not dominate. Opened with cherries and anise fruit on a fine and quite seamless structure. Great drinking.

Pingus – Flor de Pingus – 2001 (18). Very leathery and starting to show some developed characters on the nose. It is the palate that is really stunning. Silky fruit floods the palate, with a long seamless finish. There are a lot of earthy and barnyard characters. We all loved it, but the style may challenge Australian shiraz lovers.

Borsao – Tres Picos – Garancha – 2007 (17.7). Wow, this is impressive. Ripe, clean and fresh, the nose opens with plum, grapefruit, sour cherries and a slight medicinal character. The palate is dense, textured and layered, with licorice and a touch of menthol. Would do well with food. (May polarize, but worth a try).

Pesquera – Reserva – Ribera del Duero – 1998 (17.5). Interesting nose of leather and spice. The spicy characters continue on the long and savoury palate. Quite linear.

Telmo Rodrigues – Lanzaga – Rioja 2006 (17.3). Very closed and dense with ribena and licorice notes to start. The palate is dusty and fine with some licorice fruit. While the oak is apparent now, it does not intrude. A very silky palate suggests this will evolve well over the next five or more years.

Sierra – Cantabria – Crianza – Rioja – 2004 (17.2). Quite delicious wine, with appealing savoury fruit. The palate displays plums, leather and some earthy characters. Complex, long and fine. (100% Tempranillo).

Baltasar – Calatayud – Vinas Viejas – Garanche – 2003 (17)). Fresh fruit and maraschino cherries on the nose. This is a big wine. With textured plummy fruit, licorice, all-spice and leather. There are savoury tannins and oak that serve to shut down the fruit.

Vasse Felix – Tempranillo – 2007 (16.9). Fresh and clean, with ripe red berries, licorice and a touch of leather. There is sweet ripe fruit on the palate that is relatively simple. Very modern.

Marques de Velila – Crianza – Ribera del Duero – 2001 (16.8). Developed characters of leather and earth on the nose. The palate is quite peppery with sweet fruit under a supple leathery surface. Fine tannins, but lacks the depth of fruit of the better wines here.

Cosme Palacio Y Hermanos Crianza – Rioja – 1998 (16.5). Appears quite old. Lovely mouth feel, but leathery fruit faded. (Had been decanted several hours before).