11 April 2010

What is happening at Houghon? After praising the 2008 Cabernet a few weeks back, it was the shiraz’s turn to shine. This is another brilliant bargain. This would be a good wine at $20. The fact that it is discounted to $8 is hard to imagine.

I get the impression that the marketing department dictates how much wine is needed for the premium labels from Houghton, Brookland Valley and Hardy’s. In good years like 2008 the rest of the premium fruit gets funnelled into the cheaper wines in the portfolio. This is great for the consumer, but must be heartbreaking for the winemakers/viticulturalists.

Not to be outdone, Peter Lehmann has released a sensational shiraz from 2008. This is a serious shiraz at any price, but should be discounted below $15 per bottle. There will be a few boutique producers who would be pleased if they could sell this as their premium wine. I will be putting some in my cellar!

Finally, a word on corks versus screw caps. The Eight Songs unfortunately suffered from random bottle oxidation courtesy of its cork. I was also interested to see the Voyager showing less well than previously. Screw caps are not perfect, but the bad bottles are few and far between.

Reviewed

Peter Lehmann – Shiraz – 2008 (18). Dense, with some plum, cedar and cigar box. Intriguing and enticing, but is quite closed and reserved right now. The palate is big, rich and ripe with some chocolate/berry notes. The vibrant fruit has absorbed some quality oak with ease. This is textured, dense and well proportioned. Quite seamless and has excellent palate length. Shows the characters of a warmer region. A true bargain at $15.

Castelli – Shiraz – 2008 (17.5). Dense nose, with lifted fruit. Think cherries, and briary dark fruits. Dusty oak is not intrusive and will further integrate. The palate is also dense and has excellent line and length. The fruit is in the chocolate spectrum. The fruit and oak tannins are a touch firm now, but this will settle.

Houghton – Shiraz – Stripe Range – 2008 (17.2). Really quite dense and deep smelling. The fruit starts off shy, but quickly opens up with a bit of pepper and spice. A couple of years will allow this to build. The palate is refined, silky, supple and succulent. Excellent winemaking has built on good quality fruit. This is not the most complex wine, but it is extraordinary value.

Voyager – Shiraz – 2008 (17.2). Closed. The fruit is just a bit flat at the moment and needs a month or two to settle down. The palate is the same in that it is very closed. Opens up to build rich, chocolate and fruit characters with black pepper. Will score higher points in a year or two and will improve for 5+ years.

Voyager – Shiraz – 2007 (17). Cooler notes on this, with some herbal notes. There is also a touch of menthol. The palate is also quite lean, but well balanced. (We reviewed this previously and gave it much higher points. We love screw caps, but they are not perfect.)

Chapoutier – St Joseph – Deschants – 2006 (17). Lifted and quite floral fruit. The palate is simple at the start but well structured, with some varietal berry characters coming back on the finish. Really improved with a few hours on the bench, and will score higher points in a few years.

d’Arrenberg – Grenache – Nostalgia – Rare – NV (17). Complex rancio notes with raisins and Christmas pudding. Cognac-like aromas, but not too much spirit on the nose. Nectar like in the mouth and great viscosity suggesting some bottle age. A touch spirituous to close, but very complex. (A fortified wine).

Houghton – Shiraz Temperanillo – The Bandit – 2008 Screw Cap (16.8). A touch old fashioned on the nose with some earthy/leathery notes. There is plenty of ripe fruit and texture, and the oak is subdued and balanced. Should come into its own with food.

Pemberley – Shiraz – 2004 (16.8). Solid wine with ripe fruit. Nothing flashy, just an enjoyable drink.

Hewitson – Shiraz – Ned & Henry’s – 2008 (16.5). Surprisingly shows some cooler fruit characters on the nose with some herbal notes. Plenty of pepper on the palate, but could do with more fruit richness. May be a bad bottle?

James Oatley – Shiraz – Tic Tok – 2008 (16.5). Chocolaty fruit with dense plum and spice. The warmer region’s fruit shows through but without the density of fruit of the very best. Probably good value.