20 December 2010

Saltram is a winery with a history dating back to 1859. Many years ago this was bought by the big companies and is now a part of the Fosters empire. Importantly, in the mid 2000s, with Nigel Dolan as chief winemaker, there was a move back to 100% Barossa fruit and a real focus on quality. I have always been a fan of the No 1, and whilst inconsistent, the Mamre Brook Range has delivered value from time to time.

The current tasting featured a quartet of shiraz based wines from Saltram and the results were impressive. For me the 2006 No 1 came out on top, a whisker ahead of the Mamre Brook 2008. What the Mamre lacked in sheer density, it made up for with a vibrancy of fruit that was captivating. When you consider that the 2006 No 1 has an rrp of $77, the Mamre Brook is a bargain at under $30. On their own, all of the Saltram wines will impress!

Finally, the Drakesbrook shiraz was enjoyable and very approachable and good value at $18 RRP.

Tasted

Saltram – Shiraz – No 1 – 2006 (18.5). Quite pretty initially. Really deep smelling, with both red and black fruits with a touch of plum. Wow, the fruit on the palate is impressive. This is only medium bodied (for a Barossa shiraz), but the power and intensity of the fruit are excellent. Redcurrant fruit characters dominate the palate and the finish is long and silky. As this opened up, the power of the fruit really shone, whilst there was excellent line and length on a seamless finish.

Saltram – Shiraz – Mamre Brook – 2008 (18.3++). Impressive nose that is vibrant and alive. This is complex, dense and really draws you in to the glass. The inky palate matches the colour. The concentration of fruit is outstanding, but this is restrained and very fine. There are hints of chocolate, pepper, spice and quality oak, but all add to the superb mouth-feel. Licorice and mocha notes to close. For a wine of such power, this is incredibly elegant and silky. Will develop more complexity with age.

Saltram – Shiraz – The Journal – 2006 (18+). A very stylish wine of subtleness and complexity. Forward and fresh fruit on the nose. The palate is bright and forward to start, but quality shiraz fruit dominates the finish. Excellent length and mouth-feel make the finish very enjoyable and very elegant. Some plum on the peppery fruit to close. This wine took several days to show its best.

Saltram – Shiraz/Tempranillo – Winemakers Selection – 2008 (17.8+). Closed and restrained. The palate has layers of dense fruit with chocolate overtones. The power of the fruit is impressive and the texture/mouth-feel. are a highlight. This coats the tongue with silky fruit, and there are plums and white pepper to close. The tannins are very fine and the oak, while obvious, is harmonious and adds to the wine. Give it time.

Ferngrove – Shiraz – Dragon – 2008 (17.5). The purple colour is impressive. Some earthy notes to start, but the nose is quite seductive. Fresh fruit on the palate, with strawberries, currants, pepper and a touch of spice. Not the same depth of fruit as the best here, but has good quality fruit and decent length on the finish. Very well made and good drinking.

Drakesbrook – Shiraz – 2009 (17). Fragrant and lifted fruit develops on the nose. This is fresh and juicy. The palate is flooded with ripe fruit. There is a mass of dark fruits and a touch of forest floor. The oak/tannins are a touch grippy now, though the length is very good. Not as complex as the best hear, but a lovely fruit driven wine that will be good drinking over the next 5 or so years.

Woodside Valley Estate – Shiraz – Bonnefoy – 2008 (17). Unusual nose. There is cedar, menthol, and even a touch of camphor. The palate is similar, with textured mouth-feel. and silky tannins that finish with a touch of grip. Good fruit, but unusual in an almost old world style. Is good drinking, and received strong support from one panel member.

Barking Owl – Shiraz/Viognier – 2009 (16.8). Cooler fruit notes on a firm and structured nose that developed some red fruits with air. There is fragrant and floral fruit on the palate with a touch of pepper and plummy fruit on the finish. The tannins are firm and plentiful.

Talisman – Shiraz – 2009 (16.8). Forward fruit. There is a touch of white pepper on the nose. The palate is firm, yet well balanced. Very well made and quite silky on the palate. Not a blockbuster, but very enjoyable.

Millbrook – Shiraz/Viognier – 2007 (16.5+). Again, not offering much on the nose. The palate starts off lean and firm, but develops dense chocolate fruit over time. Should improve over time (and score higher points).

Angove – Shiraz/Viognier – Nine Vines – 2009 (16.5). Pretty and forward aromas on the nose suggestive of the addition of viognier. A touch of apricot confirms this. The stonefruit notes are there on the palate, but there is a lack of depth to the fruit on the palate. A touch candied on the finish, this is a good commercial wine and good value.

Plantaganet – Shiraz – Omrah – 2007 (16.4). Pretty fruit again here. There is a touch of pepper to the bright fruit characters. The palate is elegant and juicy, with a touch of stewed plum on the close. Not so complex, but will carry food well.

Red Truck – Shiraz – 2008 (16). Aiming to recreate the success of the Red Truck wines in the US, this is the Australian made version made by Cheviot Bridge. Soft and plummy, with rounded fruit notes, this is a sound commercial wine.