Reviewed – 30 June 2011

Ten years ago, a shiraz tasting would have consisted of wines from the Barossa, with a few Clare Valley and McLaren Vale wines thrown in for good measure. How times have changed. Whilst South Australia was well represented, this tasting had wines from NSW, Victoria and several from Western Australia.

The standout feature was the fact that most of the wines had ripe fruit without being over-ripe or overtly alcoholic. Elegance and finesse were the order of the day.

There were several excellent wines, with the Wisdom and Filsell being great examples of quite different styles. Why Grant Burge persists with a cork for the Filsell is beyond me. For this reason, the Harewood is the one to try. At around $30, it is a lovely wine.

Reviewed

Grant Burge – Shiraz – Filsell – 2009 (18.5). Lovely hue. This is vibrant and big. Dark fruits with hints of forest floor, leather and tar. The depth to this wine is amazing, and the palate is outstanding. Dense, ripe, high quality (old vine) fruit that shows licorice and spice. This is a big wine, but it is perfectly balanced. Excellent length and good texture. Has absorbed the quality oak with ease. Will cellar for 10+ years, cork permitting.

Leasingham – Shiraz – Bin 61 – 2008 (18.2). Tight, but obvious quality here. Dense, closed and shy. The palate has very high quality fruit that is savoury, with hints of plum and spice. The oak and fruit tannins are fine, tight knit and firm. The length is prodigious, but this needs ten years to show its best.

Harewood Estate – Shiraz – 2008 (18+). Bright red fruit here. Lively and vibrant, this is a succulent wine. Not much fruit on show initially, but this is a wine of some appeal. Really builds intensity with air. The quality of the fruit is outstanding. Ripe red fruits with fresh plum and mocha. Very long. The fine, almost chalky tannins dominate the finish, so give it time and watch it blossom.

Houghton – Shiraz – Wisdom – 2009 (18+). Savoury. Lovely intense blueberry and black fruits, with a touch of vanillin oak lift. Medium bodied and savoury, this has slightly chewy tannins and peppery fruit, though the finish is silky. Very good length and concentration from a wine that suggests a cooler region. Lovely mouth-feel and texture to what is a really pretty wine. (This was even better the next day).

Turkey Flat – Shiraz – 2007 (18). Tar, leather, plum and spice combined with licorice and mocha notes. Very savoury palate with all the earthy notes coming through. Very long and dense, this is a stylish wine of real pedigree. It is more in the style of a northern Rhone wine than a big Australian, but this will age well in the medium term. This developed further richness with air.

Angove – Shiraz – 125th Anniversary – 2009 (17.9). The first wine to have a touch of stewed plum to the fruit characters. This comes through on the palate too. A traditional style that has some older vine fruit. Opulent and big, this has many facets to it. Chocolate, leather and earthy notes combine well with the soft, plummy fruit. Big, ripe, soft and opulent though with some restraint. Vanillin oak to close.

Cape Mentelle – Shiraz – 2009 (17.8). Vibrant and forward. Lifted redcurrant and cranberries with a hint of candy. The palate is also vibrant and lively, with plenty of peppery fruit through the middle of the palate. Long and savoury, there is quality, fine grained French oak to close. A smart wine that is a good each-way bet.

Marchand & Birch – Shiraz – 2009 (17.7). Very dense fruit. The quality here is without question. Chocolate, coffee, cinnamon, cedar. The oak is closing down the fruit now, but with time, this will blossom. Stylish wine, with a silky finish and excellent length. Be patient!

Mad Fish – Shiraz – Sideways – 2009 (17.6). Pretty fruit here. Lifted ripe red fruits on the nose. The palate is long, fine and savoury. Near seamless, with a lovely mouth-feel. Very fine tannins and silky oak. An easy wine to like.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Haycutters – 2008 (17/17.5). Much more savoury and elegant fruit. Actually quite pretty. Delicate red fruits. The palate is flooded with sweet fruit, though there is a souring finish that adds freshness. Easy to drink now or in 5 years. Gets extra points for being the best drinking wine in the tasting.

Peccavi – Shiraz – 2008 (17.2). Dense and fleshy fruit. Yes there are plum aromas, but there is a whole lot more. The palate shows plum and cedar. Nice mouth-feel, fine tannins and good length make for a quality wine. Has obvious cool climate characters and drinks well. Just needs a touch more mid-palate fruit weight to get higher points.

Whiz Bang – Shiraz – 2009 (17). Sweeter fruit on the nose. Cherry, Satsuma plum and cedar/spicy notes. The fruit on the palate is great fun. Big, rich and ripe, with a touch of alcohol showing through on the finish. A crowd pleaser that is really juicy and succulent. Not as structured as some, but good drinking. (Made by Angove).