Reviewed – 18 August 2011

Penfolds is a very significant name in Australian wine, making a wide array of wines at every price point. The quality of wines like Grange and 707 needs no introduction, but it is the wines at the bottom of the price scale that I want to talk about.

The cheaper range looks something like this: Rawsons Retreat – Koonunga Hill – Thomas Hyland – Bin wines.

Last week, I reviewed the Rawsons Retreat cab/shiraz as an excellent quaff but the other wines in the range are quite different in style. Even at the Koonunga Hill level, (shiraz in this case), the wines are obviously Penfolds. There is quality fruit and that trademark oak handling. It must drive the winemakers mad to see a wine that has been so well made being sold for well under $10. This is a wine that could do with a few years in the cellar!!!

It is the Thomas Hyland that really stands out for me though. This is a ripper, with quality fruit, oak and winemaking. The quality of the 2009 vintage in South Australia must have been excellent, because there are at least 5 layers of shiraz above this in the Penfolds stable, and some of this fruit could easily have slotted in to the Bin wines.

A couple of other noteworthy wines. The Marmaduke is also a bargain, the wines from The Lane are super fine and elegant, and the Xabregas is nothing short of a star. Paul Hogan and the team at Xabregas are in brilliant form, as this follows on from their stunning 2010 rieslings, which were amongst the best rieslings I tried last year.

And so to the wines…

Reviewed

Xabregas – Shiraz – 2009 (18.5). Wow, fine white pepper here. Classic cool climate shiraz that is very fine and refined. Impressive length and excellent structure to the silky fruit. The quality of the fruit is outstanding, and the winemaking is spot on. Fragrant and perfumed, with excellent mouth-feel and texture. This is a beautiful wine that, while lovely now, will benefit from at least 5 years in the cellar. The sheer drinkability of this wine saw it bumped up to a gold medal.

The Lane – Shiraz – Block 14 – 2010 (18.2). Now this is a lovely wine. Fragrant and spicy fruit that has real quality. The fruit is vibrant, perfumed and a touch racy, with lovely white pepper to close. This is refined, long and serious. The balance is spot on and the textural components are a treat. The nose and the palate are subdued by fine oak and silky tannins at present, but everything is in place for the future. This took a couple of days to show its best, so if you are going to drink it now, give it some air.

Penfolds – Shiraz – Thomas Hyland – 2009 (17.6). Serious, quality fruit on display. An attractive nose displaying licorice, spice and sweet fruit. This is from a warmer region, but it is in no way overblown. Lovely plum notes, with chocolate and cedary spice to close. Impressive length and texture to what is a quality wine. This was even better the next day. (I saw this on special last week for under $13, so back up the truck!)

Windows Estate – Shiraz – Basket Pressed – 2008 (17.5+). Intriguing. Herbal notes along with red fruits and hints of licorice. Very peppery and spicy fruit on the palate, with vibrant red berries and a touch of cedar to close. Impressive length, the silky oak closes down the back palate right now, but this is an attractive wine of some appeal.

The Lane – Shiraz – Block 5 – 2009 (17.5). Plum and spice on a focused nose. Medium weight fruit that is light, fresh and quite pretty. Not immediately obvious, this is a delicate and fine wine with a hint of chocolate to the red fruit characters. Impressive balance and length. Will be even better in a couple of years.

Cape Mentelle – Shiraz – Marmaduke – 2009 (17.5). A slightly dusty nose that took some time to open up. A shy wine that is firm at present. Has some peppery fruit. Opens to show savoury, spicy fruit of real quality, with excellent oak handling. Impressive length and depth to what is a stylish wine. I do not recall this wine being a straight shiraz before, but it is a ripper. Would benefit from cellaring for a few years and is great value.

Hardys – Shiraz – Oomoo – 2009 (17.2). The colour here is tending to purple around the edge. Seductive nose with ripe plum and cinnamon to the fore. The palate is supple and really spicy. Impressive length in a medium bodied wine. Great value current drinking.

d’Arenberg – Shiraz – The Love Grass – 2008 (16.9). Typical d’Arenberg shiraz fruit. The wine is not bad, but the name??? Cellar door only.

Penfolds – Shiraz – Koonunga Hill – 2009 (16.9). Opens with pleasant, plummy fruit in an easy, approachable package. Do not be fooled though, this has enough structure to warrant a couple of years in the cellar.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2010 (16.8). Lovely mix of ripe shiraz fruit and candied, vanillin oak aromas. Spice, and redcurrant fruit on the palate with hints of plum and licorice. Only medium bodied and not particularly dense, this is a good drink. (Tasted twice).