A Boot-full of wine – Tasting notes from Italy
Excellent Current Releases
Brunello do Montalcino is an appellation in the southern part of Tuscany, south of Sienna, around the picturesque hilltop town of Montalcino. The tradition of Brunello goes back a relatively brief hundred or so years, with the family and firm of Biondi-Santi associated with its inception. The number of companies has ballooned however, to include over 200 producers now.
The wine is made from 100% Brunello, or Sangiovese Grosso grapes (a clone or group of clones of Sangiovese). Traditionally the wines were aged in large Slavonian oak butts for the requisite 3 years, though more and more, the use of smaller French oak barriques is becoming the norm. Commonly, some Brunello is aged in larger oak casks, some in smaller barriques, and then later blended. Often producers will make 2 levels of Brunello – a ‘normal’ Brunello, and a Riserva from the best parcels of grapes. Very occasionally, if not up to standard in poor vintage conditions, the designated Brunello can be reclassified as a Rosso di Montalcino, though usually the Rosso di Montalcino is an earlier drinking, less oaked, less extracted, and often delicious manifestation of Sangiovese Grosso.
At a recent tasting of current release Brunelli, I had the opportunity to sample 11 wines. That I have chosen to highlight eight of them indicates both the high quality level of wines at the tasting, and of Brunello in general. I have a confession to make – I love these wines, and they represent a different beast altogether to other incarnations of Sangiovese such as Chianti Classico. Most usually require bottle aging for 10 years at least in order to reveal their full tasty potential. The wines were tasted alphabetically by producer, and are presented so.
Reviewed
Altesino – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (18). Cherries but also blackberries, leather and chocolate. Persistent and balanced. 18 pts. 44 Euro
Banfi – Brunello – Poggio All’Oro– DOCG Riserva – 2004 (18.5). An early whiff of sulphur which soon blew off. A baby – long, tannic, tangy acid, complex. 18.5 pts. 84 Euro
Cupano – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG – 2004 (17.75). The nose was a bit muted but the palate sang, with fresh dark red fruit and a savoury undertow. 17.75 pts. 84 Euro
Pacenti Franco-Canalicchio – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (18.25). Acid, tannins, fruit in fine balance. Complex and long. 18.25 pts 47 Euro
Piancorello – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (18.5). Incredible depth to the fruit with blackberry and raspberry, violets, and spicy anise. 18.5 pts. 46 Euro
Il Poggione – Brunello di Montalcino – I Paganelli – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (18.7). Complex with excellent persistence of aromas and flavours. Hints of chocolate and leather. 18.7 pts 59 Euro (For the record, the Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2008 is a cracker – providing the essence of Sangiovese unsullied by oak – 18 pts, 14 Euro)
Poggio di Sotto – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (19). Almost indescribable – wonderful length and complexity – and one would expect so at this price. 19 pts. 130 Euro
Tenuta di Sesta – Brunello di Montalcino – DOCG Riserva – 2004 (17.75). Again began a touch sulphurous, but later a solid example of Brunello, suffering somewhat for having been tasted after the Poggio di Sotto. 17.75 pts. 44 Euro
I should add that my favourite Brunello producer, Uccelliera, was not represented at this tasting.
As can be seen, there is a range of prices for Brunello, but these producers represent excellent quality and hence value for money.
Ciao again!!
Brendan Jansen