A Boot – Full of Wine

Tasting Notes From Italy

by

Dr Brendan Jansen

Carmignano

I will devote this column to the small appellation of Carmignano. Carmignano is the Tuscan appellation closest to where we are living in Prato. This is a small appellation and it had to fight for its inclusion in the DOCG scheme of things. The fight was won in 1975. Before that, Carmignano was subsumed under the Chianti Montalbano region.

The wines in the Carmignano area had a reputation for depth and longevity dating back 7 centuries (at that time, 100% Sangiovese). Carmignano is unique in that its wines are now a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc and/or Cabernet Sauvignon. The French varietals have been used in Carmignano blends long before the advent of the so-called “Super Tuscans” (which probably began with Tignanello, of the Antinori stable, in 1971).

Legend has it that, as the power of the ruling Medici Dukes was waning in the late 17th Century, they married into the French royal family. The French naturally brought their own grape varieties along with them to Italy – these have now been shown to be Cabernet Franc in the main, and Cabernet Sauvignon – and planted them alongside Sangiovese in the Tuscan countryside, most especially around the Carmignano area.

The power that the Medici family wielded, and the length of time they were in power, is truly amazing. The Tuscan countryside around Florence is dotted with large Medici villas, some of which have been restored to reflect their former glory.

Every year there is a festival of Carmignano wine in Prato – I Vini Profumi – The Perfumed Wines, and naturally I attended. Most of the 20 odd producers of the Carmignano district exhibited their wines, with a separate guided tasting by an Italian Association of Sommeliers representative. I include my tasting notes on the pick of the bunch. You will see that Cabernet Franc has given way to Cabernet Sauvignon, and its old stable-mate Merlot, in the wines below.

Two final words. Firstly, just like in the coastal region of Bolgheri (home of Sassicaia and Ornellaia), some of Carmignano’s Bordeaux blends are gaining a better reputation in the international wine media than their Sangiovese-Cabernet counterparts. Whether this relates to greater palate familiarity I am unsure.

Finally, in the Carmignano region, most producers produce a Barco Reale. This is usually their basic ‘house’ wine. (Barco Reale literally means the wall or fence around the Medici property.) Whilst at one time these wines were generally un-oaked, these days most spend about 6 months in oak. I find these wines amongst the best bargains in Tuscany. In Italy, unlike Australia, wine is considerably cheaper when bought directly from the cantina or winery. The grape blends used in Barco Reale are similar to other wines from Carmignano, and I have picked up Barco Reale bargains for as little as 5 Euros. When the weather starts to cool, these wines will be my quaffers. I am unsure if you can track any down in Australia, and what they might cost, but if you see a bottle, it might be worth a try – for curiosity’s sake!

On to the tasting…

Colline San Biagio – Carmignano – DOCG – 2005 (16). This is a blend of 70% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. Oak dominated this wine, whose fruit was a touch muted. There was good tannic structure and adequate acidity.

Mauro Vannucci – ‘Il Sasso’ – IGT – 2006 (16). This is an IGT wine but with the same varieties and proportions of the DOCG above – they are from different producers I should stress. This was a big wine. Toasty bacon (probably an oak influence) with slight vegetal characters (from Cabernet?) led to a somewhat hot finish (Its label says it is only 13% alcohol).

Villa Medicea – Carmignano – Riserva – DOCG – 2004 (17.25). Made from 75% Sangiovese, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Canaiolo, this wine displayed the classical perfumed nose, with stewed dark fruit on the palate, a nice mouth-feel with good supporting acid and tannins.

Pratesi – Carmignano – Riserva – DOCG 2006 (17.5). Another big wine but in which all elements are well balanced. It a 70%/20%/10% mix of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Had some savoury elements within its ample fruit flavours, which I enjoyed.

Tenuta Pierazzuoli – Le Farnete – Carmignano – DOCG – 2005 (18). The 20% cabernet sauvignon component was immediately discernible by the presence of cassis and herbal notes on the nose, but on the palate the sangiovese dominated with cherries and plums. There was a touch of elegance to the wine.

Ambra – Carmignano – Riserva – Elzana – DOCG 2004 (18.25). This blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet was most impressive for its length, not to mention its structure and elegance. A thoroughly well made wine with dark fruit elements in perfect balance with oak, tannins and acid. Will age well for 7+ years.