Chianti Classico

A Boot-Full of Wine – Tasting Notes from Italy

By Dr Brendan Jansen

18 October 2009: This week’s article is on Chianti Classico. The name refers to a largish zone in Tuscany, within which, if certain standards are met, a wine may be given the same name. The main grape in Chianti Classico is Sangiovese (70-100%), but other varieties such as Canaiolo, Colorino, Malvasia Nera (up to 10%) are also used. Small amounts of other varieties such as Cabernet, Merlot, and even Shiraz may be added (up to 20% only), but since 2006, no white grape varieties are permitted in Chianti Classico.

Chianti Classico is but one subregion in Chianti; the others being Chianti Colli Sinesi, Chianti Colli Fiorentini, Chianti Rufina, Chianti Montalbano, Chianti Montespertoli, Chianti Colli Aretini, Chianti Colline Pisane. (“Colli” means “hills”, so Chianti Colli Sinesi refers to Chianti made around the hills of Sienna, for example.)

The Chianti Classico region lies between Florence and Sienna, with about a 50/50 split between the 2 provinces. You may be familiar with the black cockerel found on the certification tag on every Chianti Classico bottle’s neck. Legend has it that to settle one of many disputes between Florence and Sienna, a horse race was organised. Both kingdoms had to select their fastest horse and a skilled horseman. At the crack of dawn, as the cock crows, both were to leave their respective cities and ride as fast as they could along a predetermined route. Where they met would be deemed to be the boundary between the two great powers.

The story goes that the Florentines semi starved their (black) cockerel, so that it crew much earlier than that of the Siennese. The emblem of the black cockerel has persisted ever since!

A few words about how a wine is classified to be a Chianti Classico. The area within the region is about 80,000 acres, of which about one quarter is under vine. There are maximum yields permitted (7.5 tons/hectare) and minimum requirements for aging (10 months, at least 7 of which is in oak). Vineyards must be at least 4 years old and dry-grown. Not all wine meeting these minimum standards is bottled as a Chianti Classico – the producer can call it a Chianti Classico Riserva if it is aged for 27 months before release, and has a higher alcohol content (12.5% instead of 12% in the case of Chianti Classico). Other producers might choose to label a wine as an IGT wine, especially if they think the style of the wine is not in keeping with a Chianti Classico. Such wines may have a denser and more tannic structure for example.

Having said that, there are as many types of Chianti Classici as there are producers. The classic description is, however, of a medium bodied wine, with medium tannins, medium/high acidity and core fruit flavours of cherries (and perhaps raspberries). In this incarnation, Chianti Classico partners many foods extremely well. Chianti Classici of greater structure and density, especially the Riservas, have the potential to age for up to 10 years.

Living here in Tuscany for the past 5 months I have, of course, been exposed to many a Chianti Classico. Rather than describe tasting notes for all, I will list below the ones which have caught my eye, in 2 categories – the first a more “classic” Classico style, and the second, a denser, more highly extracted style. I hope at least some of these can be found in Australia!

Recommended Chianti Classici “classic”

  • Castellare docg 2007 (18 pts)
  • Castell’invilla docg riserva (18.25 pts)
  • Fontodi docg 2006 (17.5)Isole e Olena docg 2007 (17.75)
  • Ormanni docg 2004 riserva (18)
  • Poggerino docg 2007 (16.5)
  • Castello dei Rampolla docg 2006 (17)
  • Riecine docg 2007 (17.75)
  • Fattoria di Rodano docg 2004 riserva (18.5)
  • Vecchie Terre di Monefili docg 2006 (18)

Recommended Chianti Classici “fuller bodied”

  • Dievole docg 2005 (17.5)
  • Fonterutoli docg 2007 (17.5)

Until next time, ciao!!