A Boot-full of Wine – Tasting notes from Italy

Pugnitello

30 December 2009

Does the name Pugnitello mean anything to You?

I would be surprised if it did. It is the name of an indigenous or autoctonous grape variety from here in Tuscany, Italy. In ancient times, the Etruscans were the inhabitants of this area, before they were overrun by the Romans a couple of centuries BC. They were early cultivars of the vine – though they usually let the vines climb along trees in trails the vines set themselves.

In recent years, scientists, winemakers and vignerons have been concerned by the attrition of grape vine varieties – in what they call the “genetic erosion” of Vitis vinifera – due to, among other reasons, the phylloxera blight and selection of specific varieties to the exclusion of others.

In response to this, the University of Florence in conjunction with San Felice winery and vineyard sought to rediscover and cultivate autoctonous (indigenous) vines. In what has been a mammoth project, an attempt has been made to grow all the existing vines in Tuscany. These have been verified genetically as distinct varieties, and in all, about 230 were grafted on rootstocks and cultivated. Of these, only about 30 bore grapes suitable for wine (by a process called “micro-vinification”, simply meaning small quantities of wine were produced from each plant).

Early results showed that Pugnitello worked well, and is one of the most advanced of the varieties. Being a new variety, oenologists are still learning about its qualities and characteristics, and which winemaking techniques best suit it. I was invited to join a vertical tasting of Pugnitello at the San Felice winery where we tasted all vintages made – 2003, 2004, 2006 and 2007 (none was made in 2005).

Before I go to my tasting notes, two brief points. The wines showed increasing finesse, structure and austerity as the vintages have progressed. This probably represents greater familiarity with the variety than issues of vine age. Secondly, the wines displayed excellent acidity levels even with full phenolic ripeness. If climate change were to proceed to produce warmer vintages, the presence of varieties such as Pugnitello bodes well.

(All wines are San Felice – Pugnitello, all aged in French oak barriques)

San Felice – Pugnitello 2003 (17pts). Dried prunes, plums and blackcurrant on the nose and through to the bittersweet palate. Some savoury earthy characters. Oak still in evidence, with good acid and still needing time to integrate. Alc 12.77%

San Felice – Pugnitello – 2004 (17.5pts). Stewed but not overripe fruit, with more spicy tones of anise in particular. Good complexity with softer, more integrated tannins and good acid levels again. Alc 13.5%

San Felice – Pugnitello – 2006 (18.25pts). My pick of the tasting. Cherries and plums with some clove on the nose and savoury notes on the palate. Tannins were ripe but discrete. Oak is in no way overwhelmed. Excellent persistence. Alc 12.8%

San Felice – Pugnitello – 2007 Black fruits again but with distinctively more floral notes. Oak more evident with sweet ripe tannins and high acidity again. Lovely mouthfeel and not “hot” despite alcohol level. Alc 14% 17.5

Until next time, ciao!

Brendan Jansen

Editor’s Note: At a time when Australian red wines are often exceeding 15%, a red wine with 14% alcohol seems quite tame really.