A Boot-full of Wine
Tasting Notes from Italy (and beyond!)
26 May 2011
Who is Felix Peters? Well may you ask.
In a previous article, I wrote about a new generation of German winemakers who are breaking the mold, and in doing so taking German wine to new heights. Felix is one of the new vanguard.
Winemaker at the medium sized (annual production about 165,000 bottles) St Antony Weingut in the Rheinhessen (being the lone winemaker makes the title “Chief” redundant), he went through his oenological studies at Geisenheim, but has spent some time working vintages in other countries, including in Burgundy, France. Felix has a special admiration for Burgundian wine, and in particular with the regions attempts to produce terroir wine.
Indeed we began the visit with a tour of the nearby vineyards. Felix spoke with intimate knowledge of each site – the merits of their differing soils and slightly different aspect. He is keen to produce wines that reflect a sense of place, in this case the set of variables that come together in his part of the Rheinhessen.
Riesling is king here, as it should be, but Felix has Pinot Noir in his red portfolio, both German and French (777) clones. His philosophy with Pinot Noir vinification is usually only incomplete destemming, cold maceration, higher fermentation temperatures, and a proportion of new oak. We tasted barrel samples of two examples, both with Cote de Nuits like structure and silkiness.
But it was with Felix’s Rieslings that I was most impressed. His “basic” (entry level) dry Riesling was anything but. And as the quality level climbed, so did complexity and aromatic scope, with Felix’s said aim of reflecting the specific conditions of the site. Bottle and barrel samples were tried. I especially liked his Rotschiefer Riesling 2009, a combination of perfume and minerality, in a trocken or dry style.
I have mentioned previously that there has been a swing back to maturation in large inert oak barrels in Germany. The traditional method in times past was also to ferment in oak vats and even concrete (and continued to be employed in some regions such as the Mosel) until the merits of stainless steel were “discovered”. Though stainless steel provides a purity and freshness, producers are seeking greater softness and complexity, especially in wines from better sites.
Felix goes one step further. With his best grapes, from his best parcels, he is experimenting with barrel fermentation and on-lees aging. Yes, this is Riesling we are talking about. With some effort, he was able to source barrels from Meursault, seeking a similar style. For me, the comparison lay with Grand Cru Chablis – with the evidence of some oak influences, but with that racy, minerally acidity to boot. The barrel sample of the 2010 Nierstein Pettenthal Riesling (Grosses Gewächs – or Grand Cru if you like), just a minute part of the overall production of St Antony, was simply amazing.
Felix continues to experiment. I was privileged to be able to sample some of the latest fruits of his endeavours!
Ciao for now! Or maybe auf wiedersehen!
Brendan Jansen