Reviewed – 18 August 2011

Penfolds is a very significant name in Australian wine, making a wide array of wines at every price point. The quality of wines like Grange and 707 needs no introduction, but it is the wines at the bottom of the price scale that I want to talk about.

The cheaper range looks something like this: Rawsons Retreat – Koonunga Hill – Thomas Hyland – Bin wines.

Last week, I reviewed the Rawsons Retreat cab/shiraz as an excellent quaff but the other wines in the range are quite different in style. Even at the Koonunga Hill level, (shiraz in this case), the wines are obviously Penfolds. There is quality fruit and that trademark oak handling. It must drive the winemakers mad to see a wine that has been so well made being sold for well under $10. This is a wine that could do with a few years in the cellar!!!

It is the Thomas Hyland that really stands out for me though. This is a ripper, with quality fruit, oak and winemaking. The quality of the 2009 vintage in South Australia must have been excellent, because there are at least 5 layers of shiraz above this in the Penfolds stable, and some of this fruit could easily have slotted in to the Bin wines.

A couple of other noteworthy wines. The Marmaduke is also a bargain, the wines from The Lane are super fine and elegant, and the Xabregas is nothing short of a star. Paul Hogan and the team at Xabregas are in brilliant form, as this follows on from their stunning 2010 rieslings, which were amongst the best rieslings I tried last year.

And so to the wines…

Reviewed

Xabregas – Shiraz – 2009 (18.5). Wow, fine white pepper here. Classic cool climate shiraz that is very fine and refined. Impressive length and excellent structure to the silky fruit. The quality of the fruit is outstanding, and the winemaking is spot on. Fragrant and perfumed, with excellent mouth-feel and texture. This is a beautiful wine that, while lovely now, will benefit from at least 5 years in the cellar. The sheer drinkability of this wine saw it bumped up to a gold medal.

The Lane – Shiraz – Block 14 – 2010 (18.2). Now this is a lovely wine. Fragrant and spicy fruit that has real quality. The fruit is vibrant, perfumed and a touch racy, with lovely white pepper to close. This is refined, long and serious. The balance is spot on and the textural components are a treat. The nose and the palate are subdued by fine oak and silky tannins at present, but everything is in place for the future. This took a couple of days to show its best, so if you are going to drink it now, give it some air.

Penfolds – Shiraz – Thomas Hyland – 2009 (17.6). Serious, quality fruit on display. An attractive nose displaying licorice, spice and sweet fruit. This is from a warmer region, but it is in no way overblown. Lovely plum notes, with chocolate and cedary spice to close. Impressive length and texture to what is a quality wine. This was even better the next day. (I saw this on special last week for under $13, so back up the truck!)

Windows Estate – Shiraz – Basket Pressed – 2008 (17.5+). Intriguing. Herbal notes along with red fruits and hints of licorice. Very peppery and spicy fruit on the palate, with vibrant red berries and a touch of cedar to close. Impressive length, the silky oak closes down the back palate right now, but this is an attractive wine of some appeal.

The Lane – Shiraz – Block 5 – 2009 (17.5). Plum and spice on a focused nose. Medium weight fruit that is light, fresh and quite pretty. Not immediately obvious, this is a delicate and fine wine with a hint of chocolate to the red fruit characters. Impressive balance and length. Will be even better in a couple of years.

Cape Mentelle – Shiraz – Marmaduke – 2009 (17.5). A slightly dusty nose that took some time to open up. A shy wine that is firm at present. Has some peppery fruit. Opens to show savoury, spicy fruit of real quality, with excellent oak handling. Impressive length and depth to what is a stylish wine. I do not recall this wine being a straight shiraz before, but it is a ripper. Would benefit from cellaring for a few years and is great value.

Hardys – Shiraz – Oomoo – 2009 (17.2). The colour here is tending to purple around the edge. Seductive nose with ripe plum and cinnamon to the fore. The palate is supple and really spicy. Impressive length in a medium bodied wine. Great value current drinking.

d’Arenberg – Shiraz – The Love Grass – 2008 (16.9). Typical d’Arenberg shiraz fruit. The wine is not bad, but the name??? Cellar door only.

Penfolds – Shiraz – Koonunga Hill – 2009 (16.9). Opens with pleasant, plummy fruit in an easy, approachable package. Do not be fooled though, this has enough structure to warrant a couple of years in the cellar.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2010 (16.8). Lovely mix of ripe shiraz fruit and candied, vanillin oak aromas. Spice, and redcurrant fruit on the palate with hints of plum and licorice. Only medium bodied and not particularly dense, this is a good drink. (Tasted twice).

New Release

Reviewed: 14 July 2011

I was very excited to receive an invite to a wine dinner hosted by McWilliams, as I feel that their wines are not fully appreciated in Western Australia.

McWilliams (the owners of Mount Pleasant) is a family owned winery, which allows the winemaking team (led by Phil Ryan) a degree of latitude to make the best wine possible, rather than focusing purely on profit. Phil has had a remarkable career with Mount Pleasant spanning over 35 years. It is amazing that a winery that was established in 1921 has only had three chief winemakers, starting with the legendary Maurice O’Shea.

The Maurice O’Shea shiraz is an awesome wine made from 80 and 120 year old vines.

The focus at Mount Pleasant is on single vineyard wines. This has been a tradition for many years with the likes of the Lovedale vineyard semillon and the Rosehill and OP&OH shiraz. This was long before the current trend for single site wines emerged.

The Rosehill and Lovedale vineyards were planted in 1946, OP in 1880 and the OH in 1921!

Phil Ryan and Greg West (Sales & Marketing) made the trip across to showcase their range and provide a taste of the soon to be released 2009 vintage reds. Both the Lovedale semillon and the Maurice O’Shea shiraz were remarkable wines. In fact, all the wines represented remarkable value for money.

The team from Evans & Tate, which is lead by senior winemaker Matthew Byrne, was on hand to show off some of their smart new releases. Evans and Tate is now owned by McWilliams but I will talk about them on another occasion.

Reviewed

McWilliams – Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2005 (18.5). Lovely nose showing lemon, lanolin and citrus notes with a hint of honey. The complex palate has honey, lemon and supple, creamy fruit on the finish. The length is the key here, as this really lingers. A supple wine of great charm that will live for many years.

McWilliams – Mount Pleasant – Chardonnay – Phil Ryan – 2009 (17.5+). This is a very modern expression of chardonnay. Very fine and elegant, with grapefruit, match strike and peach fruit that builds with air. The palate has melon and stonefruit characters and racy acidity to close. Long and fine with sympathetic oak handling. Primarily Hunter Valley fruit (85%), that has not had malo-lactic fermentation. Aged in French oak (25% new). A bargain at $20, only from the winery.

McWilliams – Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – Phil Ryan – 2009 (17.5). Juicy, silky and seductive. This is a fruit driven style, yet the structure is excellent. Fine tannins to close.

McWilliams – Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – Rosehill – 2009 (17.7). More density and depth to the fruit. Lovely mouth-feel and texture. This is silky, ripe and long, with red fruits, licorice, spice and a touch of pepper to close. Again, excellent length.

McWilliams – Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – Op & OH – 2009 (18). Spicy notes over a core of juicy, red fruits. Again, this has greater density and weight of fruit than the Rosehill, with beautiful mouth-feel and balance. Licorice and fine grained oak, with slightly chewy tannins that add to the finish. An elegant wine that is probably the best value red we tried.

McWilliams – Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – Maurice O’Shea – 2009 (18 – 18.5+). Remarkable, refined and enticing. The nose is all about spice and licorice. The palate is amazing, with intense chocolate, plum, coffee and a touch of dried herbs and leather. Whilst only medium bodied, this is textured and very long. A lovely wine.

Reviewed – 30 June 2011

Ten years ago, a shiraz tasting would have consisted of wines from the Barossa, with a few Clare Valley and McLaren Vale wines thrown in for good measure. How times have changed. Whilst South Australia was well represented, this tasting had wines from NSW, Victoria and several from Western Australia.

The standout feature was the fact that most of the wines had ripe fruit without being over-ripe or overtly alcoholic. Elegance and finesse were the order of the day.

There were several excellent wines, with the Wisdom and Filsell being great examples of quite different styles. Why Grant Burge persists with a cork for the Filsell is beyond me. For this reason, the Harewood is the one to try. At around $30, it is a lovely wine.

Reviewed

Grant Burge – Shiraz – Filsell – 2009 (18.5). Lovely hue. This is vibrant and big. Dark fruits with hints of forest floor, leather and tar. The depth to this wine is amazing, and the palate is outstanding. Dense, ripe, high quality (old vine) fruit that shows licorice and spice. This is a big wine, but it is perfectly balanced. Excellent length and good texture. Has absorbed the quality oak with ease. Will cellar for 10+ years, cork permitting.

Leasingham – Shiraz – Bin 61 – 2008 (18.2). Tight, but obvious quality here. Dense, closed and shy. The palate has very high quality fruit that is savoury, with hints of plum and spice. The oak and fruit tannins are fine, tight knit and firm. The length is prodigious, but this needs ten years to show its best.

Harewood Estate – Shiraz – 2008 (18+). Bright red fruit here. Lively and vibrant, this is a succulent wine. Not much fruit on show initially, but this is a wine of some appeal. Really builds intensity with air. The quality of the fruit is outstanding. Ripe red fruits with fresh plum and mocha. Very long. The fine, almost chalky tannins dominate the finish, so give it time and watch it blossom.

Houghton – Shiraz – Wisdom – 2009 (18+). Savoury. Lovely intense blueberry and black fruits, with a touch of vanillin oak lift. Medium bodied and savoury, this has slightly chewy tannins and peppery fruit, though the finish is silky. Very good length and concentration from a wine that suggests a cooler region. Lovely mouth-feel and texture to what is a really pretty wine. (This was even better the next day).

Turkey Flat – Shiraz – 2007 (18). Tar, leather, plum and spice combined with licorice and mocha notes. Very savoury palate with all the earthy notes coming through. Very long and dense, this is a stylish wine of real pedigree. It is more in the style of a northern Rhone wine than a big Australian, but this will age well in the medium term. This developed further richness with air.

Angove – Shiraz – 125th Anniversary – 2009 (17.9). The first wine to have a touch of stewed plum to the fruit characters. This comes through on the palate too. A traditional style that has some older vine fruit. Opulent and big, this has many facets to it. Chocolate, leather and earthy notes combine well with the soft, plummy fruit. Big, ripe, soft and opulent though with some restraint. Vanillin oak to close.

Cape Mentelle – Shiraz – 2009 (17.8). Vibrant and forward. Lifted redcurrant and cranberries with a hint of candy. The palate is also vibrant and lively, with plenty of peppery fruit through the middle of the palate. Long and savoury, there is quality, fine grained French oak to close. A smart wine that is a good each-way bet.

Marchand & Birch – Shiraz – 2009 (17.7). Very dense fruit. The quality here is without question. Chocolate, coffee, cinnamon, cedar. The oak is closing down the fruit now, but with time, this will blossom. Stylish wine, with a silky finish and excellent length. Be patient!

Mad Fish – Shiraz – Sideways – 2009 (17.6). Pretty fruit here. Lifted ripe red fruits on the nose. The palate is long, fine and savoury. Near seamless, with a lovely mouth-feel. Very fine tannins and silky oak. An easy wine to like.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Haycutters – 2008 (17/17.5). Much more savoury and elegant fruit. Actually quite pretty. Delicate red fruits. The palate is flooded with sweet fruit, though there is a souring finish that adds freshness. Easy to drink now or in 5 years. Gets extra points for being the best drinking wine in the tasting.

Peccavi – Shiraz – 2008 (17.2). Dense and fleshy fruit. Yes there are plum aromas, but there is a whole lot more. The palate shows plum and cedar. Nice mouth-feel, fine tannins and good length make for a quality wine. Has obvious cool climate characters and drinks well. Just needs a touch more mid-palate fruit weight to get higher points.

Whiz Bang – Shiraz – 2009 (17). Sweeter fruit on the nose. Cherry, Satsuma plum and cedar/spicy notes. The fruit on the palate is great fun. Big, rich and ripe, with a touch of alcohol showing through on the finish. A crowd pleaser that is really juicy and succulent. Not as structured as some, but good drinking. (Made by Angove).

Reviewed – 15 May 2011

As always, several wines did not make it to this page. What is reviewed here however is a smart line-up of wines. On a different day, any of the top wines could have received a gold medal as they are very good.

Reviewed

Capel Vale – Shiraz – Whispering Hill – 2008 (18). Ripe red fruit aromas to open, though the pretty fruit suggests a cooler region. The palate is fresh and lively, yet the balance is spot on. Good mouth-feel and length. A supple wine that offers great appeal. This really opened up after being open for 2 days.

Shingleback – Shiraz – 2007 (18). Plush, ripe and dense. Plum, cherry, licorice and a touch of earth. There are some cedary oak highlights that complement the fruit well. This is a powerful wine with dense, high quality fruit. The palate has dark fruit and chocolate notes. The length is impressive and whilst big, this is in no way jammy. A very good 2007!

Voyager Estate – Shiraz – 2009 (17.7). Licorice, ripe red fruits and cedary oak all combine well on the nose. Silky and supple mouth-feel showcasing cooler climate shiraz. The palate has bright fruit that is currently being shut down by the oak. Pepper on the close adds to the finish. A high quality wine that will develop well over ten years.

Howard Park – Shiraz – Scotsdale – 2009 (17.5). Powerful fruit here. Lovely redcurrant, and spice on the nose, with cedary oak that adds complexity. Good length and balance, though the fruit is suppressed by the structural components right now. Will be a joy in 5 – 10 years.

Ferngrove – Shiraz – Dragon – 2008 (17.3). This is a balanced and elegant wine that shows ripe fruit on the nose that is forward and bright. Chocolate and licorice dominate the finish and quality oak only adds to the package. Good length and mouth-feel cap off a good drink.This is an easy wine to like.

Mt Horrocks – Shiraz – 2009 (17++). Very closed at present, so it is difficult to get a good handle on this. The nose shows pretty black fruits, while the palate is quite brooding, with slightly stewed plum fruit. Good length of flavour, the palate freshens and builds depth with air. This is an interesting wine showing quality ripe fruit. It just needs a few years to come out of its shell.

Angove – Shiraz – Vineyard Select – 2009 (17+). This has an intriguing nose – there is a whole lot going on, with red fruits, cherries, spice and a touch of pepper. The palate shows plum and concentrated fruit that is dense and long. The wine really builds in the mouth and the finish is long, round and mouth-filling.

Howard Park – Shiraz – Leston – 2009 (17+). Ripe, but with a lovely savoury edge. Chocolate, leather and earthy flavours on the palate. This is a serious wine with plenty of character. Quality fruit and winemaking are on display, though it needs time to come together.

Willow Bridge – Shiraz – Dragonfly – 2009 (16,8). Very pretty nose. Vibrant red fruits to the fore. The palate is soft, round and juicy with a touch of pepper to close. While this is not a complicated wine, it delivers great everyday drinking.

Reviewed – 16 April 2011

It is wines like the Kingston Estate and Shingleback that make these tastings worthwhile. To be able to buy a quality wine for $15 is brilliant. Yes, there were better wines in the tasting, but the value equation is a no brainer.

Reviewed

Penfolds – Shiraz – 2008 (18). This really is a complete wine. Closed and austere on the nose with hints of dark fruits. Whilst very spicy, the fruit is almost impenetrable at present. Excellent length here and high quality fruit too. This needs ten years to shine.

Kalleske – Shiraz – Moppa – 2009 (17.5+). A step up in price and a step up in quality. High quality fruit and wine-making here. This is dense, plush and mouth-filling, with ripe, dark fruits. The texture is excellent and there is genuine length of fruit flavours. Silky and refined, this is very smart and will look even better in a few years. Seamless oak adds to the finish.

Kingston Estate – Shiraz – Mount Lofty/Limestone Coast – 2009 (17.5). This starts off closed and tight, but you can sense the potential with licorice, cedar, spice and earth. Ripe yet cool fruit floods the palate. This is quite seamless, yet the vanillin oak and fruit tannins are palpable. Despite the cool climate fruit characters, this is a generous wine that will age well in the short to medium term. This is a fantastic bargain at $15, but will probably get discounted further.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2009 (17.5). Ripe and lifted fruit on the nose with cherry, satsuma plum, pepper, spice and cedar. Quite lean on the finish, with chewy tannins. but the length is good. The palate should plump out over the next few years. Another terrific bargain from Shingleback!

Stella Bella – Shiraz – 2008 (17.4). Initially closed on the nose. The palate is a revelation, displaying high quality cool climate fruit with white pepper and cherry to the fore. Very fine grained oak complements the fruit and the finish is long and relatively structured. Cedary oak to close.

Rocky Gully – Shiraz – 2009 (17.4). Spicy wine that is technically correct, but is initially subdued. There is plenty of pepper and the palate opens to develop mouth-filling fruit. Chocolate and cedar to close. Good length and persistence and clever use of oak.

Angove – Shiraz – Vineyard Select – 2009 (17.1). Lifted nose displaying plum and tar, with a touch of sour cherry. In the mouth, this is succulent, juicy, round and rich. This has excellent up-front fruit with clever oak handling conferring vanilla and cedar. A medium term prospect.

Greenstone – Shiraz- 2007 (17). Leather, coffee notes, truffle and spice. Silky, ripe and textured. Good length and persistence. Slightly chewy tannins with cedary oak that has a touch of char. I would be interested to see this again in a few years.

Penley Estate – Shiraz – Hyland – 2009 (16.9). Lovely colour here. A pretty wine that is all about purity of fruit. Dense, textured and mouth-filling fruit on the palate with souring acidity that adds balance. Again, minimal oak influence and the vanilla and licorice notes add interest. A youthful wine that is excellent short term drinking.

Fire Gully – Shiraz – 2008 (16.8). Lighter hue with pretty floral fruit. Redcurrant, cherry and spice to the fore. The palate is soft, supple and generous. There is no overt oak influence, making for an approachable every day red that is good drinking.

Bird in Hand – Shiraz – Two in the Bush – 2009 (16.7). Dense wine that has plum and fruitcake aromas. There is a touch of dusty oak and some cedar and fresh herbs. Licorice, cherry, plum and cedary oak all complement each other on the palate and the fruit is ripe and good quality. A solid wine but not as vibrant as the best.

Chapel Hill – Shiraz – The Parson’s Nose – 2009 (16.4). Unusual nose with both sweet and sour components. There are layers of flavour including spice and blueberry with grainy tannins to close. Good drinking.

21 February 2011

As many of you know, pinot noir is a difficult grape to make fine wine from. It came as a surprise then, to have several excellent wines in this short bracket. Interestingly, of the top three, one was from South Australia, one from Victoria and one from New Zealand. There were also several very strong shiraz based wines as well.

Reviewed

Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18.3). Delicate and perfumed nose on what is a very pretty wine. At the moment, this wine is all about texture and structure, but the fruit opens up nicely with air. The palate is superb, with powerful fruit that retains an elegance lacking in some. Textured and very complex, this is very youthful but still enjoyable.

Capel Vale – Shiraz – Whispering Hill – 2008 (18). Pretty wine. There are floral notes and a lovely, peppery lift. This is very fine and textured, and the length is superb. Fruit and oak tannins are well judged, but the fruit needs time and air to really express itself. Chocolate fruit to close. An excellent wine.

Deviation Road – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18). Fragrant and firm to start, with cherry and bright red fruit. A quite delicious wine with a lovely savoury twist on the finish. A complex wine with excellent length and mouth-feel. Feminine and elegant, this will be excellent drinking over the next three years.

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – 2009 – (17.8+). More structured and earthy than the Deviation Road, with forest floor aromas, cinnamon, clove and spice on the nose. Powerful palate, with plenty of structure and sappy/briary fruit. Complex, tight and a touch awkward on the finish right now, this should soften with time in the bottle.

Deviation Road – Shiraz – Reserve – 2008 (17.8). Plum, spice, cherry and oak all impart aromas that gel together well. The spicy palate is complemented by cedary oak. A well made wine that shows quality fruit. Only medium bodied, this should evolve over 5 – 10 years.

Palmer – Shiraz – 2008 (17.6). Cooler climate expression of shiraz fruit. Vibrant, raspberry fruit with licorice and a touch of tar on the nose. The palate has lovely, peppery fruit with some spicy notes coming from the fine grain oak. Silky and classy mouth-feel demonstrates quality fruit and winemaking. Not super long but a very good drink.

Alkoomi – Shiraz/Viognier – 2009 (17.5). Fragrant with Satsuma plum and mulberry. Silky, sweet fruit coats the tongue and there are licorice and tarry notes to add complexity. Long and dense, the finish has no rough edges. Excellent value.

Bird in Hand – Shiraz – 2009 (17.5). Rich, ripe and dense with a seductive nose. Dense, ripe fruit on the palate with sweet fruit that has a slightly candied/vanillin edge. Long and dense, this retains a degree of elegance.

Penfolds – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Koonunga Hill – Seventy Six – 2008 (17.1). Opens with a lifted nose. There is a degree of depth to the fruit on the palate. Whilst there are ripe fruit aromas, there is a degree of balance here. The middle palate lacks a bit of density but otherwise, this is a smart wine.

Plantagenet – Pinot Noir – Omrah – 2009 (17). Cedar and spice suggest a fairly fresh wine that has seen some new oak. The palate is dominated by strawberry and cherry fruit. Not as complex as some, but good drinking. Represents value.

Juniper Crossing – Shiraz – 2008 (16.8). Dense and rich with perfumed notes coming through on the nose. The fresh and vibrant fruit is balanced and round. Plum and cedar dominate the palate. The finish is tending towards warm.

Greed Sheep – Shiraz – 2009 (16.8). Smells slightly damp and earthy. Restrained and taut, this has lovely, peppery fruit, but a slightly earthy finish. Good fruit, with soft, fine tannins, though just a touch simple.

20 December 2010

Saltram is a winery with a history dating back to 1859. Many years ago this was bought by the big companies and is now a part of the Fosters empire. Importantly, in the mid 2000s, with Nigel Dolan as chief winemaker, there was a move back to 100% Barossa fruit and a real focus on quality. I have always been a fan of the No 1, and whilst inconsistent, the Mamre Brook Range has delivered value from time to time.

The current tasting featured a quartet of shiraz based wines from Saltram and the results were impressive. For me the 2006 No 1 came out on top, a whisker ahead of the Mamre Brook 2008. What the Mamre lacked in sheer density, it made up for with a vibrancy of fruit that was captivating. When you consider that the 2006 No 1 has an rrp of $77, the Mamre Brook is a bargain at under $30. On their own, all of the Saltram wines will impress!

Finally, the Drakesbrook shiraz was enjoyable and very approachable and good value at $18 RRP.

Tasted

Saltram – Shiraz – No 1 – 2006 (18.5). Quite pretty initially. Really deep smelling, with both red and black fruits with a touch of plum. Wow, the fruit on the palate is impressive. This is only medium bodied (for a Barossa shiraz), but the power and intensity of the fruit are excellent. Redcurrant fruit characters dominate the palate and the finish is long and silky. As this opened up, the power of the fruit really shone, whilst there was excellent line and length on a seamless finish.

Saltram – Shiraz – Mamre Brook – 2008 (18.3++). Impressive nose that is vibrant and alive. This is complex, dense and really draws you in to the glass. The inky palate matches the colour. The concentration of fruit is outstanding, but this is restrained and very fine. There are hints of chocolate, pepper, spice and quality oak, but all add to the superb mouth-feel. Licorice and mocha notes to close. For a wine of such power, this is incredibly elegant and silky. Will develop more complexity with age.

Saltram – Shiraz – The Journal – 2006 (18+). A very stylish wine of subtleness and complexity. Forward and fresh fruit on the nose. The palate is bright and forward to start, but quality shiraz fruit dominates the finish. Excellent length and mouth-feel make the finish very enjoyable and very elegant. Some plum on the peppery fruit to close. This wine took several days to show its best.

Saltram – Shiraz/Tempranillo – Winemakers Selection – 2008 (17.8+). Closed and restrained. The palate has layers of dense fruit with chocolate overtones. The power of the fruit is impressive and the texture/mouth-feel. are a highlight. This coats the tongue with silky fruit, and there are plums and white pepper to close. The tannins are very fine and the oak, while obvious, is harmonious and adds to the wine. Give it time.

Ferngrove – Shiraz – Dragon – 2008 (17.5). The purple colour is impressive. Some earthy notes to start, but the nose is quite seductive. Fresh fruit on the palate, with strawberries, currants, pepper and a touch of spice. Not the same depth of fruit as the best here, but has good quality fruit and decent length on the finish. Very well made and good drinking.

Drakesbrook – Shiraz – 2009 (17). Fragrant and lifted fruit develops on the nose. This is fresh and juicy. The palate is flooded with ripe fruit. There is a mass of dark fruits and a touch of forest floor. The oak/tannins are a touch grippy now, though the length is very good. Not as complex as the best hear, but a lovely fruit driven wine that will be good drinking over the next 5 or so years.

Woodside Valley Estate – Shiraz – Bonnefoy – 2008 (17). Unusual nose. There is cedar, menthol, and even a touch of camphor. The palate is similar, with textured mouth-feel. and silky tannins that finish with a touch of grip. Good fruit, but unusual in an almost old world style. Is good drinking, and received strong support from one panel member.

Barking Owl – Shiraz/Viognier – 2009 (16.8). Cooler fruit notes on a firm and structured nose that developed some red fruits with air. There is fragrant and floral fruit on the palate with a touch of pepper and plummy fruit on the finish. The tannins are firm and plentiful.

Talisman – Shiraz – 2009 (16.8). Forward fruit. There is a touch of white pepper on the nose. The palate is firm, yet well balanced. Very well made and quite silky on the palate. Not a blockbuster, but very enjoyable.

Millbrook – Shiraz/Viognier – 2007 (16.5+). Again, not offering much on the nose. The palate starts off lean and firm, but develops dense chocolate fruit over time. Should improve over time (and score higher points).

Angove – Shiraz/Viognier – Nine Vines – 2009 (16.5). Pretty and forward aromas on the nose suggestive of the addition of viognier. A touch of apricot confirms this. The stonefruit notes are there on the palate, but there is a lack of depth to the fruit on the palate. A touch candied on the finish, this is a good commercial wine and good value.

Plantaganet – Shiraz – Omrah – 2007 (16.4). Pretty fruit again here. There is a touch of pepper to the bright fruit characters. The palate is elegant and juicy, with a touch of stewed plum on the close. Not so complex, but will carry food well.

Red Truck – Shiraz – 2008 (16). Aiming to recreate the success of the Red Truck wines in the US, this is the Australian made version made by Cheviot Bridge. Soft and plummy, with rounded fruit notes, this is a sound commercial wine.

15 August 2010

There has been plenty of discussion in the media over the last two weeks about how Coles and Woolworths are introducing home-brand wines and what this means for the industry. In my view, if the wines are good, then this is probably a good thing for the consumer.

With this in mind, I went to Vintage Cellars in Shenton Park and asked Paul Stephenson for a couple of their wines to put into the panel tasting. I was amazed to see the number of exclusive wines that were available. Some are made by famous producers exclusively for Vintage Cellars, either under the original makers name, or with reference to the famous maker on the label.

These wines are not cheap quaffers, as the price range is from around $20 right up to the RK wines at over $70.

A third group have a unique label and fit into the “home-brand” category. These are more what I was expecting, ten dollar wines that have the potential to offer value for money for everyday drinking. And the outcome was nothing short of sensational!

Loomwine at $10.50 per bottle (in dozen buys) is fantastic value. The panel uniformly recommend this wine. This is up there with the Houghton Stripe-Range shiraz and the Long Row from Angove. It is worth remembering that the Houghton and the Angove are both available well under $10 on special. The Pensilva was also widely appreciated. It would appear that on the surface, these wines are good for the consumer, though there are known brands that offer equivalent or better value.

A couple of highlights in quality terms – the Turkey Flat and the O’Leary Walker were both outstanding. The Turkey Flat is a great effort for the year and the O’Leary Walker is a real sleeper. The Houghton Wisdom is a very sophisticated and elegant wine. Finally, if you are after a preservative free wine, then the Temple Bruer is a solid wine.

Reviewed

Turkey Flat – Shiraz – 2007 (18.3). Oooh! Classic Barossa shiraz on the nose. Dense, ripe fruit is interwoven with classy French oak. Dense palate with chocolate, licorice and dark fruits. This is a powerful wine, but the balance is superb the palate seamless and mouth-coating. This needs years to show its best. High quality old vines shiraz. Yes it is mainstream, but that is a good thing.

O’Leary Walker – Shiraz – Claire Reserve – 2006 (18/18.5). Dense and closed. There is a touch of Clare Valley mint to the fruit, and the mint continues on the fine palate. This is a very powerful wine that is extraordinarily closed and tight, but everything is in place. Will get higher marks in 5-10 years. I had another look at this after leaving the glass for about 3 hours and the fruit was just starting to shine. Will improve for 10 – 20 years.

Houghton – Shiraz – Wisdom – 2008 (17.9). Cedar, spice, cloves and aniseed on the nose with an amalgam of black fruits. This is medium bodied, supple and long, with cherry fruit notes. The palate is vibrant and the mouth-feel very good. Fine tannins add texture to a classy and sophisticated wine. Give it five years +.

Loomwine – Shiraz – Long Yarn – 2009 (17.7). Quite interesting. The nose is somewhat sweet and sour. The fruit is ripe, and there are some sour cherry tones to the aroma. Coffee, chocolate, licorice and cloves all coat the tongue. There is good complexity, to what is a solid wine. From Vintage Cellars.

Leasingham – Shiraz – Jam Shed – 2008 (17.5). Restrained with quite cool fruit on the nose. Silky and supple, this is a very elegant wine. There is spice and a touch of pepper along with cherry, plum and vanillin oak. Persistent finish and the fine tannins attest to the quality of the wine-making.

Pensilva Estate – Shiraz – 2008 9 (17.5). Somewhat subdued in comparison to some hear. This has lovely fruit and balance but is in the lighter spectrum. The balance and mouth-feel are good and the finish is very fine. Great value. Available from Vintage Cellars.

Mount Horricks – Shiraz – 2008 (17.5+). This has succulent fruit but it is tight and closed. This is a very young wine that shows potential, but it is hard to assess now. Grippy finish. (This took four days to open up, becoming fine and savoury. 10 yrs)

Fox Gordon – Shiraz – Eight Uncles – 2008 (17.2). Raspberry spectrum fruit here. The palate is flooded with ripe fruit. This finishes quite plumy with a touch of licorice and there is good fruit weight. Initially appears to lack the structure of the best, but this is deceiving, as the tannins are very fine and the oak well integrated. Good wine.

Gilberts – Shiraz – Three Devils – 2007 (16.8). Plum, and dark fruit. Some sweet vanillan oak adds interest. These characters continue on the palate with juicy plum and fresh fruit. There is enough structure to make good drinking.

Barwick Estate – Shiraz – The Collectables (16.5). White pepper on the nose. Silky, succulent, medium bodied wine. Cooler fruit spectrum. Excellent drinking in an uncomplicated way.

Millsreef – Syrah – 2008 (16.5). Fragrant and peppery with cherry and mint. The palate is a mass of white pepper with some red fruits building on the finish. Fine and medium bodied, this is a good cool climate wine that needs some time to open.

O’Leary Walker – Shiraz – 2008 (16.5). Polarised the panel. Cooler fruit on this. Pepper, plums, cinnamon and spice all coat the tongue, and the finish is shut down by firm tannins. Could improve in the medium term. Clare and McLaren blend.

Stella Bella – Shiraz – 2007 (16.5). Closed and unyielding. This really builds in the mouth. Fine tannins and oak dominate the finish, but the wine will improve over 5 or so years.

Temple Bruer – Shiraz – 2009 (16.5). Big, ripe fruit on the nose. This has classic warm climate fruit. The palate tends towards the candied fruit spectrum and the finish is soft and straight-forward. Quaff away. Organic and preservative free.

Part Two – 24 June 2010

We have more contenders for our Wines of the Year. There are three wines by Angove that deliver tremendous value. The pick is the Vineyard Select, but I defy anyone not to like the Long Row – shiraz at $10 or less.

Reviewed

Brown Brothers – Shiraz – Patricia – 2006 (18.2). A touch of dusty, cedary oak and earthiness leads off, but there is fresh, cooler climate fruit too. The palate has menthol and peppery shiraz fruit and a touch of tar. Fruit quality is good with real density, texture, structure and excellent mouth-feel. Very good length. Needs plenty of air to open up. Develops really sweet fruit, with leather and chocolate to close.

Angove – Shiraz – Vineyard Select – 2008 (18+). Really fresh and vibrant. Points for drinkability. Ripe fruit with both satsuma plum and blackberries. Really silky and long, with fine tannins and seamless oak to close. Very good wine and a steal at less than $18. Back up the truck!

Balnaves – Shiraz – 2006 (17.8). Seductive nose. Menthol, plum, raspberry, cedar and a touch of spice. Wow. This is special. Really intense fruit with pepper and spice. Tightly structured, this has finesse and great length.

Angove – Shiraz/Viognier – Nine Vines – 2008 (17.7). Quite ethereal and yet beguiling. This hints at fruit but it is very shy, though one panellist found red berry, plum and fennel. The fruit quality is matched by oak and skilled making. Will evolve. Great value.

Galafrey – Shiraz – Dry Grown Reserve – 2006 (17.7). Quite serious fruit with white pepper to the fore. Complex earthy characters dominate. Pristine fruit on the palate with more pepper and cedary oak. The finish is very long but shut down by very fine tannins. One panellist really loved this, and the wine will reward time in the cellar.

Angove – Shiraz – Long Row – 2008 (17). Quite dense and closed. Super winemaking to this with a silky mouth-feel that borders on seamless. Builds intensity on the finish and there is real length. Cooler fruit characters could do with a touch more intensity. Stunning value at $10 RRP.

Mount Avoca – Shiraz – 2008 (17/17.5). Fragrant and perfumed with cinnamon, vanilla and white pepper. Really peppery palate with enough ripe, juicy fruit to carry the tannins and oak. Again not as dense as some, but delicious. (Was much better the next night, with dense fruit to the fore).

Mt Langi Ghiran –Shiraz – Langi – 2007 (17). A very structured and firm wine that is obviously very well made. The fine tannins and grip prevent this being enjoyable now. May evolve though!

Paul Conti – Shiraz – Medici Ridge – 2007 (16.9). Some pong and earthy note. Think barnyard and horse. This is really dense and remarkably silky. Yes, it is old fashioned, will probably age well and will definitely polarise.

Chalk Hill – Shiraz – 2007 (16.8). Plum fruit, spice and density. A warmer style for those who like a big red.

Trevelen Farm – Shiraz – Frankland Reserve – 2007 (16.5). Generous, spicy, with chewy tannins to close.

Elderton – Shiraz – 2007 (16.3). Wow, really floral and pretty. Sweet fruit but with a really souring finish. Definitely needs food. Lack of generosity on the palate reflects the vintage.

Angove – Shiraz – Big Blokes Red – 2008 (16). Fruit ripe and plummy with a touch of confectionary notes. Plump, plumy fruit dominates the palate. An easy drinking style with some appeal.