Category Archives: Wine Review

Moderisation of Italian Wines

Dr Brendan Jansen

5 December 2009

Over the past 7 months here in Italy (and when I was in Rioja last week) I have frequently heard wines described as “modern” or “traditional” in style. I suspect this is a peculiar Old World issue, as “growing up” in the world of Australian wine, most styles were, almost by definition, modern.

What does the distinction mean here? I have come to understand that the term “modern” refers to a style of wine which is different to that produced by the region. It implies new and different winemaking techniques to attain such a style.

In the case of Sangiovese, and Chianti in particular, the traditional style has been a medium bodied wine with fine dusty tannins, high acidity, and bright cherry fruit characters, without any dominant influence of oak treatment. The more modern style involves more heavily extracted wines with deeper and denser fruit, even in the stewed plum spectrum, with use of oak to augment the tannic structure.

The drift to “modernisation” does not always flow towards creating a denser wine. In the case of Barolo for example, while the nebbiolo grape was traditionally fermented on its skins for up to two months and then aged in large oak or chestnut barrels (boti), these days, many producers limit skin contact to around the norm for red wine of about 17 days, leave the wine in wood for the minimum time allowed by law (for it to be classified as a Barolo) and often use small barrels. This results in wine that is far more approachable when young, and drinkable earlier than the 10 or twenty years one would have had to wait in the past.

What should we make of this drift towards the norm (part of what is sometimes referred to the “Parkerisation” of wine)? (By the way, I met Robert Parker as I was one who assisted at his grand Tasting at the Winefuture conference in Spain – a Grenache tasting with 538 people! More of that at a later date…).

Firstly, the positives. It has brought winemaking in the Old World into the 21st century, so that areas like Bordeaux are in fact the leaders in innovation when it comes to wine technology. There has been a revolution in quality (not solely because of this tendency to change of style of course). Spain is a fantastic example. The wines I tasted from Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Toro and other regions were fantastic. A far cry from the fruit-less, partially oxidised Gran Riservas of the past. In fact the old distinctions of “crianza, riserva, …etc” are becoming defunct. Use of American oak has given way to use of French oak in Spain.

Marques de Riscal now has a new line of wines, with flashy new and modern labelling, very different to their traditional wines (which they still produce of course). In a previous post I mentioned Chianti Classici of a more traditional style, and those of a more modern disposition.

Are there any negatives to these developments? In my opinion there certainly are. It is clear that many wines are being manufactured (and I use the word deliberately) to suit some sort of international palate. To be honest I find it difficult to distinguish a Sangiovese from a Temperanillo from a Shiraz on occasion, when made in a rich, fruit- and oak-laden style. I, for one, was first attracted to Old World wines because they were NOT fruit bombs, with 14.5%+ alcohol, but instead had complex, savoury characters without the fruit and oak dominating. (Hopefully, for the purposes of the Master of Wine tasting examinations, traditional and iconic examples of certain regions will still make an appearance!)

The phenomenon has also resulted in more “international” varieties being planted (not at the expense, I hope, of rare and quirky autochthonous* vines). What a shame if the wines of Bierzo in Spain (with varieties like Mencia), or a the wines of the Mount Etna region in Sicily (Nerello Mascalese) were to be relegated in consumers’ choice and never ever sampled… Is this the death of terrior!

What are your thoughts?

Until next time, ciao!

Brendan Jansen

* Editors Note – According to the Oxford Dictionary of English, autochthonous is an adjective meaning “(of an inhabitant of a place) indigenous rather descended

Thinking of visiting Burgundy?

A Boot-full of Wine

Tasting notes from Italy (and beyond)

2 May 2011

While I do not claim to be an expert on Burgundy or its wines, I can say that I have had a long-held passion for Burgundian pinot noir. After my recent and only visit to Burgundy, I can now say my passion extends to the place also.

Beaune almost bisects the Cote d’Or, with the line separating the Cote de Beaune from the Cote de Nuits a little north of it, and is a great base from which to explore the area. A small town, well set up for wine enthusiasts, it has a myriad of boutique wine shops, traditional restaurants and accommodation options. Beaune itself is a short train ride from Dijon, in turn accessible from Paris (about 2 hours by train).

I chose to stay in a bed and breakfast close to the centre of the town of Beaune, and do not think I could have made a better choice. The rooms offered by Chez Marie were clean and well decked out – at a 4-star hotel standard. Her breakfasts – replete with fantastic coffee, crispy French bread and home made preserves – gave me the sustenance required for the days of wine tasting and touring that followed.

As for a tour operator, I do not think that you can find a better one than Cristina Otel and her partner Christian Knott. Both are winemakers in their own right, Christian hails from Sydney, and both have worked vintages in Margaret River and France. Their company, Taste Burgundy, organizes tours for those with more than a modicum of knowledge about the area and its wines. A third staff member has just joined their team.

They are able to book appointments for you directly with producers, and drive you to them, providing translation while there. In truth, much more is provided – Cristina’s interest is in giving you a complete cultural experience of the area, including visits to the markets and specialty shops, the important Grand Cru vineyard sites, and the Hospices de Beaune (once a charitable almshouse and now a museum, and a must see).

Cristina and Christian’s passion for the wines of Burgundy, their attention to detail, and ability to put both hosts and clients at ease, makes for an in-depth experience.

What then will you find when you visit the local producers? Here, our focus was on small vignerons, and not large negociants. Well, there are those who vinify their pinot noir with a proportion of whole bunches and those who do not. There are those who use a majority of new oak, and others who do not. Some who use battonage for their whites while others who do not. Some who do a cold pre-fermentation maceration. You will find a range of fermentation temperatures and times employed. And all will tell you that what they do depends on the vintage and the quality of the fruit.

So you will encounter many a formula of how to make good red and white Burgundy. However, and most importantly, each producer will have a well thought out philosophy guiding his/her thinking. As an example, Thierry Violot-Guillemard uses 80% new oak for his pinot noir, yet the oak flavours are in no way overwhelming – he uses oak which has been seasoned for a lengthy 4 years. His reasoning? It allows him to leave his wines on its lees without having to rack or disturb the wine – both malolactic fermentation and sur lie are reductive processes – the newer oak results in greater oxidation as a counter, and therefore he does not have to touch the wines. He believes the less the wine is handled the better. The result? Silky powerful pinot noir, stunning at each quality level.

Those who made the greatest impression? Thibault Liger Belair – a young, and up and coming genius, who works biodynamically, for the sheer restrained power and complexity of his reds. Thierry Violot-Guillemard – for his engaging personal story, his warm generosity, and his silky pinot noirs. Blair Pethel (Domaine Dublere) – an American turned Burgundian – for his linear and true wines, especially his whites. And Gérald Cacheux (at Domaine René Cacheux) for his down-to-earth personality and down-to-earth wines.

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Aged White Wines

Whites – Mixed

Reviewed: 10 February 2011

With Summer in full swing, our group embarked on a tasting of quality whites that were a few years old. We ended up with an eclectic selection of (very) high quality wines.

Reviewed

Bruno Sorg – Riesling – Pfersigberg – Grand Cru – 2003 (17.5). Lovely oily texture, a hint of residual sugar and fresh acid makes for a lovely wine. Has a hint of floral notes and the very creamy, high quality oak rounds out the finish. Smart, seamless and beautifully crafted. From Alsace.

Clairault – Chardonnay – 2006 (17.3). Perfectly ripe fruit on the nose with pineapple overtones. The oak is evident on the palate, though there are some tropical fruit notes underneath. Opens with air, developing butterscotch and stonefruit. Gets better and will settle further with age.

Moss Wood – Chardonnay – 2004 (17.8). Seamless and beautifully balanced, this is a superb wine. The texture and mouth-feel are spot on and the finish is near seamless. The quality oak merely caresses the finish on the close and the length is driven by the elegant fruit.

Leasingham – Riesling – Classic Clare – 2005 (17.7). Lovely riesling that is fresh, lively, floral, vibrant, seamless, long and intense. This is a very fine wine of real class. Excellent length. Is showing the first signs of age, but is still very youthful.

Sonoma Cutrer – Chardonnay – Russian River Ranchs – 2008 (17.8). Another superb wine. This is a richer style with plenty of quality winemaking inputs. Think creamy oak, lees stirring and (partial?) malo-lactic fermentation. Again, the mendoza clone is evident, but the pineapple fruit characters are well handled. There are plenty of stonefruit notes and almond to close.

Domain Emilan Gillet – Chardonnay – Quintaine – Vire-Clesse – 2002 (18.2). Very interesting wine. Superb palate with great length. It is the exhilarating acid that makes the finish so memorable. Lemon brullee, texture and spice on a palate that builds and evolves. Excellent chablis with minerals to burn. At its peak.

Domaine Chandon De-Brialles – Chardonnay – Corton – Grand Cru – 2005 (18). Very creamy nose, this wine is a highlight. Intense and powerful, there is still a degree of restraint. Superb fruit, the wine really builds and is classically structured. The minerality on the palate is superb.

Penfolds – Chardonnay – Bin 06A – 2006 (17.5+). Wow. Amazing wine. Young and fresh, the high quality fruit and oak are evident, but not integrated. Has a long future, but needs five to ten years to peak.

Alain Gautheron – Chardonnay – Chablis – Vaucaupin – 1er Cru – 2005 (18.3). A superb wine here. Very tight and fresh, this is a seamless version of fine burgundy. Refined, this is delicate and very fine. Needs years, but enjoyable now. Amazing Chablis.

Rene Lequin-Colin – Chardonnay – Batard-Montrachet – Grand Cru – 2002 (18). Honeyed, long and rich, this is a developed but delightful wine of class and pedigree.

Heidi Schrock – Welsch Riesling/Pinot Gri/Pinot Blanc/Chardonnay – Ruster Ausbruch – 2005 (18.5). Apricot to the fore on the nose, this is really rich and enticing. Wow, immensely intense, yet beautifully balanced and refined. Botrytis to the fore, but the balance is special. Superb!

Guiraut – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Saturnes – 1er Cru – 1997 (18). Very cold. Pungent and raisin-like on the nose, this is a less mainstream and less sweet style that is refreshing yet spicy. As it warms, this opens to show viscosity and texture. Shows lots of almond meal and cashew with air. Delicious.

Le Mont – Chenin Blanc – Vouvray – Molleux – 1997 (17.5). Bread dough and a touch of ferment notes. Shines on the palate with great line and length. This is a very precise wine, that is aged and long. Complex, this really builds in the mouth. Drying finish, this is a delicate wine that shows spice to close. Won’t appeal to everyone, but worth trying.

Castagnia – Viognier – Aqua Santa – NV (17.7). Complex and developed, this is a very intense wine.

Last Sunday Tasting Group

31 January 2010

Aromatic White Wines

As many of you know, this tasting group is the highlight of my tasting life. Good friends and fantastic wines – what could be better? This tasting was made even more special by the temporary return of Brendan Jansen from his Italian hideaway.

Having been set a theme of Aromatic White Wine by Brendan, I had to stop and think – what is an aromatic white? The consensus amongst the group was that everything other than chardonnay and semillon would be OK.

Having a tasting with mainly European wine proved a little challenging, as they have different characteristics and it takes a while for my palate to adjust. Interestingly, the wines were more fragile than I would have expected with most having fallen over by the next day. Perhaps this reflects the wine-making styles and is only a problem if you do not finish the bottle.

Tasted

Max Ferd. Richter – Riesling – Kabinett – Braunberger Juffer – 2000 (18.5). Starts dry and fresh, but has lovely oily fruit and developed characters. The palate has gorgeous Germanic riesling fruit that is super long and focused. The residual sugar is perfectly matched to the lovely acid. Great mouth feel. Reflects the cabinet style well.

Conrail – Riesling – 2009 (18). Very aromatic with lovely citrus overtones. Whilst still quite closed, there is a stunning floral attack on the palate with lemony acid on a long finish. Very morish.

Palacio De Fefinanes – Albarino De Fefinanes – 2007 (18). Almond, apricot, grapefruit and peaches too. The palate is oily and textured with lovely mouth feel. Silky and very long. A lovely wine and surprisingly delicate.

Felton Road – Riesling – 2006 (17.8). A touch more austere to start with compared to the Richter, but the palate is an explosion of ripe fruit with fresh and vibrant acid nicely balanced. Very long, fresh and delicious drinking. A late picked style.

Palacio De Fefinanes – Albarino De Fefinanes – 2008 (17.7). Lemon butter and rind. Long and textured with excellent mouth feel. really builds in the mouth. From Rias Baixas in Spain.

Paul Zinck – Gewertztraminer – Eichberg Grand Cru – 2006 (17.7). Musk and spice lead the attack on the nose. with lychees and almond meal. The palate is incredibly oily and viscous with apricot and lychees. The residual sugar is well balanced by fresh acidity.

Domane Wachau – Riesling – Federspiel – Bruck – 2001 (17.5). Better balance and structure than the 1999, and with less obvious botrytis. Some toast and oiliness on a developed nose. The palate is long, fine and oily, with a touch of spritz. A good drink.

Jean Lionnet – Cotes du Rhone Blanc – Saint Per ay – 2002 (17.5). Creamy and elegant with well judged lees and malo characters. The palate has lovely apricot fruit and the creamy oak is well integrated. Despite all this, the long palate is quite lean, yet spicy. An unusual wine, but great drinking.

De Bortoli – Viognier – 2006 (17). I was not aware that De Bortoli released a viognier. A good effort, with some varietal character.

Pieropan – Soave – 2008 (17). Soave is a blend of indigenous white grapes, and this showed well. Lifted ripe citrus nose, with some herbal characters. The palate has lemon sorbet and lychees. The finish is long, but angular and drying. A challenging wine that is worth trying.

Clonakilla – Riesling – 2007 (16.8). Starts off dry and austere, but has a touch of sherbet, spritz and spice on the palate. The austerity continues through to the end of the palate. Challenging style.

Dry River – Pinot Gris – 2008 (16.9). More pungent with passionfruit fruit. The palate has sweet fruit and a good dose of residual sugar. Long, spicy fragrant and textured. Good mouthfeel too. Quite fragile, so drink soon.

Domane Wachau – Riesling – Federspiel – Bruck – Viesslinger Ried – 1999 (16.5). Honey and orange peel to start from some botrytis influence. Very long with good acidity. This is viscous and oily. (Not the best bottle I have tried).

Sauvignon Blanc

New Release

3 December 2010

In the lead up to Christmas, we thought it would be good to look at a few sauvignon blancs. On a warm afternoon, these wines make for excellent drinking. The surprise for me was the quality of the Adelaide Hills wines. They possessed a drinkability that was lacking in some.

For sheer power, the Paretai by Matua Valley is a stand-out. I would encourage you to try a bottle and let me know what you think. For me though, the Geoff Weaver and the Shaw and Smith are the picks for drinking on a warm day.

Reviewed

Matua Valley – Sauvignon Blanc – Paretai – 2010 (18). Quite seductive nose. This is really forward and powerful with all the tropical fruit characters typical of the style, combined with quality winemaking inputs. There is viscosity and length to the palate, and a silky mouth-feel completes an altogether impressive wine. Incredibly long and seamless finish. A wine to sip, not drink.

Geoff Weaver – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Fresh and clean, with tropical fruit on the nose. The palate is pure passionfruit, with lime juice and a touch of pineapple to close. Impressively long and zesty finish.

Mount Avoca – Sauvignon Blanc – Fume Blanc – 2009 – (17.5+). Lemony, viscous, long and taught. An impressive wine with character. This has had well handled winemaker’s inputs. Not in the mainstream, but very impressive with food.

Shaw and Smith – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17.5). Lanolin and lemon on the nose. Fresh and zesty palate with lime acidity on the finish. This gets marks for being a really good drink. Bring on summer!

Clairault – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17.4). Some tropical fruit on the nose with passionfruit and a touch of lantana. The palate is long, fresh and slightly viscous. Good mouth-feel and texture. An excellent example of Margaret River sauvignon blanc.

Clairault – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17.3). Unusual nose. Grassy and a touch of fresh herbs. Quite powerful and viscous fruit on the palate. Long and dense, this is an interesting wine.

Millbrook – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Very grassy on the nose. The grassy notes continue on the palate with herbaceous fruit carried by lemony acid. Nicely textured mouth-feel. From Margaret River.

Yarrabank – Vintage – 2006 (16.8). Quite a complex nose, with autolysis notes on a fresh nose. The palate is firm but very long. The first impression is that the finish will be a touch hard; however the weight of fruit on the palate carries the wine to a very long conclusion. This is not subtle, but should develop well over the next 5 years.

Voyager Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2010 (16.5). Subtle grass and herbaceous fruit characters on the nose. The palate is fresh and uncomplicated. Good drinking.

Matua Valley – Sauvignon Blanc (sparkling) – NV (16.3). Smells like sauvignon blanc, tastes like sauvignon blanc, must be sauvignon blanc. Light and refreshing with enough fruit weight and complexity to carry the finish. Why? Why not!

Plantaganet – Sauvignon Blanc – Omrah – 2009 (16). Lifted grassy nose that works. Lemony fruit on the palate. Powerful, long, textured and zesty.

Bress – Heathcote Shiraz – Vertical Tasting

Reviewed: 29 July 2012

It is not very often that you get to do a vertical tasting of a single wine. It is even more unusual to be able to taste every vintage ever made. When the winemaker flies over from Melbourne to attend because he has never seen every vintage at the same time, then you know you are in for a special evening.

And so it was that I ended up in the home of my good friends David and Tracy, to taste through 11 vintages of the Bress Heathcote Shiraz. (They also make shirazes from Harcourt and Bendigo). David Marks, the winemaker at Bress and wife Lynne came over for the event and brought tank/barrel samples of the yet to be bottled 2011 and 2012 vintage.

Adam is a real character and I could easily write an article just on him. I will leave that for another day though, as the focus of the tasting was the wine.

Whilst the wine has been produced since 2002, there have been a few changes along the way that have contributed to the ongoing development and success of the wines. The first two vintages were under cork, but from 2004, all wines have been bottled under screw cap. Also since 2004, the vineyard composition for the wine has evolved and changed. The third big change happened in 2006, when the winery moved to Bio-dynamic farming.

So what about the wines? The quality of the wines was excellent, with the best (2006 &2009) being superb and worthy of gold medal points. The vintage variations combined with the changing viticulture really allowed each wine to speak of the place and vintage from which they came.

Of interest was how well the wines were drinking. All wines were double decanted prior to the tasting and even the young wines drank beautifully with dinner. Adam stated that he was trying to produce wines more akin to wines from the Rhone and the savoury characters certainly supported this aim.

A special thanks must go to David and Tracy for sourcing all the wines and hosting a memorable dinner.

Reviewed

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2002 (17.7). Brick red, this is showing developed characters, yet remains very dense. Earthy and mature, with dark fruits, there is still plenty of life to the fruit on the nose. The palate still shows bright fruit with licorice, plum and spice. The finish is long and balanced, with good acid to carry the soft tannins through to the finish. There is not great depth to the fruit on the mid palate, but this proved an excellent foil to roast meats on the night.

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2003 (N.R.). This had hints of oxidized characters and appeared a little old-fashioned. There was some plum and chocolate fruit on a palate that was drying. I can’t help but wonder if this bottle was a touch oxidized. Luckily, the winery moved to screw cap with the 2004 vintage.

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2004 (17.2). 2004 saw a change of vineyard to the Camelback vineyard and a move to screw cap. Fresher fruit on display here, with pepper, chocolate and spice. Starting to show the first signs of development on the nose. The palate has richer fruit in the plum and chocolate spectrum. The length and texture on the finish are good and the acid confers plenty of life. The fruit and oak tannins are just starting to dry out on the finish, but this is a very enjoyable wine that is drinking very well now.

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2005 (17.8). This is a vibrant wine that is full of life. The fruit is forward on the nose, showing an amalgam of pepper, leather, chocolate and spice. The palate has more of the peppery fruit, with quality oak adding depth and complexity. Lovely acidity carries the finish. An excellent drink and the first made in the Bress winery.

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2006 (18.5). The first vintage with bio-dynamic certification. This was a cooler year and the fruit flavours reflect this, however the tannins are perfectly ripe. The palate is vibrant and focused, with plenty of the chocolaty, peppery fruit that seems to typify the style of this wine. The finish is still somewhat chewy, courtesy of the whole bunch fermentation, but this adds to the charm of the wine. The excellent fruit combined with slick tannin management makes this a star.

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2007 (16.8). A fascinating nose here. A riper year with perfumed fruit that is tending to the stewed plum spectrum. The palate is rich and ripe, showing cinnamon, spice and licorice. The finish is warmer, again reflecting the year. A touch atypical, but had plenty of supporters.

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2008 (17.8). A very seductive wine this. Rich and dense, the plush fruit has lovely chocolaty overtones. The palate is flooded with textured fruit that has trademark pepper to close. A wine for earlier consumption and one of the favourites on the night. (David tells me that a second bottle of this was required as this was so popular with dinner).

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2009 (18.3+). Another cooler vintage, and another superb wine. Fresh and vibrant, there are pretty red fruits with lovely floral highlights. The palate, whilst focused, has lovely perfumed fruit that hints at violets. This is a wine of great poise and balance, with excellent length and fine tannins. Lovely now, but will be even better in 5 years.

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2010 (17.5+). Closed and tight, this is all potential right now. The nose is perfumed and silky, with savoury highlights. Very youthful, the palate carries the perfumed fruit and pepper, cherry and juicy red fruits. Softer than the 09, this saw 100% de-stemming due to the vintage conditions. An excellent drink!

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2011 (N.R.). I struggled to assess this as it is very tight and closed. There are, however, the trademark tannins and acid. This was a tank sample and I would like to see this again when it is released, as the wine has potential. This was also a crowd favourite on the night.

Bress – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2012 (N.R.). Still has some of the ferment characters on the nose, but there is no doubting the quality of the fruit on this wine. The palate balances silky fruit with great structure and length. Destined to be a superstar!

Lovedale and OP & OH

The Wine And Food Society of Western Australia

Reviewed: 10 October 2011

Hunter semillon is very Sydney. People (and wine critics/judges) in NSW love the stuff. Outside of the state though, the reception is a little mixed. I think the reason for this is the lack of exposure. With the plethora of white wines coming from regions like Margaret River, Adelaide Hills and Marlborough, Hunter semillon gets a little lost in the crowd.

It was with this in mind that I arranged this tasting. I wanted to get to know a little more about the style and what better way to do it than with a vertical tasting of Lovedale. This is an iconic wine with a show record that every other white wine in the country would aspire to.

The grape resources available to McWilliams are fantastic. Whilst the Lovedale is their top white and the Maurice O’Shea their top red, they also produce the OP & OH shiraz. This is a truly amazing Old Vines shiraz at a bargain price.

The Old Paddock (OP) vineyard dates back to the 1920’s and the Old Hill (OH) vineyard the 1880’s. That’s right, 90 and 120 year old vines! This counts for nothing if the wine is not made well though. The vertical tasting of OP & OH showed a gradual evolution in style. The latest wines are modern, though with hints of their Hunter origin showing through.

I would like to thank Greg West from McWilliams for kindly arranging the wines for this tasting.

As the tasting was not blind, my points are a guide only.

Reviewed

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 1998 (18.5). Lanolin, lovely lemon curd and a developed richness. The palate is taut with plenty of lemony acid. Amazing length driven by fine acidity. A refined and elegant wine that, while aged, has a degree of freshness.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 1999 (18). Actually darker than the 98. Richer and more complex on the nose. The palate is fantastic, with honey and lemon. Falls away a touch before building to a very long finish. Balanced. Classic Hunter semillon with a lovely mouth-feel.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2001 (18.1). More zest to the citrus nose here. Oily, but again with purity of fruit. The length is again a standout. This is still a baby and will probably open up with another year or two in bottle.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2003 (18.3). Again, richer with more body than the last. Incredibly intense, yet beautifully balanced. Develops some toasty/caramel notes on the finish. The acid here is actually softer than in some of the earlier wines, but super fruit carries the finish.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2005 (18.5). Wow, this is spectacular, with so much going on. Lemon zest, lime, vanilla and lemon all vie for attention. The palate is juicy, textured and very long. An amazing wine of real structure and poise. A star and perhaps more powerful than the rest.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2011 (18.5). Restrained and taut. Lemon zest and lime juice to the fore. This is reserved, but totally seamless. Has amazing presence in the mouth for what is a fairly neutral wine at the moment. The acidity and length define this wine.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 1996 (17.5). Wow, lovely nose. Developed, rich fruit. Think plum, mulberry, leather and spice. Very complex and intriguing. The palate is drying out a touch with dried herbs and spice and there is plummy fruit to close, with a touch of dark chocolate. Smelly but lovely. An old fashioned wine and the finish is not as long as some here.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2002 (18.2). Much fresher, with cherry and plum fruit notes. Wow, the fruit on the palate is fantastic. Cherry, but with tar and almost floral flavours. Very long and dense, this is just a baby. Fruit, dark cherries and chocolate carry the finish. A satisfying wine that has some earthy notes starting to show.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2005 (17.8). Closed. This is super fine and refined. Plum, mulberry, raspberry, cherry and tar all on display. Acidity freshens the finish and there is leathery fruit to close.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2006 (18). Fresh fruit here, but quite closed. Super long and refined, it is easy to dismiss this wine as it lacks the weight of the earlier wines. That would be a shame, as the length and persistence are spot on. Builds intensity in the mouth, with white pepper to close. A more feminine wine.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2007 (18 – 18.5). Amazing colour, nose and palate. This has it all. Super fruit and winemaking. The length of flavour is superb. The finish fans out and evolves. An evolution in style.

Mount Pleasant Shiraz OP & OH – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Almost purple in colour. A very tight/closed nose, but the palate is spectacular. Sweet, high quality fruit, and skilled winemaking combine to make superb wine. Very youthful and closed, this will be excellent. Delicate and perfumed, yet there is incredible intensity and complexity. Superb wine!

Shiraz

30th August 2009

As I have mentioned before, the “Last Sunday” tasting group that I belong to provides a real highlight each month. The quality of the wines is usually superb, and the members are great value.

Terry James hosted the August tasting and our theme was non South Australian shiraz. This is a very broad topic, and saw a diverse range of wines. One wine that appeared several times from various vintages was the Peel Estate. This is a wine that can look awkward and clunky when young, but this tasting highlighted that these wines age superbly.

Unfortunately, this tasting was on the same day as the City to Surf Marathon, and I was still not thinking very clearly by the time the tasting started. Take my comments and marks with a grain of salt. The results could have been much worse if it was not for Terry’s excellent hearty cooking. Great work!

Tasted

Jaboulet – La Chappelle – 1998 (18.5). This is seriously good. There are plums, prunes, spice and licorice. The plums and licorice continue on the complex palate. Silky tannins with some developed characters frame the finish. Superb wine.

Peel Estate – Shiraz – 1994 (18.5). Superb fruit and great structure. Dense and ripe, with liquorice notes. The palate is long, powerful, silky, refined and tight. Great length and intensity.

Bailey’s – 1920’s Block – Shiraz -1996 (18). Lovely lifted fruit with savoury notes. Still tight. The palate is grippy, long and structured with spice and anise. Excellent balance.

Castagne – Genesis – Shiraz – 2001 (18). Warm and generous. Spice and licorice. The palate is big and textured with extracted developed characters. A touch of VA adds complexity. Meaty wine.

Mathilde et Yves Gangloff – Cote Rotie – 1998 (18). Focused, ripe and complex. Cedary oak still apparent. Ripe cool climate fruit to the fore with black current, camphor, cedar and some meaty characters. Viognier adds lift.

Murdoch James – Saleyard – Syrah – 2006 (18). Dense, ripe and full of licorice, spice and cedar oak influences. White pepper, red currant and cherries too. The palate has superb structure and length, but the oak dominates the finish right now.

Peel Estate – Shiraz – 2000 (18). Remarkably elegant and fine. Cooler red fruits to open, with a touch of menthol. This is perfumed and silky. Just hitting its straps.

Vasse Felix – Shiraz – 2000 (18). Sweet ripe fruit here with mocha notes. The palate starts off quite lean but builds intensity. Textured ripe fruit that becomes really succulent. Souring finish is crying out for food.

Cape Mentelle – Shiraz – 1996 (17.8). Spice, leather and cedar on the nose. The palate is developed, with spice, anise and leathery characters. Obvious age.

CJ Pask – Gimblett Road – Shiraz -2006 (17.6). Starts off closed and subdued. Demonstrates clear cool climate fruit. The palate starts quite lean and fine, but opens to show bright fruit with some pepper and spice. Supple oak to close. An elegant and refined wine.

Houghtons – Frankland – Shiraz – 1999 (17.5). Some aged characters on the nose, but with some cool fruit characters and a touch of dried herbs. The palate is soft and round and really builds in the mouth. There are earthy and leathery characters on the savory finish.

Clonakilla – Viognier – 2006 (17.5). Apricots to open with creamy floral notes. The palate is viscous and really long, with the floral fruit following through. Almond meal to close with a touch of oak to add complexity. Smart.

Peel Estate – Shiraz – 1995 (17.5). Licorice, leather and cinnamon spice. This is a robust wine with sweet warm fruit. Plush, long, dense and seamless. Fine tannins to close. For lovers of big shiraz.

Red Hill Estate – Shiraz – 2002 (17.4). A cooler style with pepper and cumin. The palate is fine, long, rich and textured. Lots of pepper to close. All the usual wine making inputs.

Bailey’s – Shiraz – 1996 (17). More developed than the 1920’s Block. Leather and spice with fresh acid on the finish. A good wine.

Cape Mentelle – Shiraz – 1999 (17). Leaner leathery style. Long precise palate.

Chateau Coutet

Reviewed: 24th April 2012

I had the pleasure of sitting down to dinner with Aline Baly from Chateau Coutet whilst tasting through a number of vintages back to 1986. It was fantastic to see how the wines evolved over time and also how the different vintage conditions influences the style of a particular wine.

The blend of grapes going into Coutet remains constant; Semillon – 75%, Sauvignon Blanc – 23% and Muscadet 2%. Apparently, the proportion of sauvignon blanc is higher than that used by most other Sauternes producers. The purpose is to make the wine crisp/sharp, even nervy. An energetic Sauternes then? Aline tells the story that the name Coutet means knife, hence they feel obliged to make a sharp wine 🙂

One point that was raised on the night was the amount of bottle to bottle variation with some vintages. Again, the less than perfect cork can be held accountable. We did not try any bad bottles, it is just that with the older wines (’89 in particular), there were differing degrees of development.

Without doubt, the highlight of the evening was tasting the two bottles of Cuvee Madame. Only released in exceptional years and only 100 dozen made in a particular vintage. I believe that there has only been 14 vintages released to date, with the 1997 being the latest. I need to express my gratitude to Bob Winterbottom for supplying both of these wines!

Finally, the 2010 Bordeaux indent has just began, so contact your friendly retailer if you would like to order the latest Coutet.

NB. This was not a blind tasting, so my points are best used as a comparison between vintages rather than in absolute terms. That said, the best wines were outstanding.

Reviewed

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2007 (18). Obvious viscosity and sweetness, though the palate is very fine and taut, courtesy of the lovely acidity. The length is superb with honey, grapefruit and apricot fruit characters. Subtle and delicate, this will build in power and intensity with age.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2006 (17.7). Very delicate and fine, with lovely, floral fruit. There is less of the intense apricot/honey characters here, reflecting vintage conditions. Very closed at this stage, the finish is fresh, fine and seamless. An excellent aperitif.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2005 (17.8). Deeper hue than the 2006. More obvious botrytis characters on the nose, with plenty of apricot and orange marmalade. The palate is more intense, with some of the minerals that the house is (apparently) known for. Powerful and structured, with excellent length, the sweetness is more obvious.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2004 (17.5 – 18). Another intense wine that has both bower and balance. More nutty, with more minerality than 2005. Very intense palate with good length. Did not have the carry and depth of the greatest wines, but the wine really developed character with time in the glass. One to watch.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 1997 (NR).

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 1989 (18.8). There was some bottle variation on the night, though none of the bottles were bad. Fantastic nose showing orange marmalade, apricot, floral notes, minerals and nutty fruit. One taster suggested a hint of Madeira. The palate was vibrant, and impressively fresh for a wine of such age. There was a degree of development, but the powerful fruit and superb acidity give the wine great length and penetration.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 1988 (18+). Lighter and more feminine than the ’89, this is reserved and oh so subtle. Balanced, long, fine and restrained, with citrus highlights, this is remarkably youthful. A complete wine in a lighter style that will live for many years.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – Cuvee Madame – 1989 (19). Remarkably fresh, concentrated and powerful, with marmalade and apricot aromas. The palate is incredible. Amazing intensity, but at the same time, elegant and restrained. Perfectly judged sweetness combined with mouth-watering acidity and a touch of viscosity to make this an incredible wine.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – Cuvee Madame – 1986 (18.9). Youthful! This is another incredible wine that has lovely spiced fruit and perfume. The palate is very exciting. It is fine, refined, very long and starting to develop. This is a lighter style than the 1989, but totally delicious all the same.

Lovedale and OP & OH

The Wine And Food Society of Western Australia

Reviewed: 10 October 2011

Hunter semillon is very Sydney. People (and wine critics/judges) in NSW love the stuff. Outside of the state though, the reception is a little mixed. I think the reason for this is the lack of exposure. With the plethora of white wines coming from regions like Margaret River, Adelaide Hills and Marlborough, Hunter semillon gets a little lost in the crowd.

It was with this in mind that I arranged this tasting. I wanted to get to know a little more about the style and what better way to do it than with a vertical tasting of Lovedale. This is an iconic wine with a show record that every other white wine in the country would aspire to.

The grape resources available to McWilliams are fantastic. Whilst the Lovedale is their top white and the Maurice O’Shea their top red, they also produce the OP & OH shiraz. This is a truly amazing Old Vines shiraz at a bargain price.

The Old Paddock (OP) vineyard dates back to the 1920’s and the Old Hill (OH) vineyard the 1880’s. That’s right, 90 and 120 year old vines! This counts for nothing if the wine is not made well though. The vertical tasting of OP & OH showed a gradual evolution in style. The latest wines are modern, though with hints of their Hunter origin showing through.

I would like to thank Greg West from McWilliams for kindly arranging the wines for this tasting.

As the tasting was not blind, my points are a guide only.

Reviewed

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 1998 (18.5). Lanolin, lovely lemon curd and a developed richness. The palate is taut with plenty of lemony acid. Amazing length driven by fine acidity. A refined and elegant wine that, while aged, has a degree of freshness.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 1999 (18). Actually darker than the 98. Richer and more complex on the nose. The palate is fantastic, with honey and lemon. Falls away a touch before building to a very long finish. Balanced. Classic Hunter semillon with a lovely mouth-feel.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2001 (18.1). More zest to the citrus nose here. Oily, but again with purity of fruit. The length is again a standout. This is still a baby and will probably open up with another year or two in bottle.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2003 (18.3). Again, richer with more body than the last. Incredibly intense, yet beautifully balanced. Develops some toasty/caramel notes on the finish. The acid here is actually softer than in some of the earlier wines, but super fruit carries the finish.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2005 (18.5). Wow, this is spectacular, with so much going on. Lemon zest, lime, vanilla and lemon all vie for attention. The palate is juicy, textured and very long. An amazing wine of real structure and poise. A star and perhaps more powerful than the rest.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2011 (18.5). Restrained and taut. Lemon zest and lime juice to the fore. This is reserved, but totally seamless. Has amazing presence in the mouth for what is a fairly neutral wine at the moment. The acidity and length define this wine.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 1996 (17.5). Wow, lovely nose. Developed, rich fruit. Think plum, mulberry, leather and spice. Very complex and intriguing. The palate is drying out a touch with dried herbs and spice and there is plummy fruit to close, with a touch of dark chocolate. Smelly but lovely. An old fashioned wine and the finish is not as long as some here.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2002 (18.2). Much fresher, with cherry and plum fruit notes. Wow, the fruit on the palate is fantastic. Cherry, but with tar and almost floral flavours. Very long and dense, this is just a baby. Fruit, dark cherries and chocolate carry the finish. A satisfying wine that has some earthy notes starting to show.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2005 (17.8). Closed. This is super fine and refined. Plum, mulberry, raspberry, cherry and tar all on display. Acidity freshens the finish and there is leathery fruit to close.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2006 (18). Fresh fruit here, but quite closed. Super long and refined, it is easy to dismiss this wine as it lacks the weight of the earlier wines. That would be a shame, as the length and persistence are spot on. Builds intensity in the mouth, with white pepper to close. A more feminine wine.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2007 (18 – 18.5). Amazing colour, nose and palate. This has it all. Super fruit and winemaking. The length of flavour is superb. The finish fans out and evolves. An evolution in style.

Mount Pleasant Shiraz OP & OH – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Almost purple in colour. A very tight/closed nose, but the palate is spectacular. Sweet, high quality fruit, and skilled winemaking combine to make superb wine. Very youthful and closed, this will be excellent. Delicate and perfumed, yet there is incredible intensity and complexity. Superb wine!