Hosted by Vanya Cullen

2 July 2009

I was lucky enough to score a seat at this tasting run by Lamont’s in Cottesloe. Vanya Cullen gave us an insight into the wines, and importantly, an overview of the winery’s move to Organic from 1998 and Biodynamic from 2004. We tried 10 vintages of the Cabernet Merlot (now called Diana Madeline) from 1998 to 2007.

To say that Vanya is passionate about the Cullen’s winery and about Biodynamics is an understatement. She lives and breaths both. Her convictions about the benefits of biodynamics stems as much from the principals involved as it does from the benefits that the winery has seen in the vineyard. A healthier vineyard means healthier/better quality fruit. Whilst I don’t quite get the cow horns etc, the aim of a healthier vineyard is obvious (I am a big fan of organic).

Whether or not you full embrace biodynamics or not does not matter though. The real issue is the quality of the wines. Looking at the 10 wines, there was a clear change in the wines from 2004 on. The wines seamed to have great vibrancy of fruit, and also be more approachable early in their live. An unexpected but welcomed benefit has come in the way of the level of alcohol in the wines. Vanya has found that tannin ripeness is occurring as early as 11 Baume, which allows a less alcoholic wine as a result. The effect of this is to allow for a more delicate wine where the fruit can really shine.

If I had to use one word to describe these wines, it would be “elegance”. The standout wines were (in order) the 2005, 2001, 2007 &1998, with all four having supporters for wine of the night. The 04 and 99 were close behind. This tasting re-affirms Cullen’s position as a producer of one of the finest cabernets in Australia and the world.

Thanks to Lamont’s for putting this tasting on (I was there as a guest of JJ). The wines were not tasted blind.

Cullen – Kevin John – Chardonnay – 2007 (18.5). Complex creamy but still tight. Almond meal nuttiness and minerals. The palate mirrors the nose, but also has some grape fruit and citrusy acid. Very tight but seamless. This is the best Cullen chardonnay I have tried.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 1998 (18.5) Remarkable. The wine is still bright and shows fresh fruit. There is also some developed characters and earthiness. Complex nose on this. The structure of the palate is fantastic. Textured and fine with black current fruit. The velvety tannins are still evident. A lovely drink. Drink anytime over the next 10 years +.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 1999 (18.4). Still showing vibrant fruit, with earthy characters developing and a hint of meatiness. The palate is still showing juicy, ripe and vibrant fruit. The finish is complemented by fine tannins. Developing some secondary earthy characters on the nose. Very long.(Second bottle as first bottle corked)

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2000 (17.5). Fresher and more closed and structured. Shows a touch of licorice long with blackcurrant fruit and a touch of spice. Tannins are still evident on the finish. May soften with time.

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2001 (18.7). Closed and subtle, but develops a lovely perfume to go along with blackcurrant fruit. The palate is elegant, but very powerful. Some licorice and spice, though this is all about structure and depth of fruit at present. A great wine with a long future for the patient.

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2002 (17.9). A delicate refined wine with lovely balance and perfume. The palate has lighter fruit weight than some here, the maintains the fine structure and silky tannins that these wines are renowned for. Some chocolate to close.

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2003 (17.5-18). Hard to work this wine out. It is showing cooler fruit characters with a touch of menthol. The palate is tight and closed and characterised by chalky tannins. Could go either way.

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2004 (18.5). Ripe and dense, with re fruits and menthol on the nose. The palate is ripe, rich and dense, yet retains the hallmark elegance of the range. The finish is fine and very long, and the wine really builds with time. Subtle oak and fine tannins round out the finish. An excellent wine with a long future

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2005 (18.8+). Silky, ripe and complex. Wonderfully complex nose, with ripe blackcurrant fruit. The palate has exceptional fruit. It is oh so long, supple and textured. Very fine tannins are firm and the oak provides support. The structure is a highlight. For all of this, it still manages to retain its elegance. This wine is superb, though it requires years to show it absolute best. A superstar.

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2006 (17.5). A fruit forward style with nice perfume. Lacks the structure of the very best, but is a good drink all the same.

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (18.7). Closed and just a touch dusty at the moment. THe fruit is very ripe here, with blackcurrant, forest fruits and a touch of aniseed. The finish is long, dense and really fine. The tannins are very fine indeed. Still retains elegance. Destined to be a great wine.