24 January 2011

Chardonnay is the king of white wine in my opinion. The wines can be made in a variety of styles and the very best are as good as any wine on earth. There is a catch however. It seems that, like pinot noir, chardonnay can be difficult to get right. There is also some debate as to what good chardonnay should taste like.

This tasting highlighted the diversity of styles and threw up a couple of treats. The bargains were the Verse 1, Butterfly Ridge and the White Truck. The Verse 1 is a very good wine at any price and is a great example of the style. The White Truck is new to the market and they seem to have got it right here. Quality fruit and winemaking elevate this to better than quaffing. The Butterfly Ridge I have previously rated as wine of the week.

Several of the more expensive wines were hard to judge. Most were from the 2009 vintage and have not had time to really integrate and show their best. Wines like the Brookland Valley, Devils Lair, Millbrook, and Shaw and Smith are all noteworthy, but all generated debate during the tasting as they will evolve over the next five years.

Reviewed

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2009 (18). A seriously worked style that has plenty of wine-making inputs. Lees, batonage, barrel ferment and new oak all play a role. The fruit is very powerful and absorbs these inputs with aplomb on the palate. The finish is remarkably fine and restrained. Needs a few years to settle down. (Really polarised the panel as some thought it was over the top).

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – Verse 1 – 2009 (17.8). More complex than many here, with some almond meal over quality fruit. This smells expensive, aided by the high quality oak. Pineapple, peaches and more of the almond meal flood the palate. The texture and mouth-feel are very fine, and the length is excellent. Needs a year or two to blossom as the acid is a little forward still. Great buying at under $20, and the wine of the tasting.

Devils Lair – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.6+). A touch more astringent, courtesy of the expensive oak, with pleasant cashew notes. The palate is firm yet fresh, with toast and marmalade characters on the persistent finish. Worked and complex, this is a serious wine with excellent length and quality fruit. Buttery oak to close. Give this 3-5 years to show its best.

Crittenden Estate – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.5) Closed and very fine. Extraordinarily fine wine that has a purity of fruit that is outstanding. There is lemony fruit, with a very creamy mouth-feel and length that is complemented by very fine oak. A delicate wine for the purist. It should be noted that two panellists thought the fruit was suppressed, suggesting a bottle that was not in perfect condition.

Millbrook – Chardonnay – LR – 2009 (17). Complex, worked and powerful. The fruit characters tend toward the pineapple spectrum suggesting the inclusion of mendoza clone fruit. There is also lovley stonefruit, combined with creamy oak and barrel ferment notes on the close. High quality fruit and winemaking has resulted in a wine that will drink well for the next 5 years.

Shaw and Smith – Chardonnay – 2009 (17). Fresh, bright and juicy by comparison, this is still a well made wine with subtle oak to support the quality fruit.. In many respects this is a better drink right now as the fruit is accessible. Not as powerful but dry, long , textured, fine and very young. The epitome of restraint! (Previous vintages have demonstrated the ability of these wines to age and I am sure this will receive higher marks in a few years).

White Truck – Chardonnay – 2009 (16.8). Fresher and more vibrant. Some nutty notes on the nose. The palate is vibrant and fresh, with a touch of viscosity to close. Not complex, but creamy and silky. A blend of Adelaide Hills and Eden Valley fruit, this is a bargain at less than $15.

Palmer – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.5+). Honeyed, with firm oak on the nose – the fruit on this is quite subdued. Well made, the finish builds and has good length. One to watch for a year or two.

Matua – Chardonnay – 2009 (16.4). Again, fresh and vibrant, but surprisingly viscous on the palate. This is youthful, with creamy/buttery components. Good drinking, but just lacks the concentration of fruit of the best.

Angove – Chardonnay – Butterfly Ridge – 2009 (16.5). Again, has creamy textural notes to the fore. Good mouth-feel and fresh fruit make for a good drink, and there is just enough oak to add interest. $7 price = BARGAIN!!!!!!!!