Reviewed: 14 May 2012

Some superb wines reviewed here, but none more so than the sublime Art Series Chardonnay from Leeuwin Estate. The style continues to evolve into an ever-finer style, but the quality remains superb. Some of the more expensive wines did not show well initially. With time in the glass and (importantly) food, a few really blossomed. A good example of this came from Hay Shed Hill. The standard wine looked much better when first opened, but the next day, the Block 6 really blossomed.

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2009 (18.3+). This started with delicate citrus and pineapple fruit on the nose, but it was the palate of this wine that delighted me. Powerful, concentrated, taut, refined and seamless, this is a superb wine. The length of flavours is outstanding, and the persistence is excellent. Seamless oak just adds a slightly toasty note to the finish. Serious, very carefully crafted, with wonderful acid to sustain the palate. Deserves a gold medal, but needs years to show its absolute best.

Frankland Estate – Chardonnay – Isolation Ridge – 2011 (17.8+). A touch more fruit up front, though the palate has intense minerality on top of powerful mendoza clone fruit. Ripe, though there is tingling acidity on a finish that really goes on. Builds in the mouth and will blossom with time. This wine was even better with food the next day.

Hay Shed Hill – Chardonnay – Block 6 – 2011 (17.5 – 18). A very good wine that is just far too young. Patience will be rewarded, so drink the standard release while you wait for this one to mature.

Deep Woods – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2009 (17.5+). Quite closed on the nose, while the palate is refined and supple. Sympathetic oak on the finish tends towards a touch of toast. This is balanced, fine and long, that took a day or two to show its best, but if you are impatient, it is fine drinking right now.

Hay Shed Hill – Chardonnay – 2011 (17.5). I like this. Fresh fruit and acid, with lovely minerality and spice on the nose. The palate has underlying power and is very long, though somewhat taut and unrewarding right now. Even six months will allow this wine to blossom. Excellent fruit, winemaking and creamy (high quality) oak to close.

Juniper Estate – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5). Restrained and reserved, this is a taut wine that, while very well made, is not quite together yet. Oak, lemony fruit and acid are all good, but this needs a year to settle down. A serious wine.

Cave de Lugny – Chardonnay – Macon – Villages – 2010 (17). Hints of pineapple, struck match and curry leaf with a finish that is very dry and full of minerality. A complex, interesting wine that, whilst not everyone’s cup of tea, is a stylish wine that I enjoyed.

The Lane – Chardonnay – Beginning – 2009 (17+). Fresh, tight and delicious with a creamy textural component. This is not an overly dense wine, but it is a great drink. The finish is long and fine with well judged phenolics. Needs a year or two to open up.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – 2009 (17). Peachy fruit that is quite straightforward, though there are attractive worked characters on the nose and palate. Fresh and clean, with a touch of vanillin oak influence adding to a creamy finish. Well made.

Angove – Chardonnay – Organic – 2011 (16.5) A good quality wine here. Lemon brulée over tight fruit characters. Minerals, spice, flint and creamy oak all integrate on a stylish palate. Good length to a wine that is very well made and will be at its peak in about 6 – 12 months.

Cumulus – Chardonnay – Rolling – 2011 (16.5). Well made wine that received very strong support from two panellists. Value drinking over the next year or two.

Drakesbrook – Chardonnay – The Wild Bird – 2011 (16.5). Another well made wine that is not overly complex, but is a good drink now. With solid support from the entire panel, this represents value!

Oxford Landing Estate – Chardonnay – 2011 (16). A delicate wine, with stonefruit on the nose. The simple palate is commercial but sound, with a nice core of acid. Well made and exceptional value.