Reviewed – 30 April 2011

Chardonnay continues to present a conundrum for me. The modern style of wine-making that I have discussed before is definitely my preferred style. The problem is that the wines tend to be so fresh and restrained, that it is hard to properly enjoy them when they are young. Combine this with the widespread use of screw cap and you have many wines that need some cellaring to bring out their best.

Ultimately, the result will be better wines for those who can keep them tucked away for a few years. Fortunately, the use of screw caps probably makes it easier to have a wine in good condition at the other end of the process. It takes a leap of faith to cellar chardonnay, so at least give the wines plenty of air in the glass and see how they evolve.

Reviewed

Clairault – Chardonnay – Estate – 2009 (17.5). Lemony fruit with plenty of zippy acidity. There are quality wine-making inputs with clever oak and some barrel ferment notes. Whilst this is restrained, tight and zesty, it should evolve over the next few years.

Killerby – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.5). More interest here and quite a worked style. There is creamy oak with a buttery texture. The fruit is expressed in the peach spectrum. Lovely mouth-feel, with a creamy textured finish courtesy of the slightly charry oak. Needs time for the fruit to fully express itself, but a smart wine.

Voyager Estate – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.3+). Very subdued initially on the nose. Builds in the mouth with quality fruit and oak. Needs time to show its best, but is a pretty smart wine overall.

Angove – Chardonnay – Vineyard Select – 2009 (17.2). Creamy and very classy nose with plenty of stonefruit. There is white fleshed peach and a touch of nectarine. The oak grip is a touch firm on the palate, but this quickly settled in the glass. This is a bigger, richer style that is quite complete. Great value drinking over the next year or two.

Fire Gully – Chardonnay – 2008 (17+). Fresh, almost fragrant, talc aromas. Fresh and vibrant, though the structural components are a touch disjointed at present. Good oak and excellent length. This is a modern style that really fleshed out after being open for a day, developing powerful pineapple fruit aromas.

Shingleback – Chardonnay – 2010 (17). Fresher fruit on the nose. Fresh and vibrant, with creamy cashew nut textural notes. Not overtly concentrated, and there is only a mere whisper of the pretty oak on the finish. A well rounded and generous wine that has plenty of appeal.

Seppelt – Chardonnay – Grampians 2009 (16.7+). Quite rich, round and balanced. Buttery, almost lanolin. The palate is surprisingly lean by comparison, with an acid structure more akin to chablis. All components are in place, but this needs several years to approach its best.

Umamu – Chardonnay – 2007 (16.5). A pleasant wine with gentle stonefruit aromas and a hint of oak to fill out the middle palate. Very youthful for a six year old wine.

Andrew Peace – Semillon/Colombard/Chardonnay – Peace by Peace – 2010 (15.5). An inoffensive generic dry white. This should be available for under $5:00.