Current Release Tasting
16 October 2010
Following my article from last year on Chianti Classico, here are a few recommended Chianti Classici, and Chianti Classico Riservas, from a recent tasting. Note that there were almost 30 wines at the tasting so the following wines are limited only to those to which I accorded a medal rating. I will keep the tasting notes brief, and try to describe the essence of each wine. I am sure that at least some will be available from retailers in Australia.
Reviewed
Buondonno – Chianti Classico – docg – 2007 (18.2). Complex, savoury, good balance fruit, acid, tannins. 100% Sangiovese 18.2 pts. 22 Euro
Caparsa – Chianti Classico – docg – 2004 – Riserva – “Caparsina” (17). A touch oxidized, which was a shame. Lift from small amount of Canaiolo evident. 17 pts. 19 Euro
Fontodi – Chianti Classico – docg – 2007 (17.5). Clean, with no oak influence, the essence of cherries. 17.5 pts. 15 Euro
Il Poggiolino – Chianti Classico – Riserva – docg – 2004 (17.75). Deep red and unctuous, with some colorino and canaiolo adding spice and lift. 17.75 pts. 18 Euro
Il Poggiolino – Chianti Classico – Riserva – “Lebalze” – docg – 2001 (18). Proof yet again that Sangiovese in the right hands can age beautifully. Exquisite length. Will continue to improve for another 3-5 years. 18 pts. 23 Euro
Le Boncie – Chianti Classico – docg – “Le Trame” – 2006 (18.75). Cherry fruit suspended in ripe tannins, with complex earthy, barnyardy notes. If this means a hint of Brettanomyces, then lets have more! (Apologies to Terry James) 18.75 pts. 26 Euro
Montemaggio – Chianti Classico – docg – 2007 (17.25). The small percentage of unnamed grapes includes, I suspect, Merlot, which gave this wine a softer, rounder feel. 17.25 pts. 15 Euro
Montemaggio – Chianti Classico – Riserva – docg – 2006 (18.25). From a good year, my tasting notes simply say “Yum!” 18.25 pts. 21 Euro
Monteraponi – Chianti Classico – Riserva – docg – “Il Campitello” – 2007 (17.5). Closed and a bit muted but indicative of great structure, and a long life ahead. 17.5 pts 25 Euro
Monteraponi – Chianti Classico – Riserva – docg – “Baron Ugo” – 2006 (18.2). Similar to the other Monteraponi wine, this had added complexity in the form of herbs and spices to add to the core of maraschino cherry fruit. 18.2 pts. 37 Euro
Podere Il Palazzino – Chianti Classico – docg – “Grosso Sanese” – 2006 (18.25). Good palate persistence of red fruit flavours and a complexity that included, I thought, soy sauce! 18.25 pts. 27.50 Euro
Quercibella – Chianti Classico – docg – 2008 (17). A fruit bomb consisting of stewed plums and cherries. 17 points. 21 Euro
Riecine – Chianti Classico – Riserva – docg – 2006 (18.25). A lovely wine with hints of mint possibly enhanced by oak. 18.25 pts 34 Euro. (Their ‘supertuscan’ IGT “La Gioia” made from 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot is also a delicious drop. 18.25 pts. 42 Euro)
As a postscript, a review of 2 wines that are Chianti Classici in all but name.
Il Borghetto – “Bilaccio” – IGP – 2007 (18.5),
Il Borghetto – “Clante” (selezione prima scelta) – IGP – 2006 (18.5).
There is a story to these wines. They are made by the English winemaker Tim Manning. He has worked with Pinot Noir before and has noted the similarities between the varieties. Thus he employs whole bunch pressing and even bottles the wines in a Burgundy bottle. Therein lies the rub – the Chianti Classico Consorzio have decreed that all Chianti Classici are to be bottled in Bordeaux bottles, for uniformity! Though not mentioning Il Borghetto wines by name, the establishment has had to remove the designation “Chianti Classic docg” and replace it with an igp one! In previous vintages these wines were Chianti Classico.
A shame really, especially from a country which tends to take pride in flouting rules! Also a shame because these wines are fantastic.
The Bilaccio was long, complex and rustic with hints of chocolate and coffee intermingled with ripe red fruit. 18.5 pts. 27 Euro
The Clante, similar, but with an added spiciness, more defined acid and tannic backbones, indicating a longer aging potential. 18.5 pts. 39 Euro
Ciao for now!
Brendan Jansen