Tag Archives: Tuscany

Chianti Classico

Current Release Tasting

16 October 2010

Following my article from last year on Chianti Classico, here are a few recommended Chianti Classici, and Chianti Classico Riservas, from a recent tasting. Note that there were almost 30 wines at the tasting so the following wines are limited only to those to which I accorded a medal rating. I will keep the tasting notes brief, and try to describe the essence of each wine. I am sure that at least some will be available from retailers in Australia.

Reviewed

Buondonno – Chianti Classico – docg – 2007 (18.2). Complex, savoury, good balance fruit, acid, tannins. 100% Sangiovese 18.2 pts. 22 Euro

Caparsa – Chianti Classico – docg – 2004 – Riserva – “Caparsina” (17). A touch oxidized, which was a shame. Lift from small amount of Canaiolo evident. 17 pts. 19 Euro

Fontodi – Chianti Classico – docg – 2007 (17.5). Clean, with no oak influence, the essence of cherries. 17.5 pts. 15 Euro

Il Poggiolino – Chianti Classico – Riserva – docg – 2004 (17.75). Deep red and unctuous, with some colorino and canaiolo adding spice and lift. 17.75 pts. 18 Euro

Il Poggiolino – Chianti Classico – Riserva – “Lebalze” – docg – 2001 (18). Proof yet again that Sangiovese in the right hands can age beautifully. Exquisite length. Will continue to improve for another 3-5 years. 18 pts. 23 Euro

Le Boncie – Chianti Classico – docg – “Le Trame” – 2006 (18.75). Cherry fruit suspended in ripe tannins, with complex earthy, barnyardy notes. If this means a hint of Brettanomyces, then lets have more! (Apologies to Terry James) 18.75 pts. 26 Euro

Montemaggio – Chianti Classico – docg – 2007 (17.25). The small percentage of unnamed grapes includes, I suspect, Merlot, which gave this wine a softer, rounder feel. 17.25 pts. 15 Euro

Montemaggio – Chianti Classico – Riserva – docg – 2006 (18.25). From a good year, my tasting notes simply say “Yum!” 18.25 pts. 21 Euro

Monteraponi – Chianti Classico – Riserva – docg – “Il Campitello” – 2007 (17.5). Closed and a bit muted but indicative of great structure, and a long life ahead. 17.5 pts 25 Euro

Monteraponi – Chianti Classico – Riserva – docg – “Baron Ugo” – 2006 (18.2). Similar to the other Monteraponi wine, this had added complexity in the form of herbs and spices to add to the core of maraschino cherry fruit. 18.2 pts. 37 Euro

Podere Il Palazzino – Chianti Classico – docg – “Grosso Sanese” – 2006 (18.25). Good palate persistence of red fruit flavours and a complexity that included, I thought, soy sauce! 18.25 pts. 27.50 Euro

Quercibella – Chianti Classico – docg – 2008 (17). A fruit bomb consisting of stewed plums and cherries. 17 points. 21 Euro

Riecine – Chianti Classico – Riserva – docg – 2006 (18.25). A lovely wine with hints of mint possibly enhanced by oak. 18.25 pts 34 Euro. (Their ‘supertuscan’ IGT “La Gioia” made from 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot is also a delicious drop. 18.25 pts. 42 Euro)

As a postscript, a review of 2 wines that are Chianti Classici in all but name.

Il Borghetto – “Bilaccio” – IGP – 2007 (18.5),

Il Borghetto – “Clante” (selezione prima scelta) – IGP – 2006 (18.5).

There is a story to these wines. They are made by the English winemaker Tim Manning. He has worked with Pinot Noir before and has noted the similarities between the varieties. Thus he employs whole bunch pressing and even bottles the wines in a Burgundy bottle. Therein lies the rub – the Chianti Classico Consorzio have decreed that all Chianti Classici are to be bottled in Bordeaux bottles, for uniformity! Though not mentioning Il Borghetto wines by name, the establishment has had to remove the designation “Chianti Classic docg” and replace it with an igp one! In previous vintages these wines were Chianti Classico.

A shame really, especially from a country which tends to take pride in flouting rules! Also a shame because these wines are fantastic.

The Bilaccio was long, complex and rustic with hints of chocolate and coffee intermingled with ripe red fruit. 18.5 pts. 27 Euro

The Clante, similar, but with an added spiciness, more defined acid and tannic backbones, indicating a longer aging potential. 18.5 pts. 39 Euro

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Fontodi Winery

A Boot-Full of Wine

My visit to the Fontodi winery occurred on a mild summer’s day, organised by my friend Maurizio Colia, who works for Antinori. Arriving a little early (unfashionably so, I might add, as this is Italy). I had some time to take in the breathtaking views from the front steps of the property. On my right was the beautiful hilltop town called Panzano in Chianti and before me lay the beautiful rolling Chianti hills. As is about average for the region I noted that the land was about 40% under vine, 40% still forested with the rest planted with other crops including olive trees.

By way of background, Fontodi produces Flaccianello, its flagship wine, and 100% Sangiovese. Not classed as a Chianti Classico for some of the same reasons that Isola and Olena’s Ceparello is not, the Flaccianello is one of the most sought after wines in Tuscany with a fantastic reputation. Fontodi’s Chianti Classico is at best a cracker of a wine which lets fruit, rather than oak, speak, and at worst one the purest old-style Chiantis around.

Few would have thought that when Giovanni Manetti bought a small piece of land (which included the famed Conca d’Oro, from whence Flaccianello is made) in 1968 that the Fontodi Winery would grow to take on the size it has. The property now comprises 150 ha of which 70 ha are under vine. 90% of all vines planted are Sangiovese, the 10% remaining comprising Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Malvasia. The winery, after a gradual move to organic status which began in 2000, was granted organic certification in 2008. The property even owns its own cow, contributing organic fertilizer!

The soils are primarily of galestro-schist and in between rows are planted herbs such as orzo (barley). The Church of San Leolino, just around the corner, contains the famous cross of Flaccianello, from which the winery’s most famous wine derives its name. All harvesting is done by hand.

Before being taken through a guided tasting we had an opportunity to have a look at the vineyard and then the magnificent new and ultramodern winery (still in construction with a large storage area still to be completed). The winery uses a gravity system. Grapes from different vineyards are fermented separately. Fermentation takes place over 20 to 30 days at a temperature of between 20 and 30°C, and only natural yeast is used. To aid extraction hydraulic punching down is employed. Malolactic fermentation then occurs in either large old butts (in the case of the Chianti Classico for example) or in French oak barriques. Yields range from 6000 kg per hectare for Chianti Classico to 3000 kg per hectare in the case of the Flaccianello.

Battonage is used in the barrels and after the malolactic fermentation the wine is transferred to barrels for further ageing. In the case of Chianti Classico used barrels are used, with 12 months aging; in the case of the Vigna del Sorbo (the Chianti Classico Riserva) 70% new oak is used for a period of two years. In the case of the Flaccianello 100% new oak is employed for 20 months, while the Syrah spends one year in 50% new French oak.

The Fontodi stable owns about 1200 barrels at any one time, and each barrel is used for a maximum of three vintages. Therefore 300 to 400 new barrels are bought per year. They order barrels which have either medium or no toasting.

The large bote or butts are replaced after 20 years.

Tasted

Fontodi – Chianti Classico DOCG – 2007 (17). This is 100% Sangiovese. As mentioned, the wine spends a year and in used French oak. Vines are less than 10 years old in this case, alcohol levels are 14.5% The wine is clean and crisp with an essence of cherries and typical tannic and acid levels of Sangiovese. No French varietal influence here! This is an old-style Chianti Classico and an example of faultless winemaking. For those who think that Italy produces only savoury, ‘dirty’ wines – look for a bottle of this wine at your importing retailer. If you can judge a winery by the quality of its Chianti Classico, this example puts Fontodi among the best in Chianti. 17 points

Fontodi – Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG – Vigna de Sorbo – 2006 (17.5). Made from vines 35 years old on average. It comprises 90% Sangiovese with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon; 70% new French oak is used, as outlined above. This was closed and a touch reductive to start. It soon opened up to exhibit a fine structure (aided by the Cabernet backbone) with elements of dark red fruits and chocolate intermingled on the palate. One for the cellar – for 5 years at least; preferably 10. 17.5 points

Fontodi – IGT – Flaccianello – 2007 (18). This spends, as mentioned, 20 months in new French oak. The oak was evident on the nose and still dominant. Beneath it, a rich array of fresh red fruits was evident with the 15% alcohol not in any way detracting. Acid, fruit flavours and aromas and tannins in exquisite balance, this wine is but a baby and will continue to age gracefully 10 years and beyond. 18 pts

Fontodi – Syrah – IGT – 2006 (17). (100% Syrah grades spend a year in French Oak, 50% of which is new). On the palate green peppercorn spiciness is intermixed with dark red and in particular plum fruit. Not bad for a non Aussie Syrah! 17 points

I have tasted and written about an aged Flaccianello (1994) I have tried in the last year – proving that the variety, in the right hands, and from the best sites, has an underestimated capacity to age.

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

A Visit to Terrabianca

A Boot-full of Wine

Tasting notes from Italy by Brendan Jansen

Number One – July 2009

Terrabianca is a medium sized winery in the heart of the Chianti region, in Radda, located just north of Sienna. It is owned by a German, Roberto Guldener, who now lives in Chianti, and who has strong historical ties to Italy. He also lists himself as the viticulturalist. The winemaker is Vittorio Fiore, a well-known and highly skilled oenologist from the region.

The company produces 350,000 bottles annually. The property consists of over 120 ha of land, comprising about 15 ha under vine and a significant olive tree plantation, at a level over 250m above sea level, in both Chianti, and Maremma, further south in Tuscany and closer to the ocean. Its name (Terrabianca) is derived from the whitish soils of the area in Chianti, which are due to the combination of sand, clay and chalk.

As we drove towards the property, we passed busloads of most likely British, German and American tourists visiting large establishments in the area. Francesco, my friend and point of entrée into the tasting, lamented that many of the larger wineries made lakes, if not oceans, of mediocre wine, assisted by the “Chianti” name, and feeding off the resurgence of interest in Italian wine. Viticulturally, grapes of moderate quality are turned into half decent wine by paid consultants, producing Chianti with an unexciting sameness.

Our arrival at Terrabianca coincided with the final stages of a tasting involving a visiting Brazilian importer. After they had left the full range of wines that Terrabianca produce was open and at our disposal. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot are the major grape varieties grown, with smaller amounts of Canaiolo, Malvasia and Trebbiano. We focused on reds at the tasting.

La Fonte – 2007. This is a 100% Sangiovese wine with 6 months of oak, from vineyards further south in Tuscany, outside the Chianti region, in Maremma, Grossetto. My notes say, “This has cherries and some savoury characters, good length and structure.” I can understand why this is their “house wine” – is a ripper. It has 13.5% alcohol, and I gave it 16.5 pts.

Scassino – 2007. (Chianti Classico) 97% Sangiovese with 3% Canaiolo. This has spent 8 months in oak. It is the quintessence of Chianti Classico, with cherries and some plum flavours. At 13% alcohol, it seemed a bigger wine than the La Fonte, but still an ideal match for spicy food and even fish. 17 pts

Croce – 2005. (Chianti Classico) DOCG Riserva. With the same grape combination as the Scassino, this has spent 15 months in oak, making it more mellow and softer. It was, however, a darker and denser wine with a greater dose of dark/stewed fruit. 17.5 pts

Campaccio – 2005. A blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Cabernet component was immediately evident, with capsicum and cassis notes, but with a lovely meaty, savoury undertow. It has had 12 months of oak treatment, and needs time to allow the wonderful acid and structure to integrate. I loved this wine, and so did Robert Parker a few years ago. 18 pts

Campaccio “Selezione” Riserva – 2004. With a higher Cabernet component (50%) and 24 months of oak treatment, this was a wonderfully deep and unctuous wine with chewy tannins and again that savoury edge. It struck me that Italians do with Sangiovese what we in Australia do with Shiraz – fill the Cabernet ‘doughnut’ with dark fruit while clinging to the structure that Cabernet Sauvignon offers, to create their Super-Tuscans. This has a long life ahead of it. – 18.5 pts.

Cipresso – 2005. We moved on to an interesting set of wines. The first was another 100% Sangiovese wine but not labeled as Chianti Classico and therefore not a DOCG, but an IGT wine. Savoury notes were evident as were the plum, cherry and berry flavours. This time, some liquorice and fennel added to the spiciness. The mouth-feel was wonderful, and belied the commonly held belief that extraction is difficult with Sangiovese. This too has a long life ahead of it – if waiting is possible. 18.7 pts

Il Tesoro (Merlot) – 2005. This 100% Merlot was like few Australian Merlots I have tasted (barring perhaps the Three Hills Merlot from Happs). From their southerly and more maritime vineyards, the differences between day and night time temperatures have added to the acid and structure. The nougat and almond flavours probably derive from the oak treatment, and though not off putting, will further integrate with time. 18 pts

Ceppate – 2005. This is a Cabernet dominant wine (90%) with the rest being Merlot. This wine was closed and fruit flavours had to be coaxed out of it with heavy swirling and time. A classic Bordeaux style, with the addition of more perfume on the nose than I have been used to, this too demands time. 17.5 pts

We completed the tasting by sampling the extra virgin olive oil produced by Terrabianca – a classic Tuscan style – strong and peppery, with hints of citrus – to light up any salad or loaf of bread you would choose to have with it. What did I learn from the tasting? Firstly, Sangiovese, with its many (13 clones) is a versatile variety, and in the right hands, extraction to produce complex and powerful red wine is possible. (Sangiovese is known by many names – it is the Morellino from Scansano, the Brunello from Montepulciano, and even the Sagrantino from neighbouring Montefalco in Umbria is thought to be related).

Secondly, if I were an importer, this is the kind of producer I would deal with. Expert viticulture, modern winemaking facilities, great quality fruit, and every wine in the stable exceptional at its price point.

What is the cost of the wine? Well, in Italy, unlike Australia, wine is cheaper at the cantina or winery. So the wines ranged from 10 Euro for the La Croce, to 36 Euro for the Campaccio Riserva and the Ceppate. What did I buy? A dozen each of the Cipresso and the Campaccio – at 20 Euro a bottle.

Until next time, ciao!

Brendan Jansen

NB. My visit there was organized by my friend Francesco, who knows the current marketing manager of the establishment.