Reviewed – 28 February 2011

A challenging tasting, as some of the wines displayed high levels of malic acid. The wines from Cherubino in particular proved challenging. I have no doubt that, in time, these wines will blossom, but right now they are awkward and shy.

The real hit was the Chardonnay from Alchemist. At around $15 per bottle from the winery, this is a great drink!

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Prelude – 2009 (17.7). Quite closed to start, but hints at grapefruit and tropical aromas. A taught, almost racy wine with plenty of appeal. A well made wine, with the quality oak and structural components playing well against the high quality fruit. Very youthful, this should develop well over 5 years.

The Alchemists – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.6). A complete smelling wine. Nectarine, lemon rind, and some (well judged) phenolics on the nose. Powerful fruit on the palate with some viscosity and texture. Good length and persistence too.. Modern and youthful, with quality fruit and wine-making. A very good effort and excellent value.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – The Yard – Channybearup Vineyard – 2010 (17.3). Restrained, with some stonefruit notes. The palate is balanced, but quite subtle. There is decent length and texture. After sitting on the tasting bench for a few days, this evolved into an enjoyable wine in which the oak is perfectly integrated.

Arlewood – Chardonnay – 2007 (17). Surprisingly tight given the extra age of this wine. The fruit is lemony, and the acid is still tight and zippy. Very long palate with fine, high quality fruit balanced by well integrated oak. A persistent wine that is drinking well now, yet has the ability to take further bottle.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – The Yard – 24 Road Vineyard – 2010 (17). Floral by comparison to some here, with tropical fruit on the nose. Restrained and taught in the mouth, the high acid levels suggest that there has been only partial malo-lactic fermentation. The fruit is fine and structured and there is expensive, fine grained oak on the finish. This is very youthful and needs a year or two to start opening up. One reviewer commented that this wine was chablis-like and another found hints of esters (lollied bananas). Too young to drink or review accurately.

Rosabrook – Chardonnay – 2009 (17). Golden colour suggests a bigger style. Rich and powerful nose. A fully worked wine displaying barrel ferment, malo-lactic fermentation, lees stirring and high toast oak. Some pineapple fruit on a viscous palate. A more traditional style of Australian chardonnay.

Ballewindi – Chardonnay – 2009 (16.9). A more typical chardonnay nose here. Generous, round and soft, but with enough acidity to keep the finish fresh. The oak plays a limited but complementary role. A sound wine with a savoury edge.

Juniper Estate – Chardonnay – 2010 (16.8). Struck match, flint and sulphur with a touch of curry leaf over moderately toasty oak. Viscous in the mouth, this is a bigger style that displays toasty oak, barrel ferment and malo-lactic fermentation notes. Will do well with the crowds.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – Ad Hoc – Hen and Chicken – 2010 (16.6). The fruit is more expressive here, though still closed. Quite a powerful wine, with lemon, pineapple and stonefruit characters. The palate is packed with flavour, though the high acidity makes it hard to drink. Very good persistence, but the wine is a little short in the mouth.

Greed Sheep – Chardonnay – 2009 (16.4). Subtle, creamy, textured, long. There is a lovely vanilla bean flavour running through the palate, complemented by medium toast oak. Some spice and cashew butter to close.