Reviewed: 1 September 2012

This tasting was a chance to look at a few specific wines that we needed to taste. The riesling bracket was particularly strong, reflecting the quality of the Great Southern fruit.

The pinots were more of a mixed bag, with the wines making to this review receiving praise for displaying appropriate fruit characters. The weight of the wines tended to be a little heavier, reflecting their new-world origins.

Finally, the pair of fortified wines from Swan Valley producer Fairbrossen were top notch.

Reviewed

Riesling

Xabregas – Riesling – X – Figtree – 2011 (18.1). Slight residual sugar marks this apart from the others here. Gorgeous, intense fruit on the nose and palate, with hints of nuttiness over lime fruit flavours. There is tremendous length and the acidity balances this wine perfectly leaving the finish dry and fresh. Delicious now, but sure to age well. Cleverly, there is a scale on the label that informs the consumer of the level of dryness.

Frankland Estate – Riesling – Isolation Ridge – 2011 (18). There is a degree of richness to the fruit here. Rounder in the mouth than some, the juicy lime fruit has lovely texture and mouth-feel. With a near seamless finish, this is very good now, yet the well judged acidity ensures that this will also age well.

Arcadia – Riesling – 2011 (17.5). Lovely attack on the nose. Taut, steely, restrained and fine, this is an excellent effort. The palate is gently textured and the steely fruit has lemony acid to close. There are hints of musk and spice on what is a captivating wine. Minerality adds richness to the finish.

Gilberts – Riesling – 2011 (17.5). Fragrant, with delicate perfume and floral characters. The palate shows lemon, lime and minerals with a chalky edge leading to a very fine and elegant finish. Restrained and taut, this would be great in 12 months or 12 years.

West Cape Howe – Riesling – 2011 (17.5). Limey fruit up front on the nose. The palate has lovely zesty fruit that shows minerals, flint and slate. The finish is very steely, though a touch of phenolics adds to the texture and weight. The length is noteworthy. This is a style that I like to age for a few years.

Pinot Noir

Black Estate – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.2). A dense wine that is obviously new world. There is a solid core of cherry fruit that is ripe, yet quite restrained. Coffee, chocolate and a touch of smoky bacon all add appeal. The palate shows fragrant fruit that has cherry and spice over sweet fruit. Fine acid and tannins confer excellent length to the finish. This is quite a complete wine that is a great drink on its own.

Gibbston Valley – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17+). An interesting wine that has lots to like. Dense, rich and textured with sour cherry and plum fruit. Long and rich, this is a big wine. The fruit is generous and builds in mouth, while the ripe tannins maintain freshness. Not delicate, but good drinking over the next five years.

Three Drops – Pinot Noir – 2011 (17). I like this. New world fruit that is ripe and succulent. The palate is long and juicy. Not overly complex or focussed, but an excellent drinking red. A good effort.

Plantagenet – Pinot Noir – 2010 (16.8). Lovely nose. Open and inviting, with ripe strawberry fruit and savoury highlights. Round, soft and generous fruit on the palate with a touch of toasty oak on the finish. Not overly complex, but very good drinking. Appropriate weight for the variety too.

Sweet Wines

Fairbrossen – Pedro Ximenez N.V. (18). Obvious age to the base material here. Rancio aromas over rich, Christmas cake and plum pudding fruit. The palate is complex and layered, with great viscosity. Mouth coating, long and balanced, this is a lovely wine. The finish really lingers and shows more of those fruit cake flavours. Needs no accompaniment.

Fairbrossen – Shiraz – Night Cap – N.V. (17.4). Dense red colour. The nose has a spirituous nose with rich and ripe plum fruit. Port-like, this is quite fresh and vinous, suggesting that the base material is quite young. The palate is vibrant, balanced and dense. There are fresh fruit characters with a touch of volatility. The good length of flavour combines with the ripe fruit to make this an excellent foil to chocolate desserts. Not overly sweet or complex, but a good drink.