Across the month, there were a few wines that stunned the panel for their ridiculous value and quality. Wines that will delight this winter at a variety of price points.
Reviewed
Xanadu – Stevens Road – Cabernet Sauvignon 2021. OMG, this is good. Very good. Outstanding even. The quality of the fruit is superb, but it is the winemaking that takes this to another level altogether. Silky, supple and seamless, the gentle intensity and subtle power (Is there such a thing?) coalesce on the palate to make for an amazing experience. Age-worthy? Yes, but I can’t recall another cabernet of this quality drinking better than this on release. That said, as this sits in the glass, the intensity and structure start to really build. Fabulous. 13.5% alc – 96pts.
Singlefile – Grenache – 2023. Oooo, I like this a lot. Really pretty and supple with wonderful fragrant fruit characters. The palate is slurpable, gently spiced and downright fun. Yet this is a serious wine that should appeal to the connoisseur. The winemaking is very slick, serving to highlight the fruit, rather than colour the wine in any way. May age, but why bother? This provides huge drinking enjoyment right now. 13.6% alc – 95pts.
Singlefile – Run Free – Shiraz – 2023. There is a degree of gravitas to the wine which is surprising for a wine at this price point. There is decent density, texture and structure, yet this remains approachable and very enjoyable at this early stage of its development, with a supple mouthfeel and gentle tannins/acid on the finish. An excellent current drinking affordable shiraz. 13.6% – 93pts – $28.
Mount Langi Ghiran – Pepper Series – Shiraz – 2022. A very smart wine. Supple, savoury notes, red currant/berry fruit. Little in the way of oak. Excellent acidity carrying the finish. A bargain from Aldi. 14.0% – 92pts – $16.
Established in 1993, Picardy have been quietly forging a reputation for high quality wines from the Pemberton region for three decades now. And, when judged as a whole, the current releases are, in all likelihood, the best ever released by the Pannell family under the Picardy label.
Yes, the pinots are very good, but it was the SBS and the Chardonnay in particular that really set the tone.
I can’t recall the last time that John Jens took a wine home from a panel tasting to drink at home, but such was the quality of the Chardonnay, it went home with him to have with dinner that night.
Reviewed
Picardy – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon -2023. Grassy and gently herbaceous, with lemon pith adding complexity. The finish is firm and textured, the mouthfeel driven by lemony acidity. This is much better than a quaff, with gentle barrel ferment characters adding depth and texture. Fragrant, very well made and worthy of decent food, this is one to try if you see it by the glass. 12.5% alc, 93pts.
Picardy – Chardonnay 2023. This is a fine rendition of chardonnay. White peach and lemon dominate both the nose and palate, with subtle oak and winemaking inputs adding greatly to the package. Length and persistence are exemplary, with supple acidity adding drive on the finish. A very appealing wine that, with a few years in the bottle, should build greater depth. 12.5% alc, 94-95pts.
Pannell Family – Pinot Noir – 2022. Lighter and sappier than its bigger brothers, this is a very good quaff. But it just lacks the depth of the more expensive wines. The mineral laden finish is unusual as it evolves into sea spray-like saline characters, and this will come into its own when paired with food. I know it is a cliché, but duck confit would be a great match.13.5% alc. 91pts.
Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2022. A very pretty wine. Cherry, liquorice and spice make up the foreground, with complexity building minerality and an almost ferrous character adding greatly to the finish. This is supple enough to enjoy now (with or without food), but a few years in the cellar will see this build a lovely velvety texture and get even more expansive on the finish. An excellent pinot which is very well made. 14.0% alc. 94pts.
Picardy – Tête de cuvée- Pinot Noir – 2022. This is altogether more serious and powerful, yet magically, comes across as soft, supple and seamless straight out of the bottle. (OK, so I did use a glass). With air though, the power and intensity of this wine starts to express itself more fully. Density, structure, intensity – all the hallmarks of a fine wine. Five years in the cellar will see this start to sing as the fruit opens up and the finish starts to fan out. Again, minerality, and an almost saline tang brings the finish to life. 13.5% alc. 95+pts.
I love good pinot noir, and my obsession with the variety has been fuelled over the years by the challenges of finding high quality wines at affordable prices.
In recent times, the overall quality of Australian pinot has improved in consistency greatly, to the point where there are now a number of (relatively) affordable wines that offer excellent drinking.
The 3 Drops is an excellent example. $40 full price, with discounts for dozens from the winery.
And the panel were most impressed with the 2022 Bay of Fires pinot. At $63 this is not exactly cheap, but it is often discounted making for good buying.
My top pick is the 2021 Drumborg from Seppelt. A bargain at $45 or less.
Reviewed
3 Drops – Pinot Noir – 2023. Gorgeous, luminous colour. This is an excellent wine. There is supple cherry and plum fruit characters, with just a hint of aniseed and earthy complexity. The mouthfeel is defined by the fine acidity which imbues freshness and life. But as this sits in the glass, the fleshy fruit really starts to build. Ticks all the boxes and, while great drinking now, should develop nicely over the next 5 or so years. Made by Rob Diletti, fruit from the Patterson’s Vineyard, the wine spent 10 months in oak, 24% new. 13.5% alc – 93pts – $40.
Bay of Fires – Pinot Noir – 2022. This is a very smart wine, where the fruit and savoury notes play equally important roles. This has depth and intensity and there is a sense of gravitas to the mouthfeel. The tannins add grip and texture, the length and persistence are also a highlight. That said, it is the fruit that is the star. Modern and decent value for a top notch Tasmanian pinot. 13.5% alc, 95pts – $63.
Seppelt – Drumborg – Pinot Noir – 2021. A very interesting expression of pinot, with aromatic spices leading the bouquet, followed by pristine, ripe fruit. So fine and elegant, this is pretty (and delicious), yet it is serious enough to hold its own in any line up. After the tasting, I served the 2013 vintage of this wine, which highlighted the cellaring ability of the wine. Spent 9 months in oak (23% new).13.0% alc – 94pts – $45.
John Kosovich – Pinot Noir – 2021. Pretty berry fruit is overlaid with stalky, whole bunch complexity. The palate is fresh and has a degree of fleshiness that makes it very approachable. But the tannins and oak builds structure and adds greatly to the package. A good drink. 13.5% alc – 92pts. Shepherd’s Hut – Pinot Noir – 2022. This is good. Excellent fruit quality, fine acidity and gentle texture contribute to a supple mouthfeel. Gentle tannin grip and supple oak add the finishing touches. Ticks all the boxes for an early drinking pinot that won’t break the bank.13.5% alc- 92pts – $34.
Bachelet-Monnot – Bourgogne Rouge – Pinot Noir – 2021. Pristine, fine, elegant and focused, with silky mouthfeel and excellent length and persistence. This is not as dense or powerful as some, but makes up for it with great drinking pleasure. A modern interpretation of Burgundy and all the better for it (IMHO). 13.0% alc – 93pts.
Felton Road – Calvert – Pinot Noir – 2022. Oh wow. This is the bees’ knees. Fresh and bright, but with a core of ripe fruit that is most attractive. The mouthfeel, length and persistence are features, and are supported by a wonderful amalgam of ripe fruit, fine oak and skilful winemaking. Ready to go now, or over the next five years. 14.0% alc, 95+pts.
Nanny Goat – Super Nanny – Pinot Noir – 2020. Whilst there is a degree of prettiness to the fruit, this is a structured, cellar-worthy style. It is restrained, taut and refined, but it is only hinting at potential right now. The dark cherry fruit is admirably supported by well handled oak. 13.5% alc. – 95pts – $100.
Ata Rangi – Masters – Pinot Noir – 2020. There is a degree of wow here, but it is not in your face. Rather, it is a wine that demands quiet contemplation to appreciate the subtle, supple high quality fruit. The finish is fine and elegant, supported by gentle oak and feathery tannins with distinct minerality on the close. With air, this blossoms, A wonderful wine and my pick of the 2020 releases from Ata Rangi. 13.5% alc. – 96pts – $170.
It may seem a little unusual for a winery with Singlefile’s reputation to be singled out for value, but the panel was very impressed by the value on offer when looking through a range of new releases from the 2023 vintage.
The pinots appeared in a masked tasting of high quality wines and were amongst the cheapest in the tasting. But this did not prevent them from standing out for quality and drinkability.
The biggest surprise for me though, was the remarkably beautiful Vermentino from 2023. One of my wine highlights this year. Could this be the next variety to shine in the Great Southern? I hope so…
Reviewed
Singlefile – Single Vineyard – Mt Barker – Pinot Noir – 2023. This is in a different league to many of the pinots that the panel reviews. As expected, the pretty aromatic red berry and cherry fruit is the focus, but the wonderful silky structure is what sets this apart. Supple intensity, excellent length and persistence of flavours. Whilst this is a lovely drink now, you can sense that this is going to develop brilliantly in the bottle over the next 5 – 8 years. 13.7% alc. – 94pts – $37.
Singlefile – Run Free – Pinot Noir – 2023. Supple, fleshy and delicious. Not overly complex or serious, but who cares when you can drink a wine this slurpable at a price that is affordable enough to have with a mid-week bowl of pasta. From estate vineyards in Mt Barker and Albany. 13.8% alc. 90pts – $28.
Singlefile – Vermentino – 2023. Wonderful aromatics here. More savoury than floral, but captivating all the same. Lychee and marzipan notes build on a palate that is seamless, gently textured and showing a touch viscosity. The length of flavour is outstanding. I would take this over a SB every day of the week, and it would be brilliant with seafood. My suggestion is to not drink this too cold. Between 10 and 15 degrees seemed to be where it really shone. I can’t recommend this wine highly enough as an alternative to the mainstream varieties that we know and love. 11.9% alc. 95pts – $NA.
Right at the start, let me make one thing clear. The 2022 vintage Farvie reds from Swinney are outstanding. And the wines have been highly lauded, with Brendan Jansen MW going so far as to pronounce the 2022 Farvie Mourvèdre the best wine he had tried in the last twelve months.
Reviewing the wines, however, required the most analysis of any wines that I have tasted in recent times and there was a lot to unpack to get to the heart of these wines. This was because the wines presented in a way that is different to most wines reviewed.
In the end, I tasted the wines over a five day period, with their personalities really developing over that time.
On opening, the wines were extremely refined and elegant, with the extraordinary texture being the feature that underlined the inherent quality. Whilst the shiraz and grenache also showed superb fruit, the mourvèdre in particular was very shy.
One day two, the wines seemed to regress further into their shells, with the textural mouthfeel being the defining character. If anything, the wines were at their least exciting at this point, but provided an excellent counterpoint to a rich lamb ragout.
One day three, the fruit started to come into its own, and the wines started to drink delightfully.
Day four is when it all came together, especially for the mourvèdre. The fruit positively exploded from the glass, all the while supported by the fine tannins and acidity.
Even on day five, the wines were still holding up well, though the structure was starting to break up a bit.
If you are going to drink any of the wines in their youth, then the grenache would be my pick, given its delightful berry fruit. The shiraz is also wonderful drinking, but its best is surely years in the future.
As for the mourvèdre, this is a wine that will handsomely repay time in the cellar. In conclusion, these are some of the best wines to come out of the region, but they are wines that demand your attention to ensure that they give the most pleasure possible.
Reviewed.
Swinney – Farvie – Grenache – 2022. Great colour in the glass and wonderfully pure, pretty grenache fruit on the nose. And on the palate this explodes into life. Yes, it is fine, elegant and structured, but the fruit is an absolute joy to behold. Ripe plum, echoes of liquorice, cinnamon and an almost umami-like savoury goodness add to the enjoyment. The finish is a highlight, as it is silky and finely textured. Counterintuitively, the fruit seemed to recess back into the wine over time and took a full three days to show its best. If you must drink one of the Farvies now, then this is the one that I recommend. 28% whole bunch, wild ferment, 11 months in oak (0% new) 14.0% alc – 96pts – $150.
Swinney – Farvie – Syrah – 2022. The colour in the glass is just amazing and there is sensational red berry fruit. In the mouth, this is very fine, elegant. supple and subtle, yet at the same time this has tremendous impact and wonderful intensity. The length and persistence of flavours is outstanding, as is the purity of the fruit. Gentle spice and amazing texture are supported by the finest of tannins that add silkiness and structure, but do not impede the flow of the fruit in the slightest. Irresistible now, but sure to age for decades if you can keep your hands off it. Remarkably, this had 65% whole bunch in the (wild) ferment. 14 months in oak (0% new) 13.5% alc, 97pts – $150
Swinney – Farvie – Mouvedre – 2022. This is quite a different beast. It is just as fine and elegant as the other Farvies, but here, the fruit takes on a very different tone. Rather than berries or plum, this is much more savoury, with an almost earthy character running the length of the palate. Minerality, chalky tannins and balancing acidity all serve to keep the fruit in check. A fascinating insight into the variety, but also into the way a wine can evolve (for the better) once opened. On days 1 – 3, I much preferred the Syrah and grenache, but on day four, this came into its own, the rich berry fruit positively bursting from the glass. I was stunned by the transformation. 66% whole bunch, 11 months in oak (0% new), 14.1% alc, 95+pts – $150.
I recently reviewed the excellent Cornerstone cabernets and the new release chardonnays are also very impressive indeed.
In this case, the wines come from two contrasting vintages which, if anything, should accentuate the differences between the cooler Karridale region and Wilyabrup which is warmer.
And this played out perfectly in the glass, with the Karridale being full of nervous energy, whilst the Wilyabrup shows more ripe stone fruit notes, despite having the same alcohol.
I recommend getting a few friends together and comparing the two wines. I would be interested to see which wine comes out on top.
Reviewed
Juniper Estate – Cornerstone – Wilyabrup – Chardonnay 2022. This has lovely ripe fruit with almond meal notes and texture/viscosity that is most attractive. The palate has depth and is quite seamless, with pineapple-like acidity building and adding drive and persistence. On the finish, the stone fruit builds and is a feature. Barrel ferment (35% new oak), wild yeast, no malolactic fermentation. 12.5% alc – 95pts – RRP $65.
Juniper Estate – Cornerstone – Karridale – Chardonnay 2021. There is more nervous energy here. Yes, the fruit is ripe but it is the acidity that defines the palate, in a very good way, adding freshness and vitality and bringing the mouthfeel into focus. A wonderful wine that will be at its best in 3 – 5 years. Barrel ferment (40% new oak), wild yeast, no malolactic fermentation.12.5% alc – 95+pts – $65.
Singlefile-Family Reserve-Chardonnay-2022. What a wonderful wine! This is beautifully balanced, combining the best of both modern and traditional chardonnays, conferring a degree of richness and viscosity to the fruit, whilst maintaining freshness and drive thanks to the beautifully balanced acidity. The end result is an irresistible wine of great quality. Nine months in oak (1/3 news), partial malolactic fermentation. 13.3%alc – 96 pts – $60.
Silver Spoon Estate – The Hallmark – Shiraz – 2018. This is quite lovely. Superbly ripe fruit that has been handled beautifully in the winery. This is supple, fine and elegant, with great intensity and depth, though this is not much more than medium bodied. So approachable now, that it is hard to imagine why anyone would age it. but the very fine tannins and polished acidity will ensure that this will keep for a decade or more if desired. Gentle liquorice and spice notes build. 15.0% alc – 95pts – $80
Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Shiraz – 2022. This is fine and elegant, with lots of fine, cedary oak and spice notes to complement the fruit. This is a lovely wine. Silky mouthfeel, near seamless palate transition and intrinsic, though not overt depth and power. The balance is a highlight. A fine wine that will only get better for a decade or more. 13.5% alc – 95pts – TBC.
Galafrey – Dry Grown Vineyard – Shiraz – 2019. A rich, yet elegant wine that is stuffed full of ripe plum fruit, but remains balanced and fresh. The intensity and power are balanced by a nervous acidity keeping the whole package alive and fresh. Liquorice, spice and graphite tannins lead to a slightly chewy close. Value. 14.0% alc, 94pts – $35.
There were a couple of left-of-centre wines that stood out in this tasting. One was an excellent value ($23 from Dans) Vouvray from Famile Bougrier, a delicious, textured summer drink.
Galafrey also contributed a surprise with their delicious, if not mainstream Muller Thurgau. Surely this is the only example made in Western Australia? Definitely worth a try.
Reviewed
Famille Bougrier – Confidences – Vouvray – Chenin Blanc – 2022. This is quite rich, viscous and textured, that has some resemblance to viognier/white Rhone. Gentle stone fruit, supple mouthfeel, excellent length and persistence. This is really very good drinking and outrageous value to boot. 12.5% alc – 92pts – $23.
Galafrey – Reserve – Riesling – 2023. Gentle savoury notes are a feature initially, however the highlight is the palate, which is pristine and pure, with wonderful mouthfeel and texture. The acid drive makes this feel very dry, but I suspect that there is a touch of residual sugar that does wonders in fleshing out the mid palate and making this a superb drink now. But the aforementioned acidity will also confer extended aging abilities. 12.0% alc – 94+pts – TBC.
Galafrey – Dry Grown Vineyard – Muller Thurgau – 2023. This starts off steely, restrained and taut, but with air, the citrus fruit builds with attractive orange blossom highlights. I do not have any experience with this variety, but my feeling is that this will do very well with 5 years in the bottle. A great wine to challenge your wine-loving friends. And an excellent drink to boot. 93pts.
Cherubino – Gingin – Willows Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2022. OMG. This is an absolute treat. Here, the superb fruit has been deftly handled in the winery to present a compelling, seamless (if somewhat youthful) wine with real impact. Stone fruit, peach, viscosity, texture and supple oak are all in harmony, thanks to the superb winemaking. Fine. Modern expression of Margaret River Chardonnay. 13% alc – 96pts.
There is an almost never-ending stream of great cabernets coming out of Western Australia, but they often come with a premium price tag.
However, there is value to be had at several price points as the panel discovered in a large tasting of primarily top-end cabernets this week. Ok, so none of the wines are outright cheap, but if quality is what you are after, then these wines offer superb value at several price points.
Leading the charge is the cracking 2020 cabernet from Victory Point. The Berson family supply fruit to some of the region’s finest wineries, with small volumes made under the Victory Point label. At $55 from the winery, this is one of the great bargains.
A real surprise was the 2018 Cabernet from Galafrey. A good year in the Great Southern combined with mature vineyards and a quality winemaker has resulted in an affordable, age-worthy red of some note.
The final wine is Juniper’s Cornerstone Cabernet from Wilyabrup. From the much-lauded 2018 vintage, this deserves to be popular.
Reviewed
Galafrey – Dry Grown Vineyard – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. This is still just a baby. There are attractive blueberry fruit notes, but straight out of the bottle, this is a bit grippy. Having said that there is no denying the impressive intensity and length of the fruit. With air, and despite its relative immaturity, the palate is remarkably seamless in the way the fruit transitions from front to back. But this needs time. A decade would be a great start. A bargain for the cellar. 14.0% – 94pts – $35.
Victory Point – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. Wonderful nose, wonderful palate, wonderful wine. This has intense blackcurrant fruit supported by very sympathetic, quality oak handling. The red berry fruit on the nose sets the scene, but it is in the mouth where this gets really exciting. The palate is totally seamless and the mouthfeel and balance exquisite, with great concentration of fruit and length/persistence. A magical wine that despite its immediacy (it is delicious right now), is capable of medium-term ageing. 15 months in French oak barriques (38% new),13.5% alc, 96pts – $55. (packed in a lightweight bottle).
Juniper Estate – Cornerstone – Wilyabrup – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. Precise, ripe and so, so approachable, yet there is a serious nature to this wine lurking beneath the placid exterior, with the tannins kicking in on the finish, closing down the fruit somewhat. But with air, the fruit quality really shines, complemented by supple winemaking inputs. 94% Cabernet (Houghton clone), with a splash of malbec and cabernet franc, 17 months in French oak barriques (45% new). 14% alc – 95pts – $80.
Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. Oh wow. The quality and class of this wine just leaps out of the glass, with superb fruit that has both red and blackberry characters. Supple, texturing oak adds to the innate depth and power, but the wine remains lithe and elegant the entire length of the palate. One of the superstars of the 2020 vintage and a huge bargain at $100. 13.5%, 97pts – $102.
Other highlights
Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. The blueberry fruit is an absolute highlight. Pretty, fresh, vibrant and polished. The tannins and oak serve merely to highlight the fruit quality, adding mouthfeel and texture without impeding the flow of the fruit in the slightest. A lovely wine. 13.8%, 95pts. Confusingly, Cape Mentelle makes two similarly labelled wines. This was the expensive one under cork.
Here is a preview of some new release superstars of Western Australian chardonnay. These are wines that every collector should have on their wish list.
What sets these wines apart from their predecessors is the immediacy that they offer. Both the Leeuwin and the Cullen are more delicious in their youth than in previous recent vintages.
The Cullen Kevin John in particular , appears to be a significant shift in style to this taster.
Reviewed
Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Chardonnay – 2021. Just magnificent, and very, very Leeuwin. Ripe, yet restrained, rich yet subtle, intense, yet possessing an ethereal delicateness. Great length, amazing power and sublime mouthfeel, the persistence is a feature. But for me, what defines this wine is the immediacy. Whilst this will drink well for a decade, it is just sublime now. Why wait? 13.5% alc, 97pts – $160.
Cullen Kevin John – Chardonnay – 2023. This is irresistible. I found myself swallowing this without even giving thought to the finer details, such is the immediate beauty on show here. On second taste, this has ripe, bright peachy fruit, that has surprising viscosity and a wonderful mouthfeel. The acid and oak are completely invisible, but play an important role in maintaining the flow on the palate. This is clearly different in style to recent Kevin John chardonnays, but no less compelling. Drink now and be happy. 13.5% alc – 95-96pts – $TBC.
Howard Park – Allingham – Chardonnay – 2022. A taut, restrained wine that has wonderful line and length, but needs 2 – 4 years for the fruit to unwind and fully assert its power and quality. The taut acidity is a feature, as is the seamless oak and winemaking additions. The length is a highlight. 12.5% alc – 95pts – $100.
