Barry Weinman – May 2026

Some days in wine are more remarkable than others. And so it was when John Jens reached out to ask whether he could bring around the new Henschke reds from the 2022 vintage.

To taste the Hill of Grace or Mount Edelstone is a rare treat. To taste them side by side, alongside the Wheelwright and the Hill of Roses, was an extraordinary privilege — and the wines did not disappoint. Whilst the sheer quality was a given, the highlight for me was the subtle variations in style that each vineyard presented.

2022 in the Barossa was a cooler, more finely structured vintage — less powerful and opulent than 2021, and more elegant and precise. This allowed the personality of each wine to express itself with particular clarity.

NB: The wines were not tasted blind, so points are indicative only. After all, who could avoid being influenced when, with the Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone, you know you are about to drink one of the world’s great red wines.

A special thanks to John Jens at Lamonts in Cottesloe for making this tasting possible!

Reviewed

Henschke – The Wheelwright – Shiraz – 2022. The first impression is one of subtlety and precision. There is ripe berry fruit, but it takes on an almost ethereal quality. The palate is a case study in elegance: everything is perfectly in place, supple and near-seamless in the way the fruit transitions along the tongue. The textural components add depth and complexity without ever being obtrusive. The persistence of fruit on the finish is a highlight. This is something of a chameleon — impressive now, yet certain to age beautifully for two decades in the right conditions. With air, the tannins become more impactful and the fruit retreats slightly; if drinking young, give it an hour or two in a decanter. The fine tannins are drying in a positive sense, and the minerality builds. A complete wine. Matured in French oak (10% new) for twenty months. 14.5% alc | 95–96 points | $165

Henschke – Mount Edelstone – Shiraz – 2022. In contrast to The Wheelwright, the Mount Edelstone has far greater initial impact on the nose. There is no escaping the sheer intensity of the ripe, almost opulent fruit. On the palate, a seemingly never-ending cascade of berry and plum flavours floods the tastebuds, whilst the minerality — driven, I suspect, by the acidity — is much more evident. Whilst it appears at first glance barely more than medium-bodied, there is tremendous latent power sitting behind the fruit, with the oak and tannins adding depth, texture and structure as the perfect foil. Stupendous. John Jens suggests this is the greatest Mount Edelstone ever produced. I am not going to argue. Aged for twenty months in French oak (8% new). 14.5% alc | 97 points | $300

Henschke – Hill of Roses – Shiraz – 2022. A completely different expression of Barossa shiraz. Here the oak has been wound right back, and a soaring acidity plays a far greater role in defining the wine, giving it great drive and energy whilst making it relatively unapproachable without food. In twenty years, I am confident this will come into its own — and you can always drink The Wheelwright in the interim. Matured in 100% seasoned French oak casks for twenty months. 14.5% alc | 95 points | $495

Henschke – Hill of Grace – Shiraz – 2022. On the nose, this combines the subtle suppleness of The Wheelwright with the power and sheer depth of the Mount Edelstone. The fruit sits in the just-ripe plum spectrum, tinged with cherry and transitioning to blueberry. Yet nothing could prepare me for the palate. The sheer depth of fruit left me slightly weak at the knees and almost light-headed with delight. Is this the perfect wine? Quite possibly. I could not imagine a more profound wine anywhere in the world. There can be only one Hill of Grace, and I am extremely fortunate to have had the privilege of tasting it. Matured in 100% seasoned French oak casks for twenty months. 14.5% alc | 98–99 points | $1,100

Barry Weinman – May 2026

With the cooler weather settling in, it is the perfect time for pinot noir. Last week’s panel tasting presented a number of wines well worth seeking out.

The most surprising wine was Singlefile’s 2024 Run Free Pinot Noir. How a wine of such quality can be sold for $30 is beyond me. The 2024 pinot from Battles is the first release of the variety from this producer, and it is a cracker. And the Picardy and Singlefile Family Reserve pinots showed the more serious side of the variety.

Reviewed

Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2024. Very pretty, ripe cherry fruit — delicious and impactful. I love the way the acidity plays against the fruit, adding energy and drive in conjunction with the fine, supple tannins. The textural components present as much as minerality as they do in the more traditional mouthfeel sense. Excellent length and persistence of flavour. An excellent drink now and over the next five years; the attractive fruit makes this highly approachable. Just as at home with food as it is on its own. 14.0% alc | 94 points | $60.

Battles – Pinot Noir – 2024. The purity here is simply stunning. The fruit is cherry-tinged, but also carries raspberry and blackcurrant notes. The palate is fine and elegant, supported by supple tannins and fine, vibrant acidity. Hints of earthy complexity add to the package, cascading into fine tannins and oak. These characteristics do not dull the fruit, but it is clear that a few years in bottle will see this grow in power and stature. A very fine wine indeed. Fruit comes from the Shepherd’s Hut vineyard in Porongurup. 13.5% alc | 95 points | $40

Picardy – Tête de Cuvée – Pinot Noir – 2023. A lot more structured and powerful. It has the same minerality as Picardy’s estate pinot, but everything has been turned up a notch. The effect is to render this somewhat closed straight out of the bottle — everything is there, but it needs five to seven years in the cellar to really hit its straps. The acidity is the driving force on the finish; and while it does keeps the fruit in check at this early stage, it also adds great drive to the palate. 13.5% alc | $120.

Singlefile – Family Reserve – Pinot Noir – 2024. Whilst the nose is somewhat subdued, the palate bursts to life with pinot goodness. This has the power and intensity you see in the best Central Otago wines, but with more structure supporting the fruit. A powerful wine with cherry-like fruit, spice and supple oak. Excellent purity and depth, with a seamless finish. A fascinating wine to drink now, though it will take another step forward with five to ten years in bottle. Clones 777 and D5V12; eleven months in French oak barriques (30% new). 14.3% alc | 95 points | $65.

Singlefile – Run Free – Pinot Noir – 2024. Surprising structure and power for a wine at this price point, yet the beautifully ripe fruit remains the star. There is weight here, taking on tones of grenache. Despite the power and structure, this remains totally approachable and delivers genuine pleasure right now, or over the next few years. With air, the fruit takes on a degree of plushness that is most captivating. A versatile wine that, like a chameleon, adapts to numerous drinking occasions. Fruit sourced from Mount Barker; matured in oak for approximately nine months. Ridiculous value. 14.2% alc | 95 points | $30

Barry Weinman: May 2026

Across various blind tastings conducted over the last few weeks, these are some of the standout wines.

Reviewed

Mann – Cygne Blanc – Sparkling – 2023. Quite a bit richer in colour than a typical pinot/chardonnay blend, taking on a golden straw hue. What struck me most about this wine is just how enjoyable it is to drink. Very supple, with a delicious generosity to the fruit profile. The finish is quite rich and round, but with excellent acid balance to keep things fresh and alive, and very good length of flavour — tending to bold rather than subtle, but not heavy. The residual sugar is an important addition, contributing richness and mouthfeel. A delightfully different expression of sparkling wine, unique to the Swan Valley. 12.5% alc | $50

Singlefile – Great Southern – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – NV. A very impressive wine. There is real depth and power to the fruit, supported by a degree of richness from the autolytic characters. The blend is 84% chardonnay and 16% pinot noir, with the former the driving force, contributing the citrus fruit characters. The gentle autolytic characters add depth and texture, showing subtle brioche and dough notes. A superb wine equally at home with fine food as it is on its own. A blend of seven different vintages spanning 2015 to 2021, with a proportion of fruit from Pemberton. Spent four years on lees and, with a dosage of only 3 g/l, this could be classified as extra-brut. Available exclusively from the cellar door due to limited production. 12.5% alc | 95 points | $60.

Singlefile – Riesling – 2025. Packed full of lime juice and lifted florals, but it is the minerality that grabs your attention — and the way the palate flows uninterrupted to a very long finish, despite the zesty acidity. A remarkable feat: the palate is supple and textured, with no rough edges whatsoever. Despite being a delicious and brillaint drink now, this will only improve with time in bottle, developing richness and power as the fruit slowly unwinds. The subtle phenolics and whisper of residual sugar elevate it further. The team at Singlefile suggest 2025 was a great year for riesling in the region — and with wines like this, I am not going to argue. A bargain. 12.5% alc | 95 points | $28

Singlefile – Run Free – Pinot Grigio – 2025. A lovely wine. Floral aromatics combine with gentle viscosity and great acid balance. Most noteworthy is the length of flavour, with the grapey fruit making an impact along the full length of the palate. Fresh enough to make this a great afternoon drink, yet with enough savoury structure to be an excellent companion to lighter foods. 12.9% alc | 93+ points | $28

Vasse Felix – Filius – Sauvignon Blanc – 2025. “Yum” is not a term I normally reach for with sauvignon blanc, but it fits here. Not overly complex, yet this has presence, depth and a mouth-coating texture that is quite remarkable. The fruit and texture linger for an age, developing gentle nutty characters. Almost chewy. In the blind tasting I was at a loss to identify the variety, but it is delicious and would be a great counterpoint to a mushroom risotto or grilled chicken. 100% of the wine was matured in seasoned oak barrels. 13.0% alc | 93 points | $28.

Here are three of the highlights from the last few weeks of tasting.

The 2023 Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay is another stunning rendition of this wine, and the 2023 Moss Wood cabernet is the best young Moss Wood that I have tasted in several years.

And a wine that I know nothing about, but charmed the panel was the Thunderstone Pinot Noir 2024. Great stuff!

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Chardonnay – 2023. A totally sublime wine. The perfect intersection between fruit weight, ripeness, acidity and oak. Plenty of ripe peach, but this is complemented by more savoury almond-like nuttiness and distinct minerality on the palate. I can even imagine a hint of sea-spray on the finish. Great length and persistence of flavours, with the textural components continuing to excite long after the fruit has dissipated. Lime notes too close. A superstar! 13.5% alc | 97 points

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. Wow. Whilst this was served a little warm (it has been a warm March), the underlying quality is hard to ignore. Depth, power and precision are the hallmarks of this wine. Silky, supple, with a degree of plushness that is most attractive. It is the density and complexity of fruit that stands this apart. The best Moss Wood that I have tried in several years. 14.0% alc | 96 points

Houghton – Gladstones – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. This is a superstar. Intense, powerful, sublime. The fruit quality is stunning, and the winemaking does not get any better. Spectacular. Silky and powerful, at the same time. A bargain! 96 points

Thunderstone – Porongurup – Pinot Noir – 2024. Looks, smells and tastes like pinot, which is a great start. But there is much more to this wine. There is a degree of intensity and gravitas to the high-quality fruit. On the nose, the fruit presents as strawberry, whilst on the palate, this takes on a cherry tone, with savoury notes really adding to the palate. The mouthfeel is excellent and, whilst not exactly plush, is near seamless and very commendable. The refreshing acidity is an important, and positive contributor. An excellent drink now, but will be even better with a couple of years in bottle. A very appealing wine. 13.5% alc | 95 points | $67

Barry Weinman: April 2026

Reviewing these wines (as part of a range of blind tastings) was a highlight of the wine week for me.
The wines really are very good, and the contrast between the chardonnays is fascinating. Over a couple of days, my favourite fluctuated back and forth. Ultimately, I prefer the Piccadilly now, and would like to see the Lenswood in a few years — and I absolutely loved the Pinot Noir.

With both the chardonnays and pinot, I was surprised to see that the vintage was 2025, given that the 2024s — and, in the case of the Leeuwin Art Series, the 2023s — from Margaret River are only just coming to market.

Regardless, when the wines are this good, the question is largely academic.

Reviewed

Grosset – Lenswood – Chardonnay – 2025. Wow. This is seriously impressive. Precise, laser-focused fruit is the star, but there is so much more to this wine. Intensity? Sure, but there is also balance and there is a degree of harmony. The acidity is the unsung hero in this wine, adding excitement and verve. The palate is basically seamless, but at this early stage, is full of nervous energy, giving insights into the ultimate quality. 13.2% alc | 96 points | $97

Grosset – Piccadilly – Chardonnay – 2025. Another cracking wine, and more approachable than the Lenswood at this stage. This is such a good drink, with the ripe fruit taking on a fleshy, juicy component. The oak adds impact but is not overdone. Despite the charming approachability, this is a serious, powerful wine. That power and depth gradually evolves over time in the glass, highlighting the quality of both the fruit and the winemaking. Exciting! 13.2% alc | 96 points | $97

Grosset – Pinot Noir – 2025. Wow. Wow. WOW. For what is only a very medium bodied red, it is hard to comprehend how they have packed so much complexity and quality into this wine. Pristine fruit has cherry overtones, but also savoury complexity. The mouthfeel is a highlight, the textural notes complementing the fruit. Seamless, this is incredibly moreish. Lovely, pretty, very youthful, this is a stunning effort that can be drunk with confidence any time over the next decade. 13.5% alc | 95.5 points | $97

Barry Weinman: 25th March 2026

Hot on the heels of the brilliant Cullen Kevin John and Pierro chardonnays from the 2024 vintage comes the trio of premium wines from Vasse Felix.

If you needed any further proof of the potential of the 2024 vintage for premium chardonnay in Margaret River, these three wines deliver that in spades.

Whilst the quality is the reason for this review, it is the contrasting styles between the three wines that are the most interesting part of the story. Same winery, same winemakers, same region, but each is a unique expression of high-quality chardonnay.

True to form, the Heytesbury is intense and powerful, with plenty of winemaking inputs on show, combined with an elegance and beauty to the wine that elevates this to the highest echelon of wines.
In contrast, the DHH1 retains the intensity of fruit, but here, the winemaking inputs have been stripped back, allowing the pristine, ripe fruit to stand in the spotlight. The biggest surprise for me was that this was 100% Gingin clone, as is the Heytesbury.

And sitting comfortably between these styles is the Premier chardonnay. Whilst this does not have the ultimate quality of the other two, it makes up for this by being absolutely delicious drinking

Reviewed

100% Gingin clone fruit, wild ferment, 10 months in French oak (53% new), with a smattering of puncheons (15%) and the remainder smaller barriques. 80% of the wine went through malolactic fermentation, attenuating the natural acidity. 13.5% alc | 97 points | $140

Vasse Felix- DHH1 – Chardonnay – 2024. This has a lot more in common with the Premier than it does with the Heytesbury, but like the latter wine, the intensity has been turned up to 11. This intensity comes primarily from the spectacular fruit, with the winemaking components more subdued compared to the first wine. Interestingly, the fruit profile is more grapefruit than peach, and there are no tropical characters to be seen anywhere. What is most remarkable is how the acidity is a defining feature of the wine, yet does not impart any aggressiveness whatsoever. As good as it is now, it will be even better in 3–5 years. 100% Gingin clone, 100% malolactic fermentation, 11 months in one- to four-year-old oak. 13.5% alc | 96 points | $80

Vasse Felix – Premier – Chardonnay – 2024. A lovely wine that stylistically, straddles the middle ground perfectly. Not as intense or intrinsically powerful as the Heytesbury, powerful as the Heytesbury, but this is more than compensated for by an approachability and drinkability that is most attractive. The stone fruit characters are the primary feature, the winemaking taking a back seat on the palate. That said, the oak is clearly of high quality and very well handled, adding palate richness rather than overt flavours. Perfect for a sunny afternoon, catching up with friends and enjoying the simple things in life.
90% Gingin clone fruit, with a trio of Bernard clones making up the clonal mix. Wild ferment, 10 months on lees, 10 months in oak barriques (30% new). 13.5% alc | 95 points | $46

Leo Buring Riesling: When less is more

March 2026

We put the current release Leo Buring rieslings against some of WA’s best, and they stood out for both quality, and for the slightly different fruit profile associated with South Australia as compared to Frankland River

The other remarkable feature was that the alcohol content of both wines is 10.5%. I find this particularly exciting. To put this in perspective, drinking half a bottle of this has approximately the same alcohol as drinking two full-strength cans of beer.

Ultimately, however it was the quality and, with the Eden Valley in particular, the value that was most impressive.

Reviewed

Leo Buring – Eden Valley – Riesling – 2025. This is fine, elegant, delicate and subtle. It is also supple and incredibly good drinking. The persistence and length of flavours are outstanding. Those flavours are primarily at the front of the palate, with the fruit characters giving way to ever-so-fine structural components along the length of the tongue. Think minerals, talc and texturing acidity. The acidity is more of a sensation than overt character. The nose is very pretty, with hints of musk, lime, and an almost nectarine character. There is an immediacy to this wine that is captivating. A tremendous bargain. 10.5% – 95pts.

Leo Buring – DWC 17 Leonay – Riesling – 2025. Another cracking wine, but this is more intense, with the juicy, lime-laden fruit the defining feature. Excellent length and persistence, but has remarkable restraint to the high quality fruit. And the superb balance is a highlight. A sleeper of a wine, where experience tells me that this will be a superstar. Built for the long haul. 10.5% – 96pts.

February 2026

Here are my picks of the best wines that the panel has reviewed in the last week or so.

Reviewed

Sittella – Avant-Garde – Albarino – 2025. Very attractive with a nutty, almond meal/apricot kernel complexity. The palate is textured and moreish, with the nutty notes complemented by a saline minerality that adds texture and depth, with gentle viscosity further enhancing the palate. Great length is driven by fine acidity. Yum, as it warms this gets so much more expressive — and even better. Delicious with food or alone. 13.5% alc – 95pts – $33.

Victory Point – Chardonnay – 2022. Very interesting wine, and very good indeed. This is tight. But it is not austere or mean. Rather, it is shy and restrained, and full of potential. Stone fruit is the key character, but here this is more in the apricot kernel spectrum, rather than ripe peach. And there is a nutty character that complements this well. The viscosity is a highlight and the wine is textural, but seamless for all intents and purposes. 95pts – $55.

Victory Point – The Mallee Root – Cabernet/Malbec – 2023. Oh wow. This is most impressive. So fine, so elegant, so good. There is density and power, but this is in a restrained, elegant style. The fruit is perfectly ripe and oh so long. Blackberry, brambly fruit, texturing oak and fine, structuring tannins and incredible length of flavours. Remarkably, for a wine of this price, it could take 5 – 10 years in the cellar for the fruit to fully express itself, but it is fabulous now, all the same. A lovely, middle weight wine that is unbelievable value. 95pts – $29.

Xanadu – Malbec – 2023. Fragrant and oh so succulent, this is a mouthful of happiness. Unlike the last, this is more structured, with fine (though notable) tannins and supple oak influence. These do not interfere with the fruit, but they do make this a bigger, more robust style at this early age. Whilst this will be fabulous now with grilled lamb chops, I feel that 5 years in the cellar will see this progress further. Superb length. Excellent fruit. 95pts – $45.

Nocturne – Sheoak Vineyard – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. This is a slightly different expression of Margaret River cabernet, and all the better for it. Here, there is none of the cooler, menthol and eucalypt notes. Rather, there is ripe, precise and somewhat restrained red currant fruit. Lovely fruit on the palate, with texturing fruit/oak tannins adding supple texture and mouthfeel. Seamless, for all intents and purposes, but also restrained on the close, as the tannins gently blanket the fruit. Yet this remains very good now, but will be even better in 10+ years. 95pts.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. This has much more overt power, the fruit combining with the tannins and oak to make an immediate impact. Whilst not quite seamless, the flow of fruit on the palate is excellent, with the structural components kicking in on the finish to make for an excellent wine. As this sits in the glass, the fruit builds and gets even more impressive. Sumptuous and delicious! Drink now – 10+ years. A serious wine that is excellent value. 95pts.

Victory Point – Cabernet/Franc – 2024. Oh wow. This is a gob full of delicious berry fruit. This is lighter bodied, with vibrant, flamboyant fruit that is just delightful. The fruit is complemented by the finest of tannins, and oak is nowhere to be seen. I find it hard to imagine a better current-drinking Margaret River red. Extra points for the happiness it brings me. 94pts.

Xanadu – Stevens Road – Chardonnay – 2023. Oh wow. It has been a little while since I saw this wine last, and the palate has really filled out. It is not so much about fruit power, rather, it is about the gorgeous texture and creamy mouthfeel. The brilliant oak use is an important contributor to this wine, imparting texture and complexity, without adding any specific flavours. The winemaking has also been pared back, with the lees and barrel work imperceptible in the final product. Superb 96pts.

Cullen 2023 Prestige Reds

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. This is somehow both profound and lithe at the same time. The nose leads with beautiful blueberry notes, along with floral highlights. I can almost imagine violets. The palate is silky and very elegant, with the fruit supported by a lattice of very fine oak and tannins that add texture, but in no way impede the flow of the fruit. The length is outstanding. A very fine wine indeed. The tannins and oak are exquisite. 13.5% alc – 96pts.

Cullen – Vanya – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. This is breathtakingly good. It has so much of everything, yet is fine, elegant and restrained at the same time. It is impossible to do this wine justice in a review, as it continually evolves on the palate for what seems like minutes. The fruit is exquisite, and the texture sublime. The incredible length and persistence are a highlight, as is the seamless palate transition. Never-ending cascade of fruit. Opulent. Interestingly, this is made from 100% Cabernet. 13.5% alc – 98pts +.

Lamonts Cottesloe: 26th January 2026

One of the most popular tastings that the team at Lamonts put on is Australasia’s best pinot noirs that are currently or soon to be available.

As expected, wines such as Mount Mary and Bass Philip starred, but it was some of the more affordable wines that really grabbed my attention. None more so than the 3 Drops 2023 pinot. A brilliant wine for around $35.

Castle Rock was another value pick, with the Dilletti showing very well indeed. And from Tasmania, the Bream Creek is a superb wine and another bargain at $50.

Here are my highlights. All wines were tasted blind and I was not aware of the composition of the tasting.

Reviewed

3 Drops – Pinot Noir – 2023. The pristine fruit is taken to another level here by the addition of some lovely earthy, savoury notes. The fruit quality is outstanding, and the winemaking is spot on. There is just enough grip and structure to make this serious, but not enough to overwhelm the vibrant fruit. The persistence of flavours is truly outstanding and the length a highlight. The finish is lithe, fresh, supple, the oak a textural component, rather than an overt character. Food optional, such is the prettiness. Now – 5 years. Insane value. 95pts – $36.

Castlerock- Dilletti – Pinot Noir – 2024. Pretty, pretty fruit that is floral and beautifully perfumed. This really is a highlight. It is not the most densely structured wine in the tasting. Rather it is lithe, elegant and polished. But do not underestimate this wine. Lurking beneath the pretty façade is a serious side with structure building with air and in the mouth. Great now, but even better in 5 years. 95.5pts – $55.

Picardy – Tete de Cuvee – Pinot Noir – 2021. Cherry and supple, subtle spice to the fore on the nose which also leads on to the palate. There is a bit of wow here, as the balance is spot on. I love the way the acidity plays across the palate, giving the fruit energy and drive. This is a subtle wine, and easy to overlook, but it is seriously good and worthy of your attention. Excellent value in this line up. 95.5pts.

Tolpuddle – Pinot Noir – 2023. Oh, this is good. I mean very good. There is density to the fruit and a supple, silky texture that is very attractive. This reminds me of Central Otago, given the succulent, fleshy fruit and silky structure. And it is oh so delicious and gluggable. Great oak and fruit. 95pts.

Marchand & Burch – Mount Barrow – Pinot Noir – 2023. Another fine, elegant wine. The fruit is subtle and almost delicate, though there is innate power sitting behind the façade. Cherry, berry and spice fruit notes lead on to super fine, texturing tannins and oak. The latter adding no overt flavours, instead adding lovely texture and mouthfeel. Wonderful fruit. 95.5pts.

Yarra Yering – Pinot Noir – 2023. Whilst there is more overt power here, this still remains balanced and almost silky in the way it caresses the palate. The fruit is quite exquisite, with berry notes the defining feature. The fruit is supported by a supple savoury lift that adds interest and depth. Ethereal, this is a beautiful wine. 96pts.

Bream Creek – Pinot Noir – 2023. Minerality leaps out of the glass, but this quickly gives way to pristine, cherry-like fruit. Supple, silky and refined, there are no rough edges at all. This is not plush, rather it is refined and elegant, but it is very silky and dare I say it… sexy. A beautiful wine and very new world in style given the pristine fruit. 95.5pts – $50.

Bass Philip – Premium – Pinot Noir – 2023. Wow. The blueberry fruit is quite spectacular, supported by fine tannins and silky oak. This is the Goldilocks wine of the tasting… Just right. The structural components are merely a whisper in the background, providing the canvas on which the fruit is painted. So so long and persistent this is a sublime wine. Such is its beauty, I can’t imagine this getting any better with aging, given just how good this is right now, but 5 years in the cellar certainly won’t hurt it, Beautifully crafted wine. 96-97pts.

Felton Road – Block 3 – Pinot Noir – 2023. Wowsers. Another superb wine, but here, the minerality and structure are turned up a notch. But this is not to the detriment of the fruit. Rather, they serve as a counterpoint adding texture without dulling the fruit’s vitality. 5 years will see this relax and unwind a little, and will allow the fruit to shine even brighter. 96pts.

Mount Mary – Pinot Noir – 2023. A complete wine and one that is very long and with excellent persistence. But this is a sleeper as there are no overt/defining features at this point. But with air or time, I am confident this will blossom. Very impressive. As this sits in the glass, the fruit continues to build and is so very fine and polished. Lovely. 96pts.

Rippon – Tinker’s Field – Pinot Noir – 2021. Oh wow, this is mind-blowingly good. Sublime, spine-tingling, stunning! There is depth and weight to the fruit, but the structure never gets in the way of the party. Desert Island wine. Yep, it is that good. 97pts.

Lowestoft – La Maison – Pinot Noir – 2023. A fine, ethereal wine that left me swooning and slightly weak at the knees, such is its beauty. The textural components are a highlight, adding great depth and structure in a way that cossets the fruit, rather than overwhelming it.96pts.

Bass Philip- Depuis – Pinot Noir – 2023. And…. BOOM. What a wine to finish the tasting. This is plush, succulent, seamless and oh so good. Beneath the soft, warm exterior, there is real depth and power that ensures that this remains balanced, focused and tremendous drinking. Brilliant fruit. Brilliant winemaking. Brilliant wine. A great wine on the world stage. 97.5pts – $550.

March 2026

There has been a lot of talk in the industry about the 2024 vintage in Margaret River, with some expressing concerns about the warmer, compressed vintage.
This tasting completely dispels the concerns. 

This is one of the highest pointed brackets of wines that the panel have reviewed.

Reviewed

Piero – Chardonnay – 2024. Oh wow. This is a different style to some here, but no less worthy. More refined, more elegant, yet just as impactful and so so impressive. The palate transition is totally seamless, with different flavours ebbing and flowing over time, caressing and cossetting the taste buds with the highest quality fruit. The winemaking is a mere whisper in the background, framing the fruit and adding a textural backbone, but not impacting in any way. Stunning. 14.0% alc – 97pts – $110

Cullen – Kevin John – Chardonnay – 2024. To quote John Jens: Yes, Yes. YES!!! This is a totally stunning wine. Fine, elegant and restrained, yet somehow, at the same time intense and powerful, with great purity of fruit. Finesse. Mouthfeel. Stunning length and persistence. 13.5% alc – 97pts – $180.

Deep Woods – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2024. OMG, the cracking lineup just keeps on going. The fruit here is a touch riper and with more overt power, and is perfectly matched to the fine oak and supple winemaking inputs. This is a case where the whole is much greater than the sum of the parts. The way the flavours linger on the finish is truly outstanding. One of the greats. Peach, nectarine, grapefruit-like acidity and sublime oak. 13.5% alc – 97. $80.

Peccavi – Cape Falls – Chardonnay – 2024. This is quite superb. Very intense and subtly powerful, this is an amazing amalgam of great fruit, fine oak and sympathetic winemaking. The length and persistence of flavours is quite stunning, as is the mouthfeel/texture. There are stonefruit characters to start, but there is so much more. A sublime, spine tingling wine made in tiny quantities . 13.0% alc – 96.5pts.

Cullen – Flower Day – Kevin John – Chardonnay – 2024. This was the first wine in the line-up and was a superb start to the bracket. This is a much more restrained rendition of chardonnay, with higher acidity and the fruit a little muted at the moment. The palate is crisp and taut, with nectarine and guava fruit notes. This really needs some time to open up, but will be a great wine in time. The winemaking inputs have been superbly managed and there is latent tension and energy sitting behind this. 13.5% alc – 96pts.