Reviewed: 24th April 2012
I had the pleasure of sitting down to dinner with Aline Baly from Chateau Coutet whilst tasting through a number of vintages back to 1986. It was fantastic to see how the wines evolved over time and also how the different vintage conditions influences the style of a particular wine.
The blend of grapes going into Coutet remains constant; Semillon – 75%, Sauvignon Blanc – 23% and Muscadet 2%. Apparently, the proportion of sauvignon blanc is higher than that used by most other Sauternes producers. The purpose is to make the wine crisp/sharp, even nervy. An energetic Sauternes then? Aline tells the story that the name Coutet means knife, hence they feel obliged to make a sharp wine 🙂
One point that was raised on the night was the amount of bottle to bottle variation with some vintages. Again, the less than perfect cork can be held accountable. We did not try any bad bottles, it is just that with the older wines (’89 in particular), there were differing degrees of development.
Without doubt, the highlight of the evening was tasting the two bottles of Cuvee Madame. Only released in exceptional years and only 100 dozen made in a particular vintage. I believe that there has only been 14 vintages released to date, with the 1997 being the latest. I need to express my gratitude to Bob Winterbottom for supplying both of these wines!
Finally, the 2010 Bordeaux indent has just began, so contact your friendly retailer if you would like to order the latest Coutet.
NB. This was not a blind tasting, so my points are best used as a comparison between vintages rather than in absolute terms. That said, the best wines were outstanding.
Reviewed
Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2007 (18). Obvious viscosity and sweetness, though the palate is very fine and taut, courtesy of the lovely acidity. The length is superb with honey, grapefruit and apricot fruit characters. Subtle and delicate, this will build in power and intensity with age.
Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2006 (17.7). Very delicate and fine, with lovely, floral fruit. There is less of the intense apricot/honey characters here, reflecting vintage conditions. Very closed at this stage, the finish is fresh, fine and seamless. An excellent aperitif.
Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2005 (17.8). Deeper hue than the 2006. More obvious botrytis characters on the nose, with plenty of apricot and orange marmalade. The palate is more intense, with some of the minerals that the house is (apparently) known for. Powerful and structured, with excellent length, the sweetness is more obvious.
Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2004 (17.5 – 18). Another intense wine that has both bower and balance. More nutty, with more minerality than 2005. Very intense palate with good length. Did not have the carry and depth of the greatest wines, but the wine really developed character with time in the glass. One to watch.
Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 1997 (NR).
Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 1989 (18.8). There was some bottle variation on the night, though none of the bottles were bad. Fantastic nose showing orange marmalade, apricot, floral notes, minerals and nutty fruit. One taster suggested a hint of Madeira. The palate was vibrant, and impressively fresh for a wine of such age. There was a degree of development, but the powerful fruit and superb acidity give the wine great length and penetration.
Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 1988 (18+). Lighter and more feminine than the ’89, this is reserved and oh so subtle. Balanced, long, fine and restrained, with citrus highlights, this is remarkably youthful. A complete wine in a lighter style that will live for many years.
Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – Cuvee Madame – 1989 (19). Remarkably fresh, concentrated and powerful, with marmalade and apricot aromas. The palate is incredible. Amazing intensity, but at the same time, elegant and restrained. Perfectly judged sweetness combined with mouth-watering acidity and a touch of viscosity to make this an incredible wine.
Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – Cuvee Madame – 1986 (18.9). Youthful! This is another incredible wine that has lovely spiced fruit and perfume. The palate is very exciting. It is fine, refined, very long and starting to develop. This is a lighter style than the 1989, but totally delicious all the same.