New Release
Reviewed: 22 June 2012
A variety of styles on display here. The complexity of the sauvignon blancs that had seen some oak appealed to the panel, though, like chardonnay, they could do with a couple of years in the bottle to reach their peak.
At the other end of the spectrum, the Brown Brother Patricia dessert wine was lauded by the panel. A superb wine that will hold its own against many high priced Sauternes, though the style is different.
Reviewed – Dry
The Lane – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – The Gathering – 2009 (17.5+). Very textural wine. This is more akin to chardonnay, with creamy oak and lees/barrel ferment notes and lemony fruit. This is a powerful wine with great length and oak complexity. Like a good chardonnay, I would encourage you to give this plenty of air or a year or two in the bottle to allow the fruit to come through.
Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – Art Series – 2011 (17.5). One of the more serious wine here, in that it has been deftly massaged in the winery. The quality fruit has been well managed and displays plenty of southern Margaret River grassy notes. The palate hads nutty flavours and is textured, intense and pristine. Very long with good mouth-feel, the acid is still firm. Oak complexity (courtesy of the 30% of the fruit that was barrel fermented), fills out the finish.
Millbrook – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17.2). Less grassy fruit and more tropical flavours than a lot of WA SB’s. Zesty palate that is long, with passionfruit pulp to close. Persistent and mouth-filling, the finish is very drying. A smart wine from Margaret River.
Chalk Board – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Cut grass on the nose, but there is a lot more going on here. I wonder if this has seen a touch of barrel ferment, as the textural component of the wine is a standout. Long and fresh, the acidity ties the palate together well. A surprisingly serious wine. Made by Wairau River from Marlborough fruit.
Galafrey – Sauvignon Blanc – Sauvy – 2011 (16.8). Racy, precise, textured and long, this is an excellent drink. This has quite delicate floral fruit, but I expect it to open up with a few more months in the bottle. There is a hint of residual sugar to balance out the palate nicely.
Mount Riley – Sauvignon Blanc – Marlborough – 2011(16.5). Overt and attractive nose. Grassy and herbaceous to start, with tropical highlights building in the glass. Long and tight, this is a leaner style that is very drinkable.
De Bortoli – Sauvignon Blanc – La Bossa – 2011(15.5). Bright and fresh, though quite simple fruit. Pleasant, fresh fruit flavours combine well with a touch of residual sugar to make this an excellent quaff.
Reviewed – Sweet
Brown Brothers – Riesling – Patricia – 2008 (18.2). Amazing palate that is intense, yet very fine and elegant. Long and fine, this should not be served too cold. The balance here is the key, as the wine blends power, intensity and persistence with finesse and elegance. A complex, botrytis affected wine with dried apricot and citrus peel and acidity that gives the wine real life on the palate.
Cherubino – Riesling – The Yard – Botrytis – 2010 (17.4). Volatile, but in a good way with hints of varnish and resin. Much more viscous than the Clairault, with greater length on the palate and moderate persistence. Apricots, honey and marmalade on an unctuous finish.
Clairault – Riesling – Cane Cut – 2011 (17.3). Lovely nose redolent of apricots, but with much more to offer. Fresh, bright, long and intense fruit on the palate with just enough acidity to balance the sweetness. Intense and persistent, this is a lovely drink. (Though lacks the ultimate length of the best).
Juniper Estate – Riesling – Cane Cut – 2010 (17). Lighter and fresher than the others here, this is a little less sweet, and all the better for it. This will be the perfect foil for cheese or lighter desserts.