Reviewed: 15 March 2013

Peter and Ruth Althaus started Domaine A in 1989 when they purchased a small vineyard on a 20 hectare property in Tasmania’s Coal Valley. Peter was in Sydney recently to show off the wineries current release wines and taste some back vintages of various wines.

Peter is rightly proud of the wines that he produces. The whole range is of very high quality and the wines are not made to follow fashion. They are individualistic and represent exactly what Peter is trying to achieve.

Personal experience suggests that the wines age superbly, though on the day, I was too late to try the older wines. Others reported that the 1998 Domaine A is drinking superbly (from magnum).

The wines are not cheap, but they are certainly worth seeking out. The usual caveat applies to this report – the wines were not tasted blond, so my points are best used as a guide only.

Reviewed

Domaine A – Sauvignon Blanc – Stoney Vineyard – 2011 (17). Grassy aromas over green pea and gentle herbal notes. This has quite a serious nose and displays good complexity. (whilst this sees no oak, it does spend six months on lees). The palate is viscous and textured, with floral notes over the grassy fruit. With 10g/l of residual sugar, there is notable sweetness from the mid palate through to the long and fine finish. This is something that Peter has done to improve drinkability. Whilst this won’t suit all palates, it makes and excellent alternative to an NZ or Adelaide hills wine.

Domaine A – Sauvignon Blanc – Lady A – 2008 (17.5). From a one hectare plot, this wine gets the royal treatment. Barrel fermentation and 1 year in new French oak followed by further time in the cellar. A complex nose that has minerals and match-strike/flint characters from barrel ferment and lees work. At 5 years of age, this is really coming together beautifully. The hint of gun smoke on the long finish adds interest. Despite the expansive winemaking inputs, this is a surprisingly gentle/elegant wine with subtlety and charm. A delightful wine.

Domaine A – Pinot Noir – Stoney Vineyard – 2011 (17.3). Quite a meaty/earthy nose. Quite grippy on the palate now, this needs a few years for the cherry/pippy fruit to settle in to the structure. With air, this is quite long and dominated by savoury/spicy notes. A smart wine that works best with food, where the savoury characters come in to their own.

Domaine A – Cabernet Sauvignon – Stoney Vineyard – 2007 (17.5). The extra time in bottle makes its presence felt in this wine. Savoury and spicy, with forest floor highlights, this is a long and textured wine of real presence. Whilst a long way removed from the wines of Margaret River and Coonawarra in style, this is a textural feast and represents excellent value.

Domaine A – Cabernet blend – Petit “a” – 2008 (17.8). A much more familiar flavour profile here, with ripe fruit showing black currant and even a hint of cassis. The palate is fine and textured, though the finish is linear and structure. Either food or time will serve this well.

Domaine A – Pinot Noir – Domaine A – 2008 (17.8). Delicate and refined nose that is subtle and intriguing. The palate is extraordinarily fine, with the core of tannins providing a seamless passage from mid palate to the very long conclusion. In the style of Gevrey? According to the website, the low yields mean that it takes two vines to produce each bottle of this wine. (Diam closure).

Domaine A – Cabernet Sauvignon – Domaine A – 2008 (18.5). Densely structured fruit leads the attack on the nose. This is a powerful wine, though it is not “big”. The power comes from concentrated fruit that whilst ripe, is at the cooler end of the flavour spectrum. There are hints of black fruits, crushed ant, a touch of menthol and supple, cedary spice. The length is outstanding, though this needs years to reach its peak. The wine spends three years in new French oak and is held back for another two years in bottle. A superb wine and a worthy alternative to the wines of Moss Wood, Cape Mentelle etc.