9 August 2010

Guigal is to France as Penfolds is to Australia. Both produce some of the greatest shiraz based wines in the world. I would go as far as to say that between them, they are probably responsible for the greatest wines based on shiraz.

In Australia, Grange and Hill of Grace are at the pinacle. In France, the single vineyard wines of Guigal are the ultimate expression of shiraz. La Turque, La Landonne and La Mouline come not from Hermitage, but rather are the ultimate expression of Cote Rotie. In recent times, Chateau d’Ampuis has rivalled the more famous three for quality. Be warned, these wines are not cheap.

Like Penfolds, Guigal produces many wines at various price points to cover all the consumer’s needs. At the affordable end of the spectrum is the generic Cotes du Rhones. These are wines that rely on purity of fruit for quality and show no oak influence. From here the wines range up in price commensurate with the appellation that they come from. Experience has shown that even the base wines can age well. (I am still drinking the 1995 Cotes du Rhones in my cellar, and it is a very satisfying drink).

According to Brett Crittenden (their Brand Ambassador in Australia), the upcoming vintages are going to be even better. He explained that in 2006, the company commissioned new cellars that can process the millions of litres of wines that are produced each year. Up until then, the company bought wine from other producers to blend up into their Cotes du Rhone.

When it comes to recommendations, this is an unusual case of more = more. The most expensive wines are also the best. My pick is the 2005 d’Ampuis. At $300 per bottle, this is frightfully expensive, but it is half the price of the other single vineyard reds!

NB: This was not a blind tasting so take the points with a grain of salt.

Reviewed

Guigal – Cotes du Rhone (Blanc) – 2009 (16.8). Quite a delicate and refreshing nose with floral and tropical fruits. The palate is defined by an oiliness and viscosity on the finish. Will take food well.

Guigal – Saint Joseph (Blanc) – 2006 (17.2). This has more structure than the previous wine. The texture is what stands out here. Oak influence plus a lees character add to the creamy palate. A long and subtle wine.

Guigal – Condrieu – La Doriane – 2007 (17.7+). This has lovely apricot, pear and spice tones on the nose. Peachy stonefruit and musk lead the palate, but this is a powerful wine with excellent length to the tight and restrained finish. There is some almond meal to close. Whilst powerful, this is much finer than the typical Australian equivalent. Will benefit from a year or two in the cellar. (Viognier)

Guigal – Cotes du Rhone (Rouge) – 2006 (16.8). Fresh cherries and spice on the nose. The palate is soft, fresh and quite plush. Fine fruit tannins and acidity keep the fruit in check. History suggests that a few years in the cellar will be of benefit.

Guigal – Chateau Neuf de Pape – 2005 (17.5). Much more concentrated with real depth of fruit. The palate is quite chewy, with cherry, tar, spice and licorice. This is a fine wine that will score higher in a few years.

Guigal – Crozes Hermitage – 2005 (17+). The first wine in the line-up that had shiraz fruit characters as the dominant aroma. This is quite textured, with spice and herbs on the palate. There are cher.ry fruit characters and a pleasant tarriness to the finish. Medium bodied. (Shiraz)

Guigal – St Joseph – 2004 (17). More structured than the Crozes, with earthy characters to the fore. The palate is structured, with spice and an earthiness to the fruit characters. The finish is soft, elegant and supple. Drinks well now. (Shiraz)

Guigal – St Joseph – Vignes De l’Hospice – 2004 (17.7). A step up in terms of fruit expression. Vibrant red fruits overlay tar, licorice and spice. This has fantastic cool fruit characters with concentrated white pepper and very good structure. Sympathetic oak complements the finish on a silky and quite delicious wine. Now to 8 yrs. (Shiraz)

Guigal – St Joseph – Vignes De l’Hospice – 2006 (18.5). Very fresh in comparison to the 2004, with lovely primary red fruits on the nose. The palate is flooded by red fruits, yet the finish is really silky. Seamless, long and very fine, the fruit coats the tongue and evolves. Whilst the oak and tannins suppress the finish a little right now, this is an excellent wine that deserves 5 – 10 years in the cellar. (Shiraz)

Guigal – Cote Rotie – Chateau d’Ampuis – 2004 (18). Much greater density than some here, this is a very structured wine that is still closed. The palate is dense, and just starting to develop some leather and chocolate fruit characters. Not that accessible. (Shiraz)

Guigal – Cote Rotie – Chateau d’Ampuis – 2005 (18.5). Quite closed, but develops perfume with air. This is really enticing and alluring. Whilst tight and closed, this has fantastic fruit expression. The finish is dominated by very fine tannins and quality oak, but these are not aggressive. A very fine wine with a long future. (Shiraz)

Guigal – Cote Rotie – La Turque – 2004 (18.8). Really only hints at its potential. This is a massively proportioned wine that displays an amazing depth of fruit. Despite all this the wine remains elegant and refined. The length of this wine is incredible, with seamless mouth-feel and perfect balance. Amazingly, this is only 13% alcohol and demonstrates that a stunning, powerful wine can be made without using over-ripe fruit. (Shiraz)

Guigal – Cote Rotie – La Landonne – 2005 (18.5). Fresher, and displaying more pepper than the La Turque. The palate is much more youthful, with bright, vibrant fruit and a long finish. Quite closed initially, this built significant richness and pretty cherry fruit with air. Needs time to show its best. (Shiraz)