31 January 2011

There appears to be a trend towards blending sangiovese with other varieties in Australia at the moment. Initially, I questioned why the winemakers were doing this, but I realised that this is not without a couple of precedents.

Some of the best red wines ever made in Australia have been blends of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. Even Penfolds Grange has some cabernet in the blend in most years. Yet in Bordeaux, (the home of cabernet) the use of shiraz is not permitted and in Hermitage, (the home of shiraz), cabernet is prohibited.

In Italy, many of the most exciting wines of the last 15 years have been blends of sangiovese with cabernet sauvignon or merlot, e.g. Sassicia and Solaia. These wines have had to carry the most basic label as these blends contravened the laws governing what could be called Chianti. Ironically, they quickly became highly sought after and demanded higher prices than almost any wines wearing the Chianti classification.

So to the tasting…

Tasted

Juniper Crossing – Tempranillo – 2009 (17.5). Dense and almost impenetrable. Chewy and textured, but the fruit is very shy right now. The finish is fine and the tannins are well integrated. Should improve.

Stella Bella – Sangiovese/Cabernet – 2008 (17). Sweet and succulent fruit, with some vanillin oak notes in the background. The palate is fine and silky with savoury fruit characters to the fore. The finish is very long and the silky tannins work well. Chewy close and drying tannins acknowledge the wines of Chianti.

Voyager Estate – Merlot – 2007 (17). Aromas of cedar and menthol over the dark fruits. Some ripe fruit notes, but the middle palate is lean and drying. Quality fruit builds in the mouth and the fine tannins balance out the finish. Well made, and should develop for a few years.

Drakesbrook – Cabernet Franc – 2009 (16.8). Plump and fleshy, this has vibrant sweet fruit. Mulberry, red berries, blackcurrant and plum all coat the tongue. The finish is soft yet there are persistent fine tannins to keep it fresh. Good current drinking and better than a quaff.

Penfolds – Sangiovese – Cellar Reserve – 2006 (16.6). Again, has sweet fruit and oak on the nose. Cedar, spice and firm tannins dominate the palate. A modern wine that needs some time to improve, though you can see hints of the Penfolds style in the wine. Needs food.

Tintara – Sangiovese – 2007 (16.5). Savour, souring nose, with a palate that matches. This is long and fine, but is in no way dominated by the fruit. Authentic style.

Norton – Malbec – Reserva – 2007 (16.5). A powerful wine that is dense, ripe and textured. The savoury edge to the finish keeps the balance and the firm tannins need to soften somewhat. Will be interesting to see how this develops. At under $15, this is worth a punt.

Talisman – Zinfandel – 2009 (16.4). Sweet, rich and ripe fruit. A powerful wine, with plenty of ripe fruit and fine tannins. The only question is when would you drink it.

Monte La Sarda – Grenache – 2009 (16). Quite deep and dense, there are licorice, tar and savoury characters. Souring finish retains freshness, but lacks the depth of fruit of the best here. An interesting drink. (Synthetic closure – I would like to try another bottle to see if the fruit expresses better).

Bird in Hand – Merlot – 2009 (15.8). Forward and almost jammy. A big wine with plenty of sunshine in the glass. No rough edges, but lacks real interest.

Talisman – Malbec – 2009 (15.8). Seductive nose that is soft, round and generous. Nice plummy fruit to a good quaff.