18 June 2009

A line up of shiraz is always hard work, as your palate becomes fatigued from all the tannins and oak. Changes in wine making styles over recent years has seen the amount of obvious new oak decrease. The trend being to use less oak, and use tighter knit french oak which is more subtle and refined. This was reflected in this tasting, which was pleasing to see. Some of the wines had cooler fruit characters that struggled to achieve optimum ripeness. The Brown Brother Patricia was a clear stand out. It and the Howard Park – Scottsdale received unanimous support. A winery to watch is Groom. There is serious fruit here and excellent wine making. A good effort given the vintage conditions.

Tasted

Brown Brothers – Patricia – Shiraz – 2005 (18.2). Another stellar release from Brown Brothers under the Patricia label. This is a big wine, with ripe fruit on the nose, obvious oak and spicy fruit. The palate is defined by luscious black fruits with plums. In the mouth it is silky, with supple fruit. The oak still shows now, and the finish is grippy. The plentiful tannins are very fine. Mouth coating and textured. This will be very good. (One panelist felt these wines represented the commercial wine making taken to the highest level).

Howard Park – Scottsdale – Shiraz – 2007 (18). Better than most here. Ripe and succulent fruit, with spice to add interest The palate is defined by bright and a spicy finish. Fruit quality is excellent with blackberry and cherry fruit, with a briary tarry finish. Must be old vine fruit with real depth. Very fine oak use and tannins Cool climate shiraz.

Groom – Shiraz – 2007 (17.5/18). I was the only one to support this wine, as I felt it only hints at potential. The fruit is ripe, bright and spicy. There is cinnamon and vanillin oak overtones. The finish is a bit clunky bit with cherries, tar. And some pepper to close. This was much better the next night. Needs years.

Willow Bridge – The Gravel Pit – Shiraz/Viognier – 2007 (17.5). Wow, lots of everything here. Opens with redcurrant and black currant fruit with pepper. The finish is spicy finish with a touch of cloves and fine oak and tannins. Grippy right now but will evolve. Rich soft perfumed (One panelist thought that the wine was contrived and manufactured).

Vasse Felix – Shiraz – 2006 (17.5). Polarized the panel, but I liked it. The nose is complex and a touch earthy, but is only hinting at its potential. Same with the palate, which is dense, long, very tight and closed. Quite seamless. Will be good. Others thought that the wine was highly worked to compensate for the lack of fruit quality. A reflection of the year?

Singlefile Estate – Shiraz – 2007 (17+). Dusty to start with, but opens with time. Some nice cherry and spice on the nose. The palate is bright, ripe and long. There is firm ripe fruit with fine oak and tannins to finish. Souring cherry fruit adds interest to the palate.

Lenton Brae –Shiraz – 2007 (17+). Again, not universally supported but… Dumb to start. Spicy, with white pepper. A medium bodied wine, but with a long and fine finish. Will open in time. Fruit builds. Still closed the next day.

Jim Barry – Shiraz Cabernet – 2005 (16.8). Pretty fruit. Ripe and seductive. Minty cabernet notes with ripe shiraz backbone. Plummy fruit. On the palate, the plummy fruit continues. This is ripe, succulent, soft and round. A good drink now and good value.

Capel Vale– Mt Barker – Shiraz – 2007 (16.5). Licorice and spice on the nose. Perfumed, but with a hardish finish. (Significant support from one panelist who liked the old vines fruit and found it smooth and round with good wine making and tannins).

Schwarz Wine Company – The Dust Kicker – Shiraz/Mataro – 2007 (16.5). Quite dense and unyielding. Spicy ripe fruit but lacks a little weight. Will be better in 5 years.

Arete – Shiraz – 2008 (16.5). Dusty, silky, but a bit herbal and medicinal both on the nose and palate. The fruit is long and fleshy. More support from TJ, who felt it was even better with dinner.