Barry Weinman – May 2026
In any blind tasting, I would expect the likes of Moss Wood and Cullen Wines’ Diana Madeline to shine. And so they did in this tasting. The 2024 Diana Madeline is a contender for Cabernet of the Year, while the 2023 Moss Wood is one of the best I have had the privilege of tasting.
Whilst not quite in the same league, the Battles 2025 Cabernet, made by Lance Parkin, certainly set a cat amongst the pigeons. Here is a wine that sells for $40 from the winery and really delivers the goods.
Battles — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2025
Lovely perfumed aromas that just scream CABERNET. It is ripe, vibrant and packed full of blueberry fruit. The palate is silky and supple, but with an acid and tannin backbone that makes its presence felt, adding structure and depth without overwhelming the fruit. Oak is not a defining feature, rather it adds important texture. This is not the most powerful or intense cabernet we have seen, but it is a delightful drink now with grilled meats, or at any time over the next 10 years. Fruit comes from the Ellens Ridge Vineyard in Wilyabrup. 14.0% alc | 93.5pts | $40
Moss Wood — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2023
A fine, muscular example of cabernet, with the powerful blackcurrant fruit complemented by fine, though firm and structuring, tannins from both fruit and oak. The latter imparts a subtle cedary character that is most attractive. Despite the power and structure, this remains supple and approachable, which is quite an achievement. For me, this wine will be best beyond 2035, given its complexity, power and great length of flavour. 14.0% alc | 97pts | $160
Mount Mary — Quintet — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2023
This was slipped into the blind tasting as a yardstick for the WA wines and, from the outset, it was clear that this was far removed stylistically from Margaret River. It comes across as softer, more fleshy and very finely boned when compared to the more muscular Margaret River wines. The blueberry fruit is the driving factor up front, but then, as the wine lingers on the totally seamless palate, the textural components really start to build. Tannins, acidity and oak are all perfectly balanced, adding gravitas without impeding the fruit. So good now, but sure to age well. A wine that challenges the best producers from Bordeaux at a fraction of the price. A great wine. 13.5% alc | 96+pts | $250
Cullen — Diana Madeline — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2023
Wow, wow, WOW. What a wine. This is powerful, yet supple and so approachable. Not quite silky, but near seamless in the way the fruit flows across the palate. The structure is the secret sauce in this wine, giving life, energy and drive, allowing the fruit to ebb and flow across the finish without ever losing balance or focus. A superb wine on the world stage. 13.5% alc | 97pts
Cullen — Diana Madeline — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2024
This is the most perfect cabernet that I have tasted of late. It stylistically splits the wines in this tasting, carrying more power and structure than some, whilst retaining an approachability that others lack. The fruit is, of course, the star, but it is the way it has been handled in the winery that makes all the difference. The oak is firm and structuring, but adds no overt flavours. The tannins and acidity add depth and energy, but do not impede the fruit in any way. As great as this wine is now, it will be even better in 20 years. 97+pts