Reviewed: 12 December 2011

I had a call from my good friend John Jens asking for help. In short, he needed to assess some imported wines quickly to see if it was worth buying some of the remaining stock. No problems I said, so I threw in a few locals to keep the French honest and we were in business.

This turned out to be an excellent tasting. The overall quality of the wines was very high. The highlight was a bracket of Southern Rhone wines that should be available in Perth at some point in the new year. The Chateauneuf-du-Pape were both excellent and the Lirac should be good value. Definitely wines to watch.

As most of these wines are not available yet, they have not made it in to my wines of the week.

Reviewed

Chardonnay

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – Meursault-Charmes – 2009 (18+). Interesting nose that is attractively perfumed but very fine, showing grapefruit, lees and struck match minerality. Lean fruit, but there is excellent penetration on the palate, building real depth on the finish . The persistence is admirable and the finish quite seamless. Plenty of potential and sure to do well over the next five years.

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – Puligny-Montrachet – 2009 (18). More obvious fruit (honeysuckle and lemon) in another bigger style. Power and intensity combine with racy acidity to provide a thrilling palate. The finish is very long, with great persistence. The wine has complex mineral notes to close and is, again, quite seamless. Ultimately, a whisker behind the Meursault-Charmes, but better drinking and better value now.

Victory Point – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.5+). Creamy nose, with a lean tropical fruit note running down the middle. Quite mealy with mineral aromas and a touch of flint. Very powerful fruit on the palate, this has it all. Peach, nectarine and lovely texture with some oak char to close. There is good length and balance to the finish. This is a bigger style that really works. Drink over the next few years.

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Prelude – 2010 (17.5). Tight and reserved, this is just a baby. There is quality fruit that hints at pineapple, as well as seamless oak that caresses the finish. Without the ultimate complexity of the best here, this is a refined wine of some appeal.

Reds

Alain Jaume – Grenache Blend – Chateauneuf-du-Pape – Vieux Terron – 2009 (18.5). Fragrant, spicy and perfumed nose showing orange peel, tar, rose water and sappy acidity. This is finer and better balanced than the Les Origines, making it easier to drink now. An enjoyable wine showing complex plum and cherry, with hints of chocolate and licorice on the palate. A lovely wine with excellent length to close.

Domaine Grand Veneur – Grenache Blend – Chateauneuf-du-Pape – Les Origines – 2009 (18). Another lovely nose here. Cedar, spice, plum, cherry, tar and roses all come to the fore on the nose. The palate is textured and spicy, with plenty of chocolate fruit. The acid notes are a bit high now, but this should settle. Delicious, the savoury finish really suites the wine.

Domaine Grand Veneur – Grenache Blend – Lirac – Clos Sixte – 2009 (17.5). Fresher, denser and more alive than the Luberon. Tar, plum, cherry and spice on the nose. Fragrant and very spicy, this is a very enjoyable wine. The palate is full and fleshy, and the acidity carries the palate well. Juicy, succulent and delicious, with drying tannins on the finish. Made by Alain Jaume & fils.

Domaine Christophe Savoy – Gammay – Chiroubles – Cuvee Loic – 2010 (17). More body and density than the village wines tried here, this is quite lovely. Fresh red berry fruit is evident, but this has texture and a lovely mouth-feel too, courtesy of ripe tannins. Savoury to close, this would be great with food.

Ludmila & Sylvian Morey – Grenache Blend – Luberon – Bastide du Claux – 2007 (16.2). Lovely, seductive nose. Savoury, souring acidity, plumy fruit. Relatively simple, but satisfying.