Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc

New Release

Reviewed: 25th March 2012

The classic saying “don’t judge a book by its cover” came to mind when we were unmasking the wines at the end of this tasting. The opposite is perhaps true with wine. Do judge a wine by its packaging.

Wine bottles come in all shapes and sizes, but when it comes to premium wines, understandable, wineries put these in to packaging that stands out. Taller, wider and heavier bottles are the order of the day, combined with an upmarket label and, perhaps, a Stelvin Lux closure.

When it comes to (Western) Australian SSB/SBS, a bigger package is also associated with more intervention in the winery. These so-called “Winemakers Inputs” include:

  • Barrel Fermentation (Usually part of the blend would be fermented in oak barrels)
  • Lees Stirring (To increase complexity and texture in the mouth)
  • Extended Skins Contact (Some of the wine might be left in contact with the skins after crushing for a short time to increase textural components of the wine).

Depending on the amount of each, the wines are transformed from a lighter, fresh and floral style, to a more complex and serious wine that demands attention. These are often wines for sipping rather than drinking, and all will look even better with food. These wines will often age well for a few years as the wine integrates and the fruit becomes more expressive.

This style is typical of white Bordeaux where the wines can age for a decade or more.

If you have not tried one before, consider it as an alternative to chardonnay one night and make up your own mind on the style.

Reviewed

Clairault – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – B79 – 2011 (18). The nose is a cross between white Bordeaux and fine Chablis. Aromas of minerals, fruit and oak combine to make this a very fine wine. The palate has lovely lemony fruit and a long finish. The textural components from the winemaker’s inputs are spot on for this style of wine. Again, the new packaging is excellent.

Singlefile Estate – Fume Blanc – 2011 (17.8+). Zesty, this is just a bit too young at the moment. The nose shows barrel ferment and lees, but there is still fresh fruit to the fore. There is a lovely creamy finish and the length is spot on. This will be even better in a year or two when the fruit opens up and balances out the textural components and acidity.

Juniper Estate – Semillon – 2010 (17.5). Has more in common with high quality chardonnay than it does to a Margaret River SSB. Oak and spice dominate the nose and the finish. A quality wine that will go well with food.

Singlefile Estate – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17.4). A more serious style of wine than many here. This is showing green, herbaceous characters (green pee and asparagus) but I wonder if there is a touch of barrel ferment as well. Lively palate that is dry enough to keep the finish fresh and vibrant. Refreshing, intense and balanced.

Clairault – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17.3). Taut and fine, this is a quality wine. Everything is in place and there are no rough edges. If anything, it needs a year or two to allow the fruit to express itself, but a fine wine all the same. Smart new packaging.

Smith and Hooper – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17.1). Quite a complex aroma that has hints of lees and barrel fermentation. Lean and tight now, the quality of this wine is underlined by the textural component of the palate. Long and balanced, it needs a couple of years to show its best. From Wrattonbully and definitely worth a look.

Mad Fish – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17). Opens, with grass and lantana aromas. Smart wine that, whilst delicate, has real charm and appeal. Long and fine, the finish is all class. A very subtle wine to pair with seafood dishes.

Hay Shed Hill – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (16.8). Floral sweetness to the nose, with attractive tropical fruit highlights. The palate is zesty, vibrant and long, with grassy, gooseberry flavours predominating. Good length and a degree of (phenolic) viscosity that makes this an interesting drink.

Kim Crawford – Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (16.8). A very rich wine that has a degree of ripeness in evidence. The fruit is quite powerful, and the mouth-feel on the bigger side. Good acidity cuts through the finish, balanced by a touch of residual sugar. Will appeal to the in-laws.

Sarantos – Sauvignon Blanc – Soft Press – 2011 (16.6). Lovely nose that hints of green pear. In some ways, this reminds me of an Alsatian wine, with a mineral core to the fruit. Lemony fruit and acid dominate the palate and give this wine drive. I like it.

Houghton – White Classic – 2011 (16.5). Sherbet and tropical fruit over very fresh acidity and excellent length. Perhaps a touch reductive now, this needs a few years to settle and really shine. Bargain.

Grace Farm – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (16.4). A smart wine here, with forward citrus fruit balanced by juicy acidity on the finish. Not complex but quite long.

Oxford Landing Estate – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (16). Great value and smart new look.

Houghton – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (15.9). Another excellent value wine.