Reviewed: 12 November 2012

Hosted by Sam Badger (Sommelier’s Australia) and Rockpool Bar and Grill – Perth

Shiraz is the great all-rounder of red wine. Grown in cooler climates, it produces wonderfully fragrant, almost perfumed wines that are full of spicy, peppery fruit. In warmer regions, the density of the fruit increases and the flavour profile moves from pepper and spice to red berries and plum. Both styles can produce wines of the highest quality, giving the consumer the choice of which style to drink.

Given the variety of styles on offer, there are wines made from shiraz that will suit almost any palate. The important point here is that the wine must taste good to the person who is about to drink it. When it comes to a collection of wine industry insiders, the focus can be on the technical aspects of the wine rather than drinking enjoyment.

I try to balance this by giving drinkability the attention that it deserves. I try to differentiate between consumer-friendly wines that are great drinking now and those for the connoisseur who has the ability to cellar wines for extended periods. A good example of this is the wine by Chave.

Here is a wine that polarised the assembled tasters. The old fashioned, earthy, leathery, herbal notes strongly suggested that this wine has a bit of brettanomyces. One of the tasters declared that the wine was faulty. But wine is a very personal experience and individual response to brett is varied. There is now doubt that there is a threshold above which the wine becomes less palatable, but this varies from one person to the next.

Anyone who grew up drinking old Hunter Valley reds will have fond memories of those leathery, horsy characters. And, yes, the Chave has plenty of these characters. While the wine is a long way removed from the modern, fresh Australian wines, it is not without interest or charm. My view is let the consumer decide.

Let me know your thoughts!

A special thanks goes out to Rockpool for hosting this event.

Reviewed

Jim Barry – Shiraz – The Armah – 2007. (18.5+). Chocolate, coffee, licorice, tar, earthy notes and sour plum all vie for attention on the nose. The palate is immense and powerful, yet remarkably, remains balanced and fine. The tannins are expertly handled and the fruit really builds on the finish. The oak has been swallowed up by the high quality fruit, imparting gentle texture rather than overt flavour. Plump, ripe and delicious, this develops coffee and licorice on the palate too as it evolves and builds. A highlight.

S.C. Pannell – Shiraz – 2008 (18/18.5+). Attention grabbing nose that blends ripe, fragrant fruit with quality winemaking inputs. Supple, the palate is initially textured up front, though the oak and tannins really shut down the finish. Licorice, plum, tar and chewy (drying) tannins all build on a very long palate. Immense fruit that needs time to unwind from the winemaker’s cocoon. Spectacular!

Te Mata Estate – Shiraz – Bullnose – 2010 (18.5). Austere and firm, this is very unrewarding at present. The closed nose only hints at what lies ahead. The palate is firm, yet the texture and tannins are very well judged. Opens to show mulberry, plum, licorice, spice and high quality oak. There are very firm, yet incredibly fine tannins to close. Ideally, this needs years to come around.

Shaw and Smith – Shiraz – 2009 (18.3). This wine stood out for its blend of high quality fruit and slick winemaking. Whilst powerful, the wine has lovely poise and balance. The finish is chewy and dense, yet there is vitality to the fruit that is captivating. Souring acidity adds life, the length is superb and the balance spot on. Beautifully made, this will live for many years.

Clonakilla – Shiraz/Viognier – 2010 (18.2). Cooler fruit on display here. Lovely spicy fruit on the palate with raspberry and cherry fruit over musk/Turkish delight highlights. Violets, perfume, white pepper, silky texture, near seamless palate, this has it all. The length is excellent and, with air, this really builds depth on the palate. Cracking cool climate shiraz, with the viognier adding a real lift.

Frankland Estate – Isolation Ridge Vineyard – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Lovely ripe fruit showing perfume over floral blueberry and plum. The palate is dense, with the sweet fruit complemented by dense, almost earthy characters. The palate is near seamless, the length prodigious. The finish is silky and the tannins are beautifully polished, adding grip along with the vanillin oak on the finish. Needs ten years to open up and will last for many more.

Henschke – Shiraz – Hill of Grace – 2006 (18 – 18.5+). Lifted fruit over sweet vanillin oak. A heady mix of red fruits over menthol and subtle spice. The palate is powerful and ripe, with tight oak and chewy tannins. There is fantastic length, souring acid and a very textured palate. This is a wine that has had the volume turned right up and the quality fruit builds with air. A clear favourite with some attendees.

Rene Rostaing – Cote Rotie – 2007 (18+). An interesting wine that is noticeably different. Leads off with herbal aromas over cherry and Satsuma plum. On the palate, it is apparent that this wine is more about texture than primary fruit. There is excellent length and depth to the wine, but the fruit is gentle. White pepper, fine tannins and herbal notes carry the finish, with lovely souring acid. The oak is apparent but sympathetic to the style. Really builds with air to show red currents, chocolate and spice and there is real density and depth of flavour.

Yves Cuilleron – Syrah – Cote Rotie – 2010 (18+). Balanced and enticing nose full of supple fruit with hints of savoury complexity. Builds to show black fruits, spice and a touch of anise. With really bright red fruits over white pepper on the palate, this is juicy, succulent and very long. The fine tannins and oak on the finish suggest that this will develop well, but this is so delicious, I would recommend trying a bottle now.

Clape – Shiraz – Cornas – 2009 (18). Ripe and fragrant fruit that, whilst full and dense, has lovely perfume and spice. Pepper, red fruits and spice all meld together with fine oak and a hint of licorice/herbal notes. With air, the wine opens up to show cherries and blueberries. The palate has lively white pepper and fine, though palpable tannins from the fruit and oak. The finish has cedary overtones, is very long, and has dusty tannins to close. A youthful and vibrant old-world shiraz.

J.L. Chave – Shiraz – Hermitage – 2006 (17/18+). A touch more ripe fruit characters here, with hints of fruitcake. There is lovely depth to the nose with aniseed, plum and earthy, forest floor, leathery characters. The palate is very fine, yet rich and textured. The bright fruit is the focus here, with the silky tannins and oak only making their presence felt on a very long finish. (The oak is all about texture rather than flavour and the tannins are really fine). The length is a stand-out. Elegant, medium-bodied and starting to show the first signs of development, you will either love or loath the earthy, forest floor characters. I am a fan!

Brokenwood – Shiraz – Hunter Valley – 2009 (17.8). Yes, this is a big wine, yet it is remarkably elegant and reserved. The souring acidity on the finish adds life and interest, though ideally, this needs a good steak to bring out its best, as it is dense, tight and restrained. The oak is a little obvious now, but will settle in time.

Greenstone – Shiraz – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Lovely nose that blends ripe, succulent fruit with savoury hints and a touch of oak lift. With red fruits to the fore, the palate is remarkable for the fruit-dominant mouth-feel. The structure builds with air. A well-made wine from Heathcote.

Sadie– Shiraz/Mouvedre – Columella– Liberatus in Castro Bonae Spei – 2008 (17.5 – 18). Dense, peppery fruit of some class. Rich and textured, this is a meal in itself. Dense, long and textured, there is weighty, dark fruits, tar, anise, spice and black pepper. There are savoury oak notes and chewy tannins to close. Some thought it just lacked a bit of life, but I thought it was spot on. From South Africa.

Chapoutier – Crozes Hermitage – Les Meyoniers – 2007 (17.5+). I like this a lot. Supple, floral fruit to the fore, showing spice, black pepper, plum, licorice, tar and earthy hints. The oak here is merely a whisper on the finish and the souring acidity carries the palate. Youthful and relatively uncomplicated now, this is a wine to drink or keep.

Pierre Gaillard – St Joseph – 2009 (17.5). Impenetrable nose. This is very closed and tight. The palate is, again, lighter bodied and very fresh, with cherry fruit to the fore over white pepper and spice. Excellent length and texture, the mouth-feel is the key here. Drink now to 10 years.