Reviewed: 27th July 2012

The highlight of this tasting was the pair of wines from Xabregas. The way these two wines express their cool climate origins is quite different. Apparently, this relates to the differing soil compositions in the two vineyards. The Figtree is tight, lean and structured, whilst the Spencer displays more obvious fruit and is much more approachable today.

The trio of wines from Shingleback were also very impressive. There was high quality fruit on display in all of them, but for me, The Gate is the pick, combining superb fruit and winemaking with a relatively modest price. ($31 from Wine Box Warehouse).

Reviewed

Xabregas – Shiraz – X – Figtree – Syrah – 2010 (18.5). Wow, really high quality fruit on display here. This is much more subdued than the Spencer, with savoury, spicy fruit characters opening up in the glass. The fruit has been skilfully married to excellent oak. This adds complexity and polish to the finish, without dominating the elegant fruit. The palate is textured and very tight, with peppery fruit being the main attraction. The savoury edges add interest on the finish. This took four days on the tasting bench to show its best, so give it plenty of air if you intend to drink it now. A cool climate star, this is a very fine wine of the highest quality. (13.8% alc)

Shingleback – Shiraz – D Block Reserve – 2009 – Diam (18-18.5). Extraordinarily dense, though very fine. This is all about potential now. The palate is seamless, whilst the very fine tannins and oak separate this from the ordinary. Needs 10 years, but will last much longer.

Shingleback – Shiraz – The Gate – 2009 – Diam (18+). Very finely structured, the fruit on this is more approachable than the D Block Reserve, though this is still very youthful. There is dense fruit on the palate showing coffee and plum overtones, with savoury notes that add interest on the finish. Very smart wine.

Xabregas – Shiraz – X – Spencer – Syrah – 2010 (18). Vibrant cherry and spicy to open, with lovely white pepper highlights. This is a lovely example of cool climate shiraz, where the fruit is able to express more richness than is often the case. The fruit is quite racy in the mouth, while the tannins, oak and acidity are perfectly matched. Good length and texture on the close, this is an excellent wine. (14.5% alc)

Mount Horricks – Shiraz – 2010 (17.9). The word plush comes to mind when tasting this wine. Lovely ripe fruit that is in no way overblown. On the palate, there are rich fruit flavours with hints of mint, spice and licorice to close. Very good length and mouth-feel, the finish is slightly mouth-watering courtesy, of the fine tannins and well managed acidity. More mainstream, but delicious.

Singlefile Estate – Shiraz – Frankland River – 2010 (17.9). Fine fruit on the nose here. A mix of red and black fruits that are fresh and vibrant. Elegance is the key here, with fruit that is balanced, refined, elegant and long. The winemaking supports this with judicious use of quality oak. The tannins are fine and supple and add texture to the close. Modern and elegant, this will benefit from several years in the cellar.

Shingleback – Shiraz – The Davey Estate – 2010 (17.8). Seductive nose and inky colour. Chewy fruit that, whilst not quite as deep as its big brothers here, is of excellent quality. An excellent wine to drink whilst waiting for the big guns to age.

Grant Burge – Shiraz – 5th Generation – 2010 (17.2). This is more medium- =bodied in style, with dark fruit notes on the nose. Quite plummy in the mouth with earthy notes to add interest. Well made, the fruit has been allowed to express itself more fully, with the tannins and the oak only adding texture to the silky finish. Smart wine with good length to close. Should be good value.

Mollydooker – Shiraz – The Boxer – 2010 (17). Sweet smelling fruit with licorice, spice and even a touch of tar. Rich and mouth-filling, this has vibrant, almost lush fruit that floods the palate. Savoury coffee notes on the finish, with sweet, but not aggressive oak on the close. The tannins are prolific, though fine, making this a great drink now, but also ensuring that the wine will age well for a few years. A seducer that at 16% alcohol, is warm without being overblown. Bring on the snow!

Cape Mentelle – Zinfandel – 2010 (17.8). Amazing nose that is packed full of fruit. Think Christmas cake and spice. The palate is a powerhouse of fruit, with plenty of those spicy Christmas cake characters. The length is impressive and the finish is comforting and sympathetic to the style. The vanillin oak is noticeable but in balance. The 14.5% alcohol is an amazing feat given that Zins can often tip the scales at 16%+.