Reviewed: 29 September 2012

I have a cross-section of excellent wines on show here at all price points. At the top end, the wines from John Duval are outstanding. The pick for me though was the Nottage Hill from Hardys. 2011 was not a great year for south-eastern Australian wine regions, yet this is a ripper. I suspect that fruit destined for much more expensive wine was declassified to make this superb value red.

Reviewed

John Duval – Shiraz – Eligo – 2009 (18.5 – 19). Dense fruit! Wow, this is spectacular. So tight and closed, yet so silky and soft. The quality of the fruit is outstanding. This builds and evolves for a long time. With a day or two in the bottle, this wine was breathtaking for its balance, power and sophistication.

John Duval – Shiraz – Entity – 2010 (18+). Closed and tight on the nose and only hinting at potential. The palate is remarkable. The depth to the fruit is outstanding and the length prodigious. The oak is there to add texture and depth, without dominating the silky fruit. This is still very tight and restrained, yet the power of the fruit is undeniable. Textured and tannic, this will live for a very long time and continue to improve.

Leeuwin Shiraz – Shiraz – Art Series – 2010 (18). This wine grew on me in the glass and the bottle. Quality fruit that is very long, textured, soft and balanced. This is a modern style that is dense, plump and quite delicious. The fruit is ripe though not overblown. A good drink now, or in 10 years.

Willow Bridge – Shiraz – Gravel Pit – 2011 (17.7+). A beautiful nose that entices with subtle, refined fruit and hints of savoury oak. Textured and dense, with grippy tannins, this is very tight and needs several years in the cellar to show its best. Develops chocolate/mocha fruit and tar and spice to close. Points for potential.

Vinaceous – Shiraz – Snake Charmer – 2010 (17.6). Closed and tight. Attractive palate that is restrained, yet beautifully balanced. The mouth-feel is spot on, with elegant, perfectly judged fruit married to silky tannins. The oak is a mere whisper in the background. From Mclaren Vale.

Forest Hill – Shiraz – 2009 (17.5+). Dusty nose. The palate is refined and elegant with bright red fruits. This is juicy and succulent, with lovely, mouth-watering acidity. Quality oak and the fine tannins add grip and texture to the finish. Excellent length to the fruit.

Fairbrossen – Shiraz/Viognier – Rustic Red – 2010 (17.5). Licorice, plum, earthy overtones and supple, older oak. Juicy and balanced with excellent length, the flavours really persist and the texture is spot on. A good wine for early consumption, though there is surprising depth to the fruit. Deserves food to complement the firm tannins.

Hardys – Shiraz – Nottage Hill – 2011 (17.5). Quite lifted fruit on the nose. The palate is full of mulberry/plum fruit that is dense yet refined, with licorice, cloves and spice to close. Textured and long, the oak has been deftly handled to build texture and depth, without overpowering the fine fruit. Not massive, but convincing. Brilliant winemaking to produce a wine of this quality for the price.

Tyrrels – Shiraz – Lost Block – 2010 (16.5). A more straightforward nose here, with good quality, if somewhat simple fruit and a hint of toast and cedar from the oak. Not that big or dense, but a supple wine for everyday drinking, From Heathcote.