Shiraz – The Most Versatile Grape

New Release – 10 October 2010

When it comes to the great wines of the world, obvious varieties include cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay (not to mention the great Italian and Spanish varieties). Of all of these, shiraz would have to be the most versatile grape grown in Australia.

Wines made from shiraz can vary significantly in style depending on the region that they are produced in. Cool climate wines can be full of pretty perfume and peppery fruit, while warm climate wines can be rich and powerful. These differences can be seen in regions that are very close to each other. Barossa, Clare Valley and McLaren Vale all have regional differences that are unique and distinctive.

What this means is that shiraz is a very diverse grape that produces a range of styles. This tasting highlights how good these diverse styles can be. The quality of the wines tasted was extraordinary. This would have to be the best tasting the panel has faced this year!

Brian Conway from Izway popped in this week to talk about their range of wines. There is no doubt that the wines are outstanding. The Three Brians Grenache is outstanding. From 109-year-old vines, there is a degree of concentration and finesse that is very rare. We have reviewed the Harold shiraz in this tasting. A fantastic wine in a rich style. These wines are expensive, but worth a try*.

* The Izway wines are not cheap, are relatively new to the market and have great packaging (although they have high quality corks, I would prefer an inert closure). These are quintessentially rich, old vines Barossa wines. Definitely worth a try!

Reviewed

Dalwhinnie – Shiraz – Southwest Rocks – 2008 (18.6). Cedar and a touch of vanilla to the floral nose. These continue on the palate. This has more of a sour cherry and plum fruit character that keeps the finish really fresh. The length is superb, and this proved to be the best match for food and Heather’s favourite (we had a glass over dinner).

Dalwhinnie – Shiraz – The Pinnacle – 2008 (18.5). A touch more dense, displaying both red and black fruits. White pepper combines with anise in an amalgam of aromas that are convincing and enticing. The palate is flooded with plum, spice, blueberry and licorice. The palate is quite seamless, yet the acids and tannins are firm enough to guarantee cellaring. Very youthful.

Izway – Shiraz – Harold – 2008 (18.5). Some mintiness fruit to the dense fruit. A very inky wine that is really dense and has latent power. The palate is immense and powerful, with chocolate and coffee flavours and even a touch of mint slice. Not a mainstream style, but a very impressive wine. Some plum and spice add interest on the close. Very fine and silky tannins become evident on the finish. No signs of heat on the finish.

St Hallett – Shiraz – Blackwell – 2008 (18.5). Impenetrable nose. Silky, textured, seamless and powerful, this renmains elegant throughout. There are lovely spice and plum characters, with lovely berry fruit. The length and oak integration are excellent. A superb and complete wine that has the hallmarks of greatness.

Dalwhinnie – Shiraz – The Eagle – 2005 (18.4). Remarkably youthful. Quite closed and more “serious”. Opens with some minerality and then very pretty fruit. Again there is a lovely floral note with spice overtones. The palate is dense and closed, yet everything is in place in what is an excellent wine. It needs more time than to open. (Caveat – High quality cork used).

St Hallett – Shiraz – Old Block – 2007 (18.4). More powerful and a touch inky. Dense, high quality fruit here. Wow, this is superb. The fruit is bright and fresh, yet there is a savoury character that is really exciting. The juicy fruit is long and the palate textured. The oak is evident, but balanced. A very powerful wine, yet elegant and drinkable. Perhaps the most convincing Barossa red that I have tasted from the 2007 vintage, and one with a long life assured.

Arete – Shiraz – 2008 – (18.2). Mint and cedar on the nose suggesting a vineyard that is a touch cooler. This is perfectly ripe and incredibly dense. The mouth-feel and texture are very good and the rich fruit characters dominate the supple finish. This is an impressive wine. The packaging is also very impressive, complete with metal label and oversized bottle. (Even the screw cap is much bigger than normal).

Mount Avoca – Shiraz – Reserve – 2007 (18.1). Another pretty wine. Fragrant and juicy, there are red currant and floral notes on this. Very pretty fruit on the palate combines with well judged use of cedary oak and a lovely pepper/berry finish. Note quite as dense as the Arete, but no worse off for this. A very fine wine.

Shaw and Smith – Shiraz – 2008 (18). Beautifully fragrant fruit on the nose. Savoury and complex, with mocha, cedar and spice. The palate is defined by pristine fruit. This is seamless, complex, very long and very fine. Quite superb.

Leasingham – Shiraz – Bin 61 – 2008 (17.5). Incredibly closed and dumb. This is a sound wine that has licorice, spice and some good oak use. The palate is long and a touch firm, but this will soften. Mocha and plum the dominant flavours. Needs years but delivers value. Powerful fruit.

Tintara – Shiraz – Horseshoe Row – 2008 (17.5). Closed on the nose. The palate is fantastic with fleshy, juicy fruit. There are cherry, plum and lovely spicy notes. The tannins and oak are very fine but mouth-coating and a touch dominant now. Give it 5 years.

Gilberts – Shiraz – Three Devils – 2007 (17). Not offering much on the nose initially. The palate really shines, with vibrant fruit that is juicy, yet has enough acidity and fine tannins to stop it getting blowsy. Great texture and length. Good short term drinking.

Western Ranges – Shiraz/Viognier – Julimar – 2007 (17). A touch earthy, showing leather, spice and saddle soap. The palate is succulent, long and fleshy. The finish is flooded with fine tannins that are chalky. Any oak is in the background. An old world style that will suit food.

Tintara – Shiraz – Chapter 3 – 2007 (16.5). Closed. Fresh fruit with redcurrant, cedar and spice. Not overly complex, but long and satisfying. The tannins are a touch grippy now, but these will settle.