15th November 2009

In the lead up to Christmas and the summer heat, I am always on the look out for good quality sparkling wines to drink over the season. I have to admit that I am a fan of Champagne (the French stuff) and drink very little Australian sparkling. This relates to the fact that Champagne is one wine style where the new world has yet to equal the original.

Australia makes cabernet and shiraz based wines that are the equal of the best in the world (perhaps in a different style though). The best Australian sparkling wines now approach the NV French wines in price, but do they match on quality?

The wines reviewed represent both some well known brands and some new releases. I was pleased with the overall quality, and the top wines definitely represent excellent value.

Reviewed

Deviation Road – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Brut – 2008 (17.5). More interesting and complex than most here, with fine apple fruit and subtle brioche and yeast. The palate is fine, delicate, elegant and refreshing. Good fruit and excellent balance. Not hugely complex, but good drinking. May develop in the short term. (With a RRP of $28.50 from the winery, this represents good value.)

Marri Wood Park Estate – Grandis – Chenin – Brut Reserve – 2007 (17.5). This wine is obviously different, and reflects the loire style of sparkling chenin blanc. Powerful nose with lemon, sherbet, talc and perfume. Complex and very long palate with serious fruit and a lovely mouth feel. Definitely something to try this summer. ($25 ex winery).

Wolf Blass – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Brut – Gold Label – 2006 (17.3). Some developed toastiness with a touch of honey. The palate is fine, elegant, quite complex and long. The honeyed character is there again on the finish. Enjoyable and sure to be good value.

Croser – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Brut – 2006 (16.9). A very fine wine that presents completely closed at present. This is clean and fresh but needs a few years to develop complexity and higher points. (Was certainly better the next night.)

Brown Brothers – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Brut – Patricia – 2004 (16.8). Brioche, toast and autolysis dominate the nose which is quite creamy. The palate is developed, generous and round. The acid builds on the close to add freshness.

Cosham – Pinot Noir – Brut – 2004 (16.8). Very developed colour and very fine mousse. The nose has developed still wine fruit characters. The palate is soft, round and developed. The mouth-feel and aftertaste are harmonious and there is enough acid to keep it fresh. An interesting style that is worth trying with food.

Pirie – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – Brut – NV (16.6). Some obvious toast and yeasty characters lead the nose. The palate is rich but not quite together yet. A broad and powerful style. Challenging.

Kiss Chasey – Brut – Sparkling Pink – NV (16.5). Lifted fruit in the strawberry spectrum. Long and savoury, but without great complexity. Good value at under $15.