Hosted by David Clarke from Sommeliers Australia.

Reviewed: 20 November 2012

For a country that has a reputation for producing high quality and distinctive wines, the number of South African wines that make it on to the Australian Market is very small. Subsequently, my exposure to these wines is very limited. When presented with the opportunity to try 18 high quality wines, I hopped straight on a plane to Sydney to attend this tasting. The wines were selected on the basis of quality and style.

My first impressions are that there are some very high quality wines being made and they can represent excellent value in South Africa. It remains to be seen how competitive the pricing will be if the wines ever make it to Australia.

When it comes to style, based on this limited sample, there seems to be a clear division between the very ripe, high oak styles and the modern, fresh and leaner examples. My preference, clearly, was for the latter.

Despite my preconceptions, Pinotage makes up less than 10% of the wines produced in South Africa. Cork issues prevented me from reviewing any here.

A special thanks to Fix St James for hosting the tasting.

Reviewed

David Nieuwoudt – Semillon – Ghost Corner – 2010 (17). From Elim. Very complex nose that has minerals, struck match and really grassy, herbaceous fruit. There is creamy lees over grassy fruit on the palate. Long, the lemony acid really drives the finish. A complex wine of some charm.

Ataraxia – Sauvignon Blanc (+Semillon) – 2012 (16.8). From Western Cape. Clean, fresh nose with tropical fruit over lanolin, lantana and musk. The finish is uncomplicated and refreshing with a touch of creaminess to close. Drink up any warm afternoon.

Cape Point Vineyards – Sauvignon Blanc – Reserve – 2010 (17.2). From Cape Point. Some funky fruit notes that blow off very quickly to reveal complex, oak influenced, tropical fruit and a touch of developing honey. This has lees and barrel ferment notes on the nose and palate that contribute to the complex and long finish. Quite gentle and approachable, this would be easy to pair with seafood.

Mullineux – Chenin Blanc/Clairette Blanc/Viognier – 2011 (17 – 17.5). From Swartland. Round and rich, the colour and nose is quite golden. The nose is all about minerals and spice. Honeyed and textured, the finish is quite lean and has chalky texture on the close. Quite a neutral/oxidative style that places texture and mouth-feel ahead of primary fruit. Produced in old oak barrels which helps build the texture. Antipasto would pair with this very well.

Beaumont – Chenin Blanc – Hope Marguerite – 2011 (16.8). From Bot River. Quite subdued initially, this has lemon and zesty fruit. The palate has sweet fruit and is round and generous. Quite viscous, the hint of residual sugar really fleshes out the middle palate. There is citrus fruit on the close with a touch of sherbet and spice. Quite long and very easy to drink.

Ken Forrester Wines – Chenin Blanc – FMC – 2010 (17.8). From Stellenbosch. A complex nose that combines winemaker’s inputs with citrus and cloves. The palate is rich, dense and textured. The fruit and the oak combine with the honeyed fruit and a touch of sugar to confer great length and depth of flavour. Despite the richness, the lovely acid backbone gives this wine life. A powerful wine that has some similarities with Vouvray. There is a component of Botrytis and the wine spends a year in new 400l oak. (14% alc, 6gm/l residual sugar). Definitely a wine to try if you get the chance.

Hamilton Russell Vineyards – Chardonnay – 2011 (18+). From Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. Fresh and lively stone-fruit on the nose, with some nutty fruit and mineral characters. The palate has lemon and creamy barrel ferment/lees texture. The acid carries the fruit right to the close and ensures that this will age well. The oak has been superbly handled and all components are in place, this just needs a few years to blossom. 13% alcohol.

Klein Constantia – Muscat de Frontignan – Vin de Constance – 2007 (18.5). From Constantia. One of the most famous wines in history, once more highly priced than the great Bordeauxs. Gorgeous nose that shows honey and spice, with lovely apricot/dried apricot fruit and subtle nutty aromas. Whilst there is tremendous power to the apricot fruit, there is enough acidity to complement the viscous mouth-feel. Bitter almond and apricot kernel apparent on the close with outstanding length. The sweetness is the perfect counterpart to the rich fruit. I found myself almost chewing the wine more than a minute after the last sip was swallowed.

Paul Cluver – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17+). From Elgin. Dense dark fruits here. Black cherry and firm oak on both the nose and the palate with a touch of reductive notes now. This is austere, tart and very long. An age-worthy wine that will blossom in 10 years, but is firm right now.

Bouchard Finlayson – Sangiovese/Pinot Noir/Nebbiolo/Mouvedre/Barbera/Shiraz – Hannibal – 2010 (17). From Walker Bay. A very drying style where the tannin structure and muted fruit comes from the sangiovese. Long and savoury, this will pair very well with a good steak. Very drying and tart, this will age well in the medium term.

AA Badenhorst Family Wines – Shiraz Blend – 2009 (17.5). From Swartland. Pepper and spice over chocolate fruit on the nose. The palate is peppery, with fine, though chewy tannins. The souring finish adds life and makes this easy to pair with food. There is chocolate, coffee, licorice and a touch of tar to close. An elegant wine that needs a few years to flesh out.

The Sadie Family – Columella – 2009 (18+). From Swartland. Complex nose that has a combination of ripe fruits and savoury notes. Chocolate, mocha and a touch of vanillin oak on a dense, textured, long and spicy palate. This is a significant wine. The oak is very high quality, the length is prodigious and the texture evolving. Powerful and intense, this deserves 10 + years in the cellar. Superb!

Rust en Vrede – Shiraz – 2010 (17). From Stellenbosch. Really chocolate-like fruit that is rich, ripe and forward. On the nose there is cherry and red berry fruit that is forward and approachable. A riper style and less structured, this appeals as an excellent drink-now wine. 15% alcohol, but does not appear in any way hot. Think McLaren Vale for style. The estate was started in 1694 and the wines are biodynamic.

De Trafford –Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Shiraz/Cabernet Franc – Elevation 393 – 2007 (18+). From Stellenbosch. Floral red fruits with herbal highlights. This reminds me of walking through my tomato plants, the hints of tomato leaf characters rising above the fruit. The palate is lean, yet powerful, the herbal characters complementing the fruit well. The oak is apparent, but balances the fruit well. Really needs time to evolve.

De Krans – Touriga National/Tinta Barocca/Souzao – Cape Vintage Reserve – 2008 (17.5). From Calitzdorp. Smells like port! Think fruitcake with an alcohol lift. The rich, fruitcake-like characters continue on the palate. Made like a port, this will age very well. In South Africa, this sells for around $10 per bottle and is an absolute bargain.