New Release Shiraz/Blends – November 2017
20th November 2017
There are a very few wineries in Australia who, day in and day out, produce outstanding wines at prices that must surely make other winemakers cry. Two such wineries are Shingleback and Angove. Both are from McLaren Vale in South Australia, and both make extraordinary wines for the price.
Reviewed
Cape Mentelle – Shiraz – 2015 (18.5/20 – $41). Dense, powerful fruit on the nose, while the palate is flooded with chocolate/plum fruit. The tannins are barely perceptible on the finish, with the acid carrying the palate. It is only right on the close of the very long palate that the grip becomes evident. Like the 2016 Chardonnay, this wine demonstrates more fruit weight that I recall from previous recent vintages. Now – 20 years
Te Aro Estate – Shiraz – Charred Door – 2015 (18.4/20). Generous, powerful and intense fruit on the nose. The succulent ripe fruit coats the entire palate and lingers for some time. Refined, yet powerful, with the tannins really kicking in on the close. Oak matches the fruit well. A serious wine that could be drunk with pleasure now, or cellared for a decade or more. 15.6% alcohol, but takes this in its stride. Bravo!
Evans & Tate – Shiraz – Redbrook – 2012 (18.2+). Dark plum fruits here. Concentrated and dense, with chocolate and coffee highlights. The palate is closed and tight, with the fine tannins and oak blanketing the fruit. The mouth-feel is excellent and the length noteworthy, with excellent acidity. Needs 10 years to hit its straps.
O’leary Walker – Shiraz – Claire – Reserve – 2013 (18+/20). From 100 year-old vines. Lovely wine, with ripe, silky fruit and savoury/spice notes that add interest. Cherry and mint on the palate, with the oak adding depth, whilst the fine tannins start to close down the fruit on the finish. The souring acidity keeps the palate fresh and alive, despite the density of the fruit.
Woodvale – GSM – Hootenanny – 2014 (18/20). Initially a touch closed, but quickly opens up to show sweet fruit as well as cloves and cinnamon/spice notes. The fruit is succulent and long, and, whilst the palate initially appears straightforward, the length and persistence are deceptive. Great drinking over the next 5 – 8 years.
Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2016 (17.8/20 – $15). An excellent wine that is focussed and precise. The fruit quality is excellent, but it needs to be coaxed from the glass right now. With air, the sweet fruit opens to show its class with liquorice and menthol highlights. Great value!
Te Aro Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – Jokers Grin – 2015 (17.8/20). This is all about the ripe fresh fruit, though there is also excellent texture and length. The fine tannins get a bit chewy on the close, adding to the mouth-feel. Excellent short-term drinking.
Angove – Shiraz – Wild Olive – Organic – 2016 (17.7/20 – $18). Another cracking wine from this in-form producer. There are loads of dark fruit, in a brooding, serious style. Supple fruit at first, however from the mid-palate, things are a little subdued, with the tannins and acid keeping a lid on the fruit. Will reward decanting now, or short-midterm cellaring.
After Hours – Shiraz – Oliver – 2015 (17.5++/20). I like this a lot. Dense, savoury fruit with real depth. Restrained, yet there is decent weight on the palate. The tannins are quite fine but steamroll the fruit from the mid-palate onwards. Likely to be excellent with a decade or two in the cellar.