Grosset 2023 Vintage Rieslings
Barry Weinman: 27th September 2023
The tasting panel was uniformly stunned by the breathtaking beauty of the 2023 Grosset rieslings. They are as close to perfection as I could possibly imagine.
The highlight of the tasting was the absolutely stunning Alea. I cannot recall trying a finer off-dry Australian wine.
It was also fascinating to explore the contrasting styles of the three wines, with the intensity of the Springvale contrasting with the ethereal nature of the Polish Hill.
But it does not matter which wine you try, you will not be disappointed.
We tried these wines in a large tasting of premium Australian rieslings and the other standout for me was the stunning quality of the 2022 Bin 51 from Penfolds.
Whilst none of these wines are cheap by Australian riesling standards, they are absolute bargains in the broader context of fine wine.
Reviewed
Grosset – Alea – Riesling – 2023. So very pale in the glass, with just a slight tinge of straw to the otherwise clear liquid. This is both fragrant and perfumed, yet possessing great intensity of fruit. On the palate, musk, lime, talc, perfume and even a hint of bubble-gum all express in what can only be described as a stunning wine. Whilst silky, the phenolics do add texture and mouthfeel. The persistence of this wine must be experienced to be believed, lingering for what felt like minutes. And the residual sugar is perfectly judged making for a brilliant drink. Why wait? 12.5% alc, 97pts.
Grosset- Springvale – Riesling – 2023. OMG. This is so, so beautiful and fragrant, with perfumed musk, talc and incense notes. The palate is intense, reserved, powerful and near seamless. The length and persistence are noteworthy; however this is a touch austere right now and would really benefit from 5 – 10 years in the cellar. With air, the perfumed fruit builds and builds on the palate and is oh-so-pretty and this is supported by impressive minerality. Again, the colour is very pale indeed. A superb wine. 12.9% alc, 96pts.
Grosset – Polish Hill – Riesling – 2023. This is the perfect counterpoint to the Alea. Perfumed and floral, but this is an exercise in restraint. Supple, silky and fine, with gossamer-like acid that shrouds the fruit bu tin no way impedes the expression. Length and persistence are exemplary. What set this apart for me is the fact that this would be equally enjoyable drunk any time over the next 20 years.12.9% alc, 96+pts.
Penfolds – Bin 51 – Riesling – 2022. Lifted, vibrant and pure, with minerality and subtle perfume complementing the zesty citrus notes. The palate has excellent balance supported by gently texturing phenolics and the minerality really makes an impact on the finish. With near seamless palate transition, as well as excellent length and persistence, this really is very good indeed. The next day, this was superb drinking, so give it plenty of air if you are planning on drinking this in its youthful prime. 11.5% alc, 95pts – $50.
Plantagenet – Wyjup Collection – Riesling – 2022. This is a lovely combination of fleshy fruit and perfumed, almost floral notes. The palate is supple, but there is a core of citrusy acid that defines the finish right now. A very polished wine which is an excellent drink now, but this will be at its best in a decade’s time. 12% alc – 94pts.