Howard Park: A Sparkling Future
Barry Weinman: 15th September 2024
Given that he had spent more than a decade under the guidance of the legendary Ed Carr at Arras, the appointment of Nic Bowen in 2021 to the role of Chief Winemaker at Howard Park clearly signalled the winery’s intentions to be in the upper echelon of Australian sparkling wine producers.
And my first impressions on trying the sparkling wines that have been made under Nic’s stewardship are very positive indeed.
What I was not prepared for was just how breathtakingly good other wines in the portfolio have become.
In close partnership with senior winemaker Mark Bailey and the viticultural team (led by David Botting), the already good wines at Howard Park have been taken to another level.
The soon to be released 2022 cabernets and 2023 chardonnays are nothing short of extraordinary.
Members of the tasting panel sat down with Nic and Mark to hear about the approach that is being taken in the vineyard and winery which has led to the evolution of style across the range.
Despite the quality of the latest releases, the team are still striving to improve quality and the consistency of styles, with tweaks to the oak regime part of the jigsaw.
The establishment of a reserve wine program for the sparkling wines is another important initiative to further refine the style of the sparkling program.
N.B. This was not a blind tasting, please use my points as an indicator only.
Reviewed
Howard Park – Petit Jeté – Blanc de Blancs – NV. The aim for this wine is to offer a “compelling consumer offering”, and the team have delivered on this in spades. Fine, fresh and lithe, I really like the line and length of flavours on the palate. The gentle peach fruit really builds and is quite delightful. The ripeness of the fruit has allowed for an extra-brut style, with only 4gm/l dosage. 100% Pemberton fruit, 18 months on lees (2022 base wine), remarkable value. 92pts – $33.
Howard Park – Jeté – Premier Brut – NV. This a step up in richness and texture, the pinot fruit really adding to the mix. The autolytic characters add depth, texture and gentle richness. Despite all the work in the winery, the focus here is on preserving the quality fruit, which really builds in the mouth. There is a fine mousse and excellent mouthfeel.
A pinot dominant blend, the fruit comes from the Mount Barrow Vineyard in Mt Barker. 3gm/l dosage. 30 months on lees. 2020 base. 93pts – $44.
Howard Park – Flint Rock – Riesling – 2023. The very pretty and perfumed fruit comes from Mt Barker and Frankland. The palate has has hints of of talc and zest, fine acidity and a minerality that adds zip to the finish. Lighter weight fruit and excellent drinking. 12.0% alc, 93pts – $30.
Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2023. This is very impactful, with ripe fruit and complex winemaking inputs flooding the senses. This is really very good. There is a richness and generosity running the length of the palate which develops pomelo/grapefruit notes in addition to more typical stone fruit characters. The acid is a highlight and adds drive to the finish. Great drinking now – 5 years. Hand picked, whole bunch pressed, 25% new oak puncheons. 12.5% alc, 95pts – $65.
Howard Park – Allingham – Chardonnay – 2023. Finer, more subtle and more restrained than the estate. Not taut, but a little shy today. But that is not doing this wine justice, as the quality of the fruit and winemaking is superb. There is a dangerous drinkability to this wine, however, this will be really hitting its peak in 5+ years. The oak (25% new barriques) is very fine and textured, adding weight and gravitas rather than overt flavours. Only a small proportion went through malolactic fermentation.
The fruit for this wine comes from the Block 5 on the Allingham vineyard in Karridale, which is planted to Gingin clone. The cooler subregion presenting a very refined style. 12.5% alc. 96pts – $100.
Marchand & Burch – Chardonnay – 2023. Here, things have been pared back and the texture and mouthfeel take centre stage. The acid is moving to pineapple, with the fruit adding white peach undertones. The quality oak is palpable, without being overt. Sitting in the glass, this blossoms. It is a higher acid style that demands food if drunk early, (tempura whiting for example), and will be at its best with medium term cellaring. From the Mount Barrow vineyard in Mt Barker, 40% new oak, partial malolactic fermentation.12.5% alc, 95-96pts – $95.
Howard Park – Flint Rock – Shiraz – 2023. The purple colour is most attractive. This is all about the fruit. Pretty, perfumed, lithe and fresh, with cherry, plum and gentle spice. Whilst the winemaking feels quite low intervention, the texture and mouthfeel are a highlight, with mineral-laden tannins adding depth and texture. Buy it, drink it, be happy. 14.0% alc, 93pts – $30.
Howard Park – Scotsdale – Shiraz – 2022. This turns things up a notch with greater depth and density of fruit. The overt berry characters have been toned down compared to the Flint Rock, but this is made up for with more structure and power. The cherry fruit builds, but it is the silky texture, supported by supple oak that is the highlight. Great drinking any time over the next 15 years. 14.0% alc, 94pts – $40.
Howard Park – Leston – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Oh wow. The prettiness of the fruit is arresting, supported by seasoned oak and firm tannins. This is not necessarily accessible, but it is impactful. With air, the presumed fruit really builds, and has clearly been protected during the winemaking process. Give it 10 years and be rewarded. 14.5% alc, 95pts – $TBC.
Howard Park – Abercrombie – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. This takes everything to another level. Superb fruit which has hints of blueberry, but is much darker toned than the Miamup. The oak handling perfectly frames the fruit, allowing the fruit to be the focus, yet providing depth, power and texture. The mouthfeel and silky tannins are a highlight, contributing to a wine that is so approachable now, even thought it has clearly been built to age long term. Ultimately though, this is taut and closed, and needs years to reach its drinking peak. Wonderful wine. Houghton clone fruit, from the Leston vineyard,18 months in barriques (30% new). 14.5% alc – 97+pts – $155.
