Rhone Varietals (and Friends)

26 March 2025: Barry Weinman

There has been a plethora of wines that I have reviewed over the summer, so expect a number of reviews over the next few weeks.

To get things started, here is a cross section of Rhone varietals that particularly impressed for either value or outright quality (or both).

The majority are grenache and shiraz, but there are also two worthwhile Rhone whites that are available at Dan’s. The latter come with a caveat; I opened four bottles and two had cork taint (both reds).

Oh, and it is not wine, but the Echuca Chocolate Company chocolate block that accompanied the St Anne’s Shiraz was top notch indeed!

The Wines

Thistledown – Charming Man – Grenache – 2023. This is quite splendid. The fruit is vibrant and fresh, with lovely red fruit characters bouncing around the palate. There is serious structure from the winemaking inputs, but these only serve to highlight the fruit, rather than closing down the palate. The pretty, pretty fruit is intense and subtle all at once. A superstar which has received huge reviews elsewhere. Single vineyard in Clarendon in the McLaren Vale. 96+pts – $100.

Sandalford – Prindiville Reserve – Shiraz – 2018. Cooler fruit characters that, whilst fine, are intense and packed with subtle power. The fruit is more cherry than plum, reflecting the cooler region. Oak is an aid to mouthfeel and texture, rather than an overt character This is an impressive wine that is remarkably good drinking already. The thought of sitting down to a steak or rich ragout accompanied by a glass of this wine is very appealing indeed.14.5% alc – 95pts.

Yangarra – Ovitelli – Grenache – 2022. This is very impressive, but is an unusual style in that the fruit has been pared back, and is accompanied by higher acidity which cuts across the palate. But there is depth and power sitting underneath, with liquorice, spice and savoury fruit characters building across the length of the palate. Excellent length, and the flavours linger for an age. The souring acidity is a feature on the finish and confers cellarability, whilst also ensuring that this will be a great accompaniment to roast lamb or a rich tomato based vegetable ragout. 95pts – 14.5% – $90.

Penfolds – Bin 28 – Shiraz – 2022. Lovely fruit. Saturated plum and menthol notes, taut, texturing acidity and structured oak all meld together into a wine that is already very approachable. But surely the best is to come, given the level of complexity that the palate exhibits, with notes of coffee, chocolate and eastern spices. Powerful and age-worthy. 14.5% alc – 95pts.

Sandalford – Estate Reserve – Shiraz -2019. Intense and powerful, with chocolate/berry/coffee characters balanced by souring cherry acidity. This is impactful and mouthcoating, with a panoply of flavours cascading across the palate. The acidity is the unsung hero, powering the finish and keeping the palate fresh and alive. Now or later? There is no wrong answer to that question. 15.0% alc – 94-95pts.

Maison Les Alexandrins – Crozes-Hermitage – Marsanne/Rousanne – 2022. Slightly darker hue than the CDR – straw coloured. Lovely nose, with gentle apricot and stone fruit notes. The mouthfeel has attractive viscosity and texture, and the stonefruit notes run the length of the palate. This is very good. Ready to drink and would accompany a range of foods, given the way the gentle grip holds the finish together. A complete wine that is worth seeking out. 93pts – 13% alc – $50.

Welland – Valley & Valley – Shiraz – 2023 Sweet, ripe fruit which is both attractive and addictive to smell. The palate has vibrancy and succulent fruit, with gentle vanillin oak characters adding interest and depth. Remarkably, the finish is near seamless, with the fleshy fruit slowly transitioning to show the acid and tannin backbone that keeps the whole package together. The perfect BBQ wine? This may be it. If you need an approachable, easy drinking red with plenty of fruit, then this is an excellent choice. 14.5% alc – 93pts – $30.00

Welland – Valley & Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. This appears more serious on the nose than the shiraz, with the structural components (tannins and acidity) providing a counterfoil to the well-judged fruit. The finish is commendable for the way the fruit and structure meld into an excellent drink. Try with a decent steak if that is your wish. Now – 5 years. 14.5% – 93pts – $30.00

St Anne’s – Shiraz – 2022. Cooler, focused fruit that is supple, textured, long and persistent. The fruit here is more medium bodied, but is very dark toned, with plum notes and an almost chocolate-like velvety texture and decent intensity. A smart wine that would be great by the glass now, but will also build depth and complexity in the bottle. Nice structure and palate. A versatile wine. From Bendigo. 14.5% alc, 93pts – $25.

Maison Les Alexandrins – Cotes-Du-Rhone – Blanc – 2023. Fresh, vibrant and downright fun. Passionfruit and tropical notes flood the palate, accompanied by refreshing acidity and hints of spice. This would be perfect to share on a warm afternoon, when more serious wines would be wasted. 13.5% – 91pts – $25

Echuca Chocolate Company – Dark Chocolate Bar. This is the sister company to St Anne’s Winery and is, judging by the bar of dark chocolate that we tried, even more exciting than the St Anne’s wine. The expert panel (my wife and children) thought this was amongst the best Australian chocolate that they have ever had. 95pts.