Lenton Brae – Value meets style
Barry Weinman: 25th July 2025.
With the first vineyard being planted in 1982, Lenton Brae has long been part of the Margaret River wine scene. Part of the interest for me related to the fact that founder Bruce Tomlinson did not stick to the script for Margaret River, with pinot blanc being one of the key varieties planted, along with a dedicated focus on making age-worthy sauvignon blanc-based wines.
In later years, the venture experienced some turbulent times, with ownership ultimately transitioning to the Jackson family in 2020.
Judging by recent tastings, Lenton Brae is back in fine form under the watch of Vanessa Carson (winemaker) and Russel Cocker (viticulturalist).
The premium wines (under the Wilyabrup label) are very fine indeed. The 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon is a stately, if somewhat reserved example of what Margaret River does best. This is a very fine and age-worthy wine that needs a decade to really start to shine. In contrast, the 2022 Wilyabrub Cabernet Sauvignon is already an excellent drink straight from the get-go. But it is also a wine that is clearly capable of extended aging and, at $80 ex-winery, seems like good value.
Reviewed.
Lenton Brae – Southside – Chardonnay – 2024. Lovely wine. Gentle toast, supple fruit, a touch of viscosity and texture all contribute to a compelling offering, with almond meal characters adding interest in the background. This is a fine, elegant chardonnay, and a beautiful drink. The length and persistence of flavours were a highlight. Whilst delicious now, this should also develop more weight with a few years in bottle. 13.0% alc – 94pts – $38.
Lenton Brae – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2024. Lifted, zesty and fresh. Tropical fruit abounds on both the nose and palate supported by gentle phenolics that add texture and a touch of grip on the finish to keep the fruit in balance. Excellent length and persistence, I would not be surprised if there was a touch of barrel ferment in the blend, as the bitter-almond phenolics add impact. The acidity has been really well handled, adding the final touches to a smart wine. Will be popular in the warmer months and represents good value. 73% semillon from 40y/o estate vines. 30% of the wine was fermented in new French oak and spent 2 months on lees. 13.0% alc – 92pts – $24.
Lenton Brae – Cabernet/Merlot – 2023. Wow. For a wine of this price, this has some real interest. There is an inky quality in the blue fruits, but the acidity and tannins act to keep everything in balance, However the tannins are not the fun police. They provide the structure to make this a very enjoyable wine that appears to have been made with the intention of providing early-drinking pleasure, and the winemakers have nailed it. The supple texture and cleansing acidity made this a joy to drink, but there is enough depth to carry some decent food. A bargain, and all the more remarkable given that a portion of this wine was likely to be aged in new French oak. 13.5% alc, 93pts – $28.