On the Tasting Bench: June 2025.
Barry Weinman: 27th July 2025
Here is a round up of some of the better wines reviewed in the last month that did not make it into other tasting notes.
A highlight for me was the 3drops pinot. Brilliant drinking and good value.
And the panel was very impressed with the overall quality of the wines from Fermoy Estate. The Reserve label wines were the standout.
Reviewed
Flametree – Shiraz – 2023. There is more structure here, yet there are still layers of ripe fruit within this. I love the fact that this is immediately enjoyable, with the fruit and structural components presenting harmoniously. Whilst this will be a great drink on its own, the structure makes for an excellent pairing with lamb shanks or a ratatouille, where the tannins and acid will help cut through the richness of the food. 14% alc, 93pts.
Fermoy Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. On the first whiff, a most impressive wine. Seamless, fine, elegant, this is a masterpiece of winemaking, taking high quality fruit and massaging it into a complete wine. The ripe fruit is a feature. Polished, texturing tannins really add to the package. Classical cabernet and already excellent drinking with some time in a decanter. 14.0% – 94pts.
Fermoy Estate – Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Whilst this showed well straight out of the bottle, it was more the texture and structure that impressed rather than the fruit per se. But over the next two days, the red and black fruits really started to shine, absorbing the oak and tannins into a seamless, harmonious package. The fruit is cooler in character, reflecting the vintage, but is perfectly ripe within this context. From Wilyabrup. 14.0% alc – 95+pts.
Fermoy Estate – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. A very fine wine, with taut acidity complementing the pristine stone fruit characters. There is a purity to the fruit that is most attractive, with the barrel and lees work really pared back, allowing the fruit to shine. This is a wine that could happily be drunk on its own or with the delicious whiting at Lamonts. 13.0% alc – 95pts.
Domaine Naturalist – Artus – Chardonnay – 2023. Here, the winemaking components have been turned up a notch, but fortunately, there is the fruit power and quality to carry this with aplomb. The long, savoury, almost saline finish rounds out a powerhouse chardonnay. Worth trying if you get the chance, as this is a very good wine, but some may find the style a little much. 13% alc – 94pts.
Rowe – Single Site – Chardonnay. 2024. Wow. This is a lovely start to the chardonnay tasting. Pristine, ripe peach fruit leads to fresh/invigorating acidity that drives the palate. Oak adds texture and complexity, and although a touch obvious right now, will settle back into the fruit with 6 – 12 months in bottle. Impressive fruit quality. Give it a couple of years for the acid to soften. Vanilla tones to the oak were appreciated as was the rich, gently creamy mouthfeel. From Karridale, Gingin Clone, 30% new oak. 13.0% alc – 94pts.
Ferngrove – The Stirlings – Ellen Peak – Chardonnay – 2023. This is very smart indeed. Here, there is a touch more astringency, with the nutty texture a key feature of the wine. Excellent fruit, the stone fruit characters are laden with supple minerality, with hints of curry leaf drifting in and out of focus. The texture is a highlight, balancing creamy characters with more textural, slightly astringent notes which add life and balance. The oak is super fine and perfectly paired with the fruit. This represents fine drinking regardless. …great fruit, great length. Single Vineyard 200 cases, whole bunch, 35% new oak. 12.5% alc – 94+pts – $65.00
Domaine Naturalist – Purus – Chardonnay – 2023. Super fine, super elegant, super restrained, super wine. This is a reserved, restrained rendition of chardonnay which, despite its reticence, is striking for the way the acidity and fruit meld into a seamless palate transition. Delicate? Yes, and delightful. Such a contrast to the Artus and, ultimately, my preference. 12.4% alc, 95pts – $65.
Castle Rock – Pinot Noir – 2024. This wine may be the entry-level pinot in the Castle Rock range, but it is also a cracking drink, combining very good fruit and polished winemaking. Red fruits (strawberry and cherry), supple tannins, silky oak and focused acidity combine to make this a very compelling package. Quite serious, the winemaking inputs really add. Spent ten months in French oak (26% new) and included 13% whole bunch in the ferment. From the Porongorups. 13.8% – 93pts – $46.
3drops – Pinot Noir – 2024. This is a cracking wine. The depth of flavours here is the standout feature, with the fruit unfolding in layers along the length of the palate. Seamless, supple and slurpable, the texture is quite superb, with the tannins and acid cosseting the fruit in a blanket of goodness. A wonderful wine with great purity of fruit that has an intense cherry-like core. Fruit comes from the Patterson Vineyard. The wine was made by Rob Diletti and spent 10 months in Oak (24% new). At $40, this is something of a bargain. Put some in your mouth and be happy. 14.0% – 95pts – $40.