Barry Weinman | September 2025
We were recently on the road in the Great Southern to meet with some of the key producers in the region, with a focus on Denmark and Porongurup.
First up was Forest Hill, who surely must be one of the unsung heroes of the Western Australian wine industry. The quality of the wines produced, particularly under the “Block” range, is superb and tremendously underpriced in the global context.
Three drivers of their success are:
- Unique, mature vineyards in Mt Barker, the oldest dating back to the mid-70s
- High-quality winemaking led by the very capable Liam Carmody
- Over-delivering on value
While there are excellent wines throughout the range, for me, this is where the most interest lies.
Few will be surprised to hear that the 2025 Rieslings are superstars. But there is little awareness of just how good the Block 5 Cabernet is, given that it still sells for $80 and is in top form. This has won the Halliday Cabernet Challenge twice in recent vintages.
The consistency of the wines across the range was the highlight. Be it the Block 8 Chardonnay or the Block 9 Shiraz. And while it does not carry the “Block” name, the Cabernet Malbec in the Heritage range is a brilliant drink.
Finally, watch out for microscopic quantities of an experimental Block 1 Riesling. Yet to be named, this was a tiny batch of fruit that was made into a Germanic style, with residual sugar in the Kabinett range (30-35g/L). Only 18 dozen were produced!
REVIEWS*
* Please note that the wines were not tasted blind, so the points are indicative.
Forest Hill Riesling 2025
A blend of vineyards, including a small proportion of Frankland fruit, due to the low yields this vintage. Lovely floral and apple blossom fruit, with a core of steely minerality. Fruit perfectly ripe. Viscous, steely, textured. Excellent length and persistence.
93+ points | $30
Forest Hill Riesling Block 2 2025
More phenolics here, and much more intensity. Intense lime juice, hints of toast and even a touch of struck match minerality. Compared to the Block 1, this is moving to a more Germanic style; the hint of residual sugar adds texture and drinkability, without adding any overt sweetness. The acid is the hero here, seamlessly driving the palate without adding any aggressiveness. A textural wine that is superb drinking now on its own, or with food, but is likely to age well in the medium term.
Drink: Now-2030 | 96 points | $40
Forest Hill Riesling Block 1 2025
2025 was a more typical year, though harvest was 2-3 weeks earlier than usual. Across the board, grapes were picked in optimal conditions and have resulted in a wine that is stunningly pure. This is very fresh: lime, jasmine and so much more. The palate is so long and powerful, with a refreshing ocean-spray saline tang that rips across the palate. The fruit was picked at perfect ripeness, riper than is typical for Australian Riesling, which adds texture and mouthfeel from the subtle phenolics without sacrificing precision. From the original plantings.
97 points | $TBC
Forest Hill Riesling Block 1 2024
A warmer, earlier vintage has resulted in more intense, powerful fruit and increased phenolic interplay. This is quite different to the 2025. The aromatics are down while the texture and power are palpable on the palate. While the style is a little atypical, this is a very powerful, age-worthy wine. Only 80 dozen made. A bargain.
96 points | $55
Forest Hill Block 8 Chardonnay 2024
This is a powerful, intense style of wine, with great depth of aromas and flavours. The nose leads with worked characters such as curry leaf, minerals, flint and struck match from the barrel and lees work, with ripe peach and nectarine characters building in the glass and on the palate. The almond meal nuttiness is a feature, as is the texture and mouthfeel. Fantastic drinking now, but this should open up in 2-3 years and look even better. A Burgundian style. Fruit comes from the top 14 rows of the vineyard planted in 1995, was hand-picked over three runs and was barrel fermented on solids in French oak (20% new).
95 points | $60
Forest Hill Block 9 Shiraz 2023
Pristine, precise and poised, this is definitely in the northern Rhône style, with spice weaved through the taut berry fruit. Anise, fennel and spice build on the finish that is seamless, beautifully textured and supported by graphite-like tannins. A superstar from an excellent vintage. Block 9 was planted in 1985 and has 1.6 hectares under vine. The fruit was harvested in multiple passes, with individual parcels vinified separately. 20% whole bunch fermentation included and the wine was aged in older 600L barrels.
95 points
Forest Hill Cabernet Malbec 2023
Wow. The blueberry fruit is just spectacular. So fresh and pretty, with remarkably fine tannins and oak in perfect balance with the fruit. The fruit quality is just superb. Medium-bodied, with a touch of savoury bay leaf and hints of violet. Incredible length and persistence. A superb drink now, or any time over the next 10-15 years. The Cabernet comes from Block 7, 1975 plantings of Houghton clone. 35% Malbec from 20-year-old vines, and sees almost no new oak. 180 cases produced.
96 points
Forest Hill Block 5 Cabernet Sauvignon 2023
Stunning wine. So intense and powerful, yet seamless and silky in the same breath. The fruit takes on darker tones compared to the Cabernet Malbec, with a brambly, almost earthy component sitting behind the blackberry fruit. With air, the pretty fruit really builds, gaining depth and intensity. On the very close, the textural grippy components also build, adding important textural components. 25% new 300L French oak barrels. Best rows of the block are used in this wine, particularly those from the crest of the ridge on the vineyard. 250 cases made.
97 points | $80