On the Tasting Bench: March 2026

Here are three of the highlights from the last few weeks of tasting.

The 2023 Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay is another stunning rendition of this wine, and the 2023 Moss Wood cabernet is the best young Moss Wood that I have tasted in several years.

And a wine that I know nothing about, but charmed the panel was the Thunderstone Pinot Noir 2024. Great stuff!

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Chardonnay – 2023. A totally sublime wine. The perfect intersection between fruit weight, ripeness, acidity and oak. Plenty of ripe peach, but this is complemented by more savoury almond-like nuttiness and distinct minerality on the palate. I can even imagine a hint of sea-spray on the finish. Great length and persistence of flavours, with the textural components continuing to excite long after the fruit has dissipated. Lime notes too close. A superstar! 13.5% alc | 97 points

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. Wow. Whilst this was served a little warm (it has been a warm March), the underlying quality is hard to ignore. Depth, power and precision are the hallmarks of this wine. Silky, supple, with a degree of plushness that is most attractive. It is the density and complexity of fruit that stands this apart. The best Moss Wood that I have tried in several years. 14.0% alc | 96 points

Houghton – Gladstones – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. This is a superstar. Intense, powerful, sublime. The fruit quality is stunning, and the winemaking does not get any better. Spectacular. Silky and powerful, at the same time. A bargain! 96 points

Thunderstone – Porongurup – Pinot Noir – 2024. Looks, smells and tastes like pinot, which is a great start. But there is much more to this wine. There is a degree of intensity and gravitas to the high-quality fruit. On the nose, the fruit presents as strawberry, whilst on the palate, this takes on a cherry tone, with savoury notes really adding to the palate. The mouthfeel is excellent and, whilst not exactly plush, is near seamless and very commendable. The refreshing acidity is an important, and positive contributor. An excellent drink now, but will be even better with a couple of years in bottle. A very appealing wine. 13.5% alc | 95 points | $67