Reds for the Cooler Months

Barry Weinman: 31^st May 2025

After the intense focus on chardonnay for the last few months, it is time to look at some of the superb reds that have stood out with the panel.

One of the most noteworthy wines was Grosset’s Gaia cabernet. In amongst many of WA’s superstars, the 2023 vintage was a standout. Yes, it is a subtly different expression compared to its Margaret River counterparts, but it stands up well against the best. And the relative value is very good.

Speaking of value, Houghton’s 2020 Gladstone set the cat among the pigeons, coming out with the equal highest points at a recent tasting. $105 is still an expensive wine, but it is very worthwhile.

Reviewed

Houghton – Gladstones – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. This is quite spectacular. The depth and intrinsic power of this wine is evident from the very first whiff. Blueberry, black currant, cedar and subtle spice all meld into a compelling bouquet. Fine, graphite-like tannins are silky and, whilst providing an almost velvety texture and structure, are remarkable for the way they allow the fruit to remain the focus. Enormous length of flavours. 13.75% alc – 96 – 97pts – $105.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. The vibrant red-berry fruit is the key focus here from the first sniff to the very end of the palate. The oak and tannins are nestled within the fruit, but are for all intents and purposes, completely invisible. With air, the fruit builds depth, yet this remains superbly drinkable. and the fruit builds and builds, cascading in layers across the palate. 14.0% alc – 95+pts.

Sandalford – Prendiville Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. This is a step above many that we have tried of late, with real depth to the fruit, supported by quality oak and winemaking. At this stage, it is very young, with the fruit tightly bound by the fine, silky tannins, but time is all that is required for this to come around. The fact that the palate transition is near seamless is a strong indicator of the underlying quality and skills of the winemaker. Give it an hour in the decanter, or ten years in the cellar. With air, the fruit really builds. 14.5% 95pts.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. This replaces the power of the Gladstones with elegance and prettiness. At first glance, it could be considered a touch simple as a result, but that would be an unfair assessment. It is just that it does not stand out right now. But ten years should see this flesh out significantly. With air, the mid-palate fruit power really builds and transforms this into something quite special. 13.8% – 95pts – $110.

Katnook Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2021. This is a very good cabernet. It is not the most dense or overtly powerful wine, but it makes up for this with lithe, elegant fruit and palate structure. Medium bodied, and very approachable now. In fact, this would be an excellent by-the-glass wine for current consumption. But over the next two days, this really opened and showed enough structure to reward medium cellaring. Living in Western Australia, I do not review that many wines from Coonawarra, but clearly, I should make a greater effort. 14.5% alc – 94pts – $47.

Sandalford – 1840 – Shiraz – 2022. Serious fruit here. Pepper and spice to the fore, but this sits atop a bed of fleshy, dense, high quality fruit. Plum and liquorice gradually gives way to those spice characters, with a lick of new oak adding depth to the finish. This is a fine wine that is great drinking now, but would benefit from 5 – 10 years. From the Swan Valley. 93pts – $50.

Cullen – Red Moon – Blend – 2024. Nice fruit, and very well made. This has balanced cleansing acidity in addition to pretty berry fruit. The acidity adds life and interest, but does detract from the overall package. Quite silky and fine, this is an excellent early drinking wine that has more depth and structure that many. A blend of malbec, grenache, mourvèdre, petit Verdot and merlot. 13.5% alc – 92pts – $35.
Sandalford – Rose – 2024. The palest of pink hues. The subtle berry fruit on both the nose and palate is attractive, but it is the textural components that define this wine and elevate it above the ordinary. The balance is excellent and the length and persistence of flavours commendable. And it is all the better for the drying finish. Refreshing summer drinking! 12.5% alc, 91pts.

Smallwater Estate – Shiraz – 2022. This is a bit of a sleeper. There is high-quality fruit here, but it is very shy and somewhat reserved right now. The very fine tannins are quite silky but do act like a straitjacket to the fruit. Tried again the next day and the fruit really opened up. Excellent fruit, slick winemaking results in an understated, but compelling wine. 15.0% – 93pts.

Grosset – Nereus – Shiraz/Nero d’Avola – 2023. I like this for its point of difference. There is a fine, savoury character that runs through this, making for a mouth-watering wine that is crying out for good food. Souring cherry fruit, exquisitely fine tannins, silky acidity are both appealing and also suggestive that short-term aging may bring out this wine’s best. May polarise, but I am a fan. 13.9% – 95pts – $55.

On The Tasting Bench – April 2025

Barry Weinman: 1st May 2025

With the plethora of local chenins and rieslings available to provide refreshing (and serious) drinking, New Zealand sauvignon blanc does not get much of a look in at home.
But the 2023 Te Muna Sauvignon Blanc from Craggy Range is a timely reminder of just how good these wines can be.

Elsewhere, I was very impressed with the Elantro pinot noir. Made by Sandro Mosel in the Mornington Peninsula, this is a winery to watch.

Reviewed.

Craggy Range – Te Muna – Sauvignon Blanc – 2023. This is a more serious expression of sauvignon blanc. There are subdued tropical fruit notes, but the textures and flavours speak equally to the skilled winemaking which has softened the exuberance of the grapes and added layers of complexity. Great with food (pan-fried whiting fillets), or for sipping and savouring on its own. 12.5% alc – 94pts.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – 2023. Fine, elegant and pure, with a core of ripe, peach-laden fruit popping in and out of focus on a very long palate. The texture is excellent and the length noteworthy. Great drinking and excellent value. 94pts.

Glaetzer-Dixon – Uberblanc – Riesling – 2023. Pretty, with musk and floral notes. Fine acidity is a highlight, adding verve and energy to the palate, without impeding the fruit in any way. Near seamless and with great balance, this is a fantastic drink now. A complete wine. 94pts.

Coward & Black – Lady Margo – Rose – 2024. This is a smart wine. It feels fairly dry, but has nice florals that waft up from the glass. There is decent length on a moreish palate. The back label talks of Turkish Delight and red berries, and this sums things up nicely. Warm day + Cold wine = happy consumer. 91pts.

Elantro Vineyard – Pinot Noir – 2023. This is quite beautiful. Superb fruit, fine structure, silky mouth feel. Depth and intensity. Swoon? You bet, as this is a quite remarkable wine. Concentration without any heaviness. Lithe, but with fruit weight sitting behind it. A brilliant drink. 14.0% alc – 95pts.

Serafino – Reserve – Grenache – 2023. Ripe, supple and delicious. There is structure here that makes this quite serious, but the fruit is the star. Cherry, plum and some candied notes all add. Excellent persistence of flavours elevates this further. A very good wine, but also really fun to drink! 14.2% alc – 94pts.

Sandalford – 1840 – Grenache – 2023. I like this for its point of difference. Ripe fruit has been massaged in the winery to add savoury, almost earthy undertones, without impacting on the flow of the succulent fruit. Really delicious and a great choice for current drinking with seriously good food. 14.5% – 93pts – $40.

Chardonnay Season Part 5

Barry Weinman: 28^th April 2025

The tasting panel behind Weinman on Wine tastes blind at every opportunity to ensure that preconceived ideas of quality and value do not influence the tasting results.

The reality is that most wine writers do not taste blind. Indeed, some publications insist that their writers do not taste blind.

So the reviewer sits down with a bottle of Penfolds Grange for example, and writes the review knowing what the wine is. By the same token, if reviewing a $10 bottle of wine, they know full well that it is a cheap wine.

So it is only natural that biases creep in.

The benefit of reviewing wines blinded is that my review is written and points lodged before I know the identity.

This is the final article in the 2025 Chardonnay Season series and reviews some of the other wines that have starred in recent masked line ups.

Reviewed

Juniper Estate – Cornerstone – Wilyabrup Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2023. This is a very impactful wine that has had royal treatment in the winery. Quality oak (228l barrels, 35% new) and plenty of lees characters combine with ripe peachy fruit which is pineapple tinged. Impressive, the lemony acid is the hero here, cutting through the richness and making for a superb wine. It is remarkable that a wine with only 12.5% alcohol can have this much flavour. 12.5% alc, 95pts – $65.

Fermoy – Estate Reserve – Chardonnay – 2024. This is very, very good. But in a different style than we typically see from Margeret River. Fine, elegant and restrained, but there is subtle intensity to the fruit that is quite outstanding. Seamless, the oak adds texture and grip, without impacting on the line and length of the palate. Lemon pith and hints of cinnamon build on the close. A modern style and a lovely wine. 95pts.

Grosset – Piccadilly – Chardonnay – 2023. An outstanding wine that just gets better and better the longer it sits in the mouth. The intensity, depth and power of the fruit is a revelation. I am sure that there is high-quality oak packed in there somewhere, but it does nothing to impede the flow of the fruit in any way. A superb wine which is great drinking now, and will age for at least 5 years with ease. 12.7% alc – 95pts.

Evans & Tate – Redbrook Estate – Chardonnay – 2022. Another excellent wine. This is a touch more obvious than some but lacks for nothing in comparison. Middle of the road and oozing goodness. A wine that is already providing drinking pleasure. 93pts.

Evans & Tate – Redbrook Reserve – Chardonnay – 2022. Very pale colour. This is quite extraordinary. How a wine that is subtle and supple can, at the same time, be this powerful and intense defies logic. There is a seemingly never-ending cascade of flavours and textures, yet there are no obvious fruit characters which dominate. Lemony acidity carries a finish that has excellent length and persistence. Should be good value, relatively speaking. 12.5% alc – 96pts.

Chardonnay Season Part 4 – A new discover

Barry Weinman: 26^th April 2025

It is very easy to be complacent when it comes to chardonnay when you live in Perth, given the quality of WA wines. So it is great to get a wake up call from time to time, to remind me that there is more to fine chardonnay than just Margaret River (or the Great Southern).

And so it was with the 2022 Fighting Gully Road Smith Vineyard Chardonnay. Here is a wine that was uniformly awarded gold medal points from all judges on the panel, throwing a cat amongst the pigeons in a line up of some top WA chardonnays as part of our regular blind panel tasting.

Reviewed

Fighting Gully Road – Smith Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2022. Wow. This is quite amazing. Stunning fruit, superb winemaking, magnificent presence and impact. Yet there is a degree of restraint and subtleness that reeks of quality. The persistence and length of flavours is extraordinary. Still very youthful and will evolve over the next 5 years. This is a very fine wine indeed and represents good value for a wine of this quality.
The fruit comes from the Smith Vineyard, which was planted in 1978, making it the oldest chardonnay vineyard in Beechworth. The wine was matured for 12 months in fine-grained Troncais MT oak (1/3 new). 13.5% alc – 96pts – $85.

Cullen – Kevin John – Chardonnay – 2024. This is very good, but quite different from the 2023. For Cullen, 2024 was the hottest, driest and earliest vintage on record. The result is a wine that is richer and more impactful. The generosity makes it excellent current drinking, as does the gently viscous palate. And there is commendable persistence and length of flavours. If you get the opportunity to try this next to the 2023, I would love to hear what you think. 13.5% alc – 95+pts – $180.

Brookland Valley – Estate – Chardonnay – 2022. BOOM! This wine explodes on the palate. Immensely concentrated and powerful, with great depth of flavours that build and evolve for some time. This wine is all about power rather than subtlety, and works well. The acidity is really well judged, leaving the palate fresh. If you like impactful wine, then this is worth seeking out. 94pts.

Chardonnay Season Part 3 – Vasse Felix

Barry Weinman: 19^th April 2025

It has been a privilege to watch the evolution of Vasse Felix’s chardonnays, and in 2023, they have released a stunning trio of wines.

Besides their sheer quality, the most interesting aspect of this release is the stylistic difference between the DHJ1 and the other two.

The similarities between the Premier (gold cap) and Heytesbury are clearly evident, with the latter possessing greater depth and presence, but sharing a similar profile. Whereas the DHJ1 treads a different path, one that I am happy to follow!

I reviewed the 2023 Heytesbury here , so will focus on the other two for this review.

Reviewed

Vasse Felix – DHJ1 – Singe Plot – Chardonnay – 2023. Oh my, this is really very good. On first glance, it presents as very fine and elegant, reflective of its cooler climate origin, but it metamorphoses as it sits in the mouth, building layer upon layer of fruit, complemented by superb winemaking that, somehow, imparts an extra dimension of goodness (think texture, mouthfeel and depth), without impeding the flow of the fruit for a moment. The length and persistence of flavours are outstanding. Great wine. 12.5% – 96pts – $80.00.

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – 2023. Another fine wine, but here, everything has been pared back. It lacks for nothing, but is a more subtle and supple expression of chardonnay. Very fine, this just gets better and better in the glass. Drinks well despite its youth, with excellent phenolics adding greatly to the mouthfeel. 13.0% alc – 94pts – $50.

Chardonnay Season – Part 2

Barry Weinman: 2 April 2025

Lamonts recently held a tasting of premium Western Australian chardonnays, to get a picture of the quality of the lauded 2023 vintage.

Before the event, the panel sat down to taste the wines, blinded to the composition or order of the wines served. This proved a fantastic opportunity to get a handle on the vintage, and to see which producers excelled.

The clear takeaway from the tasting was the outrageous value that can be found in Western Australian chardonnays.

A number of wines in the tasting sell for well under $100 and even the most expensive wines are less than $200.

You have to look to Grand Cru or Premier Cru Burgundy at 3 – 10 times the price of these wines to start to approach the quality on show here (if you are lucky).

Reviewed

Cullen – Kevin John – Chardonnay – 2023. My tasting notes for this read like a picklist of descriptors for the perfect chardonnay. Peach, nectarine, hints of citrus. Subtlety, suppleness, power, density, seamless, gentle viscosity. The length and persistence of flavours were one of the highlights of the tasting. So surely this must be the best wine? Probably, though it is a very tight run race with the Vasse Felix and Pierro (and Cherubino and Flametree). 97pts.

Pierro – Chardonnay – 2023. It is hard to imagine a better wine, such is the quality here. This has everything that you could ask for in a chardonnay, and then some. Yet somehow, it manages to present as shy and restrained at the same time. A chameleon wine that has the flexibility to be enjoyed on its own, or with a variety of different foods. Winemaking notes add impact in a very positive way. 97pts.

Vasse Felix – Heytesbury – Chardonnay – 2023. This is very impactful, in a very good way. Intense citrus-tinged fruit is what this wine is all about. With the winemaker’s inputs serving to highlight rather than obscure its impact. First impressions are of a somewhat shy wine, but this is underplaying just how good this is. Rather than shy, it is just that here, subtlety is the key. Every component of the wine is outstanding, but it is the way it comes together that makes this special. The palate is oh-so-long on the close. Beautiful. 97pts

Flametree – SRS – Chardonnay – 2023. Classic curry leaf minerality coming through that reminds me of a fine premier cru Burgundy. Excellent fruit, quality oak which is texture enhancing (rather than overtly flavour adding) and supple lees makes for a brilliant wine. But my view is that needs 5 years to really start to open. 96+pts.

Cherubino – Pemberton – Chardonnay – 2023. This is fantastic, if somewhat reserved and closed at present. However the quality of the fruit is palpable, and the oak is very fine indeed. The fruit is in the nectarine spectrum and is the star of the show. The length and textures on the finish round out the package. In 5 – 10 years, this will be a remarkable drink. 96+pts

Stella Bella – Luminosa – Chardonnay – 2023. Fine, refined and restrained, but not lean in any way. The ripe fruit is subtle and supple, yet the palate is endowed with significant depth and power. This wine has it all. Now? Sure, but it will be brilliant any time over the next 5 – 8 years. Gold medal points from the entire panel. 96pts.

Fermoy Estate – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. I like this a lot, but it was quite different to most in the tasting. Here, the pristine stonefruit (nectarine) fruit is the highlight. This is mouth-coating, supple and with gentle viscosity. The length of flavours is outstanding. The winemaking (oak and lees work) is virtually invisible, its presence felt in the sheer depth and breadth of the wine across the palate. The best wine I can recall trying from this producer. 96pts.

Deep Woods – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. This wine is a masterclass in high-quality chardonnay, with fine, elegant fruit supported by supple, sympathetic winemaking and superb use of oak. Balanced and refined, the refreshing acidity is a highlight. The acidity does, however, hold the fruit back somewhat at this early stage. A wonderful wine in the making. 96pts.

Moss Wood – Chardonnay – 2023. This wine polarised the panel, but I am a fan! Here is what I said. Sublime wine, but here the oak has been given a bit more toast and, at this early stage, adds an overt note to the wine. This is in no way obtrusive but is a key feature. As it warms, this comes together and the fruit really shines, straddling the boundary between citrus and stonefruit. Super wine, but give it time. 95+pts.

Nocturne – Single Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2023. This wine has an extra dimension of complexity and power, with the winemaking inputs really impacting on the nose. This confers a layer of struck-match minerality over the ripe fruit. The palate is textural and powerful, with the savoury minerality again featuring. A much more worked style that suits me, but may not be for everyone. 95+pts.

Picardy – Chardonnay – 2023. Brilliant wine. Polished, supple and beautifully textured, the fine, peach-like fruit is highlighted by balancing acidity and a gentle viscosity on the palate. What struck me about this wine was that it is a fantastic drink right now. With time in the glass, the acid and winemaking inputs certainly start to express as the wine warmed. A bargain! 95+pts.

Singlefile – Family Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. This sits right in the middle stylistically, with ripe, bright fruit complemented by supple lees and barrel work. The impact of the latter is primarily texture-building rather than overtly imparting flavour. The acidity tends toward tropical/pineapple. Would benefit from a few years to flesh out, but is a lovely drink all the same, and excellent value in this company. 95pts

Fraser Gallop – Parterre – Chardonnay – 2023. This is much leaner and tauter, with the pineapple fruit and acidity the key driver, supported by distinct minerality. Needs time to come into its drinking window and should garner higher points at that time. 94pts.

Rhone Varietals (and Friends)

26 March 2025: Barry Weinman

There has been a plethora of wines that I have reviewed over the summer, so expect a number of reviews over the next few weeks.

To get things started, here is a cross section of Rhone varietals that particularly impressed for either value or outright quality (or both).

The majority are grenache and shiraz, but there are also two worthwhile Rhone whites that are available at Dan’s. The latter come with a caveat; I opened four bottles and two had cork taint (both reds).

Oh, and it is not wine, but the Echuca Chocolate Company chocolate block that accompanied the St Anne’s Shiraz was top notch indeed!

The Wines

Thistledown – Charming Man – Grenache – 2023. This is quite splendid. The fruit is vibrant and fresh, with lovely red fruit characters bouncing around the palate. There is serious structure from the winemaking inputs, but these only serve to highlight the fruit, rather than closing down the palate. The pretty, pretty fruit is intense and subtle all at once. A superstar which has received huge reviews elsewhere. Single vineyard in Clarendon in the McLaren Vale. 96+pts – $100.

Sandalford – Prindiville Reserve – Shiraz – 2018. Cooler fruit characters that, whilst fine, are intense and packed with subtle power. The fruit is more cherry than plum, reflecting the cooler region. Oak is an aid to mouthfeel and texture, rather than an overt character This is an impressive wine that is remarkably good drinking already. The thought of sitting down to a steak or rich ragout accompanied by a glass of this wine is very appealing indeed.14.5% alc – 95pts.

Yangarra – Ovitelli – Grenache – 2022. This is very impressive, but is an unusual style in that the fruit has been pared back, and is accompanied by higher acidity which cuts across the palate. But there is depth and power sitting underneath, with liquorice, spice and savoury fruit characters building across the length of the palate. Excellent length, and the flavours linger for an age. The souring acidity is a feature on the finish and confers cellarability, whilst also ensuring that this will be a great accompaniment to roast lamb or a rich tomato based vegetable ragout. 95pts – 14.5% – $90.

Penfolds – Bin 28 – Shiraz – 2022. Lovely fruit. Saturated plum and menthol notes, taut, texturing acidity and structured oak all meld together into a wine that is already very approachable. But surely the best is to come, given the level of complexity that the palate exhibits, with notes of coffee, chocolate and eastern spices. Powerful and age-worthy. 14.5% alc – 95pts.

Sandalford – Estate Reserve – Shiraz -2019. Intense and powerful, with chocolate/berry/coffee characters balanced by souring cherry acidity. This is impactful and mouthcoating, with a panoply of flavours cascading across the palate. The acidity is the unsung hero, powering the finish and keeping the palate fresh and alive. Now or later? There is no wrong answer to that question. 15.0% alc – 94-95pts.

Maison Les Alexandrins – Crozes-Hermitage – Marsanne/Rousanne – 2022. Slightly darker hue than the CDR – straw coloured. Lovely nose, with gentle apricot and stone fruit notes. The mouthfeel has attractive viscosity and texture, and the stonefruit notes run the length of the palate. This is very good. Ready to drink and would accompany a range of foods, given the way the gentle grip holds the finish together. A complete wine that is worth seeking out. 93pts – 13% alc – $50.

Welland – Valley & Valley – Shiraz – 2023 Sweet, ripe fruit which is both attractive and addictive to smell. The palate has vibrancy and succulent fruit, with gentle vanillin oak characters adding interest and depth. Remarkably, the finish is near seamless, with the fleshy fruit slowly transitioning to show the acid and tannin backbone that keeps the whole package together. The perfect BBQ wine? This may be it. If you need an approachable, easy drinking red with plenty of fruit, then this is an excellent choice. 14.5% alc – 93pts – $30.00

Welland – Valley & Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. This appears more serious on the nose than the shiraz, with the structural components (tannins and acidity) providing a counterfoil to the well-judged fruit. The finish is commendable for the way the fruit and structure meld into an excellent drink. Try with a decent steak if that is your wish. Now – 5 years. 14.5% – 93pts – $30.00

St Anne’s – Shiraz – 2022. Cooler, focused fruit that is supple, textured, long and persistent. The fruit here is more medium bodied, but is very dark toned, with plum notes and an almost chocolate-like velvety texture and decent intensity. A smart wine that would be great by the glass now, but will also build depth and complexity in the bottle. Nice structure and palate. A versatile wine. From Bendigo. 14.5% alc, 93pts – $25.

Maison Les Alexandrins – Cotes-Du-Rhone – Blanc – 2023. Fresh, vibrant and downright fun. Passionfruit and tropical notes flood the palate, accompanied by refreshing acidity and hints of spice. This would be perfect to share on a warm afternoon, when more serious wines would be wasted. 13.5% – 91pts – $25

Echuca Chocolate Company – Dark Chocolate Bar. This is the sister company to St Anne’s Winery and is, judging by the bar of dark chocolate that we tried, even more exciting than the St Anne’s wine. The expert panel (my wife and children) thought this was amongst the best Australian chocolate that they have ever had. 95pts.

Chardonnay Season – Part One

23 March 2025: Barry Weinman

Given the warmer weather, the panel seemed drawn to Chardonnay, with several superb tastings, including a 2023 tasting held at Lamont’s in Cottesloe.

It seems, in Western Australia at least, there has been a never ending run of good to great vintages for chardonnay.

Whilst the winemakers may complain about how difficult cooler vintages like 2019 and 2021 were in the vineyard, the results suggest that they succeeded in making very worthwhile wines, albeit in a cooler, more restrained style.

Fast forward to 2022 and 2023 in particular, and it is all smiles, with excellent growing conditions delivering wines of great quality and consistency.

As the weather cools, autumn is prime chardonnay drinking time for me. I serve it straight from the cellar at 18 degrees, and pop the bottle in and out of the fridge to keep it cool but not cold.

Reviewed

Elantro Vineyard – Balnarring – Chardonnay – 2023. Wow, this wine lives up to the hype and, if anything, is even better than I was expecting from this new project from Sando Mosele. Superb fruit which is refined and elegant, and just a little subdued straight out of the bottle. But the sheer quality of the fruit is what stands this apart, along with the deft use of oak and lees influences, which add depth and texture without imparting overt flavours. The viscosity on the palate is a joy to behold, mesmerising the senses as the fruit gradually evolves for what seems like minutes. On the very close, the fruit picks up a slight pineapple note, adding to the appeal. Sealed with a Diam cork. 13.5% – 96pts.

Sandalford – Prendiville Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. This is very good indeed. The fruit is ripe, yet restrained and the winemaking has served to emphasise the quality and the textural aspects, without adding specific characters. Peach? Yep, but also a lot more. A delight to drink, the fruit drifts along on a raft of acid and fine oak, with just the right amount of generosity. 13.5% alc, 95+pts.

Sandalford -Prindiville Reserve – Chardonnay – 2024. With Ross Pamment now firmly in control of winemaking at Sandalford, we are starting to get an idea of the styles he is trying to produce. Fine, high-quality fruit has been paired carefully with tight-knit French oak to make for a compelling wine. The fruit is quite restrained, but it is the mouthfeel and texture where the intrinsic quality really expresses itself. Seamless, elegant and refined, a wine to sip and savour. Will be at its best with a few years in the cellar. 13.5% alc – 94-95pts.

Smallwater Estate – Chardonnay – 2022. Ripe, yet restrained fruit has been given a decent amount of work in the winery adding a degree of minerality from the lees work and gentle toast from the oak. Moreish, I like the mouthfeel. 13.7% alc, 91pts.

Howard Park Global Sparkling Tasting

14th November 2024

This was possibly the most thought-provoking tasting that I have ever had the privilege to attend. It was not just the diversity of styles and grape varieties that made me stop and think. It was also the way the wines were sorted into brackets to explore different factors that can influence quality and style in sparkling wines.

The winemaking team at Howard Park scoured the globe in search of extraordinary sparkling wine from both well-recognised and obscure regions. The fact that even Tyson Steltzer had not heard of some of the wines, let alone tried them, is testament to the lengths they went to.

For senior winemaker Nic Bowen and team, the aim of the tasting was to explore all facets of high quality sparkling wine, to help inform current winemaking and viticulture, as well as give a glimpse into the future as to what could be achieved by combining different varieties and climates in ways that differ from the current norms.

The wines were chosen based on international show records and, in the case of wines like the Egly, reputation.

Many of the wines tasted have never been available in Australia, and some are so exceedingly rare as to require great patience and persistence to be able to secure them.
This then led to the logistical challenges associated with getting the wines to Australia, from far-flung places.

Tasting the wines blind served to further challenge my preconceptions about where great sparkling wine should come from, and how it should taste.

Yes, there were some brilliant Champagnes, but there were also some truly remarkable examples from across the globe, including the stunning 2016 51 Degrees North from Gusbourne, which redefined for me what can be achieved with English sparkling wine, but also highlights how expensive it is to produce, given that it sells for around the same price as Krug in the UK, but is much harder to find.

Italy, Australia and Spain accounted for a number of the other wines in the tasting with notable additions from Romania (very good), Austria, Canada, USA and South Africa (not my personal favourite).

Just as extraordinary as the tasting was the generosity of the Burch family in hosting this tasting and enabling a who’s who of the Australian wine industry to attend. Their efforts, and those of the entire Howard Park team resulted in a spectacular event the likes of which has never before been hosted in Australia.

The fact that there was no self-promotion was remarkable in itself. The only Howard Park wine in the tasting was the Jeté Rosé , which recently picked up a trophy for best sparkling wine at the Wine Show of Western Australia.

It should be said that, despite being a fraction of the price of most of the wines presented, the Jeté showed brilliantly in the blind lineup.

Key takeaways for me included that

• Great sparkling wine can be made in many parts of the globe
• There are a myriad of styles that are equally meritorious
• Australia can make extraordinarily good sparkling wine
• High quality Australian sparkling wine is a bargain

Oh, and that Howard Park is well on the way to cementing its reputation as a premium sparkling wine producer.

To the tasting…

Altitude v Latitude

The first bracket of six wines was themed Altitude vs Latitude and looked to explore the differences between growing regions that achieve their cool climate by being closer to the poles (latitude) versus those that are cool by virtue of their elevation above sea level.

The wines were served as pairs, matched for country and as closely as possible, for grape, with the second wine in each pair being the one from high altitude
It is a broad generalisation, but I found the wines grown at altitude to be a little more generous and rounded, whereas those grown closer to the poles were tighter and more restrained.

But generalisations are difficult give that the first three wines were zero dosage, which tends to lend a degree of starkness to styles.

Alta Alella – Lait Grand Reserva – Brut Nature – 2019. A Cava from just outside Barcelona in Spain, made from a blend of xarel-lo, chardonnay and pinot noir. Really interesting nose showing nougat and hints of apple blossom. This is dry, very dry, but not austere. Subtle nougat, toast and brioche. Great length of flavours on a near seamless palate, with textures building in the mouth. 93pts.

Pago De Tharsys – X Grand Reserva – Brut Nature – 2019. From Requena, 70km from Valencia, the vineyards are at an altitude of 800m. More peach-like fruit here. Apricot even. Palate bursts with juicy goodness. Textured, yes, but this is more generous in its fruit structure, and easier to drink as a result. 92 pts.

Berlucchi – ’61 Nature – Blanc de Blanc – 2017. 100% chardonnay from Franciacorta in the north of Italy. More familiar in its structure and profile. Again, this is not an overt wine, as everything has been pared back, with a focus on elegance. Dry, but not overly so, despite being zero dosage. Good complexity, and excellent acidity. 93pts.

Terrazze Dell’Etna – Blanc – Brut 50 Months. 100% chardonnay from Etna in Sicily, the vineyards range from 800m to 950m in elevation. I like this a lot, as it is packed full of flavours, but remains taut and refined. Excellent length and persistence. Fruit builds, complemented by a refined structure and elegant finish. So easy to drink. Mid-palate weight. Lovely fruit. Gentle astringency on the finish. Toast builds. 94 pts.

Arras – Grand Vintage – 2015. From regions across Tasmania. 7 years on lees, dosage of 2.6g/l, chardonnay (67%) dominant blend. A different expression here, with the winemaking notes turned up a notch (brioche, lees) and bucket-loads of minerality, yet there are very attractive floral fruit notes running across the nose and palate. And it is on the palate where this shines, the layers of fruit and toast cascading across the tongue, with great length and persistence of flavours. The structure/mouthfeel are a highlight. 95-96 pts.

Printhie – Swift – Vintage 2015. From Orange in NSW, the vineyards sitting at 980 metres elevation. 7 years on lees, 5.25g/l, chardonnay (67%) pinot noir blend. Initially, this seemed more straightforward, but on tasting the wine, there was a wow moment as the fruit and lees characters exploded across the palate. Amazing. This feels as if it has had extended lees aging, given the lovely toasty notes. A superb wine with excellent complexity. 95+ pts.

Bracket 2: Multi vintage, pinot/chardonnay

This bracket started with a wine that was100% chardonnay and finished with one that was 100% pinot noir.

Brundlmayer – Blanc de Blancs – Extra Brut Reserve – NV. From Langenlois, on the Danube north west of Vienna. Oak aged, 3 years on lees, 100% chardonnay. The balance of freshness and autolytic complexity is very attractive. The acidity is a highlight. Only small amount of reserve wines (if any), given the freshness. 93 pts

Le Lude – Brut Reserve – NV – From the Franschoek Valley in Paarl, 3 years on lees, 8.5g/l dosage, chardonnay (69%) dominant blend. Feels more mainstream and familiar, which is no bad thing. Higher dosage, gentle autolytic characters. But this bottle lacked the depth and complexity of the best. 91 pts

No1 Family Estate – Reine Cuvee Reserve – NV. Produced by Daniel Le Brun in Marlborough. 4 years on lees, 2.8g/l dosage, chardonnay 50%, pinot noir 43% pinot meunier 7%. There is a bit more wow here, as this is impactful right from the get-go. There is a degree of richness to the fruit, but this is balanced by fine, texturing acidity. The dosage is well matched. Gentle complexity suggests a reasonable amount of reserve wine, or extended lees aging. 94 pts.

Howard Park – Jeté Rosé – NV. Base wine from 2021 vintage, 31 months on lees, extra brut, 87% pinot noir. Pretty salmon-tinged hue. This is very drying. Taut, yet not austere or hard. Very much in the aperitif style. Red fruits build as the wine warms. The low dosage is apparent. Excellent length. Will really benefit from a year or two in the cellar.

Gran Moraine – Yamhill-Carlton – Brut Rose – NV. From the Willamette Valley in Oregon USA. 24 months on lees, pinot noir 53%, partial barrel ferment. Colour stained with the barest hint of pink/copper. This is an excellent wine. There is complexity and depth to burn, matched by vibrant acidity and texturing minerality. Excellent length. The balance here is a highlight, possessing richness and elegance in equal measures. Length! Continues to evolve on the palate for an age. 95pts.

Andre Clouet – Rose No. 5 – NV. 100% Pinot noir grown in Bouzy and Ambonnay in Champagne, 3 years on lees, 5.6g/l dosage, 100% pinot noir. Coppery/salmon colour. Another lovely wine, where the richness and texture are a highlight. Depth, power, balance, intensity, length. Then the acidity cuts through, conferring great freshness and life. This is very good indeed. 95+pts.6

Bracket Three: Vintage

Township 7 – Seven Stars Polaris – 2020. 100% chardonnay from vineyards in Canada’s Okanagan and Fraser valleys. Minimum 18 months on lees, 9g/l dosage. Wow. Great presence on the palate. This is taut, drying and very fine. The dosage is totally balanced by the acidity. Very long, the aforementioned acidity makes this somewhat linear now, but this will flesh out with time. A very impressive wine. Hints of Granny Smith apple linger. 95pts.

Hattingley Valley – Blanc de Blancs – 2014. 100% chardonnay form a variety of vineyards across England. 5 years on lees, 6g/l dosage. More savoury than the Township 7, with complexity coming from the autolytic characters as well as the extra bottle age (disgorged in 2020). The length and persistence of flavours are noteworthy. Good intensity and power. Creamy texture. A good wine with hints of bruised apple on the finish. 94pts.

Carastelec – Carassia 733 – Vintage Brut – 2018. Chardonnay dominant blend, 3 years on lees, 11g/l dosage. From Romania, which has a fascinating wine history dating back to 1770. Very pretty floral fruit characters. A different style, with a unique flavour profile that includes hints of musk and sherbet. Lacks the ultimate depth and length of the best here, but a delicious wine that will make a great aperitif, given its poise and restraint. 94pts.

La Montina – Millesimato – Franciacorta Brut – 2018. Chardonnay dominant blend, 4 yrs on lees, 6g/l dosage, partial oak aging. From Lombardy in Italy. This wine did not look great in my glass.

Grand Crus D’Exception De Champagne C17 – 2017. A consortium of 15 growers who contribute fruit from all 17 Grand Cru regions in Champagne. 50 months on lees, 2 g/l dosage, 65% pinot noir. This appears to have extended on-cork aging, but it is, perhaps, the high-impact winemaking style that defines this wine. Whilst the colour is still straw, the nose and palate have lots of toasty brioche notes. Apple, in fact, apple juice, with a bruised tinge. Drying textured, not overly generous, but a very impressive wine. Power. Complexity. High-impact style, with preserved fruit. Polarising.

Freycinet – Radenti Grand Vintage – 2016. From Bicheno on Tasmania’s east coast. 5 – 6 years on lees, 8 g/l dosage, 60% chardonnay. There is a wow factor here, even though the aromas and flavours are not familiar to me. Power, intensity, depth, texture, this has it all. The mouth-coating texture and near seamless palate transition are a revelation. Lingers for some time, with the fruit ebbing and flowing across the palate. Superb wine. 96pts. At $75, this is a steal direct from the winery.

Prestige.

Gusbourne – 51 Degrees North – 2016. Produced from vineyards in Kent and West Sussex in England. 5 yrs on lees, 10 g/l dosage, 67% chardonnay. What a wine. Fine, intense and powerful, yet elegant and very refined. Seamless. Tremendous length and persistence. Magical. The texture and mouthfeel are a standout. A stunning wine with great energy, drive and superbly judged residual. 98pts. Est $500.

Egly-Ouriet – Grand Cru Millésime – 2014. Pinot dominant blend from the Montage de Reims in Champagne. 8 years on lees, 1 g/l dosage, 70% pinot noir. Here, the autolytic characters have been turned up to 11. Impressive acidity, power, depth, but lacks the elegance and refinement of the Gusbourne. Impressive, but not a style I want to drink. As it warms up, gets even better, but it is just too much for me. 95pts. $1050. (This is the beauty of blind tastings. If I had known it was Egly, then I am sure I would have found the style more to my liking 😊.)

Raumland – Grand Cuvee Triumvirat Brut – 2015. Fruit comes from Gernany’s Rheinhessen and Pfalz, over 8 yrs on lees, 7g/l dosage. 50% chardonnay, 35% pinot noir, 15% pinot meunier. This straddles the boundary between the last two. There is overt power, but everything is a little more restrained by comparison. Good drinking, hopefully with some grilled chicken. 93 pts.

Ferrari – Reserva Del Fondatore – 2012. 100% chardonnay, an incredible 10 yrs on lees, extra brut. This is different, in a very good way. Toasted cashew nuts, chestnut and even a hint of sesame. Depth and power to burn, this is a hugely impactful wine. A powerful wine with great power that would handle any food thrown at it and will be all the better for it. Superb. 96pts.

Deviation Road – Beltana Late Disgorged – 2011. Produced by Kate Laurie in the Adelaide Hills, this wine had an incredible 12 years on lees prior to disgorgement. 100% chardonnay, 7 g/l dosage. Wonderful wine that is redolent of crunchy Granny Smith apples that run the length of the palate and provides the acid backbone that keeps this alive and fresh. Intense, subtle power. Great length of flavours. No food is required. A wonderful wine on the world stage. 96 pts. A bargain at $145 from the cellar door.

Billecart Salmon – Cuvee Louis – Blanc de Blanc – 2009. 12 years on lees, 3/75g/l dosage, 100% chardonnay. Spectacular! The acidity keeps this so, so fresh. Vibrant. But it needs a few years to settle down and relax into its frame. 97 pts? You bet.