Howard Park Global Sparkling Tasting

14th November 2024

This was possibly the most thought-provoking tasting that I have ever had the privilege to attend. It was not just the diversity of styles and grape varieties that made me stop and think. It was also the way the wines were sorted into brackets to explore different factors that can influence quality and style in sparkling wines.

The winemaking team at Howard Park scoured the globe in search of extraordinary sparkling wine from both well-recognised and obscure regions. The fact that even Tyson Steltzer had not heard of some of the wines, let alone tried them, is testament to the lengths they went to.

For senior winemaker Nic Bowen and team, the aim of the tasting was to explore all facets of high quality sparkling wine, to help inform current winemaking and viticulture, as well as give a glimpse into the future as to what could be achieved by combining different varieties and climates in ways that differ from the current norms.

The wines were chosen based on international show records and, in the case of wines like the Egly, reputation.

Many of the wines tasted have never been available in Australia, and some are so exceedingly rare as to require great patience and persistence to be able to secure them.
This then led to the logistical challenges associated with getting the wines to Australia, from far-flung places.

Tasting the wines blind served to further challenge my preconceptions about where great sparkling wine should come from, and how it should taste.

Yes, there were some brilliant Champagnes, but there were also some truly remarkable examples from across the globe, including the stunning 2016 51 Degrees North from Gusbourne, which redefined for me what can be achieved with English sparkling wine, but also highlights how expensive it is to produce, given that it sells for around the same price as Krug in the UK, but is much harder to find.

Italy, Australia and Spain accounted for a number of the other wines in the tasting with notable additions from Romania (very good), Austria, Canada, USA and South Africa (not my personal favourite).

Just as extraordinary as the tasting was the generosity of the Burch family in hosting this tasting and enabling a who’s who of the Australian wine industry to attend. Their efforts, and those of the entire Howard Park team resulted in a spectacular event the likes of which has never before been hosted in Australia.

The fact that there was no self-promotion was remarkable in itself. The only Howard Park wine in the tasting was the Jeté Rosé , which recently picked up a trophy for best sparkling wine at the Wine Show of Western Australia.

It should be said that, despite being a fraction of the price of most of the wines presented, the Jeté showed brilliantly in the blind lineup.

Key takeaways for me included that

• Great sparkling wine can be made in many parts of the globe
• There are a myriad of styles that are equally meritorious
• Australia can make extraordinarily good sparkling wine
• High quality Australian sparkling wine is a bargain

Oh, and that Howard Park is well on the way to cementing its reputation as a premium sparkling wine producer.

To the tasting…

Altitude v Latitude

The first bracket of six wines was themed Altitude vs Latitude and looked to explore the differences between growing regions that achieve their cool climate by being closer to the poles (latitude) versus those that are cool by virtue of their elevation above sea level.

The wines were served as pairs, matched for country and as closely as possible, for grape, with the second wine in each pair being the one from high altitude
It is a broad generalisation, but I found the wines grown at altitude to be a little more generous and rounded, whereas those grown closer to the poles were tighter and more restrained.

But generalisations are difficult give that the first three wines were zero dosage, which tends to lend a degree of starkness to styles.

Alta Alella – Lait Grand Reserva – Brut Nature – 2019. A Cava from just outside Barcelona in Spain, made from a blend of xarel-lo, chardonnay and pinot noir. Really interesting nose showing nougat and hints of apple blossom. This is dry, very dry, but not austere. Subtle nougat, toast and brioche. Great length of flavours on a near seamless palate, with textures building in the mouth. 93pts.

Pago De Tharsys – X Grand Reserva – Brut Nature – 2019. From Requena, 70km from Valencia, the vineyards are at an altitude of 800m. More peach-like fruit here. Apricot even. Palate bursts with juicy goodness. Textured, yes, but this is more generous in its fruit structure, and easier to drink as a result. 92 pts.

Berlucchi – ’61 Nature – Blanc de Blanc – 2017. 100% chardonnay from Franciacorta in the north of Italy. More familiar in its structure and profile. Again, this is not an overt wine, as everything has been pared back, with a focus on elegance. Dry, but not overly so, despite being zero dosage. Good complexity, and excellent acidity. 93pts.

Terrazze Dell’Etna – Blanc – Brut 50 Months. 100% chardonnay from Etna in Sicily, the vineyards range from 800m to 950m in elevation. I like this a lot, as it is packed full of flavours, but remains taut and refined. Excellent length and persistence. Fruit builds, complemented by a refined structure and elegant finish. So easy to drink. Mid-palate weight. Lovely fruit. Gentle astringency on the finish. Toast builds. 94 pts.

Arras – Grand Vintage – 2015. From regions across Tasmania. 7 years on lees, dosage of 2.6g/l, chardonnay (67%) dominant blend. A different expression here, with the winemaking notes turned up a notch (brioche, lees) and bucket-loads of minerality, yet there are very attractive floral fruit notes running across the nose and palate. And it is on the palate where this shines, the layers of fruit and toast cascading across the tongue, with great length and persistence of flavours. The structure/mouthfeel are a highlight. 95-96 pts.

Printhie – Swift – Vintage 2015. From Orange in NSW, the vineyards sitting at 980 metres elevation. 7 years on lees, 5.25g/l, chardonnay (67%) pinot noir blend. Initially, this seemed more straightforward, but on tasting the wine, there was a wow moment as the fruit and lees characters exploded across the palate. Amazing. This feels as if it has had extended lees aging, given the lovely toasty notes. A superb wine with excellent complexity. 95+ pts.

Bracket 2: Multi vintage, pinot/chardonnay

This bracket started with a wine that was100% chardonnay and finished with one that was 100% pinot noir.

Brundlmayer – Blanc de Blancs – Extra Brut Reserve – NV. From Langenlois, on the Danube north west of Vienna. Oak aged, 3 years on lees, 100% chardonnay. The balance of freshness and autolytic complexity is very attractive. The acidity is a highlight. Only small amount of reserve wines (if any), given the freshness. 93 pts

Le Lude – Brut Reserve – NV – From the Franschoek Valley in Paarl, 3 years on lees, 8.5g/l dosage, chardonnay (69%) dominant blend. Feels more mainstream and familiar, which is no bad thing. Higher dosage, gentle autolytic characters. But this bottle lacked the depth and complexity of the best. 91 pts

No1 Family Estate – Reine Cuvee Reserve – NV. Produced by Daniel Le Brun in Marlborough. 4 years on lees, 2.8g/l dosage, chardonnay 50%, pinot noir 43% pinot meunier 7%. There is a bit more wow here, as this is impactful right from the get-go. There is a degree of richness to the fruit, but this is balanced by fine, texturing acidity. The dosage is well matched. Gentle complexity suggests a reasonable amount of reserve wine, or extended lees aging. 94 pts.

Howard Park – Jeté Rosé – NV. Base wine from 2021 vintage, 31 months on lees, extra brut, 87% pinot noir. Pretty salmon-tinged hue. This is very drying. Taut, yet not austere or hard. Very much in the aperitif style. Red fruits build as the wine warms. The low dosage is apparent. Excellent length. Will really benefit from a year or two in the cellar.

Gran Moraine – Yamhill-Carlton – Brut Rose – NV. From the Willamette Valley in Oregon USA. 24 months on lees, pinot noir 53%, partial barrel ferment. Colour stained with the barest hint of pink/copper. This is an excellent wine. There is complexity and depth to burn, matched by vibrant acidity and texturing minerality. Excellent length. The balance here is a highlight, possessing richness and elegance in equal measures. Length! Continues to evolve on the palate for an age. 95pts.

Andre Clouet – Rose No. 5 – NV. 100% Pinot noir grown in Bouzy and Ambonnay in Champagne, 3 years on lees, 5.6g/l dosage, 100% pinot noir. Coppery/salmon colour. Another lovely wine, where the richness and texture are a highlight. Depth, power, balance, intensity, length. Then the acidity cuts through, conferring great freshness and life. This is very good indeed. 95+pts.6

Bracket Three: Vintage

Township 7 – Seven Stars Polaris – 2020. 100% chardonnay from vineyards in Canada’s Okanagan and Fraser valleys. Minimum 18 months on lees, 9g/l dosage. Wow. Great presence on the palate. This is taut, drying and very fine. The dosage is totally balanced by the acidity. Very long, the aforementioned acidity makes this somewhat linear now, but this will flesh out with time. A very impressive wine. Hints of Granny Smith apple linger. 95pts.

Hattingley Valley – Blanc de Blancs – 2014. 100% chardonnay form a variety of vineyards across England. 5 years on lees, 6g/l dosage. More savoury than the Township 7, with complexity coming from the autolytic characters as well as the extra bottle age (disgorged in 2020). The length and persistence of flavours are noteworthy. Good intensity and power. Creamy texture. A good wine with hints of bruised apple on the finish. 94pts.

Carastelec – Carassia 733 – Vintage Brut – 2018. Chardonnay dominant blend, 3 years on lees, 11g/l dosage. From Romania, which has a fascinating wine history dating back to 1770. Very pretty floral fruit characters. A different style, with a unique flavour profile that includes hints of musk and sherbet. Lacks the ultimate depth and length of the best here, but a delicious wine that will make a great aperitif, given its poise and restraint. 94pts.

La Montina – Millesimato – Franciacorta Brut – 2018. Chardonnay dominant blend, 4 yrs on lees, 6g/l dosage, partial oak aging. From Lombardy in Italy. This wine did not look great in my glass.

Grand Crus D’Exception De Champagne C17 – 2017. A consortium of 15 growers who contribute fruit from all 17 Grand Cru regions in Champagne. 50 months on lees, 2 g/l dosage, 65% pinot noir. This appears to have extended on-cork aging, but it is, perhaps, the high-impact winemaking style that defines this wine. Whilst the colour is still straw, the nose and palate have lots of toasty brioche notes. Apple, in fact, apple juice, with a bruised tinge. Drying textured, not overly generous, but a very impressive wine. Power. Complexity. High-impact style, with preserved fruit. Polarising.

Freycinet – Radenti Grand Vintage – 2016. From Bicheno on Tasmania’s east coast. 5 – 6 years on lees, 8 g/l dosage, 60% chardonnay. There is a wow factor here, even though the aromas and flavours are not familiar to me. Power, intensity, depth, texture, this has it all. The mouth-coating texture and near seamless palate transition are a revelation. Lingers for some time, with the fruit ebbing and flowing across the palate. Superb wine. 96pts. At $75, this is a steal direct from the winery.

Prestige.

Gusbourne – 51 Degrees North – 2016. Produced from vineyards in Kent and West Sussex in England. 5 yrs on lees, 10 g/l dosage, 67% chardonnay. What a wine. Fine, intense and powerful, yet elegant and very refined. Seamless. Tremendous length and persistence. Magical. The texture and mouthfeel are a standout. A stunning wine with great energy, drive and superbly judged residual. 98pts. Est $500.

Egly-Ouriet – Grand Cru Millésime – 2014. Pinot dominant blend from the Montage de Reims in Champagne. 8 years on lees, 1 g/l dosage, 70% pinot noir. Here, the autolytic characters have been turned up to 11. Impressive acidity, power, depth, but lacks the elegance and refinement of the Gusbourne. Impressive, but not a style I want to drink. As it warms up, gets even better, but it is just too much for me. 95pts. $1050. (This is the beauty of blind tastings. If I had known it was Egly, then I am sure I would have found the style more to my liking 😊.)

Raumland – Grand Cuvee Triumvirat Brut – 2015. Fruit comes from Gernany’s Rheinhessen and Pfalz, over 8 yrs on lees, 7g/l dosage. 50% chardonnay, 35% pinot noir, 15% pinot meunier. This straddles the boundary between the last two. There is overt power, but everything is a little more restrained by comparison. Good drinking, hopefully with some grilled chicken. 93 pts.

Ferrari – Reserva Del Fondatore – 2012. 100% chardonnay, an incredible 10 yrs on lees, extra brut. This is different, in a very good way. Toasted cashew nuts, chestnut and even a hint of sesame. Depth and power to burn, this is a hugely impactful wine. A powerful wine with great power that would handle any food thrown at it and will be all the better for it. Superb. 96pts.

Deviation Road – Beltana Late Disgorged – 2011. Produced by Kate Laurie in the Adelaide Hills, this wine had an incredible 12 years on lees prior to disgorgement. 100% chardonnay, 7 g/l dosage. Wonderful wine that is redolent of crunchy Granny Smith apples that run the length of the palate and provides the acid backbone that keeps this alive and fresh. Intense, subtle power. Great length of flavours. No food is required. A wonderful wine on the world stage. 96 pts. A bargain at $145 from the cellar door.

Billecart Salmon – Cuvee Louis – Blanc de Blanc – 2009. 12 years on lees, 3/75g/l dosage, 100% chardonnay. Spectacular! The acidity keeps this so, so fresh. Vibrant. But it needs a few years to settle down and relax into its frame. 97 pts? You bet.

Barry Weinman: 4^th November 2024

Houghton Jack Mann Vertical Tasting: 1994 – 2023

Sitting down to taste 20 vintages of Houghton’s Jack Mann was an unbelievable privilege for two reasons.

Firstly, it was an opportunity to look at every vintage of the wine ever produced including the never released 2018 as well as the yet to be bottled 2023 vintage. The 2018 was not released due to a fire at the storage facilities Houghton was using. Not only did it destroy all bottles of the 2018, it also destroyed their entire museum.

The second reason that this was such a memorable event was having the opportunity to sit down with eight current and former Houghton winemakers as well as to hear from Corinne Lamont and Dorham Mann, Jack Mann’s children.

Before the tasting, Dorham shared his memories of helping Jack make wine in his heyday, and the approach Jack took in crafting what were, at the time by all accounts, some incredible wines; wines that shone on the world stage.

The impact that Houghton has had on the Australian wine scene goes much further than just the amazing wines that have been produced over the years. There is also the legacy of being a training ground for some of Australia’s best winemakers.

The senior winemakers responsible for producing Jack Mann are Paul Lapsley (1994 – 1997), Larry Cherubino (1999 – 2002), Rob Bowen (2004 – 2008), Ross Pamment (2011 – 2020) and Courtney Treacher (2021 onwards).

There is also a veritable who’s who of winemakers who cut their teeth at Houghton. On Rob Bowens watch alone, junior winemakers included the likes of Peter Dillon, Simon Osika, Lance Parkins, Mark Bailey, Troy Overstone and Garth Cliff, as well as Ross Pamment and Courtney Treacher.

And based on the current tasting, the best wines are still to come, such is the quality of wines being produced under Courtney’s watch.

Given that, as mentioned earlier, the Houghton back catalogue was destroyed, it is thought that this is the first and last time this tasting will be held. The majority of the wines came from private cellars and no one present had tasted all the vintages prior to the event.

A special thanks to JJ and the team at Lamont’s for making this event possible!

So, to the wines.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1994. The fruit is still holding up here, particularly with a bit of time in the glass, but this is fully mature. Coffee and hints of port add interest. Based on this bottle, I would drink this sooner rather than later.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1995. From a great year, this is simply superb. There is pristine fruit in the blueberry spectrum, with gentle tobacco and spice notes adding a seductive edge. The power and the fruit has softened somewhat but is still palpable with tremendous length and persistence of flavours. Seamless and seductive, this is a magnificent drink, yet still has years of life ahead of it. 97 points seems only fair.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon -1996. It is hard to know if this was a bad bottle or if the vintage is just not holding up as this was somewhat oxidised with a touch of volatile acidity. From a more difficult year, this included 10% shiraz from South Australia in the final blend.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1998. A fully mature wine with coffee and chocolate notes, yet there is still density and intensity to the fruit and excellent acid balance. Very long and with a lovely texture, this is very good indeed. 95 points

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 1999. 1999 was another great vintage and here, the rich fruit is still somewhat closed after all these years. There are hints of tertiary chocolate and coffee notes and, with air, the fruit kept on building. One of the most intense wines of the tasting and included the addition of 30% malbec and a higher proportion of new oak. 96 points.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2000. At 24 years of age, this is still supple, silky and fresh. Such a lovely drink! The colour is brick red. The fruit density and velvety texture are such a highlight. A wine that lingered on the pallet for an age and is at the peak of its drinking window. 95+ points.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2001. Powerful, intense, and so, so impressive. The structure is still taut, with fine tannins and texture and vibrant acidity adding freshness. Savoury coffee and cocoa nib notes add depth and complexity. The wine lingered on the palate for an age, with the fresh acidity keeping things lively. 96pts.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2002. Whilst not the most dense of wines, coming from a wet year, this is still amazingly fresh and vibrant, the palate framed by the fine acidity. I would have just liked to see a little bit more fruit weight, but an excellent drink all the same. 94 points.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2004. 2004 was Robert Bowen’s first vintage and seems to coincide with the change in style. Not as dense or obvious as some of the earlier wines, this is lithe and fresh. Initially, the fruit seemed to lack concentration, but with air, this just kept getting better. A very good wine. 93 points.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007. With this vintage there seemed to be a return of the coffee and cocoa nib characters that I’d seen previously but here they’re very subtle. The palate is rounded, mellowed and showing great length and persistence of flavours. The fresh acidity complements the ripe fruit. Very impressive indeed. 96 points.

While it was never commercially released, we also tried a bottle of the 2007 under screw cap and the contrast was quite dramatic. The screw cap wine was incredibly youthful fresh and vibrant, with still taut acidity and a tight, structured finish. A wine that will happily cellar for at least another decade or two, and probably a lot longer. 97 points.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008. I love the intensity and depth of fruit on this wine , but the finish just fell away ever so slightly. Another bottle may have been better.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011. The ripe fruit here is fresh and has lovely texture, length and persistence. Whilst youthful, and needing at least a decade in the cellar, this is seductive and silky and is already a delightful wine. This was the first wine made by Ross and saw a reduction in the amount of new oak and had no acid or tannin adjustment. 95pts.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012. This wine is so, so good. Intense, powerful and textured, yet drinking beautifully already, the fruit mouth coating. Impactful, and with complexity to burn. While this is great drinking now, it will be even better in 10 or 20 years’ time. Under screw cap. 96+ points.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013. In 2013 the fruits seemed to take on a cooler character. A little bit shy at the moment, with herbal tinges and very fresh acidity. But with air, the fruit opened up. Based on this bottle, I am not sure if there is enough fruit to match the acidity in the very long term, so best try it in its relative youth and decide for yourself.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014. While this is really quite closed at this point, it is quite superb. The fruit is dense and textured with power palpable across the palate. On the finish the acid and tannins really build, suggesting that a couple of hours in a decanter or 20 years in the cellar is required to see it at its best. A fantastic, age worthy wine. 96 Points.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2015. This is a totally delicious wine, but on the night, it was shaded by some of the other vintages.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2016. By 2016, the wines were really getting quite primary in the fruit characteristics. Fresh and vibrant with well-judged acidity and fine, though prodigious tannins. A very good wine that got better the longer it sat in the glass. 94+ points

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2017. I enjoyed this wine even more than the 2016 as, while it’s not overtly powerful, it has great intensity and depth of fruit, supported by fine tannins and sympathetic oak management. A real sleeper in the tasting, this could be one of the better wines released under this label in the long term. 96+ points.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. All I can say is that it is a great pity that this wine was never released. Intense and powerful, with amazing density and structure. A brilliant wine that needs decades to show at its best. Served from magnum. 97 points.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. This was the most restrained and shy of all wines tasted. The fruit is there, but it is subtle and subdued at this early stage in its development. With time though, the lovely violet-tinged fruit will make a statement. A wine to watch. 96 points.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. This is as good as any wine released up until this point. It really is quite spectacular, the intensity, power, and depth of the fruit is quite breathtaking. Unbelievably good. 97+points.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2021. The beautiful fruit here is pretty, fragrant and beguiling. The difficult vintage has resulted in a lighter style where great effort was required to ensure that only the highest quality fruit made it into the blend. Was the Halliday Wine Companion cabernet sauvignon of the year.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. While this wine is yet to be released, it may well be the best ever made under this label. Superb fruit and brilliant winemaking have collided head first, resulting in a breathtakingly good wine. Start saving, as this is a wine that you want in your cellar. 98 points.

Houghton – Jack Mann – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. This was only a barrel sample, so it does not necessarily reflect the final blend. But it is another amazing wine with beautiful blueberry fruit characters to the fore and supple, silky, near seamless texture on the palate. Incredibly age worthy. 97 points.

The fruit for both the Jack Mann and the C. W. Ferguson cabernet comes from the Justin vineyard in the Frankland region, with the Jack Mann coming off the higher parts of the vineyard and the C.W. Ferguson from a lower section. The rows in the middle go either way, depending on the vintage.

Singlefile New Release – October 2024

Barry Weinman: 16^th October 2024

Since its inception, Singlefile has continuously delivered wines of the highest quality. Wines that have continually challenged the very best from Margaret River and further afield. And with the current releases, winemaker Coby Ladwig has further entrenched Singlefile as one of the leading Western Australian wineries.

If the quality of the wine was not enough, Patrick Corbett and team have also ensured that the wines deliver incredible value at all price points in the range. Add to this some super packaging and you have an irresistible offering.

With the rieslings for example, whether it is the entry level Great Southern riesling or the exceptional The Pamela, they all offer brilliant drinking and exceptional value.

A personal favourite for me has always been the Fumé Blanc, a wine that unashamedly tries to emulate the super premium white wines from Bordeaux. And with the 2024 vintage they have succeeded admirably.

Another wine that continues to surprise and delight is the Rosé. This is one of the few rosés on the market that I actually want to drink.

At the top of the quality tree, The Vivienne chardonnay and The Philip Adrian cabernet are truly outstanding. The sheer quality of the latter from the 2020 vintage put it ahead by a whisker in this release.

Reviewed

Singlefile – Riesling – 2024. Different style to its bigger brothers, being richer and more overt straight out of the glass. The nose and palate are flooded with ripe riesling fruit, with hints of musk and spice adding interest. Whereas the more expensive wines are finer and tending towards ethereal, this is all about the joyful ripe fruit that smashes the tongue with a panoply of flavours. Superb now or over the next 5 to 8 years, with excellent length and persistence of fruit. 12.1% alc, 94pts – $27.

Singlefile – Single Vineyard – Riesling – 2024. What initially grabbed my attention with this wine was just how approachable it is on release. But don’t be fooled, this is a serious wine with brilliant acid elevating the palate beyond the ordinary. With a little air in the glass this wine really started to sing, its mouthfeel and texture aided by brilliantly handled phenolics. From the Blue Lake vineyard. 11.8%alc – 95pts – $35.

Singlefile – The Pamela – Riesling – 2023. This is just sublime. The wine is at once delicate and shy yet, almost magically, powerful, intense and textured all at once. The palate is seamless, captivating, charming and irresistible and the flavours build and linger for an age. The ultra fine acidity builds on the finish leaving the palate dry and the taster longing for another sip, or perhaps some freshly shucked oysters or even a vegetable gyoza. From the Misery Hills vineyard in the Porongorups. 11.7% alc, 97pts – $45.

Singlefile – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2024. Subtle and supple, this is an exercise in restraint: fine, elegant and long, with depth and density. But this is more about texture and mouthfeel than fruit power. Excellent length and persistence with complexity built, perhaps, by a touch of lees work. Not overly serious, but delicious drinking. Try it on its own, or with a plate of sashimi. 13.1% alc, 93+pts – $27.

Singlefile – Fumé Blanc – Sauvignon Blanc – 2024. This is a very complex wine with grapefruit characters, struck match, minerality, lemony acidity, texture, depth, and subtle power. The wine evolves and transforms as it lingers on the palate, showing excellent intensity, yet drinking beautifully already. A superb wine. 75% of the wine was fermented in new oak barrels. The aim was to make a wine in the style of a white Bordeaux and the team have succeeded admirably. Value! 13.3% alc, 95pts – $35.

Singlefile – Run Free – Pinot Grigio – 2024. This is a wine to put a smile on your face. Pretty, floral and mineral laden, the fruit is quite lovely. Deliciously drinkable. 13.2% alc, 93pts – $27.

Singlefile – Rosé – Sangiovese – 2024. Pretty colour, pretty packaging, pretty nose, pretty wine! This is such a fine and elegant wine with hints of red berry fruit and a subtle texture that is crying out for some tapas. One of the few rosé style wines that I want to actually drink. Bravo!. 12.7% alc, 93pts – $35.

Singlefile – The Philip Adrian – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. My initial response was OMG!. This is just stunning. Intense and packed with latent power, yet so, so fine and elegant. The fruit coats the entire length of the palate building and evolving over time. Remarkably this is seamless and so, so long and fine. Superb fruit and wine making collide into a truly extraordinary wine. Drink any time over the next three decades. From the Riversdale Vineyard in Frankland which was planted in 1997 to Houghton clone. 15 months in oak (40%new). 14.1% alc, 97pts – $100.

Grosset Rieslings – 2024 Vintage

Barry Weinman: 30^th September 2024

Let me get straight to the point. The 2024 Rieslings from Grosset are the best they have ever released

And the 2024 Polish Hill is at least as good as any Australian riesling I have ever had the privilege of tasting. It may very well be the greatest I have tried, but my memory is not good enough to say that definitively.

But it is worth noting that there does seem to be an evolution in style, especially for the Polish Hill and, to a lesser extent the Alea.

If you get the chance to try them, please let me know what you think. I am sure you will not be disappointed. I have bought all three for my cellar.

Reviewed.

Grosset – Polish Hill – Riesling – 2024. Pristine, vibrant, perfumed and extraordinarily pretty. This is just beautiful, and it is unlike almost any riesling I have had before (and I have had a few). The palate is silky and textured. Yet there is extraordinarily fine acid driving the finish, with a mere hint of phenolics adding to the texture. And it kept improving in the glass, developing layers of aromas and flavours. Pointing this wine does not do it justice, it is that good. 12.1% alc, 98pts – $80.

Grosset – Springvale – Riesling -2024. More subdued nose. But on the palate, this comes to life with energetic drive and great composure. Very long and fine, this is classic Clare riesling, with lime juice, gentle minerality and extraordinary texture. A wonderful wine. 12.5% alc – 96pts – $55.

Grosset – Alea – Riesling – 2024. Perfumed and gently spiced – a truly mesmerising nose. The palate has a generosity that stands this apart from the others in the range, the residual sugar playing an important part here. This is balanced by supple phenolics and super-fine acidity. A lovely drink and one that would be perfect on a warmer afternoon, served with some tapas. To quote the winery “This is the fifteenth vintage of the ‘European’ style from the Grosset Rockwood Vineyard with its hard red rock and poor orange/red loam soil.” 12.5% alc, 96pts – $48.

Wines I like to Drink: Deep Woods in Focus

Barry Weinman: 23^rd September 2024

That the team at Deep Woods are making great wines should come as no surprise to anyone. Their show record over the last decade with cabernet is unmatched by anyone. And the chardonnays have quietly been amassing a swag of trophies and gold medals along the way.

This run of show success is likely to continue, given the superb quality of the upcoming spring releases.

What stood out with a tasting of the yet to be released premium 2023 chardonnays and 2022 cabernets was just how fantastic they are to drink right now. Don’t get me wrong, the wines (especially the cabernets) will age very well, but they are also immensely enjoyable on release.

According to the winemaking team, 2023 was a near perfect year for chardonnay, and it is easy to see why with wines like these. And the 2022 vintage for cabernet is being lauded far and wide.

When you factor in price, the offering is irresistible. The Reserve Chardonnay is likely to sell for $80 and the Reserve Cabernet for $90. A bargain on the world wine stage!

The wines are due for release in November and I, for one, will be queuing up to buy them.

NB. I reviewed the wines with Matt and Emma from the winemaking team in an unmasked tasting. Points are an indicator only.

Reviewed

Deep Woods – Single Vineyard – Albarino- 2024. The fruit for this wine comes from recent plantings on the Amadeus Vineyard in Wilyabrup. The aim of the winemaking was to preserve fruit and retain freshness. A goal that they have achieved very well. Aromas of nectarine and pear lead the nose, but it is the textural, slightly viscous palate where this really shines. Gentle phenolics, hints of lemon pith and lime-like acidity combine to make for an excellent wine to serve with salt and pepper squid. 12.5% alc, 93pts, $35.

Deep Woods – Single Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2023. Restrained and fine, yet quite deep and complex, the fine fruit and supple winemaking combining perfectly. The citrus and subtle peach fruit notes are supported by a silky texture and mineral-laden acidity. From a vineyard in Karridale, what is most remarkable is that the fruit is Gingin clone, yet it offers a tighter, more linear expression of the variety, where citrus has replaced the tropical notes. Will be great with foods such as grilled chorizo. 13.0% alc, 95pts – $50.00.

Deep Woods – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. This has everything turned up a notch. More depth of fruit, more complexity from the winemaking and more impact from the texturing oak. Here, the citrus has been replaced with the more typical tropical/pineapple acidity. Lees and barrel work add greatly, with minerality and struck match notes really adding to the mix. And there is tremendous length and persistence of flavours. The fruit is primarily from Wilyabrup and spent time in 35% new oak (a combination of barriques, hogs heads and puncheons). A superb wine that deserves to be considered amongst the region’s finest. 13.0% alc, 96pts – $80.00.

Deep Woods – G2 Single Vineyard – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Leads with a wonderful nose which includes blueberry and blackberry fruit. The resolved tannins and oak add supporting structure and mouthfeel, but do not impede the flow of the fruit in the slightest. Superb drinking and so, so long. Yes, it should age, but honestly, I would not bother as it is such a good drink now. 14.0% alc, 95pts – $50.00.

Deep Woods – Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Wow, wow, wow. This is so impressive. The power, intensity, structure and complexity are turned up to 10, yet this is still only medium bodied and offers immediate drinking pleasure. Brilliant winemaking, the integrated, highly polished oak is a highlight. This is more blackcurrant and spice rather than blue fruits and the tremendous length and the mouthfeel is a rare pleasure. Despite all the power, this is elegance personified. A point of differentiation between this and many of the other great Margaret River cabernets is that this uses Yallingup fruit of the estate vineyard right out the front of the winery, as opposed to Wilyabrup fruit. 14.0% alc, 97pts – $90.00.

Deep Woods – Septimus – Single Vineyard – Cabernet Malbec – 2022. In comparison to the Reserve and G2, this is more impactful, swapping some of the polish from the Reserve and juiciness of the G2 and replacing these with raw power. With earthy undertones and a touch of herbs and spice, the savoury notes from the malbec really add. Having said that, this is still a slick, polished and sophisticated wine. Muscular and age-worthy, a fascinating counterpoint to the previous wines. 14.0% alc, 94pts – $50.00.

Howard Park: A Sparkling Future

Barry Weinman: 15^th September 2024

Given that he had spent more than a decade under the guidance of the legendary Ed Carr at Arras, the appointment of Nic Bowen in 2021 to the role of Chief Winemaker at Howard Park clearly signalled the winery’s intentions to be in the upper echelon of Australian sparkling wine producers.

And my first impressions on trying the sparkling wines that have been made under Nic’s stewardship are very positive indeed.

What I was not prepared for was just how breathtakingly good other wines in the portfolio have become.

In close partnership with senior winemaker Mark Bailey and the viticultural team (led by David Botting), the already good wines at Howard Park have been taken to another level.

The soon to be released 2022 cabernets and 2023 chardonnays are nothing short of extraordinary.

Members of the tasting panel sat down with Nic and Mark to hear about the approach that is being taken in the vineyard and winery which has led to the evolution of style across the range.

Despite the quality of the latest releases, the team are still striving to improve quality and the consistency of styles, with tweaks to the oak regime part of the jigsaw.

The establishment of a reserve wine program for the sparkling wines is another important initiative to further refine the style of the sparkling program.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting, please use my points as an indicator only.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Petit Jeté – Blanc de Blancs – NV. The aim for this wine is to offer a “compelling consumer offering”, and the team have delivered on this in spades. Fine, fresh and lithe, I really like the line and length of flavours on the palate. The gentle peach fruit really builds and is quite delightful. The ripeness of the fruit has allowed for an extra-brut style, with only 4gm/l dosage. 100% Pemberton fruit, 18 months on lees (2022 base wine), remarkable value. 92pts – $33.

Howard Park – Jeté – Premier Brut – NV. This a step up in richness and texture, the pinot fruit really adding to the mix. The autolytic characters add depth, texture and gentle richness. Despite all the work in the winery, the focus here is on preserving the quality fruit, which really builds in the mouth. There is a fine mousse and excellent mouthfeel.
A pinot dominant blend, the fruit comes from the Mount Barrow Vineyard in Mt Barker. 3gm/l dosage. 30 months on lees. 2020 base. 93pts – $44.

Howard Park – Flint Rock – Riesling – 2023. The very pretty and perfumed fruit comes from Mt Barker and Frankland. The palate has has hints of of talc and zest, fine acidity and a minerality that adds zip to the finish. Lighter weight fruit and excellent drinking. 12.0% alc, 93pts – $30.

Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2023. This is very impactful, with ripe fruit and complex winemaking inputs flooding the senses. This is really very good. There is a richness and generosity running the length of the palate which develops pomelo/grapefruit notes in addition to more typical stone fruit characters. The acid is a highlight and adds drive to the finish. Great drinking now – 5 years. Hand picked, whole bunch pressed, 25% new oak puncheons. 12.5% alc, 95pts – $65.

Howard Park – Allingham – Chardonnay – 2023. Finer, more subtle and more restrained than the estate. Not taut, but a little shy today. But that is not doing this wine justice, as the quality of the fruit and winemaking is superb. There is a dangerous drinkability to this wine, however, this will be really hitting its peak in 5+ years. The oak (25% new barriques) is very fine and textured, adding weight and gravitas rather than overt flavours. Only a small proportion went through malolactic fermentation.
The fruit for this wine comes from the Block 5 on the Allingham vineyard in Karridale, which is planted to Gingin clone. The cooler subregion presenting a very refined style. 12.5% alc. 96pts – $100.

Marchand & Burch – Chardonnay – 2023. Here, things have been pared back and the texture and mouthfeel take centre stage. The acid is moving to pineapple, with the fruit adding white peach undertones. The quality oak is palpable, without being overt. Sitting in the glass, this blossoms. It is a higher acid style that demands food if drunk early, (tempura whiting for example), and will be at its best with medium term cellaring. From the Mount Barrow vineyard in Mt Barker, 40% new oak, partial malolactic fermentation.12.5% alc, 95-96pts – $95.

Howard Park – Flint Rock – Shiraz – 2023. The purple colour is most attractive. This is all about the fruit. Pretty, perfumed, lithe and fresh, with cherry, plum and gentle spice. Whilst the winemaking feels quite low intervention, the texture and mouthfeel are a highlight, with mineral-laden tannins adding depth and texture. Buy it, drink it, be happy. 14.0% alc, 93pts – $30.

Howard Park – Scotsdale – Shiraz – 2022. This turns things up a notch with greater depth and density of fruit. The overt berry characters have been toned down compared to the Flint Rock, but this is made up for with more structure and power. The cherry fruit builds, but it is the silky texture, supported by supple oak that is the highlight. Great drinking any time over the next 15 years. 14.0% alc, 94pts – $40.

Howard Park – Leston – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Oh wow. The prettiness of the fruit is arresting, supported by seasoned oak and firm tannins. This is not necessarily accessible, but it is impactful. With air, the presumed fruit really builds, and has clearly been protected during the winemaking process. Give it 10 years and be rewarded. 14.5% alc, 95pts – $TBC.

Howard Park – Abercrombie – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. This takes everything to another level. Superb fruit which has hints of blueberry, but is much darker toned than the Miamup. The oak handling perfectly frames the fruit, allowing the fruit to be the focus, yet providing depth, power and texture. The mouthfeel and silky tannins are a highlight, contributing to a wine that is so approachable now, even thought it has clearly been built to age long term. Ultimately though, this is taut and closed, and needs years to reach its drinking peak. Wonderful wine. Houghton clone fruit, from the Leston vineyard,18 months in barriques (30% new). 14.5% alc – 97+pts – $155.

Barry Weinman: 21^st August 2024

Sittella has been a favourite of mine for a number of years, driven by the high-quality wines on offer along with the outstanding quality/price ratio that they have offered.

Their name may not have the same cachet as some of the more prestigious WA producers, but I feel this relates more to the quiet, understated way they go about promoting themselves, along with the Berns family’s steadfast belief that they must deliver great value with everything they do, rather than any reflection on quality.

The premium wines in the range (Avant Garde and above) typically sell for between $40 and $60 a bottle which, given their quality, presents great buying and drinking opportunities.

I highlight the drinkability component as many of the wines are superb drinking on release. This is particularly apparent with the Avant Garde range.

With Yuri Berns now firmly in control of all aspects of winemaking, members of the Panel were keen to get some insight into the latest releases at Sittella.

Spend any time talking to Yuri and you will quickly come to understand that there is no luck or magic formula when it comes to producing the wines. There are several factors that come into play here.

• An encyclopaedic knowledge of the varieties, clones and root-stock options of the grapes. This is built on the back of decades of tasting grapes in the vineyard to understand exactly what each clone/rootstock combination brings to table
• A planting program based on this clonal knowledge to improve the overall quality of the harvest
• Technical expertise
• A desire to keep learning and developing, tapping into the knowledge of some of the industry’s best minds and palates
• Hard work
• Hard work
• Hard work

One final piece in the puzzle is a modern winery with owners who are prepared to invest in quality.

The end result is excellent wines that offer tremendous value!

The 2019 sparkling wines have been released before the 2018 due to the stylistic differences. Given that the 19s are already drinking a treat, this seems like a smart decision.

And in 2019, Yuri has reduced the final pressure in bottle to “Cremant” style with the pressure reduced from six atmospheres down to four. This was done to produce an even finer mousse.

In a nod to Bollinger, the sparkling wines are now aged in oak (primarily older) in search of greater depth and complexity.

NB: Wines were not tasted blind. Points are an indicator only.

Reviewed

Sittella – Marie Christien Lugten – Grand Vintage – 2017. This smells like a serious wine. One that also happens to be sparkling. Pear, floral jasmine and an almost gewurtztraminer-like muskiness. On the palate, this really builds, developing a lovely creamy texture, with excellent length and palate weight. Excellent drinking indeed. 94pts. $55

Sittella – Louis Jack Berns – Blanc De Blanc – 2019. Fine mousse and a very fine and elegant nose. Taut, refined and supple, with excellent mouthfeel. Whilst bright and fresh on the palate, this is already drinking brilliantly with gentle brioche characters adding complexity and excellent length and persistence of flavours on the finish. 10% new oak. 95pts. $60

Sittella – Azalee Eloise Berns – Grand Vintage – Rose – 2019. This is quite lovely. Pretty rose gold/ copper colour. There is a gentle berry richness to both the nose and palate from the pinot, supported by fine acidity and textural components. The length is a real highlight. Subtle, supple and refined, this is fantastic current drinking. 90% pinot, the colour coming from the addition of 10% of wine taken off-skins to give the colour. The clonal selection is important in this wine, with numerous trials done before settling on the final clonal blend. 95pts. $60.

Sittella – Avant Garde – Albarino – 2024. This is very pretty, with the aromatics tending towards apricot and Turkish delight. The palate is viscous, textured and complex, with balancing acidity to keep the finish fresh and alive. There is a hint of honey on the close which is most attractive. Surprising and delicious! From a new vineyard opposite the winery, this is one to watch over the next few years as the style continues to evolve. 93pts. $33.

Sittella – Avant Garde – Chenin Blanc – 2024. What a cracking wine ! Whilst taut and fresh, with grapefruit/citrusy acid, the balance is brilliant and the flavours continue to evolve and build long after swallowing the wine. Age-worthy? Yes, but this should also be on everyone’s go to list this summer. Grapes come from the 1963 block on the old Houghton vineyard, the second oldest chenin block in the Swan Valley. The grapes are hand picked and whole bunch pressed. 95-96pts. $33.

Sittella – Avant Garde – Chardonnay – 2023. This smells both very impressive and also expensive, given the high-quality fruit, winemaking and oak that is on show. Structural components and taut acidity lurk on the periphery, adding mouthfeel and texture, without colouring the fruit which is the star of the show. Dangerously drinkable and a bargain. 95pts.

Sittella – Avant Garde – El Vivero Rouge – 2023. A field blend from the nursery vineyard opposite the winery. This is an amazing wine in the way the ripe fruit is the focus, yet it retains great freshness and balance. On the close, the talc-like tannins start to make their presence felt, but are not aggressive. A great wine to have with slow-cooked hearty winter fare such as lamb shanks or an eggplant parmigiana. 94pts. $40.

Sittella – Golden Mile – Grenache 2022. Yes, yes, yes! Love the colour, love the perfumed fruit, love drinking it. Smash it down and be happy! Interestingly, the glass I tasted this from had a big impact on the profile, with it looking much more serious and structured in a Riedel pinot glass than it did in a Riedel chianti glass. 95pts – $40.

Sittella – Coffee Rocks – Shiraz – 2021. Superb colour, taking on an almost iridescent hue. My tasting notes had a lot of “wows” written on them. The fruit is intense, powerful and impactful. This would benefit from a decade or more in the cellar, though after an hour in the glass, this really started to sing. 96pts. $60.

Sittella – Liqueur Verdelho – NV. Heaven in a glass. Intense, but not cloying. Viscous but retains freshness. Sweet, but balanced and vibrant. 97pts Why not? $100.

New Release highlights – June 2024

Barry Weinman: 2 July 2024

Across the month, there were a few wines that stunned the panel for their ridiculous value and quality. Wines that will delight this winter at a variety of price points.

Reviewed

Xanadu – Stevens Road – Cabernet Sauvignon 2021. OMG, this is good. Very good. Outstanding even. The quality of the fruit is superb, but it is the winemaking that takes this to another level altogether. Silky, supple and seamless, the gentle intensity and subtle power (Is there such a thing?) coalesce on the palate to make for an amazing experience. Age-worthy? Yes, but I can’t recall another cabernet of this quality drinking better than this on release.
That said, as this sits in the glass, the intensity and structure start to really build. Fabulous. 13.5% alc – 96pts.

Singlefile – Grenache – 2023. Oooo, I like this a lot. Really pretty and supple with wonderful fragrant fruit characters. The palate is slurpable, gently spiced and downright fun. Yet this is a serious wine that should appeal to the connoisseur. The winemaking is very slick, serving to highlight the fruit, rather than colour the wine in any way. May age, but why bother? This provides huge drinking enjoyment right now. 13.6% alc – 95pts.

Singlefile – Run Free – Shiraz – 2023. There is a degree of gravitas to the wine which is surprising for a wine at this price point. There is decent density, texture and structure, yet this remains approachable and very enjoyable at this early stage of its development, with a supple mouthfeel and gentle tannins/acid on the finish. An excellent current drinking affordable shiraz. 13.6% – 93pts – $28.

Mount Langi Ghiran – Pepper Series – Shiraz – 2022. A very smart wine. Supple, savoury notes, red currant/berry fruit. Little in the way of oak. Excellent acidity carrying the finish. A bargain from Aldi. 14.0% – 92pts – $16.

Picardy in Focus: New Releases June 2024

Barry Weinman: 16^th June 2024

Established in 1993, Picardy have been quietly forging a reputation for high quality wines from the Pemberton region for three decades now. And, when judged as a whole, the current releases are, in all likelihood, the best ever released by the Pannell family under the Picardy label.

Yes, the pinots are very good, but it was the SBS and the Chardonnay in particular that really set the tone.

I can’t recall the last time that John Jens took a wine home from a panel tasting to drink at home, but such was the quality of the Chardonnay, it went home with him to have with dinner that night.

Reviewed

Picardy – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon -2023. Grassy and gently herbaceous, with lemon pith adding complexity. The finish is firm and textured, the mouthfeel driven by lemony acidity. This is much better than a quaff, with gentle barrel ferment characters adding depth and texture. Fragrant, very well made and worthy of decent food, this is one to try if you see it by the glass. 12.5% alc, 93pts.

Picardy – Chardonnay 2023. This is a fine rendition of chardonnay. White peach and lemon dominate both the nose and palate, with subtle oak and winemaking inputs adding greatly to the package. Length and persistence are exemplary, with supple acidity adding drive on the finish. A very appealing wine that, with a few years in the bottle, should build greater depth. 12.5% alc, 94-95pts.

Pannell Family – Pinot Noir – 2022. Lighter and sappier than its bigger brothers, this is a very good quaff. But it just lacks the depth of the more expensive wines. The mineral laden finish is unusual as it evolves into sea spray-like saline characters, and this will come into its own when paired with food. I know it is a cliché, but duck confit would be a great match.13.5% alc. 91pts.

Picardy – Tête de cuvée- Pinot Noir – 2022. This is altogether more serious and powerful, yet magically, comes across as soft, supple and seamless straight out of the bottle. (OK, so I did use a glass). With air though, the power and intensity of this wine starts to express itself more fully. Density, structure, intensity – all the hallmarks of a fine wine. Five years in the cellar will see this start to sing as the fruit opens up and the finish starts to fan out. Again, minerality, and an almost saline tang brings the finish to life. 13.5% alc. 95+pts.