Leo Buring Riesling: When less is more

March 2026

We put the current release Leo Buring rieslings against some of WA’s best, and they stood out for both quality, and for the slightly different fruit profile associated with South Australia as compared to Frankland River

The other remarkable feature was that the alcohol content of both wines is 10.5%. I find this particularly exciting. To put this in perspective, drinking half a bottle of this has approximately the same alcohol as drinking two full-strength cans of beer.

Ultimately, however it was the quality and, with the Eden Valley in particular, the value that was most impressive.

Reviewed

Leo Buring – Eden Valley – Riesling – 2025. This is fine, elegant, delicate and subtle. It is also supple and incredibly good drinking. The persistence and length of flavours are outstanding. Those flavours are primarily at the front of the palate, with the fruit characters giving way to ever-so-fine structural components along the length of the tongue. Think minerals, talc and texturing acidity. The acidity is more of a sensation than overt character. The nose is very pretty, with hints of musk, lime, and an almost nectarine character. There is an immediacy to this wine that is captivating. A tremendous bargain. 10.5% – 95pts.

Leo Buring – DWC 17 Leonay – Riesling – 2025. Another cracking wine, but this is more intense, with the juicy, lime-laden fruit the defining feature. Excellent length and persistence, but has remarkable restraint to the high quality fruit. And the superb balance is a highlight. A sleeper of a wine, where experience tells me that this will be a superstar. Built for the long haul. 10.5% – 96pts.

February 2026

Here are my picks of the best wines that the panel has reviewed in the last week or so.

Reviewed

Sittella – Avant-Garde – Albarino – 2025. Very attractive with a nutty, almond meal/apricot kernel complexity. The palate is textured and moreish, with the nutty notes complemented by a saline minerality that adds texture and depth, with gentle viscosity further enhancing the palate. Great length is driven by fine acidity. Yum, as it warms this gets so much more expressive — and even better. Delicious with food or alone. 13.5% alc – 95pts – $33.

Victory Point – Chardonnay – 2022. Very interesting wine, and very good indeed. This is tight. But it is not austere or mean. Rather, it is shy and restrained, and full of potential. Stone fruit is the key character, but here this is more in the apricot kernel spectrum, rather than ripe peach. And there is a nutty character that complements this well. The viscosity is a highlight and the wine is textural, but seamless for all intents and purposes. 95pts – $55.

Victory Point – The Mallee Root – Cabernet/Malbec – 2023. Oh wow. This is most impressive. So fine, so elegant, so good. There is density and power, but this is in a restrained, elegant style. The fruit is perfectly ripe and oh so long. Blackberry, brambly fruit, texturing oak and fine, structuring tannins and incredible length of flavours. Remarkably, for a wine of this price, it could take 5 – 10 years in the cellar for the fruit to fully express itself, but it is fabulous now, all the same. A lovely, middle weight wine that is unbelievable value. 95pts – $29.

Xanadu – Malbec – 2023. Fragrant and oh so succulent, this is a mouthful of happiness. Unlike the last, this is more structured, with fine (though notable) tannins and supple oak influence. These do not interfere with the fruit, but they do make this a bigger, more robust style at this early age. Whilst this will be fabulous now with grilled lamb chops, I feel that 5 years in the cellar will see this progress further. Superb length. Excellent fruit. 95pts – $45.

Nocturne – Sheoak Vineyard – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. This is a slightly different expression of Margaret River cabernet, and all the better for it. Here, there is none of the cooler, menthol and eucalypt notes. Rather, there is ripe, precise and somewhat restrained red currant fruit. Lovely fruit on the palate, with texturing fruit/oak tannins adding supple texture and mouthfeel. Seamless, for all intents and purposes, but also restrained on the close, as the tannins gently blanket the fruit. Yet this remains very good now, but will be even better in 10+ years. 95pts.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. This has much more overt power, the fruit combining with the tannins and oak to make an immediate impact. Whilst not quite seamless, the flow of fruit on the palate is excellent, with the structural components kicking in on the finish to make for an excellent wine. As this sits in the glass, the fruit builds and gets even more impressive. Sumptuous and delicious! Drink now – 10+ years. A serious wine that is excellent value. 95pts.

Victory Point – Cabernet/Franc – 2024. Oh wow. This is a gob full of delicious berry fruit. This is lighter bodied, with vibrant, flamboyant fruit that is just delightful. The fruit is complemented by the finest of tannins, and oak is nowhere to be seen. I find it hard to imagine a better current-drinking Margaret River red. Extra points for the happiness it brings me. 94pts.

Xanadu – Stevens Road – Chardonnay – 2023. Oh wow. It has been a little while since I saw this wine last, and the palate has really filled out. It is not so much about fruit power, rather, it is about the gorgeous texture and creamy mouthfeel. The brilliant oak use is an important contributor to this wine, imparting texture and complexity, without adding any specific flavours. The winemaking has also been pared back, with the lees and barrel work imperceptible in the final product. Superb 96pts.

Cullen 2023 Prestige Reds

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. This is somehow both profound and lithe at the same time. The nose leads with beautiful blueberry notes, along with floral highlights. I can almost imagine violets. The palate is silky and very elegant, with the fruit supported by a lattice of very fine oak and tannins that add texture, but in no way impede the flow of the fruit. The length is outstanding. A very fine wine indeed. The tannins and oak are exquisite. 13.5% alc – 96pts.

Cullen – Vanya – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. This is breathtakingly good. It has so much of everything, yet is fine, elegant and restrained at the same time. It is impossible to do this wine justice in a review, as it continually evolves on the palate for what seems like minutes. The fruit is exquisite, and the texture sublime. The incredible length and persistence are a highlight, as is the seamless palate transition. Never-ending cascade of fruit. Opulent. Interestingly, this is made from 100% Cabernet. 13.5% alc – 98pts +.

Lamonts Cottesloe: 26th January 2026

One of the most popular tastings that the team at Lamonts put on is Australasia’s best pinot noirs that are currently or soon to be available.

As expected, wines such as Mount Mary and Bass Philip starred, but it was some of the more affordable wines that really grabbed my attention. None more so than the 3 Drops 2023 pinot. A brilliant wine for around $35.

Castle Rock was another value pick, with the Dilletti showing very well indeed. And from Tasmania, the Bream Creek is a superb wine and another bargain at $50.

Here are my highlights. All wines were tasted blind and I was not aware of the composition of the tasting.

Reviewed

3 Drops – Pinot Noir – 2023. The pristine fruit is taken to another level here by the addition of some lovely earthy, savoury notes. The fruit quality is outstanding, and the winemaking is spot on. There is just enough grip and structure to make this serious, but not enough to overwhelm the vibrant fruit. The persistence of flavours is truly outstanding and the length a highlight. The finish is lithe, fresh, supple, the oak a textural component, rather than an overt character. Food optional, such is the prettiness. Now – 5 years. Insane value. 95pts – $36.

Castlerock- Dilletti – Pinot Noir – 2024. Pretty, pretty fruit that is floral and beautifully perfumed. This really is a highlight. It is not the most densely structured wine in the tasting. Rather it is lithe, elegant and polished. But do not underestimate this wine. Lurking beneath the pretty façade is a serious side with structure building with air and in the mouth. Great now, but even better in 5 years. 95.5pts – $55.

Picardy – Tete de Cuvee – Pinot Noir – 2021. Cherry and supple, subtle spice to the fore on the nose which also leads on to the palate. There is a bit of wow here, as the balance is spot on. I love the way the acidity plays across the palate, giving the fruit energy and drive. This is a subtle wine, and easy to overlook, but it is seriously good and worthy of your attention. Excellent value in this line up. 95.5pts.

Tolpuddle – Pinot Noir – 2023. Oh, this is good. I mean very good. There is density to the fruit and a supple, silky texture that is very attractive. This reminds me of Central Otago, given the succulent, fleshy fruit and silky structure. And it is oh so delicious and gluggable. Great oak and fruit. 95pts.

Marchand & Burch – Mount Barrow – Pinot Noir – 2023. Another fine, elegant wine. The fruit is subtle and almost delicate, though there is innate power sitting behind the façade. Cherry, berry and spice fruit notes lead on to super fine, texturing tannins and oak. The latter adding no overt flavours, instead adding lovely texture and mouthfeel. Wonderful fruit. 95.5pts.

Yarra Yering – Pinot Noir – 2023. Whilst there is more overt power here, this still remains balanced and almost silky in the way it caresses the palate. The fruit is quite exquisite, with berry notes the defining feature. The fruit is supported by a supple savoury lift that adds interest and depth. Ethereal, this is a beautiful wine. 96pts.

Bream Creek – Pinot Noir – 2023. Minerality leaps out of the glass, but this quickly gives way to pristine, cherry-like fruit. Supple, silky and refined, there are no rough edges at all. This is not plush, rather it is refined and elegant, but it is very silky and dare I say it… sexy. A beautiful wine and very new world in style given the pristine fruit. 95.5pts – $50.

Bass Philip – Premium – Pinot Noir – 2023. Wow. The blueberry fruit is quite spectacular, supported by fine tannins and silky oak. This is the Goldilocks wine of the tasting… Just right. The structural components are merely a whisper in the background, providing the canvas on which the fruit is painted. So so long and persistent this is a sublime wine. Such is its beauty, I can’t imagine this getting any better with aging, given just how good this is right now, but 5 years in the cellar certainly won’t hurt it, Beautifully crafted wine. 96-97pts.

Felton Road – Block 3 – Pinot Noir – 2023. Wowsers. Another superb wine, but here, the minerality and structure are turned up a notch. But this is not to the detriment of the fruit. Rather, they serve as a counterpoint adding texture without dulling the fruit’s vitality. 5 years will see this relax and unwind a little, and will allow the fruit to shine even brighter. 96pts.

Mount Mary – Pinot Noir – 2023. A complete wine and one that is very long and with excellent persistence. But this is a sleeper as there are no overt/defining features at this point. But with air or time, I am confident this will blossom. Very impressive. As this sits in the glass, the fruit continues to build and is so very fine and polished. Lovely. 96pts.

Rippon – Tinker’s Field – Pinot Noir – 2021. Oh wow, this is mind-blowingly good. Sublime, spine-tingling, stunning! There is depth and weight to the fruit, but the structure never gets in the way of the party. Desert Island wine. Yep, it is that good. 97pts.

Lowestoft – La Maison – Pinot Noir – 2023. A fine, ethereal wine that left me swooning and slightly weak at the knees, such is its beauty. The textural components are a highlight, adding great depth and structure in a way that cossets the fruit, rather than overwhelming it.96pts.

Bass Philip- Depuis – Pinot Noir – 2023. And…. BOOM. What a wine to finish the tasting. This is plush, succulent, seamless and oh so good. Beneath the soft, warm exterior, there is real depth and power that ensures that this remains balanced, focused and tremendous drinking. Brilliant fruit. Brilliant winemaking. Brilliant wine. A great wine on the world stage. 97.5pts – $550.

March 2026

There has been a lot of talk in the industry about the 2024 vintage in Margaret River, with some expressing concerns about the warmer, compressed vintage.
This tasting completely dispels the concerns. 

This is one of the highest pointed brackets of wines that the panel have reviewed.

Reviewed

Piero – Chardonnay – 2024. Oh wow. This is a different style to some here, but no less worthy. More refined, more elegant, yet just as impactful and so so impressive. The palate transition is totally seamless, with different flavours ebbing and flowing over time, caressing and cossetting the taste buds with the highest quality fruit. The winemaking is a mere whisper in the background, framing the fruit and adding a textural backbone, but not impacting in any way. Stunning. 14.0% alc – 97pts – $110

Cullen – Kevin John – Chardonnay – 2024. To quote John Jens: Yes, Yes. YES!!! This is a totally stunning wine. Fine, elegant and restrained, yet somehow, at the same time intense and powerful, with great purity of fruit. Finesse. Mouthfeel. Stunning length and persistence. 13.5% alc – 97pts – $180.

Deep Woods – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2024. OMG, the cracking lineup just keeps on going. The fruit here is a touch riper and with more overt power, and is perfectly matched to the fine oak and supple winemaking inputs. This is a case where the whole is much greater than the sum of the parts. The way the flavours linger on the finish is truly outstanding. One of the greats. Peach, nectarine, grapefruit-like acidity and sublime oak. 13.5% alc – 97. $80.

Peccavi – Cape Falls – Chardonnay – 2024. This is quite superb. Very intense and subtly powerful, this is an amazing amalgam of great fruit, fine oak and sympathetic winemaking. The length and persistence of flavours is quite stunning, as is the mouthfeel/texture. There are stonefruit characters to start, but there is so much more. A sublime, spine tingling wine made in tiny quantities . 13.0% alc – 96.5pts.

Cullen – Flower Day – Kevin John – Chardonnay – 2024. This was the first wine in the line-up and was a superb start to the bracket. This is a much more restrained rendition of chardonnay, with higher acidity and the fruit a little muted at the moment. The palate is crisp and taut, with nectarine and guava fruit notes. This really needs some time to open up, but will be a great wine in time. The winemaking inputs have been superbly managed and there is latent tension and energy sitting behind this. 13.5% alc – 96pts.

10th February 2026

The Great Southern, whilst geographically large, is relatively small from the perspective of wines produced. In 2024, the total crush for the region was 4,322 tonnes. This is only 17% of the size of Margaret River’s crush (25,593 tonnes).

And Frankland River is only one of the region’s viticultural areas, so the harvest there is smaller again.
Let’s look at the numbers:

2024 Australian Harvest = 1.43 Million tonnes
2024 Western Australian Harvest = 41,113 tonnes (2.9% of National)
2024 Margaret River Harvest = 25,593 tonnes (1.8% of National)
2024 Great Southern Harvest = 4,322 tonnes (0.3% of National)
Source: MI_VintageReport2024_F.pdf

Whilst Frankland River is very small on a national scale, the quality of the wines produced more than makes up for this. And at the very top of the pyramid sit wines like Swinney’s Farvies.

2024 was a warmer, earlier year in the Great Southern and, to me, this is reflected in the wines. There is a touch more fruit weight and the wines are a tad more muscular than the extraordinarily pretty 2023s.

Just as good? Definitely. And age-worthy to boot.

A spectacular effort in the vineyards and in the winery (overseen by Rob Mann).

Reviewed

Swinney – Farvie – Grenache – 2024. This is a profound wine. Intense and powerful. That power is more palpable than in the previous vintage. But behind that, there is also the trademark pristine, fragrant grenache fruit that takes on an almost raspberry note. The purity of fruit is the leading feature, followed by the firm, yet silky structure. The latter is an amalgam of tannins and oak, and is in no way an impediment to the fruit. This has tremendous palate length and persistence of flavours. Ultimately, I would like to see this with a decade in bottle, as I am sure this is destined for greatness. 13.9% alc – 96.5+pts.

Swinney – Farvie – Mourvèdre – 2024. Oh my, the perfume here is quite extraordinary. Cranberries and black currant make up the fruit component to the nose. This carries through to the palate. The palate is fascinating as this is, at first, delicate and reticent, with restrained fruit and the supplest of structural components. But then the fruit ebbs and flows across the palate in waves, each time given a different glimpse of the story being told. And a minute or more later, I found myself absorbed by the mouthfeel, with different textural components interplaying across the palate. Totally seamless and very beguiling. A wine to sip and ponder. A crouching tiger, ready to pounce 13.6% alc – 96pts.

Swinney – Farvie – Shiraz – 2024. Oh wow, I think I must have died and gone to heaven, such is the beauty of this wine. Intense fruit, firm structure and supple oak. Yet the palate is seamless and spellbinding. Red fruits to the fore, with the minerality a defining feature of the palate. Intensity? Yes! But somehow, this remains medium bodied in many respects on the long, refined finish. Seamless, yet more structured than the other two wines in the range and my pick for both sheer quality as well as drinking pleasure at this early stage. When to drink? any time you get the chance… this is a superstar. 13.8% alc- 98pts.

February 2026

With the current release reds from Welland Wines in the Barossa, Quality/Price ratio is off the scale.
The Valley & Valley Cabernet is a great every-day drink that, at around $30, is a value standout if you like a rich Barossa red.

If anything, the Old Hands Shiraz is even better value. A classic Barossa red!

Reviewed

Welland – Valley & Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2024. Such lovely, aromatic, perfumed fruit on the nose. On the palate, the sweet berry fruit is balanced by fine, texturing acidity and supple minerality. Ok, so this is not the most serious wine ever made, but gee, it has to be one of the most delicious. It is the ripe, vibrant fruit that is the star, but the winemaking has contributed significantly, by taking a hands-off approach.

The winery states: We aim for a style that typifies the Barossa – plush fruit, subtle use of oak and soft, round tannins. And with this wine, they have nailed it. 14.5% alc – 94.5pts – $30.00.

Welland – Old Hands – Shiraz – 2022. This is a hedonistic wine, in the best sense of the word. Not because it is overly big or ripe. Rather, it is because they have packed so much fruit into what is, for all intents and purposes, a refined and elegant wine. Silky, supple, delicious, but at the same time, it is also dense, powerful and structured. Yet the palate transition is totally seamless. The oak (40% new American) has been completely absorbed into the wine. This is a magical drink now but will be even better in a decade or two. Svelte. Matured in locally coopered AP John American oak barrels. 15.0% alc – 97pts – $70.00.

Barry Weinman | August 2025

Flowstone was founded by the winemaking duo (and couple) Stuart Pym and Janice McDonald, both of whom had extensive experience in the Margaret River region. Day-to-day winemaking is overseen by Janice, with Stuart overseeing other aspects of the operation.

The home vineyard was planted in 2004, and they also source fruit from Karridale.

Like many in the region, the use of ceramic eggs alongside oak barrels has become part of the winemaking lexicon, along with extended lees work and careful barrel selection from cooperages like Louis Latour.

For me, the highlight is the “Queen of the Earth” range, which is sourced from specific vineyard blocks and represents the pinnacle of what Flowstone is trying to achieve.

REVIEWS

Flowstone Moonmilk Blend 2024
Perfumed, textured and pretty, with lovely mouthfeel to support. The gently viscous texture is a real highlight. Surprising length and persistence. The blend of Pinot Gris, Viognier, Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc works well together, with each variety contributing a key part of the palate. Fermented in a combination of older oak and ceramic eggs. Excellent drinking on its own, or with Thai food. 13.5% alc.
Drink: Now | 92 points | $28

Flowstone Sauvignon Blanc 2023
Aromatic and bordering on pungent (in a good way). The lantana, gooseberry and tropical fruit notes positively leap from the glass. On the palate, this is much more restrained and textured, with the tropical fruit and refreshing acidity providing a taut palate expression. The mouthfeel is excellent, with no rough edges to speak of, and here is a refreshing coastal saline tang to close. A touch of barrel work has added depth and impact. A serious wine that would be best with food (herbed roast chicken comes to mind). From Karridale, fermented in 600-litre older oak barrels with 12 months on lees.
93 points | $36

Flowstone Queen of the Earth Sauvignon Blanc 2022
This is quite superb. The fruit is somewhat muted compared to the previous wine, presenting a more harmonious package. The palate is where the quality really shines. Seamless, textured, long, the palate transitions to a nutty, almond-like flavour that lingers for some time. The barrel work and supple phenolics are what set this wine apart in my view, adding texture and subtle viscosity. Comes from a specific plot in the Karridale vineyard, fermented in one 600-litre barrel with 18 months on lees and regular bâtonnage.
94-95 points | $63

Flowstone Pinot Gris 2025
Textbook aromas and flavours. Delicious ripe pear is a key feature, as is the supple, creamy texture. For all intents and purposes, this is seamless, with remarkable length of flavours. Spice notes add complexity to the bone-dry finish, with the depth of fruit driving the palate. I would drink this over the Sauvignon Blanc at this stage.
93 points | $36

Flowstone Chardonnay 2022
Taut, restrained, shy. Everything is here in terms of ripe fruit and winemaking inputs, but it is all quite tightly held together right now. Peach-like fruit is a feature. This is quite a serious wine where texture and mouthfeel take precedence over overt fruit. The oak is texturing and well-integrated. From the Karridale vineyard using Dijon clones 95 and 96. Barrel fermented with 30% new oak, the light toast oak adds texture and impact without overwhelming the fruit. Will depend on your palate preference.
94 points | $45

Flowstone Queen of the Earth Chardonnay 2022
The complex winemaking inputs are a feature here. Minerality, texture and density, but in a fine, restrained style that is suited to ageing. As with the standard Chardonnay, the medium toast oak plays a role on the finish, but this is in no way obtrusive. The length of flavours is notable, with subtle stone fruit characters building on the finish. Very smart winemaking. From the home block using Dijon clones, barrel fermented with 50% new oak and 18 months of malolactic fermentation. Four barrels came from Louis Latour cooperage.
95 points | $63

Flowstone Touriga Nacional 2022
This is very different and very good. Tar, earthy notes, coffee, chocolate. Dark fruit abounds. Savoury and incredibly slick, the tannins that are both significant and extremely well-polished. This would be a great pasta wine. From the home vineyard, this represents brilliant drinking. 14.0% alc.
94 points

Flowstone Queen of the Earth Cabernet Sauvignon 2020
This has everything that a standard Cabernet has, but just more of it. More fruit, more structure, more depth, more enjoyment. But this comes with a caveat. While supple, the tannins are firm and texturing and do ultimately shut down the fruit on the finish. From the home vineyard planted in 2004, the density of flavour is remarkable. This wine demands patience but will reward cellaring. 14.5% alc.
95 points

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Howard Park Global Sparkling Tasting

Held: 20 November 2025

In November 2025, Howard Park hosted a global sparkling wine tasting that went well beyond a simple comparison of great Champagne. Curated by Chief Winemaker Nick Bowen, the tasting was designed to explore how place, style, winemaking decisions and time shape the world’s finest sparkling wines.

Over the course of 2025, I was fortunate to taste many exceptional wines, both in formal settings and shared with friends around the dinning table. Looking back, the Howard Park Global Sparkling Tasting stands out as the most thoughtfully conceived and intellectually rewarding tasting of the year.

Rather than simply assembling famous bottles, the tasting invited comparison and contrast across styles, countries, winemaking techniques and vintages. The result was a rare opportunity to understand not only which wines impressed most, but also why.

Tasting Structure

The tasting was divided into four brackets, each with a clear thematic focus:

• Contrast of Predominant Styles
• Multi-Vintage and Non-Vintage
• Vintage
• Prestige

Bracket One: Contrast of Predominant Styles

A study in how regional expression and winemaking philosophy influence the character of sparkling wine.

Roederer Estate – Brut – NV (USA). I really like this. It does not have the most generous nose, but the palate is precise and poised, with ripe fruit and pristine acidity acting as a flavour enhancer. It feels like a Pinot-dominant blend, with subtle autolytic characters adding depth and texture. A feature was the excellent length and mouthfeel.

Anderson Valley, California. 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir. 10–15% reserve wines aged in older oak barrels. No malolactic fermentation. 24 months on lees. 8g/L dosage. 95 pts.

Palmer & Co – Brut La Réserve (France). Here the winemaking takes a very different direction, with extended lees ageing (4 years) and higher reserve wine use (36%) from 2016–19. This wine did not really work for me. Perhaps the bottle?

Ruinart – Brut (France). A bit of a Goldilocks wine – just right. The finish is where this wine excels, with fine acidity and gentle minerality combining with supple autolytic characters to make for a great drink. Not challenging or idiosyncratic, and all the better for it. 93–94 pts.

DAOSA – Natural Reserve (Australia). A wine that really surprised me. First and foremost, it is a joy to drink. It opens with crunchy green apple, great acidity and an almost cider-like flavour profile. But this is also serious and very worthwhile, with depth, intensity and excellent length and persistence of flavours. The mouthfeel is a highlight. A different style that provides excellent drinking – and with a retail price around $50, an absolute bargain.

Piccadilly Valley, Adelaide Hills. Predominantly 2022 vintage. 32 months on lees. 6g/L dosage. Malolactic fermentation, barrel ageing and 15% reserve wine. 93 pts.

Deviation Road – Southcote Blanc de Noirs – 2022 (Australia). Restrained and taut, this is a fine wine. The flavours and aromas are muted up front but slowly evolve in the glass and in the mouth. A delicate wine that is very fine indeed. Gentle stonefruit characters emerge and the wine builds power and intensity as it warms. Superb wine – the persistence of flavours is outstanding.

Adelaide Hills. 100% Pinot Noir. 36 months on lees. 4g/L dosage (extra brut). 95 pts.

Clover Hill – Noir en Bois – NV (Australia). Broader and lacking the focus of the previous wine, with more power but not quite the same finesse and life. That said, this is being quite harsh, as it is a very good wine in its own right, with apple-like acidity that would be best enjoyed with food. Vinified and aged in oak, it gets better as it warms, with lots of savoury, umami characters building.

Pipers River, Tasmania. 75% Pinot Noir, 19% Chardonnay, 6% Pinot Meunier. 15 months on lees. 3.9g/L dosage. A small portion aged in older oak. 92 pts.

Bracket Two: Multi-Vintage and Non-Vintage

Winston Estate – Blanc de Blancs – NV (England). A great start to the bracket. A fine, restrained, elegant wine with gentle fruit notes to the fore on the nose. The palate is taut, but in no way austere – rather, it presents as focused and elegant. Certainly a great aperitif style and a lovely drink in general.

West Sussex. 100% Chardonnay. 3–4 years on lees. 9g/L dosage. Approximately a quarter of the wine is made up of reserve wines dating back to 2009. 94 pts.

Baron B – Heritage E004 – NV (Argentina). Another fine, elegant wine, but here there is a touch more toast and complexity, suggesting the inclusion of a significant amount of reserve wines. This does not make it better per se, but it certainly is more impactful. It is also, however, a tad broader and lacks the focus of the Winston Estate. There are lovely lemony tones, and as it warms up, this gets so much better.

Uco Valley, Mendoza. Multi-vintage blend of 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019. A minimum of three years on lees. Extra brut (dosage less than 5g/L). 92 pts.

Ca’del Bosco – Cuvée Prestige Edizione 47 (Italy). An excellent wine. Here there is more richness and autolytic character, perhaps as a result of more reserve material or time on cork. Yet there is refreshing acidity that provides focus and drive on the palate. There is a degree of fleshiness to the stonefruit characters which adds to the appeal – a lovely wine where gentle reductive notes add impact. Phenolics are balanced by the residual sugar.

Franciacorta, Lombardy. Predominantly Chardonnay (75%). Base wine predominantly 2022, with 18% from 2021 and the remainder from 2020. Dosage a low 2.5g/L, perfectly judged, allowing the purity of fruit to shine through. 95 pts.

Colmant – Brut Reserve – NV (South Africa). A superb wine and my pick of the bracket. Here, texture, flavours and acidity combine in a way that amplifies the goodness. Yes, it is fine and elegant, but there is great depth and subtle power on show. And the mouthfeel is the best of the tasting so far, with the creamy notes lingering for an age. I was surprised that this was not popular with the expert panel, but I don’t care – I loved it.

Western Cape. 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. 30 months on lees. 6g/L dosage. 10% of the blend aged in oak, with 20% reserve material. 96 pts.

Arras – Brut Elite Rosé Cuvée 1801 (Australia). The palest coppery tinge to the colour is suggestive of rosé. Oh, but this is good. Whilst fairly neutral up front, there is a presence in the mouth that screams quality. The intrinsic power is a joy to behold, with brioche and autolytic characters on show, along with a saline tang that really adds to the package. A bigger, richer style that would easily accompany richer food. The chewy texture on the close is a treat.

Pinot-dominant blend. 100% malolactic fermentation. Predominantly 2018 vintage. Labelled as 48 months on lees, though given the wine’s age it has likely spent at least five years on lees. 95 pts.

Champagne Geoffrey – Rosé de Saignée, Cuméres – Premier Cru (France). The colour here is a touch confronting – a rather intense ruby red. And the aromas and flavours are robust to match. But it works. Red fruits to the fore, with good texture and mouthfeel. Not typical, but enjoyable. 92 pts.

100% Pinot Noir. 56 months on lees. 4g/L dosage. Made using the saignée method, with the fruit undergoing cold maceration for 72 hours prior to pressing.

Bracket Three: Vintage

Vilaura – Marlborough Blanc de Blancs 2020 (New Zealand). My first thought was: wow, there is a step up in power here. The intensity of the fruit and acidity is quite remarkable, delivering spine-tingling goodness with every sip. The acidity is intense, yet incredibly fine, allowing the fruit to shine while also contributing life and energy. Sparkling wine should be a mouthful of joy, and this fits the bill perfectly. There is a touch of ocean spray on the finish that adds to the package. This really highlighted the benefits of tasting blind – I, for one, thought this was a premium Champagne.

100% clone UCD6 Chardonnay. 36 months on lees. 2g/L dosage. A multi trophy-winning wine. 96 pts.

Chant d’Éole – Cuvée Reserve 2019 (Belgium). One of the wines of the tasting and the biggest surprise for me when it was unveiled. This was my first Belgian sparkling wine and it was quite stunning. The complex autolytic characters have been turned up here, with brioche, bread dough and nougat flooding the senses. Sitting behind this is very fine fruit and thrilling acidity, making for an impactful, intense, powerful, wonderful wine. A joy to drink and, given the intensity, a wine worthy of food.

Blanc de blancs with 2% Pinot Blanc included with the Chardonnay. 48 months on lees. 6g/L dosage. Established in 2010, the winery now has 490,000 vines planted across 54 hectares. 97 pts.

Frank Bonville – Pur Oger Blanc de Blancs 2018 (France). Typical of the house style, this is finer, more elegant and more restrained than the other wines in this bracket. At first glance it seems to lack the presence of wines like the Chant d’Éole, but that is a function of style rather than quality. All that is required is time – to allow the wine to relax and express itself fully. With air, the stonefruit characters build and the latent power becomes more palpable.

100% Chardonnay. 60 months on lees. 4.2g/L dosage. Malolactic fermentation. Interestingly, the wine was matured in cellar under natural cork, rather than the crown seal ubiquitous across the world for initial maturation prior to disgorgement. 94 pts.

Sugrue – South Downs – The Trouble With Dreams 2020 (England). The all-rounder of the tasting – a deliciously versatile wine that would work well on most occasions. Creamy, textured and rich, yet fine-boned and restrained, with the textural components and fruit equally important. It is on the finish where this shines, with the autolytic components building over time and balanced by zesty acidity. I love it.
60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir. 40 months on lees. 6g/L dosage. Half the blend matured in barrel, the rest in stainless steel. No malolactic fermentation. 96 pts.

Villiera – Monro Brut 2019 (South Africa). A touch unusual, with the reductive, sulphide characters making this a touch hard at first. But as it warms up it really builds, making for an interesting, idiosyncratic drink. There are others that I prefer, though.

60/40 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Part of the Chardonnay fermented in oak barrels, part in amphora. 91 pts.

Howard Park – Jeté Grand Vintage 2017 (Australia). Even more unusual. Powerful, impactful and intense, this is a sensory treat. It is so impressive – that power is harnessed by fine acidity and supple texture, making a great drink. But it is not for the faint-hearted, as this is an immensely powerful wine that needs to be sipped and contemplated rather than quaffed. The length and persistence of flavours are the equal of anything tasted to this point. Serve quite chilled.

Served from magnum. 58% Chardonnay with Pinot Noir. Fermented in a combination of older oak and stainless steel. 99 months on lees. 3g/L dosage. 96 pts.

Bracket Four: Prestige

Chapel Down – Kit’s Coty, Coeur de Cuvée 2016 (England). Wow. The way this builds is just outstanding. It is subtle and refined, yet there is great intensity and a nervous energy that is quite captivating. Pristine, precise, focused. Tremendous length and persistence of flavours. This can be enjoyed now as the perfect start to an evening, or cellared for five years and sipped and savoured.

100% Chardonnay. Kit’s Coty is the estate’s prestige vineyard, and Coeur de Cuvée refers to the use of only the best part of the first pressing. Base wine aged for seven months in older French oak. A minimum of five years on lees. 6g/L dosage. 96.5 pts.

Pierre Peters – Cuvée Spéciale, Les Montjolys Blanc de Blancs 2017 (France). Richer, but no less compelling than the Kit’s Coty. Opens with stonefruit, lemon and chalky minerality, all supported by supple, texturing phenolics. It was the way that the mid-palate transformed in the mouth that really set this apart. The fruit was quite muted on the first sip, but then, remarkably, it built depth and power starting at the back of the palate and flowing back to front across the tongue. An amazing wine that needs a few years. A wine of great presence – quite magnificent. A few years in the cellar will only help.

Single vineyard, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. 100% Chardonnay. Partial malolactic fermentation. 3.5g/L dosage. 97 pts.

Roederer Estate – L’Ermitage Brut 2019 (USA). When too much goodness is never enough. This is a spectacular wine that matches intensity with poise and balance. On the front palate it is richer and more intense than the Pierre Peters, but it is on the finish where this separates itself from the pack. A stunning wine of the highest quality.

52% Chardonnay blended with Pinot Noir. Fermentation in oak. Malolactic fermentation. 6g/L dosage. 97 pts.

Pirie – Late Disgorged 2011 (Australia). Incredibly intense – if anything, just a bit too much for me right now. This is powerful and impactful, the spectacular fruit balanced by minerality and acidity. There is so much of everything, but nothing is overblown. The yeasty autolytic characters are a feature but do not dominate. The citrus and peach characters from the fruit are intense and powerful. A great wine on the world stage. And the fact that this wine is available for $145 from the winery makes it an absolute bargain.

10 years on lees. 20% of the base wine fermented in old French oak. 98 pts.

Enrico Serafino – Zero 140, Alta Langa DOCG Riserva 2011 (Italy). Compared to the Pirie, this brings everything down a notch, trading overt power for a touch more subtlety. But only a touch – this is a powerhouse of a wine in its own right. It just seems to lack the late-palate intensity I was hoping for. Zero dosage and it feels very dry as a result.

Gentle pressing yielded just 45% free-run juice. 6 months on lees in stainless steel tanks, then almost 12 years on lees. 96 pts.

Bollinger – R.D. 2008 (France). Is this the perfect wine? I think so. Incredible power, incredible intensity, yet also incredible finesse and balance. A stunning wine and one of the great Champagnes I have had the privilege to drink – there was no way I could spit this one out.

Pinot Noir-dominant blend with Chardonnay (29%). Base wine aged in older oak barrels. 15 years on lees. 3g/L dosage. 99 pts.

Closing Reflections

This tasting reinforced that the world’s finest sparkling wines are no longer defined by geography alone. What united the most compelling bottles was precision, balance, thoughtful use of dosage, and the patience to allow time on lees to work its magic.

Howard Park’s achievement was not merely assembling great wines, but creating a framework that allowed them to speak clearly and comparatively. It was a tasting that rewarded attention, encouraged reflection, and left a lasting impression well beyond the final glass.

Reviewer: Barry Weinman

Barry Weinman |October 2025

For the team at Constellation, bringing high-quality wines from their USA stable of wineries must be a bit like trying to sell ice to Eskimos or taking coal to Newcastle, given the spectacular quality of Australian wines that are available.

And the task must be even more daunting when it comes to Western Australia, where we are rightly parochial about the local offering.

Compounding the challenge is the cost of American wines which, for anything of quality, starts at a price point higher than almost any of the local offering, particularly for Napa Valley Cabernet, where the price can run to many thousands of dollars per bottle.

But dismissing the wines outright would be a mistake as they do offer something different if you can afford the price of entry.

Jon Foster, the General Manager of Constellation in Australia, picked out a small cross-section of wines for the panel to try, and I was most impressed. The pick of the wines was Schrader’s RBS – Beckstoffer – To Kalon Cabernet from 2021. One of the most intense and powerful Cabernets that I have tried. But at $750 per bottle, it is beyond the reach of all but the most obsessive and well-funded collectors. And only eight six-packs made it to Australia.

But despite the $350 price tag, I am going to recommend (and buy a bottle of) the 2019 Mondavi – The Reserve To Kalon, such is the beauty and the way it acts as a counterpoint to anything made locally.

And while $160 is not cheap, the premium wines from Lingua Franca are very worthwhile offerings and worth trying if you get the chance.

REVIEWS

Lingua Franca Sisters Eola – Amity Hills Chardonnay 2021
This smells and tastes very expensive. The quality of the oak and the way it has been handled is quite spectacular. The white peach fruit is quite exquisite, the mouthfeel and texture, memorable. The length of flavours and persistence is quite extraordinary. This is very different to Margaret River wines, as the fruit flavours are much more subdued than the local offering, but the presence is something else. The flagship wine of the range. 20 cases imported. 13.0% alc.
Drink: Now-2029 | $160.00

Lingua Franca Mimi’s Mind Pinot Noir 2021
Super pretty and perfumed and very fine and elegant. But the wine was a little cold when poured and was a touch closed on the nose. The minerality and seamless palate transition are a feature. But interestingly, the structure builds backwards, progressing from the back of the tongue, gradually blanketing the fruit in a shroud of fine tannins, acid and oak. Earthy, savoury notes build. Ultimately, the cherry and berry fruit build and make their presence felt. A sleeper.
95 points | $160.00

Mondavi The Reserve To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
Wow, just wow. Absolutely gorgeous fruit leaps out of the glass. Blueberry and blackcurrant and spectacularly ripe. The palate is luscious, powerful and supple, with amazing chocolate. The depth of this wine is breathtaking. The silky, seamless structure is quite amazing. 12 x 6 packs available. Focused. Precise. A striking wine. Great length. Plush, velvety. Great oak. 14.9% alc.
97-98 points | $350.00

Schrader – RBS – Beckstoffer – To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
Wow, wow, wow. This is so intense, so powerful and so much of everything. The fruit is ripe. Very ripe, with almost Christmas pudding-layered fruits building and building. And then there is a rush of tannins and, more importantly, acids that rip through the palate, making everything fresh. Having said that, when push comes to shove, the palate is balanced. A powerhouse wine that is at odds with what we make here, and more akin to Barossa Shiraz. 8 six packs imported.
96 points | $750.00

Barry Weinman | September 2025

Perched high on the cool, granite shoulders of the Porongurup Range, Castle Rock Estate has been quietly focusing on producing high-quality wine since Angelo and Wendy Diletti planted the first vines in 1983. The site—elevated, wind-kissed and east-facing—has proved perfect for Riesling, alongside increasingly distinguished Chardonnay and, importantly, Pinot Noir.

The “A&W” cuvées pay tribute to the founders.

At the centre of the story today is winemaker Rob Diletti, who returned home after formative stints in renowned Australian and international wineries to co-design the on-site winery in 2001 and take the reins of production. His approach—precision in the vineyard, sensitivity in the winery—has earned him national recognition, including Wine Companion’s Winemaker of the Year (2015), and cemented Castle Rock as a standard-bearer for Porongurup. Beyond the estate, Rob’s thoughtful craftsmanship has also lifted the region more broadly through contract work and mentorship.

Alongside Rob is winemaker Sam Palmer, whose on-the-ground ingenuity and calm execution have become integral to the estate’s recent momentum. First introduced to many as Castle Rock’s assistant winemaker, Sam now helps steer day-to-day winemaking and vineyard practice.

REVIEWS*

*Please note that the wines were not tasted blind, so the points are indicative.

Castle Rock Estate Riesling 2025
Another dry year, but not as hot as in 2024. Oh wow. This is just stunning. A spectacular wine that is full of life and personality. The floral fruit aromas and flavours are a highlight, with perfume/talc notes. Concentrated lime, with just the right acid balance to make this a great drink. But this is destined to cellar very well indeed.
95 points

Castle Rock Estate Skywalk Riesling 2024
This is the pressings of the estate Riesling fruit. Pristine, taut, elegant. Impactful fruit is more approachable than the Estate, making excellent early drinking. The aromatics are a highlight.
94 points

Castle Rock Estate A&W Riesling 2024
The best fruit for the vintage is used in the A&W range. This is a step up in concentration and depth of flavours. The acid balance is stunning and the intensity is impressive. Spends an extra four months on lees compared to the Estate, which has a very positive impact on the finish, demonstrating lovely mouthfeel and texture. The gentle fruit handling eliminates almost all influences of skin contact, resulting in the purest expression of Riesling. Delicate, yet immensely impactful and powerful at the same time. A stunning wine. The fruit is hand-picked, and receives a very gentle pressing of the whole bunches, resulting in a yield of only 400-450 litres per tonne.
96 points

Castle Rock Estate Diletti Riesling 2023
This is a much more savoury, textural wine, with a 100% barrel ferment in older oak. Treated more like a Chardonnay than a traditional Australian Riesling in the winery, with extended lees ageing. Still fresh and lively with the Castle Rock DNA, but there is much more in the mouthfeel and texture. A brilliant drink now, but also able to be cellared with confidence. At the end, the acid really cuts through conferring great energy and drive.
95 points

Castle Rock Estate Pinot Noir 2024
Pretty, perfumed berry fruit, supported by gentle savoury flavours and textures. The tannins, oak and acid play a supporting role, allowing the fruit to shine. 25% new oak, 12% whole bunch. Wines made in batches, and then brought together at blending.
94-95 points | $46

Castle Rock Estate A&W Pinot Noir 2024
More savoury structure here. The fruit is perfectly ripe, but tending more to dark cherry characters rather than the more strawberry-like fruit of the estate. A complete wine that makes for great drinking now or over the next 10 years. Silky, supple, great drinking. The pick of the pinots.
96 points | $60

Castle Rock Estate Diletti Pinot Noir 2024
This is a very different beast. Dense, savoury, earthy, structured. But supple and approachable at the same time. The whole bunch ferment adds structure. The whole bunch proportion (91%) is vinified separately, so that there is not extended juice contact with the juice. This is important to ensure that the tannins are supple, rather than stemmy.
95 points