On the Tasting Bench: June 2025.

Barry Weinman: 27th July 2025

Here is a round up of some of the better wines reviewed in the last month that did not make it into other tasting notes.

A highlight for me was the 3drops pinot. Brilliant drinking and good value.

And the panel was very impressed with the overall quality of the wines from Fermoy Estate. The Reserve label wines were the standout.

Reviewed

Flametree – Shiraz – 2023. There is more structure here, yet there are still layers of ripe fruit within this. I love the fact that this is immediately enjoyable, with the fruit and structural components presenting harmoniously. Whilst this will be a great drink on its own, the structure makes for an excellent pairing with lamb shanks or a ratatouille, where the tannins and acid will help cut through the richness of the food. 14% alc, 93pts.

Fermoy Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. On the first whiff, a most impressive wine. Seamless, fine, elegant, this is a masterpiece of winemaking, taking high quality fruit and massaging it into a complete wine. The ripe fruit is a feature. Polished, texturing tannins really add to the package. Classical cabernet and already excellent drinking with some time in a decanter. 14.0% – 94pts.

Fermoy Estate – Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2019. Whilst this showed well straight out of the bottle, it was more the texture and structure that impressed rather than the fruit per se. But over the next two days, the red and black fruits really started to shine, absorbing the oak and tannins into a seamless, harmonious package. The fruit is cooler in character, reflecting the vintage, but is perfectly ripe within this context. From Wilyabrup. 14.0% alc – 95+pts.

Fermoy Estate – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. A very fine wine, with taut acidity complementing the pristine stone fruit characters. There is a purity to the fruit that is most attractive, with the barrel and lees work really pared back, allowing the fruit to shine. This is a wine that could happily be drunk on its own or with the delicious whiting at Lamonts. 13.0% alc – 95pts.

Domaine Naturalist – Artus – Chardonnay – 2023. Here, the winemaking components have been turned up a notch, but fortunately, there is the fruit power and quality to carry this with aplomb. The long, savoury, almost saline finish rounds out a powerhouse chardonnay. Worth trying if you get the chance, as this is a very good wine, but some may find the style a little much. 13% alc – 94pts.

Rowe – Single Site – Chardonnay. 2024. Wow. This is a lovely start to the chardonnay tasting. Pristine, ripe peach fruit leads to fresh/invigorating acidity that drives the palate. Oak adds texture and complexity, and although a touch obvious right now, will settle back into the fruit with 6 – 12 months in bottle. Impressive fruit quality. Give it a couple of years for the acid to soften. Vanilla tones to the oak were appreciated as was the rich, gently creamy mouthfeel. From Karridale, Gingin Clone, 30% new oak. 13.0% alc – 94pts.

Ferngrove – The Stirlings – Ellen Peak – Chardonnay – 2023. This is very smart indeed. Here, there is a touch more astringency, with the nutty texture a key feature of the wine. Excellent fruit, the stone fruit characters are laden with supple minerality, with hints of curry leaf drifting in and out of focus. The texture is a highlight, balancing creamy characters with more textural, slightly astringent notes which add life and balance. The oak is super fine and perfectly paired with the fruit. This represents fine drinking regardless. …great fruit, great length. Single Vineyard 200 cases, whole bunch, 35% new oak. 12.5% alc – 94+pts – $65.00

Domaine Naturalist – Purus – Chardonnay – 2023. Super fine, super elegant, super restrained, super wine. This is a reserved, restrained rendition of chardonnay which, despite its reticence, is striking for the way the acidity and fruit meld into a seamless palate transition. Delicate? Yes, and delightful. Such a contrast to the Artus and, ultimately, my preference. 12.4% alc, 95pts – $65.

Castle Rock – Pinot Noir – 2024. This wine may be the entry-level pinot in the Castle Rock range, but it is also a cracking drink, combining very good fruit and polished winemaking. Red fruits (strawberry and cherry), supple tannins, silky oak and focused acidity combine to make this a very compelling package. Quite serious, the winemaking inputs really add. Spent ten months in French oak (26% new) and included 13% whole bunch in the ferment. From the Porongorups. 13.8% – 93pts – $46.

3drops – Pinot Noir – 2023. This is a cracking wine. The depth of flavours here is the standout feature, with the fruit unfolding in layers along the length of the palate. Seamless, supple and slurpable, the texture is quite superb, with the tannins and acid cosseting the fruit in a blanket of goodness. A wonderful wine with great purity of fruit that has an intense cherry-like core. Fruit comes from the Patterson Vineyard. The wine was made by Rob Diletti and spent 10 months in Oak (24% new). At $40, this is something of a bargain. Put some in your mouth and be happy. 14.0% – 95pts – $40.

Lenton Brae – Value meets style

Barry Weinman: 25^th July 2025.

With the first vineyard being planted in 1982, Lenton Brae has long been part of the Margaret River wine scene. Part of the interest for me related to the fact that founder Bruce Tomlinson did not stick to the script for Margaret River, with pinot blanc being one of the key varieties planted, along with a dedicated focus on making age-worthy sauvignon blanc-based wines.

In later years, the venture experienced some turbulent times, with ownership ultimately transitioning to the Jackson family in 2020.

Judging by recent tastings, Lenton Brae is back in fine form under the watch of Vanessa Carson (winemaker) and Russel Cocker (viticulturalist).

The premium wines (under the Wilyabrup label) are very fine indeed. The 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon is a stately, if somewhat reserved example of what Margaret River does best. This is a very fine and age-worthy wine that needs a decade to really start to shine. In contrast, the 2022 Wilyabrub Cabernet Sauvignon is already an excellent drink straight from the get-go. But it is also a wine that is clearly capable of extended aging and, at $80 ex-winery, seems like good value.

Reviewed.

Lenton Brae – Southside – Chardonnay – 2024. Lovely wine. Gentle toast, supple fruit, a touch of viscosity and texture all contribute to a compelling offering, with almond meal characters adding interest in the background. This is a fine, elegant chardonnay, and a beautiful drink. The length and persistence of flavours were a highlight. Whilst delicious now, this should also develop more weight with a few years in bottle. 13.0% alc – 94pts – $38.

Lenton Brae – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2024. Lifted, zesty and fresh. Tropical fruit abounds on both the nose and palate supported by gentle phenolics that add texture and a touch of grip on the finish to keep the fruit in balance. Excellent length and persistence, I would not be surprised if there was a touch of barrel ferment in the blend, as the bitter-almond phenolics add impact. The acidity has been really well handled, adding the final touches to a smart wine. Will be popular in the warmer months and represents good value. 73% semillon from 40y/o estate vines. 30% of the wine was fermented in new French oak and spent 2 months on lees. 13.0% alc – 92pts – $24.

Lenton Brae – Cabernet/Merlot – 2023. Wow. For a wine of this price, this has some real interest. There is an inky quality in the blue fruits, but the acidity and tannins act to keep everything in balance, However the tannins are not the fun police. They provide the structure to make this a very enjoyable wine that appears to have been made with the intention of providing early-drinking pleasure, and the winemakers have nailed it. The supple texture and cleansing acidity made this a joy to drink, but there is enough depth to carry some decent food. A bargain, and all the more remarkable given that a portion of this wine was likely to be aged in new French oak. 13.5% alc, 93pts – $28.

Rising Star: Shepherd’s Hut

Barry Weinman: 23^rd July 2025

The 2017 pinot was the wine that brought Shepherd’s hut to my attention. A fantastic effort (especially at the price) and a wine that is still drinking brilliantly today. If anything, the 2018 was even better and remains a go-to wine when I am looking for a mid-week glass wine.

Since these wines, Laura Wishart, the third generation vigneron at Shepherd’s Hut has worked closely with winemaker Rob Diletti to fine tune vineyard management and has introduced a proportion of whole-bunch fermentation to add texture to the wines, particularly, the premium Michael Mayo pinot.

And with the 2023 vintage, it is crystal clear that these efforts have come to fruition. Both the standard pinot and the Michael Mayo stood out in recent tastings, and represent excellent value at their respective price points.

The first impressions of the 2024s are very positive indeed. At this early stage, the standard pinot is better drinking, but a year or two should see the Michael Mayo blossom.

As a side note, the 2023 shiraz is spectacular drinking. This is by far the most delicious red wine the panel has tried in recent months, when it comes to early drinking pleasure.

Reviewed

Shepherd’s Hut – Shiraz – 2023. This is super vibrant and fresh, and bursting with succulent red and black fruits. I can’t get over just how gob-smackingly delicious this is right from the get go. Raspberry, fragrant plum and hints of floral notes. Underneath this, there are subtle earthy notes, with flashes of liquorice and spice, and a light dusting of tannins and acid to keep the palate in balance. Whilst this is all about the immediate drinking pleasure today, a few years in the cellar will see this gain greater depth. 13.8% alc – 94pts – $30.

Shepherd’s Hut – Michael Mayo – Pinot Noir – 2024. I love the nose for its seductive allure. Plush, ripe strawberry tinged fruit jumps from the glass. It took a bit of air before this really came to life, with dark cherry fruit, textural tannins and refreshing acidity all combining into a rather splendid drink. At this early stage, this is not a showy wine, rather, it is something to be sipped and savoured, whilst contemplating life’s great mysteries (such as whether to have beef cheeks or bolognaise for dinner accompanied by this fine wine). 13.2% alc, 95pts – $55.

Shepherd’s Hut – Pinot Noir – 2024. Straight out of the bottle, this was a touch subdued, (it is very youthful), but as it sat in the glass, the sweetly perfumed fruit came right into focus, supported by a backbone of fine tannins and well-judged acidity. The fruit lingered for some time on the palate, adding to the appeal. The other judges put this in gold medal territory, being impressed by the fruit quality and supple winemaking. Drink now – 2030. 13.3% alc, 93pts $37.

Shepherd’s Hut – Michael Mayo – Pinot Noir – 2023. This is a wine that focuses on ripe, high-quality fruit. Cherry and strawberry come to mind, supported by subtle oak and the finest of tannins. Almost delicate in complexion, this is a charming, high-quality wine which is immensely enjoyable, with excellent length and persistence on the close. 13.1% alc – 95pts.

Faber Vineyard – 2025 Benchmark Tasting

Barry Weinman: 20th July 2025

John Griffiths, Faber’s larger than life winemaker/proprietor hosts what must surely be some of the most enjoyable and best value events held locally each year.

Of all the events, the Benchmark Tasting is the one that lovers of Australian shiraz should put into their calendar.

This is an opportunity to taste twelve high quality shiraz (blinded to the order they are served in) from a cross section of Australian wine regions, complemented by a delicious and substantial four course meal, all washed down with some gems from the Faber cellar.

The highlight for me, however, is the opportunity to compare and contrast a variety of different styles of shiraz which, this year, included eleven distinct regions (the Barossa was the only region with two wines). All wines were from the 2022 vintage.

What stood out for me, was the consistently high quality of the wines, regardless of style. Whilst the cooler region wines such as Swinney and Yarra Yering were a whisker ahead for me, the consensus from the audience was that the warmer region wines were the ones that were most appreciated, with Faber, Standish and Torbreck topping the votes at the end of the day.

And in a very strong line-up it was great to see that the Faber Reserve Shiraz 2022 was the equal crowd favourite!

A special note should be made on Griffith’s passion and bravery to hold this event. It must be nerve-racking to sit and wait whilst people compare and contrast the wines, and pass judgement.

Fortunately, Faber wines are very good indeed. 😊

The line up (in order tasted).

Forest Hill – Block 9 – Shiraz – 2022. This was the first wine of the tasting, and a great way to start. Lovely ripe fruit is pristine, perfumed and fragrant. Spice, mouthfeel and gently chewy texture add to the package on a palate that has truly amazing length. But it is oh so closed and tight right now. Yet this remains silky for the entire length of the very long palate, with the flavours lingering for some time. This is very age-worthy, with extraordinarily fine tannins and oak. 95-96pts. A bargain at $70.

Thomas Kiss – “Kiss” – Shiraz – 2022. More structured and savoury. But still with a core of spectacularly ripe fruit. This is something of a chameleon wine. Whilst it is taut, restrained and fine, there is a core of powerful, dense fruit that runs the length of the palate. The finish has excellent length and persistence and is, for all intents and purposes, seamless. White pepper and minerality build on a finish that is beautifully textured. A wonderful wine which is still available for $80. 97pts.

Torbreck – The Gask – Shiraz – 2022. More in the chocolate spectrum, but with air, the ripe satsuma plum fruit really blossoms. With the first sip I thought” Oh wow, this is just spectacular!” The palate is flooded with supple, fleshy plum-like fruit supported by a frame of gossamer fine tannins and oak. Seamless, silky and absolutely brilliant drinking. But surely it will be even better in a decade. Spent 18 months in one year old oak. 15% alc – 96pts – $90.

By Farr – Shriaz – 2022. Much cooler, with souring plum/cherry fruit that takes on a raspberry hue with air. The palate is fleshy and juicy, with really fine tannins and oak. But it is the acidity that carries this wine along its focused palate journey. Not green, but so, so cool climate in structure. With air, this takes on some smoky, almost bacon fat notes, along with pepper and spice. This is a style that may polarise. 94pts – $110.

Giaconda – Shiraz – 2022. Wow. What a wine. Fragrant, pretty, ripe blueberry, succulent and juicy, yet with a degree of restraint and real gravitas on the finish. The seriousness comes from the way the acidity, tannins and oak all meld seamlessly with the fruit to provide a lattice of supports that serve to highlight the beauty of the wine, without impeding the flow of the fruit in any way. Great length and balance. the souring cherry acidity on the close is a real highlight. 13.8% alc – 97pts – $125.

Seppelt – St Peters – Shiraz – 2022. Another cracking wine, but here, the fruit is just a touch more restrained, with the structural components starring on the palate. This equates to an irresistible texture on a virtually seamless palate. Wonderful length and persistence of flavours and textures. Slightly cooler in character, there is more red berry fruit than plum here. So, so balanced and age-worthy. Amazing wine. 14.5% alc – 96pts – $80.

Swinney – Farvie – Shiraz – 2022. Smells somewhat cooler, with hints of mint and even a touch of eucalypt. This flows onto a palate that is lithe, supple and medium-bodied, but also structured, powerful and very, very fine. Superb, the sense of presence this has in the mouth is something to behold. Length is a feature, with supple savoury notes adding greatly. Oak is for all intents and purposes, invisible, but a key contributor to the wine’s structure. An iron fist in a velvet glove? Yes. A remarkable wine. 14 months in seasoned oak, partial whole-bunch. 13.5% alc – 98pts – $180.

Glaetzer – Amon Ra – Shiraz – 2022. This is a bit of beast straight up. Powerful fruit, firm tannins, complexity-building oak. Remarkably, the palate is virtually seamless, yet the fruit is completely blanketed by the structural components. Immensely age-worthy, this is a traditional style of great merit. But it needs time and patience to show its best. And will score higher points when it does. 16 months in 100% new oak (95% French hogshead). Vine age ranges from 50 – 130 years old. 15% alc – 95+pts – $100.

Wendouree – Shiraz – 2022. This is an interesting wine as here, the peppery minerality is the key feature up front. The ripe fruit is there, but it is sitting sleepily in the corner, while the very fine oak, tannins and acidity dance on the palate. As this sits in the glass, the fruit starts to open up and give clues to its potential. The finish is seamless and silky, in a very structured way. Going back to this over time, it was clearly even better than I first thought: the balance between the fruit, winemaking and acid is truly superb. One of my favourite wines of the tasting. 96-97pts – $85.

Faber – Reserve – Shiraz – 2022. There is more plum here, and lashings of creamy oak which has a seductive vanillin character. The fruit is ripe, super ripe, befitting a prestige shiraz from the Swan Valley, with the acidity being the hero here, keeping the fruit fresh and adding drive to the finish. The palate is very long with great persistence, and the fruit remains focused throughout the palate transition. After 20 minutes in the glass, this really started to shine and was clearly the audience’s pick for the day. A classic, warm region shiraz, this spent 22 months in new oak hogsheads prior to bottling. 95pts – $100 (a bargain at $80 for club members via the website).

Yarra Yering – No 2 – Shiraz – 2022. Everything is taken down a notch here, and all the better for it. The lighter toned, more structured fruit has been perfectly matched to supple, texturing oak and feathery tannins. Ripe? Yes, but a cooler expression of ripe shiraz. The structural notes make their presence felt on the finish, gradually corralling in the fruit which, when combined with the acidity, confers an almost nervous energy to the wine. Exciting, exhilarating, enthralling, this is a stunning wine. In the glass, both blue and red fruit characters build and are quite floral and perfumed. Pepper? Yes, but this is more about minerality than spice. 96% shiraz, with a splash of marsanne, mataro and viognier. Aged in French oak barriques for 15 months (25% new). 13.5% alc – 97 – 98pts – $135.

Standish – The Standish – 2022. This is a very big wine, and the crowd loved it. Dense, viscous, chocolate, coffee, menthol and a supple resinous note. There are layers upon layers of fruit cascading across the palate. With so much intensity, this is the essence of ripe shiraz. Incredible length and depth, every fruit character you want in a warm region shiraz. For fans of big shiraz, this is as good it gets. The oak a feature, but is perfectly matched to the fruit. The tannins are impactful and structuring. The wine does come with a caveat however: for me, I can’t think when I would ever drink this. It is just too much for me. 96pts.

Footnote: For a different take on the tasting, you can read Alan Wilkerson’s excellent review here.

New Release – June 2025

Barry Weinman: 22^nd June 2025
In a line up of predominantly very high-quality chardonnay, the Moss Wood Elsa sauvignon blanc was a real eye opener. A brilliant wine that shows the potential that can be achieved with this style in Margaret River. And great value!

And the panel were very pleased with the quality of sparkling wines that is being made in WA. In a line up of 10 wines, the Frazer Woods and Marri Wood Park both stood out.

Reviewed

Moss Wood – Ribbon Vale – Elsa – Sauvignon Blanc – 2024. Complex and serious, this is most impressive. The power of the fruit mirrors that of fine chardonnay, as does the barrel and lees work. The pristine lemony fruit is the main focus, but the texture and mouthfeel, along with the sheer depth of fruit makes this very special indeed. And it is all the better for the drying finish. 14.0% alc, 95pts.

Coldstream Hills – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. Fine and elegant and already so, so approachable. This is high quality, but it is a clearly different style to the WA wines. Lemon/citrus characters are the key feature of the high-quality fruit, and the taut acid will benefit from time in bottle to soften and allow the fruit to better express itself. Supple oak and lees work add to the package, adding depth and texture. A high-quality, tightly coiled wine that needs 5+ years to hit its straps. 13.0% alc – 95pts.

Marri Wood Park – Sparkling – Chenin Blanc – 2020. This is a very nice drink. It is rounder and more approachable than the somewhat leaner style wines that we often see, with decent acidity that provides balance, but does not become a defining feature at any point along the palate transition. Lemony fruit, with gentle autolytic notes leads on to a finish that, despite the dosage, feels relatively dry. User friendly and would suit food well. 93pts.

Frazer Woods – Sparkling – NV. This initially presents as quite subdued, but as it sits in the mouth, it builds layers of tasty, toasty characters that linger for some time, and the fruit feels quite serious. Well-judged dosage, fine, refreshing acidity and lees aged autolytics all contribute to the package. 93pts – $34.

Xanadu Premium Release – 2023 Chardonnays and 2022 Cabernets

Barry Weinman: 19^th June 2025

The release of the premium Xanadu wines is always eagerly anticipated by the panel and the current batch did not disappoint.

It is fascinating how different the wines are, even though they are only separated by a few km. The Wallcliffe wines feel markedly cooler in character to those from Wilyabrup
In 2023, I have put the Stevens Road ahead by a whisker for the chardonnays, but the Reserve is the wine most likely to win you new friends. It is such an approachable and friendly wine.

With the cabernets, it was hard to separate them on absolute quality, but stylistically, they are very different.

Reviewed

Xanadu – Stephens Road – Chardonnay – 2023. Talk about impact! As I brought the glass to my nose with this wine, the powerful, peachlike fruit leapt from the glass. But it was not just primary fruit, it was the panoply of aromas (from flint and minerals to struck match) that amplified the impact. Yet the wine remained tightly focused at all times. In the mouth, the fruit sits more in the grapefruit spectrum and, whilst quite tight and restrained, has wonderful line and length. The length is, in fact, a standout feature.
The wine underwent barrel fermentation, however malolactic fermentation was prevented to preserve freshness of acidity. Drink now with seared scallops or give it 5 years to fully unwind and show its ultimate potential. 13.0% alc, 96+pts.

Xanadu – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2023. This is more reserved and, if anything, more mainstream, and all the better for it. In fact, this is quite special. The ripe fruit is the focus and has seamless palate transition and great length. This is already so good right now. The finish is viscous, textured and supported by brilliant oak use. A better wine than the Stevens Road? In absolute terms, no: but it is a more accessible style that many will prefer.

The fruit for this wine is made with Gingin clone fruit from the Lagan vineyard, which is the oldest chardonnay vineyard on the property. It underwent 100% barrel fermentation with wild yeast and was aged in French oak (20% new). 13.0% alc – 96pts.

Xanadu – Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. This is a very good wine, in a very different style to others in the tasting. Here, the fruit is darker in profile and the structural notes have a greater impact. Yet this remains balanced and fine, with the structural components never getting in the way of the superb fruit. Impressive, and the length of flavours is a standout. The acids and tannins eventually shut down the fruit somewhat, suggesting that up to 20 years in the cellar will only see this wine improve. Includes a small proportion of malbec and pedit verdot. 14.0% alc – 96pts.

Xanadu – Stephens Road – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. It is fascinating how differently high-quality cabernet can present. This is another superb wine, but the flavours and textures are different to the Reserve in a very good way. Blackberry and blackcurrant feature, but here, the souring acid is more prominent as compared to the tannins, which suggests a cooler site. But the length and persistence of flavours and textures are equal to the best. 40% new oak was used during maturation. A lovely wine that, in this line up, was the one that would benefit the most from cellaring or from being served with fine food. Beef ribs come to mind… Fantastic wine! 14.0% alc – 96pts.

New Release Reds – June 2025

Barry Weinman: 11^th June 2025

The 2021 Tom Cullity is one of the finest wines from Margaret River that I have had the pleasure of tasting. And the 2023 Diana Madeline is a superstar.

But what had the panel talking was the 2022 Blackstone Paddock from Aldi. Sensational value.

It has been a while since the panel has reviewed any wines from Yalumba and the panel was uniformly in gold medal territory with the 2022 The Signature. There is a degree of velvety generosity that makes this a delightful wine to drink, even at this early stage.

Reviewed

Yalumba – The Signature – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – 2022. Delicious!. This is a riper, more accessible wine than the Margaret River cabernets, and a fantastic counterpoint to those cooler region wines. Mint? Yes, blackcurrant? Yes. This has all the trademarks of high-quality cabernet, but there is another layer to this wine, with plum, liquorice and gentle spices all adding to the package. Excellent length and persistence are a highlight, while the acidity keeping the whole package alive and fresh. Superb tannin management adds to the textural charm. Wonderful wine. 14.4% alc, 96pts.

Vasse Felix – Tom Cullity – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 2021. OMG, this has the most fantastic nose. Ripe blueberry and blackcurrant fruit positively leaps from the glass, supported by a frame of supple oak. The palate is, if anything, even more exciting, and a brilliant expression of super premium cabernet. A remarkable wine that is brilliant now, but will be even better with time in the cellar. My wine of the 2021 vintage from Margaret River and a superstar. 19% Malbec, 16 months in French oak barriques (68% new), 14.0% alc, 97+pts.

Cullen – Diana Madeline – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. Oh my, this is also spectacular, but presenting in a very different way. Here, the silky fruit is everything. Ripe, yet restrained, this has poise and grace. In the mouth, the cascade of fruit continues to excite, with the finest, most polished tannins providing an invisible lattice of support, yet contributing greatly to the mouthfeel and sense of power and gravitas. An exceptional wine. now to 20yrs +. Cassis. 13.5% alc, 96pts

Blackstone Paddock – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. OK, so lets get one thing clear. This was not as good as the Tom Cullity or Diana Madeline, but… for $20, it is a spectacular buy.
Darker fruit notes, firms structure and real depth to the fruit. If anything, this has echoes of Bordeaux to the way it sits in the mouth. There is plenty of power and firm tannins, suggesting that 5 – 10 years cellaring would be handsomely repaid. Get it while you can from Aldi. 14.5% alc, 95pts – $22.

Wolf Blass – Black Label – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – 2018. Given my preconceptions of this wine as a big, rich and powerful wine, it is remarkable restrained and polished. The fruit is silky and supple and has an almost medium-bodied feel to it. But there is depth and intensity sitting behind this, supported by supple oak that really adds to the silky mouthfeel. Ultimately, this is closed and just a baby, but it is a lovely wine all the same. 14.5% alc, 95pts.

Windance Estate Winery – Consistent Excellence

Barry Weinman – 8^th June 2025.

Windance Estate Winery was established by Drew and Rosemary Brent-White in 1998. Daughter Billie and her husband Tyke are now in control, with Tyke responsible for winemaking.

Over a few weeks, in various blind tastings, the panel reviewed a number of Windance wines. And what stood out for me in particular was the consistency and quality across the wines tasted.

The premium Glen Valley range is beautifully packaged and showed very well indeed. The Estate range is also very good and the value offering is compelling indeed.

Based on these tastings, I would highly recommend a visit if you are going that way any time soon.

Reviewed

Windance – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2024. The grassy, herbaceous nose and palate has more in common with Marlborough in NZ than what I am used to from Margaret River, but that is not a criticism, as the wine is very good. Mouth-coating flavours linger for a time, with hints of lime, guava and passionfruit all coming in and out of focus. Served cold on a warm afternoon, this will be a crowd pleaser. Add in some freshly shucked oysters for a tasting treat. Packed with flavour. A proportion of fruit underwent barrel fermentation (20%) which, combined with the lees work, has had a positive impact on mouthfeel/texture. 12.0% alc – 93pts – $24.

Windance – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2023. This is all about the silky mouthfeel. The fruit is ripe, if somewhat subdued at present, but the way it flows across the palate is most impressive indeed. I had visions of a stream flowing over a smooth stone, such is the way the tannins have been polished. Not the most intense, or powerful, but a wine that brings immediate pleasure and slips down just a little too easily…
The cabernet is complemented by merlot (14%) and malbec (12%). Aged for 10 months in thin-staved 225l (Bordeaux) barrels, 30% of which were new. 13.8% alc, 93pts – $30.

Windance – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. The first thing that grabbed my attention was the structure, rather than the fruit per se. The way the fruit and oak tannins have been polished is exemplary. But as this sits in the glass, the fruit quality slowly starts to express itself, with the flavours building in layers across the palate. Ultimately, the very fine (though prodigious) tannins close down the finish, but these never get aggressive or coarse. Rather, they act like a blanket, turning down the intensity of the fruit, without diminishing the intrinsic quality. This is a very fine wine, and extraordinary value.
Includes a small proportion of Malbec and Merlot. The wine was aged in French oak barriques for eleven months (35% new). 13.8% alc, 95pts – $40.

Windance – Glen Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. This is very good indeed. Fine, elegant and restrained, the fruit quality is quite superb. The structure is a highlight, allowing the silky fruit to be the star, but still acting as a strait-jacket, keeping everything tightly controlled. Needs time but is a remarkable wine. Spent 12 months in French oak barriques (60% new). 13.8% alc, 95pts – $60.

Reds for the Cooler Months

Barry Weinman: 31^st May 2025

After the intense focus on chardonnay for the last few months, it is time to look at some of the superb reds that have stood out with the panel.

One of the most noteworthy wines was Grosset’s Gaia cabernet. In amongst many of WA’s superstars, the 2023 vintage was a standout. Yes, it is a subtly different expression compared to its Margaret River counterparts, but it stands up well against the best. And the relative value is very good.

Speaking of value, Houghton’s 2020 Gladstone set the cat among the pigeons, coming out with the equal highest points at a recent tasting. $105 is still an expensive wine, but it is very worthwhile.

Reviewed

Houghton – Gladstones – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. This is quite spectacular. The depth and intrinsic power of this wine is evident from the very first whiff. Blueberry, black currant, cedar and subtle spice all meld into a compelling bouquet. Fine, graphite-like tannins are silky and, whilst providing an almost velvety texture and structure, are remarkable for the way they allow the fruit to remain the focus. Enormous length of flavours. 13.75% alc – 96 – 97pts – $105.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. The vibrant red-berry fruit is the key focus here from the first sniff to the very end of the palate. The oak and tannins are nestled within the fruit, but are for all intents and purposes, completely invisible. With air, the fruit builds depth, yet this remains superbly drinkable. and the fruit builds and builds, cascading in layers across the palate. 14.0% alc – 95+pts.

Sandalford – Prendiville Reserve – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2018. This is a step above many that we have tried of late, with real depth to the fruit, supported by quality oak and winemaking. At this stage, it is very young, with the fruit tightly bound by the fine, silky tannins, but time is all that is required for this to come around. The fact that the palate transition is near seamless is a strong indicator of the underlying quality and skills of the winemaker. Give it an hour in the decanter, or ten years in the cellar. With air, the fruit really builds. 14.5% 95pts.

Penfolds – Bin 389 – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – 2021. A cracking way to finish the tasting, with this wine having more depth and texture than a lot of the wines. But this is a very different style, with the density of fruit translating into an almost viscous mouthfeel. Plush? Yes, but with superb restraint provided by the texturing tannins and oak. Great length of flavours to close. That latter combining with the fruit to give a chocolatey character to the wine. Ultimately, the tannins close the fruit down, so time is required if this is to be enjoyed at its peak. Really hit its drinking window on day two. 18.5pts – $120.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2020. This replaces the power of the Gladstones with elegance and prettiness. At first glance, it could be considered a touch simple as a result, but that would be an unfair assessment. It is just that it does not stand out right now. But ten years should see this flesh out significantly. With air, the mid-palate fruit power really builds and transforms this into something quite special. 13.8% – 95pts – $110.

Katnook Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2021. This is a very good cabernet. It is not the most dense or overtly powerful wine, but it makes up for this with lithe, elegant fruit and palate structure. Medium bodied, and very approachable now. In fact, this would be an excellent by-the-glass wine for current consumption. But over the next two days, this really opened and showed enough structure to reward medium cellaring. Living in Western Australia, I do not review that many wines from Coonawarra, but clearly, I should make a greater effort. 14.5% alc – 94pts – $47.

Sandalford – 1840 – Shiraz – 2022. Serious fruit here. Pepper and spice to the fore, but this sits atop a bed of fleshy, dense, high quality fruit. Plum and liquorice gradually gives way to those spice characters, with a lick of new oak adding depth to the finish. This is a fine wine that is great drinking now, but would benefit from 5 – 10 years. From the Swan Valley. 93pts – $50.

Cullen – Red Moon – Blend – 2024. Nice fruit, and very well made. This has balanced cleansing acidity in addition to pretty berry fruit. The acidity adds life and interest, but does detract from the overall package. Quite silky and fine, this is an excellent early drinking wine that has more depth and structure that many. A blend of malbec, grenache, mourvèdre, petit Verdot and merlot. 13.5% alc – 92pts – $35.
Sandalford – Rose – 2024. The palest of pink hues. The subtle berry fruit on both the nose and palate is attractive, but it is the textural components that define this wine and elevate it above the ordinary. The balance is excellent and the length and persistence of flavours commendable. And it is all the better for the drying finish. Refreshing summer drinking! 12.5% alc, 91pts.

Smallwater Estate – Shiraz – 2022. This is a bit of a sleeper. There is high-quality fruit here, but it is very shy and somewhat reserved right now. The very fine tannins are quite silky but do act like a straitjacket to the fruit. Tried again the next day and the fruit really opened up. Excellent fruit, slick winemaking results in an understated, but compelling wine. 15.0% – 93pts.

Grosset – Nereus – Shiraz/Nero d’Avola – 2023. I like this for its point of difference. There is a fine, savoury character that runs through this, making for a mouth-watering wine that is crying out for good food. Souring cherry fruit, exquisitely fine tannins, silky acidity are both appealing and also suggestive that short-term aging may bring out this wine’s best. May polarise, but I am a fan. 13.9% – 95pts – $55.

On The Tasting Bench – April 2025

Barry Weinman: 1st May 2025

With the plethora of local chenins and rieslings available to provide refreshing (and serious) drinking, New Zealand sauvignon blanc does not get much of a look in at home.
But the 2023 Te Muna Sauvignon Blanc from Craggy Range is a timely reminder of just how good these wines can be.

Elsewhere, I was very impressed with the Elantro pinot noir. Made by Sandro Mosel in the Mornington Peninsula, this is a winery to watch.

Reviewed.

Craggy Range – Te Muna – Sauvignon Blanc – 2023. This is a more serious expression of sauvignon blanc. There are subdued tropical fruit notes, but the textures and flavours speak equally to the skilled winemaking which has softened the exuberance of the grapes and added layers of complexity. Great with food (pan-fried whiting fillets), or for sipping and savouring on its own. 12.5% alc – 94pts.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – 2023. Fine, elegant and pure, with a core of ripe, peach-laden fruit popping in and out of focus on a very long palate. The texture is excellent and the length noteworthy. Great drinking and excellent value. 94pts.

Glaetzer-Dixon – Uberblanc – Riesling – 2023. Pretty, with musk and floral notes. Fine acidity is a highlight, adding verve and energy to the palate, without impeding the fruit in any way. Near seamless and with great balance, this is a fantastic drink now. A complete wine. 94pts.

Coward & Black – Lady Margo – Rose – 2024. This is a smart wine. It feels fairly dry, but has nice florals that waft up from the glass. There is decent length on a moreish palate. The back label talks of Turkish Delight and red berries, and this sums things up nicely. Warm day + Cold wine = happy consumer. 91pts.

Elantro Vineyard – Pinot Noir – 2023. This is quite beautiful. Superb fruit, fine structure, silky mouth feel. Depth and intensity. Swoon? You bet, as this is a quite remarkable wine. Concentration without any heaviness. Lithe, but with fruit weight sitting behind it. A brilliant drink. 14.0% alc – 95pts.

Serafino – Reserve – Grenache – 2023. Ripe, supple and delicious. There is structure here that makes this quite serious, but the fruit is the star. Cherry, plum and some candied notes all add. Excellent persistence of flavours elevates this further. A very good wine, but also really fun to drink! 14.2% alc – 94pts.

Sandalford – 1840 – Grenache – 2023. I like this for its point of difference. Ripe fruit has been massaged in the winery to add savoury, almost earthy undertones, without impacting on the flow of the succulent fruit. Really delicious and a great choice for current drinking with seriously good food. 14.5% – 93pts – $40.