Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Penfolds 2026 Portfolio Launch Part Five: The Luxury Reds: Bin 169 to Grange

Barry Weinman: Tasted 25th June 2026

Penfolds Grange, Bin 707 and Bin 169 represent three distinct expressions of Penfolds’ winemaking philosophy: Grange, the internationally acclaimed icon that redefined Australian fine wine, is predominantly Shiraz and the first experimental release was in 1951.

Bin 707 is a powerful and age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignon that mirrors Grange’s uncompromising approach, and the first vintage was in 1964.

In comparison, Bin 169 is a comparatively recent addition, starting in 2008 (following a special release in 1973) that showcases Coonawarra cabernet.

While differing in varietal composition and regional focus, all three wines share a common commitment to exceptional fruit, meticulous craftsmanship and the ability to evolve over decades in the cellar.

*This was not a blind wine tasting, and it was hosted by Peter Gago. As a result, points should be considered as indicative.

Reviewed

Penfolds – Bin 169 – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2024. OMG. This is quite stunning. So fine and elegant, yet with masses of intrinsic power. A superb wine. The way the (prolific) tannins and acid have been massaged into a supple, elegant package is quite remarkable, allowing the vibrant blueberry fruit to shine. The oak adds weight and depth but does not cloud the fruit in any way. A wonderful wine that will drink beautifully any time over the next 30 years. As the most important brand in the Treasury Wine Estates portfolio, Penfolds has the ability to access some of the best fruit from across the region that might otherwise be destined for another wine. 100% Coonawarra fruit aged in French oak hogsheads for 18 months (79% new). 14.5% alc | 97+pts | $300.00.

Penfolds – Bin 707 – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2024. Classic Bin 707 and a brilliant wine. Here, the fruit depth, power, texture and structure are taken to an even higher level. The aromas and flavours evolve and build as this sits in the glass, transitioning from blueberry, through plum and on to complex savoury notes, all supported by the very fine oak (new French barriques). The tannins are, as expected, significant, yet they never dominate the fruit. But they do serve to keep the fruit a little subdued on the palate. Yes, it is classic Cabernet, but even more so, it is classic Penfolds. Points are irrelevant. As good as this is today, experience tells us that this will be even better with age and is sure to live longer than me.

Penfolds has the ability to use the best fruit from anywhere in the country for Bin 707, but in 2024 the fruit was all from South Australia (Coonawarra, Barossa, Padthaway). 14.5% alc | 98pts* | $800.00.

Penfolds – Grange – Shiraz – 2022. This is just remarkable. Intensity, power, density, depth, this has everything you could possibly hope for in a wine. This really is one of the world’s great wines. The fruit takes on a darker hue, being almost impregnable at this early stage, hinting at its potential, but pinpointing the fruit characters proved impossible, such is the density. Yet this remains silky, supple and utterly delicious. This has ultimate length of flavours and the silky texture in no way impedes the flow. Stunning! Just magnificent! Don’t get me wrong, there are tannins and acid to make this a 50-year cellaring potential, but it is amazing wine already. 100pts? Why not.

The fruit for this wine was sourced from the Barossa (87%) along with a splash of McLaren Vale and Coonawarra. As expected, the wine was matured in new American oak for 18 months and, in 2022 includes 3% cabernet sauvignon. 14.5% alc | 99pts* | $1000.00.

Penfolds 2026 Portfolio Launch Part Four: The Californian Adventure

Barry Weinman: Tasted 25th June 2026

Penfolds’ expansion into California represents one of the boldest international projects undertaken by an Australian wine company. Rather than simply producing Californian wines, Penfolds has sought to express its distinctive House Style through Californian vineyards, drawing on relationships and vineyard holdings developed over several decades. The resulting collection—featuring wines such as Bin 704, Bin 600, Bin 149 and Quantum—combines Californian fruit with Penfolds’ centuries of winemaking experience. While initially met with curiosity, the Californian program has matured into a serious and credible extension of the Penfolds portfolio, reinforcing the winery’s long-held belief that great wine should be defined by quality and style rather than constrained by geography.

An interesting aspect of Penfolds’ Californian journey is that it does not operate in isolation. Through its parent company, Treasury Wine Estates (TWE), Penfolds sits alongside some of California’s most historic and prestigious wineries, including Beringer, Beaulieu Vineyard (BV), Stags’ Leap Winery, Etude, Frank Family Vineyards and, more recently, DAOU.

That said, since 1998, Penfolds has planted 210 acres of vines on their Camatta Hills Estate in Paso Robles which was formerly Creston “600” Ranch, with cuttings from both Magill Estate and the Kalimna vineyard being used in the planting. The Bin 600 draws its name from this estate.
Perhaps the most significant benefit for wine lovers is that the relationship gives Penfolds unparalleled access to premium Californian fruit and winemaking resources. The result has been the emergence of wines such as Bin 704, Bin 149 and Quantum: wines that marry the structure, generosity and pedigree of Napa Valley with the unmistakable DNA of Penfolds.

*This was not a blind wine tasting, and it was hosted by Peter Gago. As a result, points should be considered as indicative.

Reviewed

Penfolds – Bin 600 – Cabernet/Shiraz – 2023. This is very structural. The fruit quality is outstanding, but this has been wound right back compared to the Australian wines. But this is no criticism. The mouthfeel and presence of the wine have quality stamped all over it. This is remarkable for its great drinkability. If you look closely, you can see the cabernet and shiraz fruit characters coming though. A lovely wine. 73% Cabernet. 16 months in American oak barriques, 45% new. 14.5% alc | 95pts | $90.00.

Penfolds – Bin 704 – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. Wow. This is very good. But in comparison to the 600, the structural components take on a much greater role and will also support cellar aging. Underneath the structural components, the ripe blueberry-infused fruit slowly builds and takes on a distinct character in the Penfolds line-up. A wonderful wine, but again, this is a wine for the long haul. If you can stash a bottle or two away for 20+ years, you will be amply rewarded.

Bin 704 is the inverse of Bin 407 and reflects that it sits at the same level in the USA range as the 407 does in the Australian range. The fruit is 100% Napa and draws on the parent company’s vineyard resources, supplemented by grower fruit. The wine spent 16 months in French oak barriques, 45% new. 14.5% alc | 96pts* | $125.00.

Penfolds – Bin 149 – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. The fruit here is quite extraordinary, as is the very fine, texturing tannins. Brilliant. At this very early stage, these characters are under tension, with the tannins and fruit playing something of a tug-of-war on the palate. Yet remarkably, this never gets aggressive or hard. It will be so good with food now, and even better with a decade in the cellar. 96pts seems a bit low.

Fruit for this wine is primarily drawn from Napa, with a proportion of South Australian cabernet included in the blend. The moniker 149 refers to the 14.9% of Australian wine that was added to the first release in 2018. Like 707 and Grange, this gets 100% new oak, in this case 78% French and 22% American oak barriques. 14.5% alc | 96+pts* | $275.00.

Penfolds 2026 Portfolio Launch Part Three: Super-premium Superstars – Bin 407 to Magill Estate

Barry Weinman: Tasted 25th June 2026

Peter Gago Preaching to the converted

For me, this is where the real excitement exists within the range (along with the brilliant 2024 Bin 128). These are wines that need no introduction to Australian wine collectors.

St Henri traces its origins to the 1957 commercial vintage (following development work in the mid-1950s by John Davoren) and stands as a deliberate counterpoint to Grange. Rather than relying on new oak, it is matured in large, seasoned vats, allowing the fruit to take centre stage.

Bin 389’s first vintage was released in 1960. Created by the legendary Max Schubert, it blended Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz and famously utilised barrels that had previously held Grange, earning it the affectionate nickname “Baby Grange.

Magill Estate Shiraz first appeared with the 1983 vintage, produced exclusively from the historic vineyard surrounding Penfolds’ original home at Magill on the outskirts of Adelaide.

Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon is a relatively recent addition to the Penfolds portfolio. The first vintage was 1990. It was created to provide a wine in the style of the iconic Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, but at a more accessible price and in larger volumes, as Penfolds gained access to greater quantities of high-quality Cabernet fruit.

RWT (Red Winemaking Trial) is the youngest of the four, launched with the 1997 vintage after extensive experimentation during the 1990s. Conceived as an alternative expression of top-tier Penfolds Shiraz, RWT is sourced entirely from the Barossa Valley and matured in French oak, contrasting with the multi-regional, American oak influence of Grange.

*This was not a blind wine tasting, and it was hosted by Peter Gago. As a result, points should be considered as indicative.

Reviewed

Penfolds – Bin 407 – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2024. This is outrageously good. Wonderful fruit and brilliant winemaking. The fruit is actually very shy on the palate at first, but you can sense just how good this will be with time in the cellar. So easy to drink today, but this is really a wine for the long haul. Hints of liquorice, spice and fresh herbs all add impact.

Bin 407 was a highlight for me as it often is and the value is compelling. Fruit for this wine is sourced from premium regions across South Australia and was matured in a blend of French and American oak (~20% new) for 12 months prior to bottling. 14.5% alc | 96+pts* | $130.00.

Penfolds – Bin 389 – Cabernet/Shiraz – 2024. Perfumed, alluring and just wonderful. The ripe fruit here is truly special, but it is the structure and acidity that helps stand this apart. Whilst very closed on release, the palate remained silky and supple, and immensely enjoyable. But this is really a wine for the future, not today (there are many other wines in the range to drink over the next few years). A very powerful wine!

With 53% cabernet, this is not quite a 50:50 blend. Fruit is sourced from premium South Australian regions and spent 13 months in American oak hogsheads (34% new). In 2024, Bin 389 has replaced Bin 28 as the highest volume wine in the Penfolds range, which is testament to their ability to access super premium fruit and the fact that they are not constrained to a single vineyard or region. 14.5% alc | 96pts* | $120.00.

Penfolds – St Henri – 2023. St Henri is a personal favourite of mine, and in 2023, this is another fine wine. As distinct from wines like the Bin 150 where the tannins and oak play an important role, here, the acidity is the hero, adding energy and drive to the supple, if somewhat closed fruit. And how good is that fruit? Brilliant! There are both berry and plum-like tones, but there is so much more to this wine, with the savoury components adding depth and complexity. Like the 389, this is built for long-term cellaring, and the results will be spectacular.

Fruit comes from McLaren Vale (55%), Barossa (21%), Frankland River (11%) plus a splash of Port Lincoln and Robe. There is often also a splash of Cabernet included in the final blend. 14.5% alc | 96pts* | $135.00.

Penfolds 2024 Magill Estate Shiraz

Penfolds – Magill Estate – 2024. A classic vintage for Magill and the results are spectacular. The fruit is quite exceptional and the structure is superb. This is just extraordinary. Silky, supple, fragrant and elegant. Yet this is structured, and very age-worthy. The length and persistence of fruit is outstanding. A wonderful wine and my pick of all wines to date.

Unique within the Penfolds range, this is 100% estate fruit, made on site at Magill Estate. Due to a vineyard restoration project, volumes in recent years are down 50% compared to longer-term averages. The impact of the new plantings will gradually start to be included over the next few years. The wine was aged for 18 months in new French (2/3) and second-use American (1/3) oak hogsheads. 14.5% alc | 97pts* | $180.00.

Penfolds – RWT – 2024. The fruit quality here is at least the equal of the Magill, but here, the structural components serve to suppress the fruit right now. But with air, wow, does this look so so good. The subtle floral characters really come to the fore, and the balance becomes spot on. Underneath the fragrant fruit is a complex amalgam of spice, oak and nut chocolate notes. A beautiful wine, but one that really needs two decades to show its full potential. Or an hour or two in a decanter now. This is such a good drink that food is purely optional as an accompaniment.

From the Barossa, RWT spent 14 months in French oak hogsheads, 82% of which were new, with the remainder second use. Philosophically, this sits just behind Grange and 707 in the range and, given the relative pricing, may well be the best value Penfolds red wine with this release. 14.5% alc | 97pts* | $220.00.

Penfolds 2026 Portfolio Launch Part One: White Wines

Barry Weinman: Tasted 25th June 2026

Few wineries have shaped the story of Australian wine as profoundly as Penfolds. Since its foundation in 1844, Penfolds has been more than a producer of great wine; it has been a custodian of innovation and, through the enduring success of Grange, the winery that helped establish Australia’s reputation on the world fine wine stage.

For generations of collectors, Penfolds has provided the benchmarks against which Australian reds are measured, while its distinctive House Style—built on blending across regions, vineyards and vintages where appropriate—remains uniquely Australian in both philosophy and execution. In many respects, the history of modern Australian fine wine cannot be told without Penfolds at its centre.

While Penfolds is best known for its legendary reds, its white wine program deserves equal respect. The pursuit of a “White Grange” led to the creation of Yattarna, one of Australia’s great Chardonnays and a wine that reinforces that Australian whites can compete with the finest examples from anywhere in the world.

Today, Yattarna, Reserve Bin A and Bin 311 form a remarkably cohesive portfolio, showcasing Penfolds’ ability to source fruit from the country’s best cool-climate regions, including Tasmania, Adelaide Hills and Tumbarumba; and the range mirrors, in philosophy, the red wine program, with winemaking led by Kym Schroeter.

Bin 311 is to Yattarna as Bin 389 is to Grange. Bin 389 has long been considered the “baby Grange” as it shares the same winemaking philosophy and indeed, fruit that is destined for Grange may be relegated to 389 if it does not quite make the grade (it does not fit style-wise with St Henri or RWT).
And so it is with Bin 311. A wine that shares its DNA with Yattarna and also benefits from fruit that would have otherwise gone to Yattarna. Whereas the Reserve Bin A Chardonnay is made specifically from Adelaide Hills fruit and is made in a different style.

*This was not a blind wine tasting, and it was hosted by Peter Gago. As a result, points should be considered as indicative.

Reviewed

Penfolds – Bin 311 – 2025. This is a very fine wine. Aromas of grapefruit and lime get the ball rolling. Whilst this presents as taut and elegant, with a distinct flinty minerality, there is a core of ripe stone fruit running the length and breadth of the palate. Supple, elegant and brilliant drinking, in 2025 Bin 311 is much more approachable than some previous releases. This is, in part, attributed to the fact that the winemakers have included new oak (23%) for the first time. Whilst it is age worthy, it is so enjoyable young. Fruit is sourced from Adelaide Hills, Tasmania and Tumbarumba. 13% alc | 94–95pts* | $55.00.

Penfolds Reserve Bin 25A

Penfolds – Reserve Bin A – 2025. This is so, so good. The fruit is superb, but it is the texture/mouthfeel/length of flavours that is an absolute standout. Compared to the Bin 311, here the citrus characters are much more muted, with the peach-like fruit the star, supported by complexity-building nuttiness (more almond meal than cashew from my perspective). With air, and as it warmed, this gets even better, the power and complexity really starting to build. For me, the value proposition with this wine is compelling.

Unlike Yattarna and Bin 311, Reserve Bin A is a single-region wine, with the fruit coming from the Adelaide Hills. Barrel fermented and matured for 8 months in 225-litre French oak barriques (~60% new), some barrels were allowed to go through wild primary ferment, and the wine underwent 100% malolactic fermentation. 12.5% alc | 96pts* | $125.00.

Penfolds 2024 Yattarna

Penfolds – Yattarna – 2024. There is a sense of power and gravitas that is on another level with this wine, and the completeness of the wine made descriptors seem superfluous at the time. For me, the seamless, creamy, supple, textured palate was the highlight, making for a truly sensational wine that compares to any Chardonnay on the world stage. After sitting in the glass for 90 minutes, the power of this wine really started to build. It does not taste like a white Burgundy, nor should it. Rather, it sits proudly as one of the world’s great Chardonnays in its own right.

Fruit sourced from Tumbarumba, Adelaide Hills and Tasmania. Barrel fermented and matured in French oak barriques, 56% new, for 8 months. 12.5% alc | 97pts* | $220.00.

Penfolds 2026 Portfolio Launch Part Two: Best of the Bin Reds

Barry Weinman: Tasted 25th June 2026: The Heart of the Penfolds Collection

Whilst Grange may be Australia’s most celebrated wine, many people, myself included, built our cellars around wines like Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz and Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz (as well as 389, which will be covered in a separate article). These are wines that have quietly carried the Penfolds House Style across the decades, providing remarkable consistency while introducing drinkers to two very different expressions of Australian Shiraz.

The first vintage of Bin 28 was in 1959 and it represents a rich, generous and unmistakably warm-climate Shiraz. Bin 128 (first vintage 1962), by contrast, offers a more restrained and finely structured interpretation, drawing on the distinctive Terra Rossa soils of Coonawarra. It is also differentiated by its use of French rather than the more typical American oak used by Penfolds.

These wines represent more than six decades of Penfolds winemaking history and remain touchstones for collectors seeking authenticity, value and cellarability within the broader Penfolds family.
In addition, the modern Penfolds Collection has expanded well beyond these traditional foundations.

Wines such as Bin 138, drawing inspiration from the great GSM blends of the Barossa, and the increasingly important Grenache and Pinot Noir programs demonstrate how Penfolds continues to evolve while remaining true to its heritage. These newer releases are not replacements for the classic Bin wines but rather extensions of the same philosophy, creating wines that are unmistakably Penfolds.

The result is a collection that honours its past while embracing the changing tastes and opportunities of contemporary Australian wine.

*This was not a blind wine tasting, and it was hosted by Peter Gago. As a result, points should be considered as indicative.

Reviewed

Penfolds – Bin 23 – Pinot – 2025. Pretty, perfumed fruit, balanced by supple, textural tannins and French oak barrique maturation (22%). The vibrancy of the fruit has been preserved, resulting in a very fine expression of Pinot, rather than an overt Penfolds wine. A lovely wine that is drinking beautifully already. Whilst there is a move back to cork with most of the Bin wines, this wine will be released under screw cap to preserve the fragrant fruit.

Fruit was sourced from Tasmania (57%) & Yarra Valley and includes a variety of clones in the mix. Winemaking techniques included a small amount of whole-bunch ferment. 13% alc | 94pts* | $55.00.

Penfolds Bin 21 2024

Penfolds – Bin 21 Grenache – 2025. The sweet fruit here is an absolute treat, as is the way the structural components marry with the fruit. In the end, the tannins do close down the fruit on the finish, but they are an important part of the wine’s make-up. They will also be a real ally when it comes to pairing this wine with food, which is where it will be at its best. With air, this gets even better and is a highlight. A very strong Bin 21 and excellent value.

Fruit was sourced from Barossa (68%) and McLaren Vale, and spent 10 months in French oak hogsheads (28% new). As with the pinot, this will continue to be released under screw cap. 14% alc | 95pts* | $60.00.

Penfolds 2024 Bin 138

Penfolds – Bin 138 – Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro – 2024. This is a cracking wine that is already brilliant drinking. The savoury, chocolate/mocha notes really add to the package, bringing depth and complexity to the pristine fruit. And the high-quality fruit is the key ingredient here. Supple, balanced and delicious drinking already. With air, the structural components build, suggesting that this will cellar well, but it is so good now that early consumption is recommended.

Predominantly a mix of Grenache and Shiraz, with the addition of 6% Mataro. Matured in a mix of French and American oak. Importantly, no new oak is used with this wine. Sealed with natural cork. 14.5% alc | 95+pts* | $60.00.

Penfolds – Bin 128 – 2024. I love this wine. The density of the cooler climate shiraz elevates this to a different level to the reds that preceded it. This is remarkably supple and approachable, but it is clear that this is only hinting at its potential right now. The fruit remains the primary focus for the full length of the palate, but it is shrouded in a veil of tannins and oak (primarily seasoned French oak) that, whilst having a muting effect, are in no way aggressive or assertive. A highlight of the release. Sealed with natural cork. 14.5% alc | 96pts* | $75.00.

Penfolds – Bin 28 – 2024. The wonderfully ripe fruit is most attractive, as is the fine structural elements that support it. But this is quite closed at this early stage making it hard to get a handle on its absolute quality. That said, history tells us that 10 – 15 years in the bottle will see this start to blossom.
Fruit sourced from a variety of vineyards across South Australia and the wine is matured in primarily seasoned American oak hogsheads (9% new). Sealed with natural cork. 14.5% alc | 94pts* | $50.00.

Penfolds – Bin 150 – Marananga – Shiraz – 2024. This is all about the savoury structure right now. The fruit is taut, closed and shy, just hinting at its potential. Of all the wines to date, this is the most closed and shy. With air though, wow, does the fruit open up.
Made in a different style to Grange, using its own fruit sources from the Marananga sub-district of the Barossa. Aged in a combination of French and American hogsheads, with little in the way of new oak included. Sealed with natural cork. 14.5% alc | 95+pts* | $100.00.

May 2026 New Releases: Chardonnay

Barry Weinman – May 2026

In a very strong line-up of chardonnays, Cullen Wines’ 2025 Kevin John and Hardys’ 2023 Eileen Hardy stood out for both their absolute quality and their contrasting styles.

And it has been several years since any of the panel had encountered St Hallett’s Old Block Shiraz, with unanimous praise for the 2019. The depth of the old-vine fruit that goes into this wine is very impressive.

It should be noted that 2019 appears to be the current release, with the winery’s website listing older vintages for sale.

Battles — The Burnside — Chardonnay — 2025
A lovely start to the tasting. Ripe, yet restrained; textured and viscous, yet light and airy on the palate. This really is a very good wine. The length and persistence of flavour are a highlight. Sublime. I would like to see this over a few days, as it is seamless, but also quite closed. Pretty floral notes and minerality leave a lingering impression. 13.3% alc | 94pts | $90

Hardys — Eileen Hardy — Chardonnay — 2023
A different style, but a wine of great quality. Here, the fruit ripeness is a touch more overt, with pineapple and stone fruit aromas swirling around the glass. The palate is rich and carries obvious fruit weight, yet it remains lithe and fresh along the entire length of the palate. Despite the power, the palate transition remains seamless. The intensity here is really next level. An amazing wine. 13.5% alc | 96pts | $150

Cullen — Kevin John — Chardonnay — 2025
Here is a wine so subtle that it almost defies description. Yet it has great presence and viscosity that is next level for a wine this fine and elegant. But the true magic happened once it sat in the glass for 15 minutes. The fruit continued to build and build, making for a spectacular wine. Expensive? Yep. But worth it. 13.5% alc | 97pts

St Hallett — Old Block — Shiraz — 2019
Oh my, this is in a different league. There is so much more intensity to the fruit, and the quality of the winemaking inputs is exemplary. The way the tannins have been polished is quite extraordinary, allowing the fruit to take centre stage while still providing all the textural cues you could hope for in a Barossa shiraz. Coffee, chocolate and plum notes all come to mind, with a hint of forest-floor savouriness. Despite the obvious ripeness in the fruit, this remains remarkably elegant and refined. Lovely now or in 20 years. The sheer depth of this wine saw me elevate the points in the end. Whilst the recommended retail price is $160, this is being heavily discounted around the traps and represents good value. 14.5% alc | 96pts | $160

Battle of the Cabernets

Barry Weinman – May 2026

In any blind tasting, I would expect the likes of Moss Wood and Cullen Wines’ Diana Madeline to shine. And so they did in this tasting. The 2024 Diana Madeline is a contender for Cabernet of the Year, while the 2023 Moss Wood is one of the best I have had the privilege of tasting.

Whilst not quite in the same league, the Battles 2025 Cabernet, made by Lance Parkin, certainly set a cat amongst the pigeons. Here is a wine that sells for $40 from the winery and really delivers the goods.

Battles — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2025
Lovely perfumed aromas that just scream CABERNET. It is ripe, vibrant and packed full of blueberry fruit. The palate is silky and supple, but with an acid and tannin backbone that makes its presence felt, adding structure and depth without overwhelming the fruit. Oak is not a defining feature, rather it adds important texture. This is not the most powerful or intense cabernet we have seen, but it is a delightful drink now with grilled meats, or at any time over the next 10 years. Fruit comes from the Ellens Ridge Vineyard in Wilyabrup. 14.0% alc | 93.5pts | $40

Moss Wood — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2023
A fine, muscular example of cabernet, with the powerful blackcurrant fruit complemented by fine, though firm and structuring, tannins from both fruit and oak. The latter imparts a subtle cedary character that is most attractive. Despite the power and structure, this remains supple and approachable, which is quite an achievement. For me, this wine will be best beyond 2035, given its complexity, power and great length of flavour. 14.0% alc | 97pts | $160

Mount Mary — Quintet — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2023
This was slipped into the blind tasting as a yardstick for the WA wines and, from the outset, it was clear that this was far removed stylistically from Margaret River. It comes across as softer, more fleshy and very finely boned when compared to the more muscular Margaret River wines. The blueberry fruit is the driving factor up front, but then, as the wine lingers on the totally seamless palate, the textural components really start to build. Tannins, acidity and oak are all perfectly balanced, adding gravitas without impeding the fruit. So good now, but sure to age well. A wine that challenges the best producers from Bordeaux at a fraction of the price. A great wine. 13.5% alc | 96+pts | $250

Cullen — Diana Madeline — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2023
Wow, wow, WOW. What a wine. This is powerful, yet supple and so approachable. Not quite silky, but near seamless in the way the fruit flows across the palate. The structure is the secret sauce in this wine, giving life, energy and drive, allowing the fruit to ebb and flow across the finish without ever losing balance or focus. A superb wine on the world stage. 13.5% alc | 97pts

Cullen — Diana Madeline — Cabernet Sauvignon — 2024
This is the most perfect cabernet that I have tasted of late. It stylistically splits the wines in this tasting, carrying more power and structure than some, whilst retaining an approachability that others lack. The fruit is, of course, the star, but it is the way it has been handled in the winery that makes all the difference. The oak is firm and structuring, but adds no overt flavours. The tannins and acidity add depth and energy, but do not impede the fruit in any way. As great as this wine is now, it will be even better in 20 years. 97+pts

Winter Reds – June 2026

Winter Reds – June 2026

Barry Weinman – June 2026

There has been a remarkable evolution in Australian cabernet and shiraz over the last three decades. In general, the wines have become ever more polished and refined. There is still great fruit quality and intensity, but the way the tannins and acids are now polished in the winery makes the wines so much more approachable than wines of old.

With improved hygiene, refrigeration and winemaking in general, there is also much greater consistency at all price points.

This is great news for consumers, as we are spoilt for value and choice. This tasting highlighted this with some brilliant wines at a variety of price points.

Happy Days!

Reviewed

Evoi Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2023. I really like this a lot. The fruit is ripe, but in the more elegant, finer spectrum. There is remarkable depth and intensity, despite the more subtle approach. The palate is a lovely amalgam of blueberry, violet and supple, texturing tannins and oak. With a virtually seamless palate, this is brilliantly made. Delightful now, but better in ten years. 14.0% alc | 95pts | $42.00.

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2024. OK, so this is a contender for value wine of the year. Beautiful fruit and beautiful winemaking combined in a wine that can be picked up for around $30.00.
This is a superb-value wine. The way it balances depth and elegance is remarkable. Berry fruit is ripe and vibrant, but it is the way that it has been married into the oak that makes it quite remarkable. I could not imagine a better-drinking young cabernet, given the seamless nature of the palate. Yet medium-term cellaring will be rewarded with increased complexity. The wine was aged in French oak barriques for 14 months (30% new). 14.5% alc | 94–95pts | $33.00.

Evoi Wines – Malbec – 2020. Structured, powerful, intense and, in some ways, reminiscent of Bordeaux. But there is also ripe fruit that is most attractive. In fact, this is utterly delicious, in a profound sort of way. Something of a Goldilocks wine, as it is just right for current drinking, but also worthy of a decade in the cellar. The oak, fruit tannin and acid management are spot on. A super wine. 14.0% alc | 95pts | $42.00.

Singlefile – The Philip Adrian – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2022. Wow! What a wine. This has all the ripe, vibrant fruit that one would hope for, combined with a degree of power and gravitas, thanks to the texturing oak and finely polished tannins. A wine of clarity and focus. As good as it is today though, this will be so much better with 15–20 years in the cellar, which will allow the fruit to unfold and the secondary characters to add impact. However, if you choose to drink this now, you will not be disappointed. 100% Houghton clone cabernet sauvignon, the wine spent 14 months in French oak barriques (40% new). 14.4% alc | 96pts | $115.00.

Rowe – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2024. This may be my favourite wine of the tasting, given the way it manages to combine delicious approachability with refined structural components. It is not necessarily the best wine, or the most powerful or opulent. Rather, it sits in a lovely middle ground, balancing fine tannins and acidity with subtle berry fruit. 14.0% alc | 95pts | $60.00.

New Release Chardonnay – June 2026

New Release Chardonnay – June 2026

Despite the quality and success of their pinots, following the release of the 2025 vintage, I am convinced that chardonnay is the best wine that Picardy produces. Especially when value comes into the equation.

A New World chardonnay that tips its hat to Burgundy.

Not to be outdone, Singlefile has produced another superb wine with the 2025 Family Reserve Chardonnay. Even more remarkable is the quality of the more affordable Great Southern chardonnay. Delicious, uncomplicated drinking!

Reviewed

Picardy – Chardonnay – 2025. This is a sophisticated wine. Complex and with a degree of richness, yet still with admirable restraint. The length of flavours is outstanding. Stone fruit characters are the key theme running through the wine, with the winemaking influences presenting as a delicious creaminess that runs the length and breadth of the palate, thanks to the high-quality oak and supple lees work. But with air, complex almond and apricot kernel characters really build. A powerful wine that challenges preconceptions about just how good Pemberton chardonnay can be. Great now. Balanced, complex and with a degree of subtlety, this is a New World chardonnay tipping its hat to Burgundy. 13.0% alc | 95.5pts | $65.00.

Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2024. This is altogether more precise and focused, with the stone-fruit notes complemented by complexity-building nutty/mealy components. The pineapple-infused acidity is a core feature of the wine, adding great life and energy. It also serves to cut through the richness on the palate and will be a great asset when it comes to pairing this with food. Excellent length and persistence. A lovely wine now, but one that will be even better in five years. 13.0% alc | 95pts | $72.00.

Singlefile – Family Reserve – Chardonnay – 2025. Another cracking wine and this is, if anything, even finer and more elegant than the last. It has the same quality and intensity; however, here, the white nectarine characters are supported by subtle citrus notes. There is also a degree of minerality that comes through from the acidity. What really sets this apart is the way the fruit continues to build on the palate long after the wine has gone, with cascades of flavours flowing across the palate. The seamless finish rounds out what is a very special wine. But it will benefit from several years in the cellar, as this has been made in a tightly wound style.
The fruit was whole-bunch pressed into oak (one-third new, the remainder one year old) from four different coopers for fermentation and then aged for eight months, with some barrels undergoing malolactic fermentation. Weekly bâtonnage was carried out for the first five months. 13.4% alc | 96pts | $65.00.

Singlefile – Great Southern – Chardonnay – 2025. More obvious and straightforward, in a very good way. Here is a well-made, approachable chardonnay that has plenty of varietal characters, with subtle winemaking inputs adding texture and depth. The minerality on the palate is a defining feature and one that is a real addition. That this is not as dense or complex as the others here is not a bad thing at all. It makes for a versatile, approachable wine that is easy to enjoy in a variety of situations. Instantly appealing. The fruit for this wine was picked in three parcels over a two-week period and the wine was aged in Burgundian oak (25% new) for six months, with weekly lees stirring for the first four months. 13.7% alc | 94pts | $35.00.

Tenafeate Creek Wines – June 2026

Tenafeate Creek Wines

Barry Weinman – June 2026

Every now and then, the panel reviews a wine that defies expectations. Sometimes, this is a very well-renowned wine that fails to impress. And now and then, it is a wine that I am not familiar with that excels.

And rarely, a whole range of wines comes along that knocks my socks off. And so it was with Tenafeate Creek Wines.

When the samples arrived, I had no clue as to the quality, so I quietly slipped them into a few blind tastings over the last few weeks and, each time, the panel was highly impressed by the quality and stunned by the value on offer.

The pinot grigio set the scene with a highly aromatic wine that is delicious and versatile enough to accompany a variety of foods.

But it was the reds that really set the cat amongst the pigeons. The shiraz, cabernet and grenache were all superstars and, at $33/bottle ex-winery, they offer incredible value.

The winery and vineyards are located in the northern Adelaide Hills, in the One Tree Hill district, which borders the Barossa Valley and is only 35 minutes from Adelaide on the way to the Barossa.

The Tenafeate Creek story is a good one. Larry Costa started making wine as a hobby with shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese being made from One Tree Hill vineyards. Today, with Michael Costa at the helm, the focus remains on small-batch, hands-on winemaking, with the reds drawn from One Tree Hill vineyards. The name itself comes from the old Tenafeate Homestead, with “Tenafeate” said to be an adaptation of a Gaelic name meaning “The Whistling House”.

These wines are the value find of the year so far and I can’t recommend them highly enough.

Reviewed

Tenafeate Creek Wines – Pinot Grigio – 2026. Very vibrant and lifted aromatics that leap from the glass. I literally started smelling this when it was 30cm from my nose. Has a touch of colour that is typical of the grape. The palate is zesty and acid-driven, with gentle phenolics adding texture and mouthfeel. Despite the acidity, this remains balanced and highly enjoyable, with textural pear characters and tropical and passionfruit notes building. Served cool on a warm afternoon, this will be great drinking and could easily accompany lighter foods. 12.0% alc | 93pts | $33.00.

Tenafeate Creek Wines – One Tree Hill – Grenache – 2024. I love the vibrant colour of this wine, with its translucent, almost ethereal hue. Very pretty and floral, this has a lot in common with fine pinot noir. Both the nose and palate are packed full of irresistible cherry/plum fruit, with layers of minerality, chocolate, coffee and liquorice coming over the top. Very medium bodied, this is all about the fruit. There has been a minimalistic approach to the winemaking (old oak), which is perfectly in keeping with the fruit. Totally delicious, with one panellist declaring this the best grenache they have tasted this year. If you see this in a wine bar, grab a glass. You won’t be sorry. From a single 35-year-old vineyard in the northern part of the district. 14.5% alc | 95pts | $30.00.

Tenafeate Creek Wines – One Tree Hill – Mataro – 2024. Again, there is great colour here, but the fragrant, pretty fruit has been replaced with a more structured, tannic façade. But underneath, there is a vibrancy to the wine that is most attractive and it is delicious, savoury and gently spiced. Drink it now with a BBQed rib-eye steak or rich lamb shanks and be happy. This wine was given the same winemaking treatment as the grenache, and it is fascinating to compare the two wines side by side, to really get a handle on the varietal differences. 13.5% alc | 93pts | $30.00.

Tenafeate Creek Wines – One Tree Hill – Shiraz – 2023. The vibrancy of this wine in the glass is quite arresting and very beautiful. The first whiff suggests a wine of power and intensity. But there is also a purity to the fruit that is captivating. The palate, however, is where this really shines. There are layers of ripe plum fruit that cascade across a palate that is remarkably refined and near seamless for a wine of such richness. And the structure is a highlight. The key feature for me, however, is the restraint that this wine shows. It makes for an excellent drink today with an eggplant parmigiana, or a wine that will build depth and complexity with extended ageing. Basket pressed and aged in a combination of new and older large oak barrels. 2024 was a very late harvest and the winemaker is suggesting that this is destined to be one of the best vintages of the decade. A great find. 15.0% alc | 96pts | $35.00.

Tenafeate Creek Wines – One Tree Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2024. This is more closed and structured, with the fruit shrouded in a blanket of ever-so-fine tannins. But there is no denying the intrinsic quality on show. The fruit has impressive density, and the seamless palate transition is testament to the skills of the winemaker. But it needs time, lots of time, to show its best. A masterful expression of the sheer power that cabernet can attain. With air, the sweet fruit starts to shine, with densely packed violets coming to mind. Who knew that Adelaide Hills cabernet could be this good! 14.5% alc | 95.5pts | $35.00.